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post #21 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-03-2011, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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Here's a shot from a 1972 TwinCam factory brochure that shows the "oatmeal" interior on a right-hand drive car. Notice that it shows the center console arm-rest pad in oatmeal, not black. I also noticed there wasn't a speaker on the driver's door; only the passenger door for some reason. On the left image you can see the sun visors are in oatmeal too. I think I'm going to follow this scheme except use the same fabric for the seat centers on the arm-rest and visors.
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I'm looking at possibly a Retro Sounds radio for the dash and I'll see what speakers they have that are small and would fit the door panels. Fortunately Retro Sounds is based in Chino which is about a 20 minute drive for me so I'll drive the car there when ready and see what they have that can give it the retro look but with modern radio features.
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post #22 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-05-2011, 06:46 PM
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I looked into the Retro Sounds radio and my problem with it is digital display and tuning. To me it's necessary to maintain an analog tuning and appearance to be at all true to the period. From what I can tell stereo was not common over there at that time, radios were monaural.

I'd want to get a time period proper stereo radio (mine has a Pioneer) and have its internals upgraded to modern. There are places and people that do this, but expect several hundred bucks But you get connectivity per a cable to your phone or mp3.

Anyone can make something complicated. It takes genius to make it simple. Einstein.
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post #23 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-05-2011, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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If you find or know of a place that can make a modern radio that looks like the original Phillips I would be very interested in that info.
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post #24 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-05-2011, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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I was able to find a reference to the radio; it was a Philips Jeep Luxus 22RN314. Here's a snapshot I took of the page and a link to it:

Jeep Luxus 22RN314 Radio Philips Radios -

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post #25 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-07-2011, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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The seatbelts in my car are old, faded and worn. I've found a place

RetroBelt USA - 1 Passenger 3 Point "Euro" Style belt with 13" cable buckle receiver

that makes and sells new ones done in the old styles:
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Seems a little pricey for what it is but considering how important a safety belt is I guess it's worth it. They'll certainly look good when I get the interior redone.
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post #26 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-07-2011, 06:38 PM
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I got a set of modern generic replacement belts but they didn't fit in my car. Besides, they were black and I refinished my interior in a tan-ish color. I had my belts rebuilt by Snake Oyl (Ssnake Oyl Products). They re webbed my buckle and retractor with a web that matched my interior. If your retractors are shot, they can't help you. They can rebuild "common" seat belt retractors, but since there is nothing common Europa retractors, they won't fool with them.
I was really happy with the result. You might want to look into them.
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post #27 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-07-2011, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I got a set of modern generic replacement belts but they didn't fit in my car. Besides, they were black and I refinished my interior in a tan-ish color. I had my belts rebuilt by Snake Oyl (Ssnake Oyl Products). They re webbed my buckle and retractor with a web that matched my interior. If your retractors are shot, they can't help you. They can rebuild "common" seat belt retractors, but since there is nothing common Europa retractors, they won't fool with them.
I was really happy with the result. You might want to look into them.
Nice info and link, thanks! How much did it cost to get your belts rebuilt?
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post #28 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-08-2011, 06:43 PM
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Hi Europafan,

I had mine done in 1998 or 1999 and unfortunately I didn't save the receipt. For me, it seemed the only option available since my belts weren't usable and the new generic ones didn't fit (oddly enough, I got them from Banks - I don't know if Richard got them to work before, but if he did, it must be because he's better than I am! ).

I was going to guess, but I think it makes much more sense to give them a call. Like I say, if you have your retractors and they are in good shape, they can fix you up with any webbing. I was VERY pleased with their service!!
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post #29 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-10-2011, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Making some progress. I took the air cleaner canister which was rusted and removed the rust, cleaned it, primed and painted it gloss black. I also cleaned the plastic canister that fits over the Stromberg carbs, and I have a new connector duct hose to join it to the air cleaner canister. Just need an air filter! Found a couple of sites online that sell equivalents to the old AC A2047 which the canister says should be the replacement filter.

