Jacking the Elise and Placing on Jackstands - Page 3 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #41 of 141 (permalink) Old 06-04-2007, 06:10 PM
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I may be the only one, but I have to give a word of caution.

I once attempted to lift one side of the car and slide the RhinoRamps under that side (going to repeat it for the other side).

Before I go the car high enough to slide the RhinoRamp under the rear tire, the angle of the car (one one side lifted) causes the jack to slip - and luckily - shoot out from under the side of the car. Luckily, because the car fell back to the ground without hitting the jack or causing any damage.

I learned my lesson, and back up on the RhinoRamps to access the under-tray and remove it, then drive it back down onto the ground. I then jack up one side high enough to get two jackstands under the car with then set at their lowest point. Then I jack up the other side to normal working height and place the jack stands. Then back to the first side to raise those two jacks to the working height.

Lowering is the reverse.

Like I said, I may be the only one, and several people lift the car and slide the RhinoRamps under the tires, but I'm not going to even consider doing that again. Once was close enough to catastrophe...




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post #42 of 141 (permalink) Old 06-05-2007, 05:11 AM
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I also back the car onto the Rhino ramps first, then I use the jack to lift one side enough to put the jack stand under it. Once you are on the rhino ramps, it does not take much to lift the car enough to get a jack stand under it, and their is little chance of the jack shooting out from under the car since both rear wheels are already on the rhino ramps and the car is level side to side. The angle from front to rear is MUCH less since the car is longer in that direction so again, really no chance of the jack shooting out because of the angle.

Good point Tim!

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post #43 of 141 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 10:13 AM
 
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Is there a way to jack the car up only from the 2 "C" points without placing jack stands under points "B"? I torqued my toe-links without having to use more than one jack but I'd like to know for future reference. I don't think the front wheels would resettle onto the ground without tipping the car since the frame is so stiff.
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post #44 of 141 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 11:40 AM
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You don't have to use jack stands under the front of the car when you lift the rear. Back the rear of the car onto ramps, drop the undertray, then jack the car at point "A", install jack stand under "C" and remove ramp. Repeat for the other side. You will end up with the front wheels on the ground and the rear on jack stands. Make sure you chock both front wheels though!

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post #45 of 141 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpsalm
I torqued my toe-links without having to use more than one jack but I'd like to know for future reference.
I've pointed this out several times before, but here it is again.

The toe-link bolt is also the lower a-arm bushing mounting bolt. Only tighten that bolt (and any other bushing bolts) with the car at ride height - wheels on the ground. If the wheels are "drooping" with the car on jack stands, it will "pre-load" the bushing - besides causing the bushing to fail sooner, it will mess up the effective spring rate of the suspension.

Put the wheels on the ground or on RhinoRamps (or something else) so that the weight of the car is on the wheels prior to tightening the suspension bolts.




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post #46 of 141 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 04:06 PM
 
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Good to know, thanks... It's hard sifting through the many many many threads on this topic...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TimMullen
I've pointed this out several times before, but here it is again.

The toe-link bolt is also the lower a-arm bushing mounting bolt. Only tighten that bolt (and any other bushing bolts) with the car at ride height - wheels on the ground. If the wheels are "drooping" with the car on jack stands, it will "pre-load" the bushing - besides causing the bushing to fail sooner, it will mess up the effective spring rate of the suspension.

Put the wheels on the ground or on RhinoRamps (or something else) so that the weight of the car is on the wheels prior to tightening the suspension bolts.
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post #47 of 141 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 04:34 PM
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Placing on 4 jack stands

I have two racing aluminum floor jacks from Summit Racing (built-in hockey pucks, 3000 lb capacity). Caution - lower carefully, VERY gradually release the handles, otherwise they lower all the way at once.

Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Remove the rear diffuser.

Jack the rear of the car using both locations D gradually at the same time. Place jack stands near locations C.

Repeat using both locations B at the same time at the front. Place jack stands under the tie rods. The car remains stable at all times.

Raising one side of the car using location A did not seem very stable. Too bad. I would have preferred not to have to remove the rear diffuser.
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post #48 of 141 (permalink) Old 03-29-2009, 11:21 PM
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Is it safe to apply 1 jack stand each on both sides of point "B" if I'm planning to replace front rotors and pads?
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post #49 of 141 (permalink) Old 03-30-2009, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ichibanset View Post
Is it safe to apply 1 jack stand each on both sides of point "B" if I'm planning to replace front rotors and pads?
Yes i do it all the time, infact i have all 4 wheels off the ground using B, C or D.

Use A to lift one side, place a stand under B. Then lift the other side using A and place a stand under B.

As a side note, alot of members here like to put hockey pucks on top of the stand. I feel this practice is kinda dangerous, the chassis is made to be lifted there so there is no reason to protect it.

