Installing BOE 550 injectors, does this look right? - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Installing BOE 550 injectors, does this look right?

Everything seemed to go pretty smoothly.

But this is my first time installing injectors and I guess I expected things to go inside each other more LOL.

But really it just seems like the base of the injector just snugs into the rail and then the head of the injector just snugs into the block, and then you bolt everything down. Can someone "in the know' take a look at these pics and tell me if this all looks correct. I guess the thing that is bothering me most is this little blue squishy bushing where the injector meets the rail. Based on the way things fit together I would assume this is just some sort of spring to cushion the injector against the rail. But I want to make sure it's nothing stupid like I was supposed to shove that inside the rail.

I would rather ask a stupid question than burn my car down. Thanks!
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 01:07 PM
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pics?
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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pics?
Damn phone. Mobile version of this forum makes it look like pics are being attached. I will fix. Thanks

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Fixed

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 01:40 PM
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Yep - looks like you did it right.. Just check for leaks in the rail before starting the car (turn on the ignition to pressurize the system) just to be certain they are seated properly into the rail...

BTW - your engine looks a lot cleaner than mine

John D.

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Yep - looks like you did it right.. Just check for leaks in the rail before starting the car (turn on the ignition to pressurize the system) just to be certain they are seated properly into the rail...

BTW - your engine looks a lot cleaner than mine

John D.
Thanks that makes me feel better about it. And I appreciate the compliment! That means a lot! She doesn't have many miles on her (5k) but she sat for a long time. And lived in the desert. So I've been cleaning as I go, most bits of Death Valley dust while I am doing "11-yr-old-car-that-sat-for-3-years" refurb. She will be better than new when I am done.

I will definitely test and let the pumps prime and check for leaks. Right now I am waiting for Andrew & Phil @ BOE to work their magic on my ECU. Up next is trying to figure out how to remove the OEM s/c pulley. (this is turning out to be the most challenging part of everything I have done so far, including removing front and rear clams).

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 01:55 PM
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Ohh - ohhh - down that slippery slope we go!!

And I should know, because.....

You are going to LOVE the tune from Phil - and it's worth the wait. Had mine done before last season started - and it's run flawlessly since (street and a lot of track days). I'd be shocked if you had a different experience?

Too - the SC pulley can be daunting at first - but, take your time. Once the bolt is out, soak it with PB blaster (or stuff of your choice) to begin it moving out. If the clam is on - at least remove the rear wheel liner and jack up the car. Once it starts off the shaft - gently pry it off. It will come - slowly at first. Most recommend a gear puller - but, I took a more brutish approach (pry bar with rotating the pulley 1/4 turn - repeat and rinse). If you want to save the OEM pulley - be really careful not to score/bend the inner lip as you pry...

Anyway - post back if you have any questions, OK?

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 02:00 PM
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I've had some electrical issues around my injectors after installing the same injectors. While the jumper cables for the injectors come with the kit, they do not fit well under the heat shield for the IC in my case. When I spoke with BOE they said they skip the jumper cables and direct wire the new injector connectors for a better install. Might be worth considering if your fitment is not ideal there. While I believe my issues are elsewhere in the wiring or ecu connection, still trying to make sure the issue is completely gone, I'd double check the pins and such in the jumper cables.

Edit: The SC pulley does come off. I had to combine a few different pulley pullers to get a good fitment that would move it. PB blaster overnight and lots of trail and error on a puller that fit well enough to not just slip off.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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The OEM pulley can't wait to go into my trash bin. It told me so. So I'm not worried about keeping it in good shape. Holding the belt while someone else tries to torque the nut didn't work. I bought a chain clamp per another post here, but having a tough time getting it tightened around the pulley. I think once I get past removing the nut I will be good.

