Check your toe link! - Page 8 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #141 of 173 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010, 03:22 PM
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The torque spec is soooooo important. You should pull the joint out a touch to be sure the stud is still in good shape... If it was that loose, there may be damage...

If you need a good aftermarket replacement, Kris at DRS can install our kit for you

Cheers,

Phil


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post #142 of 173 (permalink) Old 09-21-2010, 07:06 PM
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checked mine today. 2009 with 168 miles.

set the torque wrench to 44ftlbs

both sides turned just under a 1/4

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post #143 of 173 (permalink) Old 10-20-2010, 06:58 PM
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Misc. toe link related questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by TimMullen View Post
Hey, I just colored the diagram...

Actually, I agree, tighten the nut, not the bolt. However, if you can't get to the nut easily, it won't make that much of a difference. Still, you should attempt to tighten the nut if at all possible.

But I humbly accept the thwack.
I agree with everyone else, this thread is great. As a new 05 Elise owner, I am very interested in this topic. A few questions:

1) Do normal 05 elise's come with the cross brace tube?

2) I am confused if we are supposed to tighten the nut or the bolt side of the inner toe link? Is it just that the nut side isn't easily accessible on the Elise?

3) What size bolt/nut head is it?

4) What size (half inch?) torque wrenches do people recommend?

5) Since it sounds like ramps are needed (to keep weight on the tires), which ramps work best for oil changes (Rhino regular)?

Thanks in advance and sorry for all the questions.

Rich
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post #144 of 173 (permalink) Old 10-20-2010, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gleek View Post
I agree with everyone else, this thread is great. As a new 05 Elise owner, I am very interested in this topic. A few questions:

1) Do normal 05 elise's come with the cross brace tube?

2) I am confused if we are supposed to tighten the nut or the bolt side of the inner toe link? Is it just that the nut side isn't easily accessible on the Elise?

3) What size bolt/nut head is it?

4) What size (half inch?) torque wrenches do people recommend?

5) Since it sounds like ramps are needed (to keep weight on the tires), which ramps work best for oil changes (Rhino regular)?

Thanks in advance and sorry for all the questions.

Rich
1 no
2 nut. remove both the diffuser and undertray
3 I forget maybe 17 mm.
4 I use my half inch drive
5 Rhino REGULAR works great

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Last edited by jmiesse; 10-20-2010 at 08:04 PM.
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post #145 of 173 (permalink) Old 10-20-2010, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimMullen View Post
the pic of where the nut that needs to be checked

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post #146 of 173 (permalink) Old 10-20-2010, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmiesse View Post
the pic of where the nut that needs to be checked
This is helpful. Thanks. Is it necessary to get a wrench on the bolt side too when tightening? I've read conflicting answers.
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post #147 of 173 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 05:58 AM
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There's no bolt side... It's a stud that goes into a ball joint. Get a torque wrench of known good calibration and retorque the nut on the front side of the frame to proper spec. better to be slightly too tight than slightly too loose. The threads should be clean and dry (not lubricated) when tightening...

cheers,

Phil


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2011 Pearl White Evora, BOE Skunk Works 6 SPD 435WHP || 2014 Black Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP|| 2011 White Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP || 2006 CO Elise, Rev400, Steet Car

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post #148 of 173 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gleek View Post
This is helpful. Thanks. Is it necessary to get a wrench on the bolt side too when tightening? I've read conflicting answers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbophil View Post
There's no bolt side... It's a stud that goes into a ball joint...
Unless he's got a factory or aftermarket double-shear brace... then you might need a 17mm socket on the bolt on the rear of the toe link...

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post #149 of 173 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apk919 View Post
Unless he's got a factory or aftermarket double-shear brace... then you might need a 17mm socket on the bolt on the rear of the toe link...

LOL- You're right. I ASSumed he had the standard OE setup


Phil: NASA 2012 and 2014 TT1 Central Champion, 2005 GG Elige, Rev400, 485+whp REV X

2011 Pearl White Evora, BOE Skunk Works 6 SPD 435WHP || 2014 Black Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP|| 2011 White Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP || 2006 CO Elise, Rev400, Steet Car

____________________________________________

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post #150 of 173 (permalink) Old 10-23-2010, 05:28 PM
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I do have the stock toe link setup for now, but am planning on installing S111's RTV brace soon. Thanks for the help!
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post #151 of 173 (permalink) Old 01-04-2012, 09:15 AM
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I am new to owning an Elise, but during a recent oil change I noticed that they weren't quite straight. I took a picture so I could ask around. The car is currently in storage for the winter but in this condition is it serious enough to not drive it until I tighten them or will that be fine for some non-track driving until I get the sector 111 brace on it?


