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Save $150 Turn Signal Repair

3K views 3 replies 3 participants last post by  CloudySkys 
#1 ·
I had a turn signal tab break. I tried the sands museum bungee cord fix. The tab broke again 6 months later. I bought a new signal $160. It then broke shortly.

I have not tested the longevity of this solution, but I will next spring when the weather is better.

The process is similar to OEM but you eliminate the flexing plastic. In place of the plastic you use a screw, spacer, and washer(s).

I purchased a package of 2 nylon anchor nuts <$1 with tax from Lowes. First 2 pictures.

I then placed a mark in the center of the tab 1/2" from the base of the tab. I drilled a pilot hole, then a second, and finally the 5/16" hole. The 5/16" hole allowed the anchor nut to slide and lock in place. I then bonded and reinforced lock nut to the tab with Locktite Plastic Bonder Epoxy (<$7). Ensure the adhesive you use is compatible with Nylon and plastic.

Next is the screw. I had screws sitting around so I didn't need to buy any. You need a coarse threaded screw about 1.375" long (85mm). If it is longer it will interfere with the base of the housing.
Option 1
I used a spacer (in my case a nut) about the size of the screw head and a washer to apply tension to the system. I put the spacer on then the washer. I then tack welded the washer to the screw. The welder was next to me in the garage and the JB Weld was in the basement (I guess I am lazy). Make sure you install the washer orthogonal to the screw.

Option 2
Use a truss head screw to apply the tension.

I have these sitting around too, but opted for the screw, spacer, and washer method. This allows the screw and spacer to function as secondary lock and provides a margin of error. If the lense becomes loose the screw shaft will keep it from flying out (unless the plastic breaks).

Assemble the pieces as described. Install the screw in the light just enough so you can slide the light into place. Once the light assembly is in place, back the screw out to put tension on the system. You access the screw through the OEM location. You may need to trim the bottom of the clam tab to allow the screw head and spacer to hook on the underside of the clam tab.

You don't need to wrench it down or you will break something! A few turns then check. As it starts to tighten up reduce to degrees of rotation then check.

If your tab is broken more you can source a piece of plastic and bond that to the lense. I will try this option next, should the need rise.
 

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#2 ·
I thought I would provide an update.

It is still working just fine.

If I had to do it over again I would use Stainless allen or bolt head screw. Philips head is somewhat a pain now.

It handles 120+ mph speeds. I have frequented the track a fair amount over the years.
 
#3 ·
OK, but I found it much easier to use a bit of clear silicone under the gasket.

Invisible and still holding firm after about 5 years.
 
#4 ·
When I bought my car the turn signals had broken clips and were held in with silicone. About 2 weeks in I lost one at about 90mph on the interstate, luckily it ripped the wires out from the back of the bulb connector so it didn't flop around and damage the clam. I bought a new signal at the dealership, installed it, and discovered the next day that the clip was already broken. I pulled the other signal out and scraped/peeled all the silicone out of it then put them both back on and taped them down with strips of some cheap paint protection fill stuff. Cost me like $3 for the roll that I used maybe 1/20th of and has held up just fine for the year since.


TL : DR I taped my turn signals in and it works great.
 
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