Rear Caliper Bolt Torque & Loctite/Anti-Seize? - Page 2 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-24-2010, 05:05 PM
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I know this is a really old thread but its what came up in my search.

- I started by trying to remove the rotor after taking out the pin and outer pad. Problem was the allen bolt holding the rotor on was rusted tight. Even after PB Blaster I was in danger of breaking the allen key or striping the head. I'm sure with more effort I can get the rotor off, but I hit a point of dimishing return for the pad replacement job.

- So I moved on to using the removal of the upper 17mm bolt method. It is not at all difficult and the caliper rotates down quite easily providing access to retract the pistion and position new pads.

IMHO just removing and re-torquing the upper bolt is the way to go.
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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-24-2010, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by TimMullen View Post
Hmmmm.... Very interesting (said in an Artie Johnson voice)...


Let's see how many old timers identify the meaning of that...
The show "Laugh In" from the 1960's

Good to know the HPS's are too fat to go in ,,, they were going to be my DD pad.
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-27-2011, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank Amoroso View Post
...

Make sure your replacement pads are thin enough (I think the stock pad material thickness, not including backing plates, is 6mm, although I think you could get away with almost 8mm). With a mostly new (standard width) rotor, there are pads that are too thick (like some hawks and I've seen others mentioned here). Apparantly, the pad shape is some stock viper part, but ours need to be thinner to start with.

FWIW: Including the backing plates, new Hawk HPS front are 14mm and rears are 14.8mm (and these, per the above, are too thick I might add).


Happy braking,
I know this thread is old but a search is a search.
I just tried to change my rear pads. I came here to learn how. I am going to try the rotor removal method. I tried to remove the caliper but the e-brake and brake lines were in the way.
I bought the Hawk HPS pads for street use. They are definitely not 14mm thick. I don't have a depth gauge but they seem to be about 5/16".

Nightfall Blue, Hard top, Starshield, urge-to-drive pack is standard im told.
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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-27-2011, 04:22 PM
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I guarantee you don't have to take the rotor off to change the pads. I can do it in about 5 min now by just rotating the caliper down. No lines in the way...

Good luck in any case!
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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-27-2011, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by elisesile View Post
I guarantee you don't have to take the rotor off to change the pads. I can do it in about 5 min now by just rotating the caliper down. No lines in the way...

Good luck in any case!
+1

Even with 2-piece rotors and wheel studs, just removing the top caliper bolt (and sliding the bushing inwards), you can swivel the caliper back enough to replace the pads and screw down the piston. Just did this a few days ago...
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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-27-2011, 04:48 PM
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this might help , shows the rear pads also.

Lotus Elise Maintenance, Front Brake Pad Replacement

2011 Evora Starlight Black/Gold.
2005 Elise Saffron Yellow- (sold)
2014 Ford Escape
2008 Nissan Xterra
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 12:46 PM
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Reviving an old thread.

If you remove the top caliper bolt (Rear caliper), are you supposed to lubricate it before putting it back?

Also for the caliper to rotate downwards do you have to loosen the lower caliper bolt or is it sufficient just to loosen the top bolt?

Last edited by David Craig; 05-16-2019 at 12:47 PM. Reason: spelling
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