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post #50 of 141 (permalink) Old 03-30-2009, 01:10 PM
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Thanks a million Sh4rkattk. Very Helpful.
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post #51 of 141 (permalink) Old 03-30-2009, 01:16 PM
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Just to clarify: Do not use point A and B as your jack points to take off all four wheels or you will learn what a qball is.

four wheels off should only be done as sh4rkattk listed - B plus C or D.
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post #52 of 141 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 11:43 PM
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Because A is a balance point, is it unsafe to just put the front on jack stands via:
1. Jack car up at A.
2. Place jack stand at B.
3. Jack car up at A on opposite side.
4. Place jack stand at other B.

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post #53 of 141 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 09:07 PM
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I am designing a vehicle fixture on locking casters that can be placed under the car while car is on ramps that can then be used to lift the car and level it at each corner for suspension or other work with wheels removed. It could also be moved around the shop with wheels removed and in the air.

Can somebody give me a measurement between jack points B, C, and D?

Cross car measure, as well as lengthwise. (X and Y directions)

Much appreciated.

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post #54 of 141 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009, 09:23 PM
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Here is how I do it:

1. chock front wheels
2. Remove diffuser and under pan
3. Use floor jack on center of rear frame cross member to get the rear of the car up.
4. place floor jacks at each end of the frame cross member and gently lower onto jacks.
5. Using two scissor jacks, one under each of the front jack points, lift the front by incrementally raising each side a few turns (so the frame isn't torqued much).

Any issues with that? I've done it this way a number of times... no damage so far.
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post #55 of 141 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 11:07 AM
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If all of this is the rule then what are the two posts just in front of the wheels that say use these with a four point lift for? can one just put the jack stands on those and the front points where the one guy has his bricks?

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post #56 of 141 (permalink) Old 12-28-2009, 04:05 PM
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what about just putting jackstands behind the four brake calipers in place of the four tires? will it make any difference since the weight distribution is just about the as with the tires on?
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post #57 of 141 (permalink) Old 12-29-2009, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toysport View Post
what about just putting jackstands behind the four brake calipers in place of the four tires? will it make any difference since the weight distribution is just about the as with the tires on?
There is nothing to put the jackstands on there.

Use the "A" points (in front of the rear wheels) to jack up one side of the car.

Use the "B" points (in the front) to hole up the front of the car.

After removing the engine under tray and/or diffuser, use the "C" or "D" points to hold up the rear of the car.

If you just jacks at the "A" point on each side of the car (as shown in the photo with the brick up front) you run the very serious risk of "qballing" you car - it will fall over backward with just the slightest added weight to the rear (or the removal of a front tire as in Qball's case).

Use the Jack Helper to life the rear of the car, but you still need the undertray off to place the jackstands.

Any other way is not safe.




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post #58 of 141 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 06:14 AM
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When lifting an elise / exige with a two post asymetric lift, is it safe to use 4x4 wood blocks where the Really Light Stuff adapters are shown in this picture? Which point on the diagram indicated the correct front lift point? Is it point B?


Don't quote me, but I am pretty sure that I saw them do this at a dealer....

Does anybody have a picture of an Elise or an Exige on a 2 post lift?

Thank you in advance!
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post #59 of 141 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kameltoe View Post
When lifting an elise / exige with a two post asymetric lift, is it safe to use 4x4 wood blocks where the Really Light Stuff adapters are shown in this picture? Which point on the diagram indicated the correct front lift point? Is it point B?


Don't quote me, but I am pretty sure that I saw them do this at a dealer....

Does anybody have a picture of an Elise or an Exige on a 2 post lift?

Thank you in advance!
The correct front lift point is point B. Point A is for lifting both the front and rear wheels on one side at the same time using a floor jack. Do NOT try to use point A with a service lift to raise the entire car!

The cut down 4X4 inserted into the same spot where the RLS lift kit is fitted in the photo is what the dealers use. Just be sure to insert the block of wood correctly into the correct spot or you may damage the thin aluminum frame extrusion and be sure to remove the block of wood before driving off. The RLS kit is a much more elegant solution for rear lift points and since it is bolted in place you always have the rear lift points with you and available for use and you do not run the risk of poorly placing the wood blocks causing possible damage to the frame extrusion.

(The photo in your post above is actually my Elise with the prototype lift kit fitted on my 2 post asymmetric lift.)

Last edited by tesprit; 03-31-2010 at 07:54 AM.
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post #60 of 141 (permalink) Old 04-04-2010, 05:08 PM
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I bought 4 bottle hydraulic jacks (2 ton each capacity) and I'm planning to use them tomorrow to remove the wheels -> with hockey pucks as recommended . . I didn't see anyone mention them at all in this thread. . will they work okay or should I return them and buy the kind with a locking pin adjustment. . .
It's my first attempt and I hate to screw it up. . .
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