Window Rattle Fixed - Page 3 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #41 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-23-2009, 04:12 AM
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Originally Posted by surferpkt View Post
Roll your window all the way down and look at the top of the back rail. It is bolted to a bracket that is fixed to the fiberglass door via epoxy. Mine broke free when enough people closed the door too hard. I had to take the top window gasket off in order to get in there and rough up the area, then re-epoxy the bracket to the door. Sounds like that maybe your issue. My window no longer rattles since the fix, though the glass slides forward and back whenever its rolled down, then wont roll up properly when the door is closed. I believe its the three problematic bolts listed in this thread, but I can't seem to tighten them or loosen them for that matter because I believe they are stripped. I'm not the first owner, but I'll get around to fixing that issue as well one of these days. Good luck,
Can you circle that epoxy area on the window part's diagram?

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post #42 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-30-2009, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKFEVER View Post
Can you circle that epoxy area on the window part's diagram?
The parts diagram does not show this bracket, but here is a rough diagram of where it is and I've highlighted the portion of the bracket which was epoxied to the door. In order to locate this, you need put your window down and remove the window gasket at the top of the door carefully as to not crimp the aluminum strip inside the gasket. Once off you will see in the top left corner the bracket mentioned. I have an early '05 so things might have changed in the later years. Let me know if this helps.


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post #43 of 58 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 09:46 PM
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Thanks for all these info and diagram. I found out why my window rattles when it is down. A missing bolt #19a. Any idea what size screw it is or where I can get/order one?

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post #44 of 58 (permalink) Old 08-28-2010, 01:50 PM
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So, yea. My hand is really sore now. It appears that in Keeper's pics, the window adjustment screws cannot fall in in his model year. On my 05, they can, without any warning, and like people said, can only be put back in from the inside of the door. Great.

To echo what Viper said, here are the directions I followed. With the window up:

1) Remove lining panel (4 top hex screws, 1 front plastic Philips screw under the sill of the front of the lining, slide panel towards rear of car)
2) Remove 3 screws (2 big, 1 small) from door handle plastic silver-ish lining
3) Remove 2 screws (2 big, same size as above) from door handle
4) Push door handle up towards roof with non-dominant hand
5) Reach into door and feel where the hole is. Stick a screwdriver through the hole from the outside so you can find it better. You will feel the panel/rail that the screw pushes against, so you will have to move it towards the outside of the car a bit to get the adjustment screw in.
6)Hold screw carefully between forefinger and middle finger with the head with the adjustment slot towards the inside of the car.
7) Reach into door, loop thumb around panel the screw pushes against, and push to outside of car
8) Using deft dexterity, wiggle the screw into the hole you found earlier
9) Let go of door handle, bracing for pain. Use screwdriver to turn screw counter clockwise back into hole. The angle is tricky, and you will need to push in from the inside of the door
10) Swear, drop the screw a few times, repeat, and you will get it. Once I got the procedure down, it only took like 5 minutes, 2 curses, and, oddly enough, no blood.

The best part is, once you get it back in, you will know it is near its maximum deflection, so you shouldn't have to screw it back in any more

The back screw is real easy to reach, although that one doesn't seem to fall out. B*stard. Some days, I think my Elise just wants to mess with me...

J

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post #45 of 58 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surferpkt View Post
Roll your window all the way down and look at the top of the back rail. It is bolted to a bracket that is fixed to the fiberglass door via epoxy. Mine broke free when enough people closed the door too hard. I had to take the top window gasket off in order to get in there and rough up the area, then re-epoxy the bracket to the door. Sounds like that maybe your issue. My window no longer rattles since the fix, though the glass slides forward and back whenever its rolled down, then wont roll up properly when the door is closed. I believe its the three problematic bolts listed in this thread, but I can't seem to tighten them or loosen them for that matter because I believe they are stripped. I'm not the first owner, but I'll get around to fixing that issue as well one of these days. Good luck,
Hi surferpkt -
Bringing back to life an old thread here.... I realized yesterday that my window bracket came loose. Do you remember what kind of epoxy worked well to glue it back together? Just ordinary 2-part epoxy?

-- thx
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post #46 of 58 (permalink) Old 08-19-2011, 05:16 PM
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Another year later, this is still helping some noobs like me. Did it on my 08 and worked.
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post #47 of 58 (permalink) Old 09-03-2011, 02:41 AM
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Finally fixed my door rattle

Well, to start off, if forgot to start with reading this thread, so I lost the famous front screw in the door When I finally got to open the door the screw had fallen out of a hole in the bottom of the door

Anyways, now that the door was open I was able to find my rattle. The rattle came from the rod for the interior release mechanism vibrating against the rail it sits in. I think the entire rail is there to avoid the rod vibrating and creating noise by hitting other things. However, the foam layer at the end of the rail to ensure the rod wouldn't vibrate wasn't working sufficiently. I fixed this at least temporarily by adding some more self-adhesive foam.

