The Project Begins - Page 5 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #81 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-06-2011, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
EuropaFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDA View Post
Welcome to the world of Lotus aftermarket parts (pretty much the only kind there is for Europas)!

Definitely fit first, then finish, then install is a good plan but not always possible. It's good to get in the habit of trying to do that. I had to learn the VERY HARD way (over and over)!

I agree with thruthefence concerning the header mounting nut. I would try really hard to get that last nut on. Would a longer stud help? Maybe as a last resort you can have somebody counter bore the hole to give you more threads.

In spite of your drama, it sounds as though you're making good progress. Keep it up and post pictures!
The problem is the length of the stud is too long and the end is so close to the bend of the header pipe there isn't room to even get a washer to fit over the end of the stud. After thinking about it some more I think if I loosen and move the headers outward so that less of the stud is sticking out, that should give me enough room to get a washer and nut over the end of the stud, and if I can do that I should be able to tighten as the header moves towards the engine. Of course it has to be the one stud I can't see and is the most difficult to reach.....

On a more positive note, here's a quick couple of pics of the new radius arm installed.

The first is kind of hard to see but this is the end of the radius arm with the new washers and spacer connecting it to the frame.
Name:  IMG_0720.JPG
Views: 710
Size:  114.5 KB

Next is the reassembled spindle on the radius arm with brake line and e-brake cable attached. I haven't put the hub on it yet.
Name:  IMG_0719.JPG
Views: 866
Size:  244.8 KB

Today I'm going to see if I can get that last header nut on, get the lower link and Spax unit on, and get the hub assembled and the wheel back on. If I can get all that done and the car back on the ground it'll be a successful day.
EuropaFan is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #82 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 06:58 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
EuropaFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 138
Ran into a snag yesterday. For some reason the last bushing I was trying to install in the lower link decided it did not want to go in right and went weird on me. The first bushing went right in like it was supposed to. I emailed and called Ray at R.D. but he's not open on weekends so I'm stalled on completing the suspension in the rear of the car until he can send a replacement.

This shows what happened:
Name:  IMG_0723.JPG
Views: 630
Size:  86.7 KB

Name:  IMG_0724.JPG
Views: 622
Size:  96.9 KB

The other end which I did first went right in without any problems:
Name:  IMG_0729.jpg
Views: 639
Size:  98.8 KB

I put the same poly lube on the bushing and in the hole just like the first one but it appears the bushing wasn't properly bonded to the internal tube on one side. I don't know... at any rate I was so disgusted I decided to take a break and do some other things around the house. If Ray can 2-day one to me on Monday I should be able to finish things up on Wednesday. Then it's on the ground, bleed the brakes...get the permanent registration.
EuropaFan is offline  
post #83 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 07:19 AM
Registered User
 
DeanG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,023
About that stud. Sometimes you have to switch to a bolt or customize the stud. This isn't a Europa thing. I had to do that on my Elan.
DeanG is offline  
 
post #84 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
EuropaFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeanG View Post
About that stud. Sometimes you have to switch to a bolt or customize the stud. This isn't a Europa thing. I had to do that on my Elan.
I think if I slide the headers outward so that just the tip of the stud shows, I should be able to put the washer and nut on it, then start pushing the headers towards the engine until the threads on the nut engage the stud. Once I can get the nut started I can tighten that one first until the headers are seated. The rest are not a problem. I'll give that a try first.

Thanks for the feedback!
EuropaFan is offline  
post #85 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
EuropaFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 138
Making some progress....

Just to make myself feel better I looked at a pic of what the engine compartment looked like when I started and took a couple of pics of how it looks now. Definitely looks better.

Here's how it looked after I got it home.
Name:  IMG_0624.JPG
Views: 630
Size:  388.3 KB

Here's how it looks now.
Name:  IMG_0734.JPG
Views: 639
Size:  366.5 KB

Before.
Name:  IMG_0625.JPG
Views: 624
Size:  421.6 KB

Now.
Name:  IMG_0735.JPG
Views: 678
Size:  399.2 KB

Just cleaning things definitely makes it look better. I'm going to strip the paint off the valve cover and paint it black with the raised areas in aluminum.
EuropaFan is offline  
post #86 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-07-2011, 08:35 AM
BDA
Registered User
 
BDA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 249
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeanG View Post
About that stud. Sometimes you have to switch to a bolt or customize the stud. This isn't a Europa thing. I had to do that on my Elan.
Maybe it's a Lotus thing?!
Don't know what I was thinking about when I suggested counter boring!
I think Europafan has the right idea. It may also require shorter nuts, too. thruthefence suggested jet nuts earlier. They are about as small as you can get so they work well in tight places. I use them on my car. I had worried that the heat might relax the nuts so they wouldn't lock so well, but that seems not to be the case.
You'll just have to walk the nut down as you get the headers closer to the head.
BDA is offline  
post #87 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-08-2011, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
EuropaFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 138
Ray from R.D. has my replacement bushing on the way. While waiting for that I decided to tackle getting the airbox repaired. The tube end had split apart, and there were various holes and cracks near that end. Someone at some time had attempted to make some repairs as I could see black epoxy in some of the areas but it needed a genuine repair. The hole for the crankcase breather tube had been torn out and a grommet wouldn't even stay in there so I had to reconstruct a hole.