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post #152 of 173 (permalink) Old 01-04-2012, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theyoyomaster View Post
I am new to owning an Elise, but during a recent oil change I noticed that they weren't quite straight. I took a picture so I could ask around. The car is currently in storage for the winter but in this condition is it serious enough to not drive it until I tighten them or will that be fine for some non-track driving until I get the sector 111 brace on it?

their reason for existing, is to move around. what is important is that the two ends are 90deg. out of phase (twist) so that there is max. freedom for them to move around. you can grab them and twist them even... but they will just rotate as soon as you drive it.

you do not "need" a brace... i tracked my car plenty of times without it - but a brace is a good thing, and i do have one now. if you run slicks, you deff. want a brace. if you are tracking a lot, you should get a brace.

the torque IS important, and routine maintenance of it. if the loosen, they wear, if they wear, they fail.

"I really started paying attention to cars was when they came out with the Nissan Z, the first body. Then I seen the Cherokees, the old square ones, and I was like, “Wow, that’s cool.” Then I seen the Isuzu jeeps and I seen the Wranglers."
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post #153 of 173 (permalink) Old 03-21-2012, 03:26 PM
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I've read through this thread, as well as bits and pieces of others. One thing that isn't clear to me, is if the bolts/nuts whatever do come loose, other than the obvious problems that would occur to the link assy and bushing itself, wouldn't there be a major risk of damaging the frame? It seems to me a loose bolt wallering around in there would be bad news for the frame, or at least the hole. This of course assumes that the bolt doesn't come completely out. In that case, frame damage would likely be the least of your worries.

Yeah, first post. I've been lurking on and off for about three years. Call me whatever you want, but I'm still a wannabe. As of recently though, I'm now in the position to actually purchase a used Elise. As such, I'm looking through the Forum for things I need to watch out for.

Dave
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post #154 of 173 (permalink) Old 03-21-2012, 04:15 PM
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The toe link "bolt" runs through a sleeve, so it won't wallow much. However the bolt will stress fracture from being loose, causing the beloved failure.

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post #155 of 173 (permalink) Old 09-18-2013, 08:33 AM
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Checked toe links yesterday after purchasing ramps and low profile jack after driving home from my first track day a few weeks ago. Car didn't move after I got home from the track until yesterday.

nothing to report, the nuts were tight.

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post #156 of 173 (permalink) Old 01-11-2014, 03:58 PM
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Reviving this thread as I have a couple of questions...

1) my car has the early style track pack brace with the turn buckles. Do these turnbuckles need to be re-tightened at any point? Or is their sole purpose just to adjust the length of the brace to ensure the ends line up with the holes in the subframe?

2) I had a shop check the torque of the toe links a couple months ago. One was right at 60 nm and the other went about 1/4 turn. In future if I do this myself, if I were to put the torque wrench on there and find the nut turns some (say 1/2 or 1/4 turn), do I then need to undo the nut and re torque it from a loosened state?

OR can I simply set the torque wrench to 60Nm and attempt to tighten and if it does turn, do so until it's at the desired torque value and leave it at that?

(Only asking that as there were a few questions about whether you should undo the bolt first, it's just odd because in order to check if the torque setting is right in the first place, you have to do it up first!)

3) if I'm tracking the car recreationally with R comps or slicks, how often should I check the toe links (before and after every track day?) and what else needs to be checked? Do I need to check EVERY single fastener in the suspension system with a torque wrench before and after every track day? I am safety oriented but I'm not racing the car, just recreational track days and I don't have a hoist so checking ball joint torques for example can be difficult due to limited access.

Last edited by spiller; 01-11-2014 at 04:04 PM.
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post #157 of 173 (permalink) Old 01-12-2014, 04:33 AM
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Are Nordlocks an upgrade to a stock system? I have a NA Elise which I auto X and do a few track days each year. I run Toyo R1R tires. I am really wondering if for my use Nordlocks are enough and I don't need a brace.

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post #158 of 173 (permalink) Old 03-07-2014, 08:26 AM
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Hi all,
Long long thread - read and no quite sure which is best way to go if you find your rear inner toe link loose / damaged on a stock 05 elise you intend to track at times:
A) replace inner toe link only with stock (torque at "increased" torque and check frequently after of course),
B) replace inner toe link only with upgrade X (sector 111, BOE,...),
C) replace entire toe link assembly with upgrade Y...?

I would think A or B shall suffice but wanted to pick brains from anyone here having experience


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post #159 of 173 (permalink) Old 03-07-2014, 08:55 AM
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most of the brace kits come with new links and rod ends... just replace it all and re-set the alignment in the rear.

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post #160 of 173 (permalink) Old 03-07-2014, 11:58 AM
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Thanks fitfan


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