As you can see from the pics, my canister has a hole in the top. I have no idea what that's supposed to be for as it's not in the manual or anywhere that I can find. Anybody now what that's for, or is there a rubber plug that's supposed to go in there?

Here's some "before and after" pics that show the condition of the canister:

The lid and body all rusted inside:
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The body cleaned and primered:
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The lid and body painted gloss black:
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Right now I'm working on the lower links in the back; the bushings are replaced on the driver side link and I'm about to re-install that and put on the new SPAX shock and spring for that side. Then it's on to the link/shock/spring for the other side, and removing and replacing the exhaust system. Then on to the front of the car.

Progress is slow but it's just been so hot this past week I can only work a few hours in the late evening, but at least it's coming along.
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post #30 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-11-2011, 05:15 AM Thread Starter
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Last night while attempting to re-install the lower link on the driver's side rear suspension, no matter what I did it just would not align; the bolt just wouldn't line up and go through the bearing housing. For some odd reason the housing was canted upward, like it was rotated. After struggling with it awhile I finally looked towards the body and noticed this:
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It was one of those "holy crap" moments. I could see into the cracked area and it was oxidized and dirty; this had been this way long before I got the car. Looks like somebody at some time had tried to jack up the car either with a scissors jack or lift and unfortunately bent the crud out of the radius arm. And to think I drove the car in this condition from Seattle to southern California!

Needless to say it has to be replaced; and yes I immediately looked at the radius arm on the passenger side and it's straight with no damage. I didn't bother looking any further cause it was getting late but can this be replaced without having to remove the body?
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post #31 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-11-2011, 08:56 AM
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I'm not an expert on this one but on mine I only see one bolt that goes all the way to the end of the arm and attaches to the chassis, so I don't think you will have to remove the body. Just get under your car and follow it, it is kind of hidden though. Hope these pictures help.
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post #32 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-11-2011, 11:12 AM
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The aft end is bolted to the rear upright/axle. You'll have to pull the half-shaft to get it off the car.

I would think the car would have exhibited some odd handling characteristics, the rear toe must have surely been affected.
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post #33 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-11-2011, 01:34 PM
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Just need an air filter! Found a couple of sites online that sell equivalents to the old AC A2047 which the canister says should be the replacement filter.

As you can see from the pics, my canister has a hole in the top. I have no idea what that's supposed to be for as it's not in the manual or anywhere that I can find. Anybody now what that's for, or is there a rubber plug that's supposed to go in there?
I have the same filter arrangment on my Elan only the hole points down. I've never seen a plug on one but then they are uncommon. Most people seem to like the look of individual filters even though they pull in hot air and reduce power.

If you have any questions contact Ray (RD Engineering in PA) he will be happy to help you out and sell you the parts.
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post #34 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-12-2011, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not an expert on this one but on mine I only see one bolt that goes all the way to the end of the arm and attaches to the chassis, so I don't think you will have to remove the body. Just get under your car and follow it, it is kind of hidden though. Hope these pictures help.
Thanks! Those pics do help.

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Originally Posted by thruthefence View Post
The aft end is bolted to the rear upright/axle. You'll have to pull the half-shaft to get it off the car.

I would think the car would have exhibited some odd handling characteristics, the rear toe must have surely been affected.
Ok that's good to know. Yes it did when I think back on it. It seemed to turn easier on a right turn than a left turn, and the car did not want to go in a straight line by itself. If I had known about the radius arm I would have had the car shipped to me instead of driving it for 2 days and 1200 miles to get it home. I don't think the guy I bought it from knew about it; he had purchased the car in January as a fixer-upper but wound up not having the space, time or funds to do it so he sold it; didn't really drive it hardly at all.

