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What's the Best Synthetic Oil for Elise?

What's the Best Synthetic Oil for Elise?

96K views 201 replies 84 participants last post by  Fat Pelican 
#1 · (Edited)
<< POLL >> What's the Best Synthetic Oil for Elise? (for Street Use)

Since I found it to be IMPOSSIBLE to find the recommended Havoline Synthetic 5W40 motor oil, I've spent the rest of the day researching alternatives.

I tried to list all the options that have been mentioned on this forum. If you choose '"Other", list it below.

Here are the cheapest places I found for these-
Red Line 'Street' 5W-40
http://www.soloperformance.com/Defau...&productID=126

AMSOIL 'European Car Formula' 5W-40
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/Sea...x?CategoryID=8

Mobil 1 ‘European Car Formula’ 0W-40
http://www.store.yahoo.com/parkplace...1trismoto.html
 
#27 ·
bluejae said:
my 1000 mile service paper says 6 Quarts of Texaco 5w40 synt... at $8.45 a quart

is there anything wrong here?
It should only be 5 quarts - and the "Texaco" is Texaco Havoline 5W40 synthetic, so that part is okay. The price per quart is a little high though, but not really out of line for dealer prices...
 
#28 ·
RacyTracy said:
My dealer (FVMC) used Castrol at my last oil change, but I have no idea what is best....and so therefor, did not vote.
Same here, I am not voting - at my first service at FVMC they used Castrol Syntec 5W40. I'm not sure if this is the best oil option and trying to figure out which oil option is best leaves me feeling like I've been doing this > :wallbang:
 
#29 ·
goelise said:
Same here, I am not voting - at my first service at FVMC they used Castrol Syntec 5W40. I'm not sure if this is the best oil option and trying to figure out which oil option is best leaves me feeling like I've been doing this > :wallbang:
You may be overthinking this, IMHO any synthetic 5W40 (or 0W40 :) )will work fine.
 
#30 ·
I've done my oil changes with Castrol 5W-40 pretty much because that's what HRM used at my 1000 mi. service.

I can't figure this out:
I got a "service supplement" from VAG a while back on the oils approved on the 502.00 for the 1.8 turbo engines. It lists 5W-40 with 9 brands of oil, but Mobil is specified at 0W-40.

New BMWs and Minis have the phrase "BMW (or Mini) recommends Castrol" moulded into the engine covers, but I was told that's basically due to the F1 sponsorship contract. Before that, BMWs had stickers that read "BMW recommends Mobil (like AMG and a few other cars have).
 
#31 ·
I used 15-50 last year in my 1st ELise, and just changed to it again. We have hypothesized that high g cutoff issues MIGHT be related to an exposed oil sensor in the bottom of the pan. By going to 15-50 we might be getting less splosh of oil all heading to the other side of the pan (whatever hasn't been pumped up to the head). Overfilling by 1/2 a quart might have helped too. :shrug:
 
#32 ·
Surferjer said:
I used 15-50 last year in my 1st ELise, and just changed to it again. We have hypothesized that high g cutoff issues MIGHT be related to an exposed oil sensor in the bottom of the pan. By going to 15-50 we might be getting less splosh of oil all heading to the other side of the pan (whatever hasn't been pumped up to the head). Overfilling by 1/2 a quart might have helped too. :shrug:
Jer: do you have the Moroso pan, or can you even use it in the Stock class?
 
#34 ·
It should be noted that the owner's manual does not REQUIRE the use of Havoline engine oil. Page 153 of the '06 manual states:

"...a fully synthetic 5W/40 oil such as Texaco Havoline Synthetic should be used."

The rest of the paragraph reads like a Texaco sales brochure! Importantly, the paragraph ends with:

"If Texaco/Havoline products are not available, an oil meeting the following specification should be used."

(Spec listed - 5W/40, API SL/CF, SJ/CF; ACEA A3)

I wouldn't be surprised if Texaco paid Lotus a fair amout of money to be named in the manual. However, what's most important is to use a synthetic oil of the proper quality and viscosity regardless of name brand.
 
#35 ·
I voted Amsoil because oil analysis for my other cars show it is superior to the Mobil1 I have used most of my car-driving life. The euro formula 0w40 Mobil1 has oil analysis results that support some suppositions of high temperature shearing, check out the oil analysis forum at www.bobistheoilguy.com or my VW pages for oil analysis results .......
Valvoline 5w40 synthetic is readily available and others I know have been happy with it.
 
#36 ·
I went to Walmart last weekend to get the Mobil 1 5-40 "truck" oil and it is now a 5-30, what gives? So I'm guessing you cannot get a 5-40 from Mobil 1 anymore? I went ahead and got 0-40 weight, hope this will be OK.
 