I used Quik Steel which is a clay-like substance you mix together and then you have a few minutes to apply it before it starts to harden. When cured, you can file it, sand it, drill it... works well. Bonds to just about anything and resists fuel, oil, grease; can even be applied underwater as it's self-curing.

I reconstructed the hole by taking a 5/8" chromed deep socket and applying silicone grease around the outside so the putty wouldn't stick to it, then I put it in position and pressed the putty all around it. I gently turned the socket a slight bit every 15 seconds or so until the putty had hardened enough that I could remove the socket. Presto! Crankcase breather hole.

When I get everything patched and sanded, I'm going to prime and paint the outside of the airbox gloss black to match the air cleaner can.

Here's a shot of the new breather hole; I still have to smooth it down.
Name:  IMG_0736.JPG
Views: 676
Size:  187.6 KB

This is the bottom of the inlet tube which shows how badly cracked it is. I've started the repair on the box end to stabilize the long crack before finishing the tube area. You can see the black epoxy where someone had attempted a repair.
Name:  IMG_0737.JPG
Views: 632
Size:  196.4 KB

Here's another view of that same end.
Name:  IMG_0742.JPG
Views: 618
Size:  141.9 KB

This is the top of the tube with the crack filled, patched and mostly smoothed down.
Name:  IMG_0739.JPG
Views: 716
Size:  184.1 KB
EuropaFan is offline  
post #88 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-10-2011, 06:42 PM
BDA
Registered User
 
BDA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 249
Nice work, EuropaFan. I know fixing old parts can be satisfying, but if you want one of those in very good condition, let me know. I have one I'd sell you.
BDA is offline  
post #89 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-10-2011, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
EuropaFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDA View Post
Nice work, EuropaFan. I know fixing old parts can be satisfying, but if you want one of those in very good condition, let me know. I have one I'd sell you.
Sent you a PM.
EuropaFan is offline  
post #90 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-10-2011, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
EuropaFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 138
Yes boys and girls...the pic below shows the Lotus of Europa on the ground on it's own wheels again!!!

Ray from R.D. got me the bushing I needed and it arrived today. It went in without problems and I was able to put the rear suspension together again. Had difficulties getting the hub on; I think my torque wrench isn't working right. I tightened it down as far as it would go and the end of the stub axle thread was flush with the top of the hub nut just like the other side so I'm assuming it's good to go.

I was too tired tonight to go any further but tomorrow should be new battery, brake fluid and bleed the brakes, and see if she'll start. If all goes well then I'll drive it to get the permanent registration.

Here it is on the ground again!
Name:  IMG_0760.JPG
Views: 600
Size:  247.4 KB

Here's the rear suspension after reassembly but before I put the hub on.
Name:  IMG_0748.JPG
Views: 820
Size:  265.3 KB

Here's a couple of shots that illustrate the issue with the one header stud not having enough room for the nut to go on. I stuck my camera under there and took a couple of pictures so I could see just what I was dealing with and it was immediately apparent why clearance was so tight. Whoever put these headers together didn't make the pipes a clean 90 degree angle out of the flange. I don't know if a washer is going to fit but a nut might. I'll try to fix that in the next few days. Right now I just need it to run good enough to get to AAA so I can get my permanent registration before my temporary expires.
Name:  IMG_0755.jpg
Views: 595
Size:  180.3 KB

Name:  IMG_0756.JPG
Views: 591
Size:  105.0 KB

Last edited by EuropaFan; 08-11-2011 at 10:36 PM.
EuropaFan is offline  
post #91 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-11-2011, 11:47 AM
Registered User
 
DeanG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,023
Your car is looking good. You are making good progress. My Elan project is now a 4X$ and 3Xmonths larger than planned.
DeanG is offline  
post #92 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-11-2011, 03:42 PM
Registered User
 
thruthefence's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 146
"so I'm assuming it's good to go"

Be sure & go back & check the torque on the big nut after a bit of driving. The bearing & spacer stack tightness is one of the most problematic areas on these cars.

You don't want to see a wheel passing you one of these days.