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LostPawn View Post
I've had some electrical issues around my injectors after installing the same injectors. While the jumper cables for the injectors come with the kit, they do not fit well under the heat shield for the IC in my case. When I spoke with BOE they said they skip the jumper cables and direct wire the new injector connectors for a better install. Might be worth considering if your fitment is not ideal there. While I believe my issues are elsewhere in the wiring or ecu connection, still trying to make sure the issue is completely gone, I'd double check the pins and such in the jumper cables.

Edit: The SC pulley does come off. I had to combine a few different pulley pullers to get a good fitment that would move it. PB blaster overnight and lots of trail and error on a puller that fit well enough to not just slip off.
So what did you end up doing? Were you able to remove the pins from the OEM connector and reuse them in the adapter's connector? Or did you have to cut and solder?

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 03:05 PM
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So what did you end up doing? Were you able to remove the pins from the OEM connector and reuse them in the adapter's connector? Or did you have to cut and solder?
The stock harness was cut and the adaptor was cut and solder together. It limits a couple connections and space constraints of the jumper cable. The adaptor is not the same size/shape to just change pins.

Here are some pics of how I held the SC Pulley still to remove the bolt. I believe somewhere BOE said to use a belt wrench to hold it. I found one that fit after a few that didn't. I also used the old belt that I would not be reusing, cut it to fit the wrench to provide grip on the pulley.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks! I might go that route just to tidy things up. I'm pretty decent at soldering.

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 04:03 PM
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.... I believe somewhere BOE said to use a belt wrench to hold it. I found one that fit after a few that didn't. I also used the old belt that I would not be reusing, cut it to fit the wrench to provide grip on the pulley.
EXACTLY what I did! I saw the question on my phone (I hate reading this forum on my phone!) and LostPawn did EXACTLY what I was going to post...

Yep - it's easy off using that...

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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.... I believe somewhere BOE said to use a belt wrench to hold it. I found one that fit after a few that didn't. I also used the old belt that I would not be reusing, cut it to fit the wrench to provide grip on the pulley.
EXACTLY what I did! I saw the question on my phone (I hate reading this forum on my phone!) and LostPawn did EXACTLY what I was going to post...

Yep - it's easy off using that...

John D.
Have several old belt wrenches taking up space. I will try them.

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-11-2018, 05:58 PM
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Some pics that may or may not help. Uploading from my phone so hope they are not too big.
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 07-12-2018, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you!!!

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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 08:01 AM
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Hi guys - Bumping an old thread here but I have a very similar question to the one that OP asked. I am installing the same injectors (EV-14) in my S240 and while everything appears to be lined up and seated correctly, the tabs that the fuel rail mounting bolts go through no longer seat correctly on the engine mounting points. If you look at OPs second picture you can see the same small gap between the RH mounting tab and the place where it seats on the engine. The effective length (between the top and bottom cushions) of the EV-14s are a bit longer than the stock green injectors, hence the problem. Assuming that this is normal, should I shim up the gap so that the rail can be seated correctly and torqued to the correct value?
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 12:20 PM
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Hi guys - Bumping an old thread here but I have a very similar question to the one that OP asked. I am installing the same injectors (EV-14) in my S240 and while everything appears to be lined up and seated correctly, the tabs that the fuel rail mounting bolts go through no longer seat correctly on the engine mounting points. If you look at OPs second picture you can see the same small gap between the RH mounting tab and the place where it seats on the engine. The effective length (between the top and bottom cushions) of the EV-14s are a bit longer than the stock green injectors, hence the problem. Assuming that this is normal, should I shim up the gap so that the rail can be seated correctly and torqued to the correct value?

I think mine has always just pulled tight pretty easy when I put the bolts in, it doesn't sit 100% flush when it is loose, but it shouldnt take much force at all to get it flush.

2007 Exige S with almost every track mod...
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 05:32 AM
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I think mine has always just pulled tight pretty easy when I put the bolts in, it doesn't sit 100% flush when it is loose, but it shouldnt take much force at all to get it flush.
Thanks! I tightened mine up (slowly) and it ended up sitting flush with the standoffs. I guess the cushions on the new injectors just needed to be compressed a tiny bit.
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