#37 ·
05EliseNM said:
I went to Walmart last weekend to get the Mobil 1 5-40 "truck" oil and it is now a 5-30, what gives? So I'm guessing you cannot get a 5-40 from Mobil 1 anymore? I went ahead and got 0-40 weight, hope this will be OK.
Yes, you can still get it, but now the only 5-40 is called Turbo diesel Truck oil. It has all the ratings Lotus requires (and the same as the other Mobil 1 oils in similar weight).
I don't think Walmart carries it, but I found it at a local auto part store.

http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Turbo_Diesel_Truck_5W-40.aspx


Mark
 
#38 · (Edited)
The first number in the viscosity scale is denoted with a "w". This stands for "winter" not weight, meaning the oils viscosity at 32 deg. If you live in a cold climate, you should pay attention to this number closely. If you live in a warm climate, then the difference between 0 and 5 is undecernable. The second number is the oils viscosity at operating temperature, always go with the proper weight here.
The only proper way to tell which oil is best is through the American Petroleum Institute (API) tests called : TFOUT (D-4742) test which measures how long(when oxidized) the oil will resist breakdown, High Temp/High Shear (D-4583) test which measures under severe conditions the oils viscosity stability, NOACK Volitility (D-5800) test which measures how much evaporation loss takes place, A Total Base Number (D-2896) test which measures how well the oil controls acids, and (my personal favorite) a Four Ball Wear Test (D-4172) test which measures protection provided under pressure and sliding motion. There are a couple more tests but they relate to cold conditions and I am assuming the majority of us wont go 4 wheeling in an snow/ice storm.
I dont think the info comparing all oils is compiled in any one place, so one has to go to each manufacturer and do it yourself.
Here is some of my research:
1) Royal Purple has the highest TFOUT test numbers with ~1200 min.
BG Products is second with ~1000 min.
AMSOIL at about 500 min (they terminated their test at 500 min for some odd reason)
Mobil 1 at ~467 min
2) High Tem/High Shear winner was BG Products "High-Low 40"
Royal Purple
Amsoil
Mobil 1
3) Noack Volitility Test champ was BG Products "High-Low 40"
Royal Purple
Amsoil
Mobil 1
4) Total Base Number Winner Was Bg Products "High-Low 40"
Amsoil
Mobil 1
Royal Purple (I couldnt find results from this test)
5) 4 Ball Wear Test champ was BG's "High-Low 40"
Royal Purple
Amsoil
Mobil 1
** I can't seem to find Redlines info from these tests.
Now mind you, all of these manufacturers can change their formulation at any time and re-test.
So, just stick to the top 4 that you measure this way.
I know, probably TMI for you. Automotive chemicals and lubricants are my business so I could go on for days.....but I'll spare you.
 
#39 ·
I saw somebody buying ROTELLA T 5W40 at my Wal-Mart. It was sold in gallon jugs, so I may start using that stuff from now on. It's cheap and I'm sure it's as good as Havoline. It will be A LOT cheaper than Redline.
 
#40 ·
DARBY#33 said:
The first number in the viscosity scale is denoted with a "w". This stands for "winter" not weight, meaning the oils viscosity at 32 deg. If you live in a cold climate, you should pay attention to this number closely. If you live in a warm climate, then the difference between 0 and 5 is undecernable. The second number is the oils viscosity at operating temperature, always go with the proper weight here.
The only proper way to tell which oil is best is through the American Petroleum Institute (API) tests called : TFOUT (D-4742) test which measures how long(when oxidized) the oil will resist breakdown, High Temp/High Shear (D-4583) test which measures under severe conditions the oils viscosity stability, NOACK Volitility (D-5800) test which measures how much evaporation loss takes place, A Total Base Number (D-2896) test which measures how well the oil controls acids, and (my personal favorite) a Four Ball Wear Test (D-4172) test which measures protection provided under pressure and sliding motion. There are a couple more tests but they relate to cold conditions and I am assuming the majority of us wont go 4 wheeling in an snow/ice storm.
I dont think the info comaring all oils is compiled in any one place, so one has to go to each manufacturer and do it yourself.
Here is some of my research:
1) Royal Purple has the highest TFOUT test numbers with ~1200 min.
BG Products is second with ~1000 min.
AMSOIL at about 500 min (they terminated their test at 500 min for some odd reason)
Mobil 1 at ~467 min
2) High Tem/High Shear winner was BG Products "High-Low 40"
Royal Purple
Amsoil
Mobil 1
3) Noack Volitility Test champ was BG Products "High-Low 40"
Royal Purple
Amsoil
Mobil 1
4) Total Base Number Winner Was Bg Products "High-Low 40"
Amsoil
Mobil 1
Royal Purple (I couldnt find results from this test)
5) 4 Ball Wear Test champ was BG's "High-Low 40"
Royal Purple
Amsoil
Mobil 1
** I can't seem to find Redlines info from these tests.
Now mind you, all of these manufacturers can change their formulation at any time and re-test.
So, just stick to the top 4 that you measure this way.
I know, probably TMI for you. Automotive chemicals and lubricants are my business so I could go on for days.....but I'll spare you.
No, not too much information; thank you Mark. :bow: This board is such a great resource, there always seems to be at least one guy who is a SME on the area in question, or somebody with relevant experience to share.

