1972 Twin Cam - Nut & Bolt Rebuild - Page 2 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #21 of 112 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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post #22 of 112 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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post #23 of 112 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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post #24 of 112 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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post #25 of 112 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 06:05 PM
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In spite of the rusty stuff on the back of the engine block, it looks pretty good! You have a very solid engine to build from.

Are you planning to do any modifications?
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post #26 of 112 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Engine 05 June 2013

Hi BDA - I'm rebuilding the engine completely as a standard unit. There's been no expense spared, but nothing that doesn't honour the original. Maybe in the future there will be scope for electronic ignition.

The engine work has been fun over the last week or so. I completed the cleaning, I have removed the glaze from the cylinders, fitted new piston rings, put the pistons back with new bearings.

Regarding the head, fully dismantled it, cleaned it, ground the valves and rebuilt. I can honestly say the collets were the most fiddly things to put back!

I re-shimmed the valves to obtain the right clearances. The head is ready for putting back on this weekend. I have also got the gearbox in pieces in my garage now, because the input shaft had come loose, but all that's for next week
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post #27 of 112 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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post #28 of 112 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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post #29 of 112 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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post #30 of 112 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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post #31 of 112 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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post #32 of 112 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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post #33 of 112 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pto View Post
Engine 05 June 2013

Hi BDA - I'm rebuilding the engine completely as a standard unit. There's been no expense spared, but nothing that doesn't honour the original. Maybe in the future there will be scope for electronic ignition.

The engine work has been fun over the last week or so. I completed the cleaning, I have removed the glaze from the cylinders, fitted new piston rings, put the pistons back with new bearings.

Regarding the head, fully dismantled it, cleaned it, ground the valves and rebuilt. I can honestly say the collets were the most fiddly things to put back!

I re-shimmed the valves to obtain the right clearances. The head is ready for putting back on this weekend. I have also got the gearbox in pieces in my garage now, because the input shaft had come loose, but all that's for next week
You certainly look like you know what you're doing.

But, I'm with BDA on this. I strongly suggest some elec ignition. That way, one need only lube the distributor (vs working under the carbs to change/adjust points; fiddle with timing).

2nd, I've found with old t-c distributors (and posted about it) that when they get really hot, the mechanical advance curve goes away.

This will not show up on a distributor machine: no heat and driven differently than in situ.

I bought a new Lucas breakerless distributor, which was quite good.

You need an advance timing light to check the curve, as I'm sure you know.

I know what you mean about "honour(ing) the original" But can assure you that 170 hp was much more fun than the 110 or so stock. (I do not believe the 126 hp Big Valve claims, btw, having driven a couple of those.)

Just my 1.5 cents.

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post #34 of 112 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 03:32 PM
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Nice work...but it looks like (from the photos) that you used copper tubing for the brake lines! If you did, remove and replace them with steel brake lines...stainless steel is good too. Copper work hardens and will crack on you in just a couple of years. Very dangerous! If they are steel or stainless steel, I take it all back. But they do look like they could be copper from the photos. Good luck though. I have been drooling over the Europas for many years.
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post #35 of 112 (permalink) Old 06-07-2013, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by glb View Post
You certainly look like you know what you're doing.

But, I'm with BDA on this. I strongly suggest some elec ignition. That way, one need only lube the distributor (vs working under the carbs to change/adjust points; fiddle with timing).

2nd, I've found with old t-c distributors (and posted about it) that when they get really hot, the mechanical advance curve goes away.

This will not show up on a distributor machine: no heat and driven differently than in situ.

I bought a new Lucas breakerless distributor, which was quite good.

You need an advance timing light to check the curve, as I'm sure you know.

I know what you mean about "honour(ing) the original" But can assure you that 170 hp was much more fun than the 110 or so stock. (I do not believe the 126 hp Big Valve claims, btw, having driven a couple of those.)

Just my 1.5 cents.

I'll do electronic ignition - as said earlier I had considered it. I put it on a Triumph Spitfire (though this was using an EDIS4 and megajolt kit) to good effect. I can't see a good way of fitting it to this though, unfortunately.

Would you recommend the Lucas?

P.S. Very interested in what mods you did to achieve 170!

and <@¿@> - Cupronickel....
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post #36 of 112 (permalink) Old 06-07-2013, 01:12 PM
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<@¿@> - Cupronickel....
Wow! Cool stuff!
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post #37 of 112 (permalink) Old 06-14-2013, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Just before I start uploading pictures from the past week and a half, I thought this picture may interest some...

This is the input shaft from the gearbox. Its fault is that it is no longer stuck solid to the boss. It slides on and off very easy. The teeth seem fine. Is it a common fault? What causes it?
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post #38 of 112 (permalink) Old 06-14-2013, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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14th June 2013

This week I covered repairing the faults with the gearbox. The gearbox leaked copious amounts of oil from the seam. Secondly, as shown in the last post, the input shaft was also broken.

I sourced a second hand gearbox off an old Renault, and stole the input shaft off that!

Completing the repair was a full complement of new seals and a damned good cleaning. The cleaning let me tell you, was a nightmare.

After the gearbox repair it was painted and left to one side whilst I tackled the clutch. The clutch is actually the same clutch as an MG B. I luckily got a new spring and bearing off eBay very cheap.

The two then got bolted together and mounted to the chassis. New engine mounts were used. That was a two man job!

The rocker cover was a pain. I spent several nights stripping off the old paint (which you can't rush), I then painted it all black and sanded off the highlights.

The next step is the get it stood on all four wheels and watch it roll. I can't wait!

Jack
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post #39 of 112 (permalink) Old 06-14-2013, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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post #40 of 112 (permalink) Old 06-14-2013, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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