The Lotus Cars Community banner
  • Hi there! Why not register as a user to enjoy all of the benefits of the site? You may register here. When you register, please pick a username that is non-commercial. If you use a name that appears on any search engine commercially, you must pick another name, whether it applies to you or not. Commercial usernames are for supporting vendor use only. If you want to become a supporting vendor and grow your business, please follow this link. Thanks!

Favorite Writer: Maintenance on Hagerty

4K views 22 replies 5 participants last post by  glb 
#1 ·
Rob Siegel writes for "Roundel" and is on the Hagerty web page.

Carbuff and I really like his articles. While I can't post his "Roundel" pieces here, I can point you to his Hagerty stuff:

Choosing the right fuel will protect your classic

https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2018/08/13/choosing-the-right-fuel-for-your-classic



A trick to removing stripped Allen-key bolts can be a game of 0.003 inches

https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2018/07/09/removing-a-stripped-allen-key-bolt


The best advice for exhaust work: Replace it all

https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2018/07/16/advice-for-exhaust-work
 
See less See more
#2 ·
#3 ·
#4 ·
#5 ·
#6 ·
#7 ·
#8 ·
#9 ·
#10 ·
#11 ·
#12 ·
#13 ·
#14 ·
#15 ·
Can't disagree with anything he wrote, but do wonder why he didn't mention pre-oiling engines that you can. Lots of old designs use a spur gear turning a shaft with the distributor on one end and the oil pump on the other. It's usually pretty easy to fake the distributor drive end of this shaft (or just use a distributor shaft with the gear removed) and use a portable drill to get operating oil pressure into the engine while it's sitting still. A shot of oil down each spark plug hole plus this is about the best possible way to bring a long-dead engine back to life.

For best effect, you slowly turn the engine through two revolutions by hand while running the oil pump. This gets all the cross drillings to line up and oil everything thoroughly.

On the Toyota S engine in my Celica (5S-FE) the oil pump is driven by the cam belt. You can pre-oil the engine by removing the cam belt and spinning the pump sprocket with a 12mm socket on the sprocket mounting nut. Works a treat.
 
#16 ·
He later added hint to pour oil into cylinders, but that's it.

GOOD tip on pre-oiling, SP.
 
#18 ·
Rob:

Yeah, the drill method is often discussed. I'm not as sanguine about it as other folks. I think the best method is spinning the engine itself.
 
#20 ·
Good stuff to know. I am at the stage where disassembly on a old Jaguar is complete. Say hypothetically I had the valve cover off, where would I try to get some oil in there? Going to do everything else, Marvel Mystery Oil in cylinders, turn engine using crank pulley.

I am afraid of using too much Marvel Mystery oil. Car has not ran in over 7 years, but no reason to expect copious amounts of surface rust in cylinders.

I don't want to glaze my new plugs, royal pain in ass x12...
 
#21 ·
I am afraid of using too much Marvel Mystery oil. Car has not ran in over 7 years, but no reason to expect copious amounts of surface rust in cylinders.

I don't want to glaze my new plugs, royal pain in ass x12...
If the engine's not stuck, then you don't want MMO. Engine oil is what you want between rings and bore. One light shot down each spark plug hole, then turn the engine through a rev or two.

If you're planning on starting it afterward, just disconnect the ignition, leave the plugs out, drape a heavy towel over the plug holes, and spin the engine with the starter (after turning it over by hand first) for 10 sec or so. That'll blow any excess oil out of the cylinders through the plug holes. Put things together, and start it. I've never fouled a plug on an engine after doing this. You'll get a little puff of white smoke on startup, but there's never enough oil left to keep things from working.
 
#22 ·
pre oiling

ehh

sure if it is an expensive Maserati engine. But sitting with dead old oil either has or hasn't rotted the bearing shells. You cannot know without taking it apart. IF you are going to take it apart, why are you starting it?

If it isn't full of water then you are not that different from starting it from an oil change, and if you have those serious doubts, you shouldn't be starting it.

Change the oil, check the coolant to make sure its coolant not dust.

Starting a long dead car is basically a small piece of disrespect. You are betting it doesn't throw a rod in the first 10 seconds, but kind of don't care if it does.

That Elise in that guys yard in florida for 10 years, hell ya, I'm checking the oil and throwing the jump pack on it. Toyota motors are a dime a dozen.

Even Lotus twin cam, cheap lower end go for it.

That Turbo Esprit or Maserati Merak, matching numbers 63 Vette, yeah, think we are towing her home and taking the long way.

Mystery oil is a great penetrant, so absolutely squirt it down the bores, then wait and follow with oil.


As a side note, the money he is talking about for a twin cam rebuild is crazy town, hell a new Ford block is less than 2 grand on your doorstep.
 
#23 ·
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top