I put in an order to Banks Europa for a radius arm; just waiting for them to confirm they have it and are shipping it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeanG View Post
I have the same filter arrangment on my Elan only the hole points down. I've never seen a plug on one but then they are uncommon. Most people seem to like the look of individual filters even though they pull in hot air and reduce power.

If you have any questions contact Ray (RD Engineering in PA) he will be happy to help you out and sell you the parts.
These canisters must have been originally for some other car and that hole would have been for a crankcase breather filter or something along those lines. I'll just find a rubber cap for it.

Yeah I've looked at the aftermarket filters but I'm with you; they're going to pull in hot air and look like they'd be exposed to the elements more. When I looked inside the plastic carb cover/funnel I was not impressed with the amount of "obstacles" inside to air flow; 6 tubes for the bolts to the carbs, and the inside was very rough, not smooth or finished at all. The farthest carb would have a tough time pulling air through all that compared to the one closest to the air entrance, which is also going to be pulling most of the air to begin with.

I'm now seriously considering fabricating a better design for the part that fits on the carbs, but still use the stock canister and air filter.
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post #35 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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Got a bit more done tonight. Got the new bushings in the lower link for the passenger side; I had painted the lower link aluminum/silver since I didn't want it black and the bare metal was discolored so spraying it with clear would not have looked good. Got the link installed with the new Spax shock and spring. Amazing how much easier it is when the radius arm isn't bent.
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Cut out and removed the rusted muffler. Sprayed the rusted header bolts with WD40 and I'm going to let them soak; I'll work on removing the headers in the next few nights but here's a pic how they looked before I sprayed them. That's going to be a fun night lol.
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Once I get the headers out I'm going to clean the engine. It's a crappy blue color which I don't like but I don't really feel like getting into the hassle of repainting it properly. The valve cover has a slight leak and I have to remove it anyways to replace the gasket so I am going to strip the old paint off and repaint it. But then I'll have a beautiful, brand-new looking valve cover sitting on an ugly pool-cue-chalk blue engine. Decisions decisions.
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post #36 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 05:47 AM
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Some friendly advice; get yourself some good quality penetrant, "Kroil" or "PB Blaster" for those corroded fasteners. WD40, while better then nothing is not the best choice. You will need it during this project.
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post #37 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-13-2011, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
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Some friendly advice; get yourself some good quality penetrant, "Kroil" or "PB Blaster" for those corroded fasteners. WD40, while better then nothing is not the best choice. You will need it during this project.
Thanks for the tip!
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post #38 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-14-2011, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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Well today I removed the headers and to my surprise, the nuts were on there so lightly I could have almost removed them with my fingers! Now I have to figure out how to get the headers out; do you have to remove the motor mount or is there a special trick to removing them?

While looking things over and doing small general cleaning, I noticed a hole in the engine block on the passenger side, just below the valve cover. After studying the drawings in the workshop manual I figured out this must be the crankcase breather hole. There's a corresponding empty hole on the plastic canister that fits over the carburetors too. Contacted Ray at R.D. and he has the grommets that are supposed to go in those holes so I'm getting those to at least be able to reconnect this. The hole has just been open to the air...water, mud, almost anything could have gone in there.

I had assumed previous owners had at least done the basics for things like tightening bolts, nuts and so on, but now I'm going to check all bolts, assemblies, etc. and assume nothing.
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post #39 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Having removed the headers I noticed the clutch cable is rubbing on the bottom of the clutch bracket attached to the side of the trans. Is this normal? I haven't been able to find a picture of this area of another Europa to see if the cable is supposed to be routed some other way or not.

Here's a couple of pics of what it looks like; the first is from above looking down.
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Next is looking at the bottom where you can see the cable rubbing directly on the bottom of the bracket.
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Is there supposed to be a roller or channel guide of some kind under there?
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post #40 of 212 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 10:34 PM
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Look at this picture. the 5th one down. It looks correct to me. http://members.cox.net/lotuseuropa/
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