I'll post a pic since I can't find the parts in the exploded pictures.

If you wonder if you're having the same rattle it's easy to test. Once you close the door there should be a metallic rattle afterwards. Open the door and hit it gently several times, if the rattle is there but disappears / changes by pulling the hand lever from inside of the door, then you know you have a reason to pop the door and fix it.

I also found a small vibrating noise coming from the button to the electric window. By applying a small amount of silicone spray on the button, the noise dissapeared.

Closing the door now sounds a lot better than before
Hope this helps for some of you guys!
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Last edited by Alek; 09-03-2011 at 11:15 AM.
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post #48 of 58 (permalink) Old 09-09-2012, 02:22 PM
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Finally fixed my drivers side door rattle too! The top screw on the leading rail had backed itself out and was allowing enough play for the rail to rattle when the window was down. It would also rattle over every single little bump during driving, very annoying.

The screw im talking about is #19 in the diagram above.
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post #49 of 58 (permalink) Old 05-09-2013, 04:35 AM
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OK, this is a new '06 to me (just got it after my '05 was totaled) and not only do i have significant rattle, I also have both windows not going up all the way correctly. The drivers side needs a little help to go up all the way, but the passenger simply will not do so, the rear keeps going but the fronts sems to get stuck. Am I alone with this issue? The door panel comes off this weekend and I hope to get a good look and fix this along with the rattles!

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post #50 of 58 (permalink) Old 07-07-2013, 09:27 PM
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Subscribed so that I can find this thread again later easily.

Checked my upper rails (the #19 screw in the diagrams) and those seemed to be tight. Will tackle the others later. My rattle is pretty minor and only when the window is fully down so no urgency.

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post #51 of 58 (permalink) Old 09-08-2013, 08:15 AM
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Ouch.....my aching hand!!!

Well, I wished I had found this thread before I started turning the lower frontward adjustment screw clockwise in order to fix a driver's side window rattle. As you can guess, the damn thing fell right into the door.

I found the thread when I came looking for a way to fix my mess. As previously described, I took the door panel off and detached inner door handle from door in order to get my big hand into the door cavity. Needless to say that this is extremely painful; therefore, concentration on the task is required in order to block the pain. I actually blasted some TOOL on the stereo system to psych me up while I was at it.

After several minutes of frigging with the adjustment screw, I was able to thread it into the door hole while turning counter clockwise with the screw driver. This part was done with the window up.

My biggest challenge was getting the other end of the adjustment screw into the rail hole. In my case, the rail had completely fallen into the door cavity and I had to work it into the proper location near the upper window door slot, then line up the hole with the adjustment screw. I achieved this with the window halfway down. This was also the most painful part as the sharp steel edges of the inner door handle kept biting into my wrist.

All in all, it took me a little over an hour to get this done. I tested the window repeatedly and all seems to work and looks solid. The ultimate test as to whether I succeeded will be when I drive down our city's bumpy streets. This will need to wait until tomorrow as it's pissing rain today.

I've inserted a few pics that I took of the assembly. I appreciate all of the posts on LT as I'm learning quite a bit about my 2006 Elise; which, I've only owned for a couple of months.

Mike
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post #52 of 58 (permalink) Old 09-08-2013, 09:39 PM
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Monsoon, you just convinced me not to f*ck with this.

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post #53 of 58 (permalink) Old 09-09-2013, 03:26 AM
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ahhh... but this winter season...we fix many things...haha. This is one of them for me. Still have until November 30th on the Elise hibernation/restoration countdown. Praying for a late winter.

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post #54 of 58 (permalink) Old 01-28-2014, 06:49 PM
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Love this thread. Why did I buy this car?

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post #55 of 58 (permalink) Old 10-31-2015, 09:46 AM
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post #56 of 58 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 12:09 PM
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The guide blocks had worn out on mine, got told I had to buy the whole window assembly. I've had some blocks made if any one needs some for a small fee.
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post #57 of 58 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 12:31 PM
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The guide blocks had worn out on mine, got told I had to buy the whole window assembly. I've had some blocks made if any one needs some for a small fee.
Yes, I need one please.
Mine is broken and I've literally gone through and done every other fix.

BTW any thoughts on how to get the window back into the door without scratching the crap out of the paint?? Luckily the car is going back in for paint so it's not a huge deal but getting those threaded rods on the bottom of the window to clear the opening is a tight fit
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post #58 of 58 (permalink) Old 09-04-2018, 04:35 PM
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There can be many sources of rattles and buzzes inside of a Lotus door. I found a piece of tape that had body overspray on it that was causing a rattle. I also found a plastic retainer clip that was loose in the bottom of the door. removing both of these fixed the noises.
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