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Car is finally here in New York. Took for a fun test drive today little scary with current condition of the car, but hit 80mph few times through the industrial complex. Now that I now everything is work ok, Engine performances was amazing, Transmission shifted well (even with bent shifter) actually think the bend took out some of the slop.
Disassembly will start this week. I’ll try to post as many photos as I can for those that are interested. Also I’m sure I’ll refer to this site for how to help and up grade ideas while car is apart. Differently thinking of hinged rear clam and all aluminum radiator at top of list.
Just picked up the new chassis and door. Now I have 95% of the parts needed for rebuild. Will do a few things quickly on this chassis then it’s off to the paint shop to get sills painted. Can’t wait to start putting back together
Unbelievable! You have done more in your couple months of owning the car than I have in almost 6 years lol. Great job! Keep it up. I enjoy reading and seeing the rebuild. Thanks for sharing.
Crash structure removed from new chassis. Little more damage to aluminum then I would have liked. But cosmetic in the end. Only anyone reading this post and I will have know ? tomorrow I hope to separate the aluminum off the good crash structure so it’s ready to go on new chassis.
Good progress. It looks like you are rebuilding the blue one with parts from the gray <img src="https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smilie" class="inlineimg" />
Yes that is the plan, also blue chassis is 2008 so gain a year newer and full Mohawk roof I like better. Not sure finally color yet. Plan to surprise all that are following when paint work is finished.
Sent you PM because at first message would not show on thread. If no one else replies with what Lotus uses I would recommend 3M body panel adhesive. 3M is used by body shops to glue on quarter panels, door skins, and more. Modern cars use this anywhere you don’t see spot welds and has been found to be structurally stronger. The type I use is black. I told you wrong price. Amazon has kit for $99 I’ve used on tin, plastic and wood so you will get a lot of uses for it just save extra mixing tips because adhesive hardens inside.
I was looking at 3M's site and the selection of structural epoxies is staggering in working time, cure time and strengths. From what I can remember the DP 420 is the one for alum to alum allowing 20 minute working time and 24hr cure and available in a couple of sizes.
By the way, BWR has a really nice tool for changing out the wishbone mounts. Who's monoballs did you ended up going with? I will be curious to see how long they last. It appears that under moderate to heavy track use, they don't last that long.
I got mine from Monkey Wrench and they use an aluminum sleeve that holds the assembly. Did you happen to get a part # off of one of the bearings? I'm curious to see the specs for this bearing versus the one that came in the Monkey Wrench setup. When I replaced mine, I purchased a higher performance bearing than the originals.
The design is the same except the bearing used by Monkey Wrench is smaller in OD, that is why it is inside of an aluminum sleeve. That is why I'm curious if you got the part # off of the bearing.
Safely delivered to painter. Fingers crossed on a speedy paint job. Most panels are already sanded, rear clam is fully repaired and in primer. Only few small repairs needed on right door.
Removed aluminum from front crash structure. Was not as bad as I thought. Luckily air chisel made it easy to section aluminum structure into smaller strips. Less heat need to release bonding.
@munozt check out this project if you haven't seen...full chassis swap. But that front crash structure brings back bad memories. I am still itchy from all that fiberglass everytime I think about it.
Consider installing a bleeder directly on the radiator. Access to the stock bleeder (at least in my 2005 Elise) is absurd. But I can SEE the upper corner of my radiator...
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