Jacking the Elise and Placing on Jackstands - Page 6 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #101 of 141 (permalink) Old 04-11-2013, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surge View Post
Be very careful with ramps! Accidents have happened where the car slides off a ramp while backing up, or the ramp slides out from under the car while it's moving up or down the ramps.
Better to jack the car and place it on the ramps, rather than driving the car up the ramps.
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Originally Posted by RWLott View Post
The ramps I made are long, heavy, and do not move. I always have someone watching from behind as I slooowly back onto them. No issues.
May be a repost:

Those plastic ramps, in my experience, truly suck. Tiny rubber feet that allow the ramps to slide around. Junk and dangerous for certain.

My very old (& cheap) metal ramps never move. I did attach a larger stop at the end of each, but the metal edges do not slide on my unpainted concrete floor.

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post #102 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 09:22 AM
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I am about to jack my new Elise for the first time, and worried I'll mess it up and damage the car. Can you guys review the steps below and tell me if anything is wrong or missing?

1) use trolley jack to jack car on right side at point A
2) lower car onto plastic ramp on rear wheel
3) repeat (1) but on left side
4) repeat (2) but on left side
5) remove under tray at rear
6) lower car and drive around to warm engine
7) raise car on right side with jack at point A
8) place 2 jack stands at front and rear of car on right side (points B and C)
9) lower car onto stands
10) repeat (8) and (9) on left side
11) use trolley jack again to raise car on both sides if required
12) reverse above to complete

Also, wheels should be loosened before jacking if you are not using an impact wrench.

And I've read about a hockey puck to place on the stands, but mine are too narrow to properly seat a hockey puck. So I'm thinking of using a cork/rubber square instead (Grainger Mason item # 4C977)

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post #103 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surge View Post
I am about to jack my new Elise for the first time, and worried I'll mess it up and damage the car. Can you guys review the steps below and tell me if anything is wrong or missing?

1) use trolley jack to jack car on right side at point A
2) lower car onto plastic ramp on rear wheel
3) repeat (1) but on left side
4) repeat (2) but on left side
5) remove under tray at rear
6) lower car and drive around to warm engine
7) raise car on right side with jack at point A
8) place 2 jack stands at front and rear of car on right side (points B and C)
9) lower car onto stands
10) repeat (8) and (9) on left side
11) use trolley jack again to raise car on both sides if required
12) reverse above to complete
up, down, up, down... :

What are you trying to accomplish? Why do you need to lift the entire car? Why are you lifting the car, dropping it, driving it and then lifting it again? How about drive then lift...? Lots going on there that is quite out of order and seems unnecessary.
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post #104 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 10:25 AM
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Thanks for reminding me why I have you on my ignore list, RoadDad!

It's quite clear what I'm trying to accomplish, as per the thread - jacking the elise and placing on jackstands.
Driving it is to warm the fluids, as I stated. You can drive it before, but then you risk cooling the oil by the time the undertray is removed...

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post #105 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Surge View Post
Thanks for reminding me why I have you on my ignore list, RoadDad!

It's quite clear what I'm trying to accomplish, as per the thread - jacking the elise and placing on jackstands.
Driving it is to warm the fluids, as I stated. You can drive it before, but then you risk cooling the oil by the time the undertray is removed...
Put me back on your ignore list... and proceed on with the silliest method of oil change I've ever seen.

Obviously it isn't clear that you are just trying to perform a simple oil change, for which you have absolutely no need to jack up the front of the car. That's why I asked... and no, your oil isn't going to cool enough to matter if you drive it first, jack it up and drop the tray... I've done it for years.

Then again, I bet most folks here jack up their car, drop the tray, drop the car, drive it around, then jack it up again to change the oil... sounds pretty standard...

Good luck.
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post #106 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 11:32 AM
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I just drive it, then lift it and put it on ramps in the rear (or drive up on them).
Then remove undertray and drain oil.
It is not like your oil is turning into a solid mass if the oil temp drops a few degrees until you drain it.

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Last edited by Mr.C; 05-24-2013 at 11:12 AM.
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post #107 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 11:42 AM
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Yes, but I'm also changing the brake fluid and transmission fluids, so I need to remove the wheels.

I'm sure the oil won't solidify, but I'm not sure how long it will take me the first time to remove the under tray, so why let the oil cool?

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post #108 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surge View Post
Yes, but I'm also changing the brake fluid and transmission fluids, so I need to remove the wheels.

I'm sure the oil won't solidify, but I'm not sure how long it will take me the first time to remove the under tray, so why let the oil cool?
Geez, Surge

Tray takes 5 minutes, then drain oil and trans lube.

I have never heard of the technique you describe; way too much work.

Are you sure you can't bleed brakes right thru the spokes? Many of us can.

Pray tell which oil and trans lube are you going to use?

BTW:

For oil and trans fluid change, need only ramps.

If you must remove wheels, safer to do only one side per time...or even one corner.

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post #109 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 12:01 PM
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Sounds very complex for a simple job.

If you are, in fact, using "plastic ramps" why not drive the car up on those? Backing up onto ramps isn't hard. You can remove the undertray with the ramps in place.