I have never said this before, but "Thank you Randy and the other mods." Thank you for creating such a great forum for us Elise/Exige owners.

Is there a link to donate money for this site; if not, I think one should be added? At least give me a PayPal account that I can send a donation to.

Thanks again!

Stephen
 
#41 ·
TurnTen said:
"If Texaco/Havoline products are not available, an oil meeting the following specification should be used."

(Spec listed - 5W/40, API SL/CF, SJ/CF; ACEA A3)

I wouldn't be surprised if Texaco paid Lotus a fair amout of money to be named in the manual.
Nothing that sinister. Havoline products are common and apparently well respected in the UK, so it's what Lotus uses/tests/specifies.

Although they do seem to indicate the Havoline coolant, they provide the info to what oil to use instead of the Havoline. Havoline is not necessarily the best oil, but it's what Lotus has used and verified. The fact that it's almost impossible to find here in the US, means that we have to find other oil to use. I used Castrol from my last change (the proper viscosity). I use Mobil 1 in my other cars and would readily use it in the Elise if it was in the proper viscosity and specifications.
 
#43 ·
Every store I stopped at had Havoline. None had Havoline synthetic. Ended up also going with Mobil 1 OW-40- same thing availability, and a K&N Oil filter (bought on e-bay, same part # as the lotus one but listed for a 96 Ford mini-van, lol) For the money I'll save by doing it myself, I can add an exhaust or nitrous. It really is asanine what the dealer charges. I like doing this sort of thing myself anyway, just so I know it's done right- and can take the time to inspect and familarize myself with the rest of the vehicle while down there. It's good "bonding" lol.
 
#44 ·
DARBY#33 said:
05elise NM,
What does SME mean and should I be offended? ;)
Subject Matter Expert

Are you offended now?
 
#46 ·
DARBY#33 said:
Thanks...not offended, now educated.

Ok, how about some help on this one?----->:tadts: or TADTS
what do they mean?
Me first, oh, oh, oh, can't wait to educate you, oh boy, oh boy....

They...........All.................Do..................That..................Sir

Ta Da!!!!!!!!!!
 
#47 ·
DARBY#33 said:
Thanks...not offended, now educated.

Ok, how about some help on this one?----->:tadts: or TADTS
what do they mean?

I'm clueless on these computer anagrams, hell I still think a Gig is when a band gets a job to play somewhere.
That ones not a general computer one - more specific to Lotus. It comes from what the service department says when you tell them you have a noise/problem/concern - They All Do That Sir. As in, "I have they really strange sound coming from the front suspension"; "They All Do That Sir" ...
 
#50 ·
Nick said:
OK folks 5/40 Mobile 1 Syn oil is no longer made by Mobile (checked the website)

Can I mix redline with the Mobile 1 as I can only get half the oil out?

thanks

Nick

they still make one, but they call is turbo diesel synth.
It meets all the same specs.

Mobil claims that the 0-40 would be a good choice when I emailed them, but I would want something from Lotus saying it is ok (warranty and all). I know some do use it.

I'm using the turbo diesel Mobil one in mine.
mark
 
#51 · (Edited)
Nick,
Yes you can mix the two. The Amercian Petroleum Institute mandated that all engine oils must be compatable.
BG Products makes an engine oil flush machine which would flush all of the oil and cleaning solution out of the cooler by blowing air thru the system after the flush was completed. Then a motor oil additive called MOA is injected back into these air blown areas to ensure instant lubrication at start up.
I'll check but I dont think any of the Lotus dealers use this machine. If we all asked our dealerships to get one, we could actually get all of the oil out of our systems instead of just 2/3rds. This is why we flush automatic transmissions cause a "drain and fill" doesn't empty the torque converter. We pay ALOT of money for an oil change at the dealership, if they are leaving oxidized oil in our systems the new oil doesn't last as long and is prime to breakdown and start "sludging" up. If they are going to charge us BIG dollars to change our oil, I want ALL of it changed!
Here is a pic of the machine:
More at www.bgprod.com
 

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