If removing the undertray takes so long that the oil cools, just start the car up again while on the ramps and let the temp come back up.

Also, you don't need to remove the wheels to replace the transmission fluid or bleed the barkes. I do it just using the ramps and working on the brakes from underneath. Very easy.

Good luck

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post #110 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 01:03 PM
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As stated, the wheels do not need to be removed to bleed the brakes.

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post #111 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surge View Post
I'm sure the oil won't solidify, but I'm not sure how long it will take me the first time to remove the under tray, so why let the oil cool?
Even if it took you an hour, the oil in the oil pan will still be plenty runny for an oil change. But don't worry, it will take about 10 minutes your first time.

It takes me about 3 minutes now.

None of the fluid replacements you mention require you to remove the wheels, by the way.
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post #112 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 04:56 PM
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i just do the oil... and then take the car off (i use plastic rino ramps, personally, never had a problem). and then set the car on the ground and lift each corner to do the bleed (and the clutch while i have that wheel up. why? well... not that it matters, but i like to have the wheels off to inspect everything and just have more room - its pretty quick regardless...

if the engine is truly warmed up - you are going to need the time it takes to raise the car and remove the tray to let it cool enough to drain! i mean, oil will stay more than warm enough for a good while.

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post #113 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-23-2013, 08:52 PM
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Very helpful... not having to remove the wheels for the brake fluid flush will be a huge time savings. THANKS.

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post #114 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-24-2013, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surge View Post
Very helpful... not having to remove the wheels for the brake fluid flush will be a huge time savings. THANKS.
You're entirely welcome.

Couple of points, some repeats:

1. The plastic ramps I've used slid around dangerously. If I owned them (not a chance), I'd attach a pc of wood with rubber fastened to it.

2. I use a Sears hand vacuum pump and brake bleed kit, but however you do this:

a. Do not use your foot, which pushes the m/c piston into the rough, unused portion of the cylinder, prematurely wearing the seal.

b. Just before opening bleed valve, tap the caliper with something to release the air bubbles clinging to the metal into the stream of b/f about to leave.

c. I love Castrol LMA. Tech guy for NJ BMW CCA found it still had high boiling point when "old", better than the other brands he tested.

3. Bear in mind we only get a portion of our oil out; the lines & coolers still have oil in them.

I think most of us use mobil 1 turbo diesel 5w-40.


Last, RoadDad was trying to help you and he was, in fact, correct.

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post #115 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-24-2013, 08:14 PM
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Thanks glb. I don't like Roaddad's style, and I'm not sure he was "right"... My method was correct, it was taken from the Sands site, but I've learned it was overkill.

As for the ramps, that's why I plan to raise the car with a jack, then lower it on the ramps. I'm not going to drive up them.

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post #116 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-25-2013, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surge View Post
Thanks glb. I don't like Roaddad's style, and I'm not sure he was "right"... My method was correct, it was taken from the Sands site, but I've learned it was overkill.

As for the ramps, that's why I plan to raise the car with a jack, then lower it on the ramps. I'm not going to drive up them.
I suggest getting better ramps or modifying your so they don't move. My cheap, old steel ramps never budge. (Modifying them should take 20 minutes or so.)

I say this because it's just easier and much quicker, and you'll be using the ramps fairly often.

Sands is simply quite wrong; that method is ridiculous.

RD is a very smart guy and helps many ppl here. He can be funny and sarcastic, but worthwhile reading.

He was, indeed, correct, Surge.

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post #117 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-26-2013, 08:00 AM
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Thanks to everyone's help (including Roaddad's (despite the sarcasm I jacked her up and placed the rear wheels on ramps yesterday. It was quite nerve wracking as I felt the hockey puck was slipping as it got higher, so I took off the hockey puck and used my hydraulic trolley jack with its own "pad" and that seemed to work better.

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post #118 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-26-2013, 08:15 AM
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Oops, sorry but I forgot to mention this: Hockey pucks, save the soft rubber ones someone told me exist for street hockey, are NO GOOD. Too hard, too slippery.

I use a piece of wood: non-slip and spreads force over a greater area.

Good for you for seeing that and changing methods.

05 elise (BOE Rev300 supercharged, SSRs, shift tower mods, Multivex; HID hi/low beams); 05 Corolla XRS. Past '72 Elan Sprint (I restored), Lotus 7 w/X-flow, TT Supra, Bugeye Sprite, BMW 2002 & 2002tii, '65 GTO.

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post #119 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-26-2013, 10:04 AM
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I thought hockey pucks were a little slippy to so I bought a boat trailer rubber roller and sliced it. Works well, has a hole in the middle which I use with a bolt head to keep it centered on the jack stand and I was able to cut the roller sections long enough to not need to modify the curve on the top of the stands.



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post #120 of 141 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 07:55 AM
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Nice, Wmangm, I like that approach.

Also, it seems like the Jack Helper is the best to go to raise the rear of the car and lower it onto ramps. Is that correct?
Rather than raise the car at point A, raise it at the rear with the Jack Helper then lower onto ramps. Am I missing something?

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