I'd like to compliment you on your photography, however. Keep 'em coming!
thruthefence is offline  
post #93 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-11-2011, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
EuropaFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeanG View Post
Your car is looking good. You are making good progress. My Elan project is now a 4X$ and 3Xmonths larger than planned.
Yeah that's about what I'm into mine for now; the state of commifornia gouged me for just over $1k for tax and registration. I'd already spent about $3k for parts and tires. And I still have to get it painted and the interior redone so I have a few more $k to go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thruthefence View Post
"so I'm assuming it's good to go"

Be sure & go back & check the torque on the big nut after a bit of driving. The bearing & spacer stack tightness is one of the most problematic areas on these cars.

You don't want to see a wheel passing you one of these days.

I'd like to compliment you on your photography, however. Keep 'em coming!
Good advice, thanks! I have a great little point-and-shoot camera; it's a Canon S90. Takes the clearest, sharpest pictures of any camera I've ever had.

Here's a couple more pics. I got the Braille battery installed; went in easily and works just fine. It's the 11 pounder and it's 15 lbs lighter than the one that was in there. I need to get the battery heat shield which is missing; or fabricate one. Still I was quite happy with the way the battery went in.

You have to see these batteries in person to appreciate how small they are.
Name:  IMG_0762.JPG
Views: 597
Size:  323.5 KB

Here's an overhead view leaning over from the driver's side. You can see how little room these things take up, and they're great batteries! A little more expensive than a regular OEM type battery but well worth it.
Name:  IMG_0765.JPG
Views: 660
Size:  377.4 KB

I want to get better quality battery cable connectors; the ones that are in there are beat-up and junky looking. Now I just need to run out to the store and get some brake fluid so I can bleed the brakes. Slowly but surely it's getting there!
EuropaFan is offline  
post #94 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-11-2011, 06:00 PM
BDA
Registered User
 
BDA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 249
Pretty neat battery! It looks like a motorcycle battery.
BDA is offline  
post #95 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-11-2011, 06:30 PM
glb
Registered User
 
glb's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chester, NJ
Posts: 10,978
notes on twin-cams

1. The old distributors lose their advance curves when hot. You cannot check this on a distributor machine (not hot, not driven by 3rd cam). This requires an advance timing light.

I cleaned & rebuilt my old unit...still lost curve when really hot. Bought a new (gasp) Lucas magnetic p/u unit.


2. if you are careful, you can get the cam cover to:

a. Not leak

b. Be removable w/o a new gasket each time.

details avail upon request

05 elise (BOE Rev300 supercharged, SSRs, shift tower mods, Multivex; HID hi/low beams); 05 Corolla XRS

Driving Tips-https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f100...art-1-a-49665/
Moss Emergency Line-https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f100...cy-line-36631/
Safely Piercing Wires-https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f129...esting-106438/
Bleeding Brakes- https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f101...-brakes-241138
glb is offline  
post #96 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-11-2011, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
EuropaFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by glb View Post
notes on twin-cams

1. The old distributors lose their advance curves when hot. You cannot check this on a distributor machine (not hot, not driven by 3rd cam). This requires an advance timing light.

I cleaned & rebuilt my old unit...still lost curve when really hot. Bought a new (gasp) Lucas magnetic p/u unit.


2. if you are careful, you can get the cam cover to:

a. Not leak

b. Be removable w/o a new gasket each time.

details avail upon request
Consider yourself requested lol.

How did the magnetic p/u unit work out? I have to look into something like that. Got any links for it?
EuropaFan is offline  
post #97 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-12-2011, 07:39 AM
glb
Registered User
 
glb's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chester, NJ
Posts: 10,978
Quote:
Originally Posted by EuropaFan View Post
Consider yourself requested lol.

How did the magnetic p/u unit work out? I have to look into something like that. Got any links for it?
No links for distributor, sorry.

Cam Cover Gasket:

From Miles Wilkins wonderful book on the T-C, which many of you should get.

Plus, simple mod from me. Book is somewhere here, so this is from memory.


The gasket is cork, which compresses. The trick is to tighten it very little at a time, with a 1/4" drive socket, i.e. don't compress it all at once else it will squish out...and leak.

You must wait 30 minutes or so between tightening. I think he says to do this 3-4 times. Remember, very little at a time.

What I did was use hi-temp rtv on both sides of gasket, but very little, just enough to cover the surfaces.

Then, I put oil on the cyl head, so the rtv wouldn't adhere to it. This made it removable/reusable. (You want the gasket to adhere to the cam cover; easier to clean off when the time arises.)


Of course, if the cam cover is uneven, it should be trued. I think I put mine on a flat, heavy piece of glass with emery paper on the glass.

If I come across the book, doubtful, I could revise this if I'm wrong.

05 elise (BOE Rev300 supercharged, SSRs, shift tower mods, Multivex; HID hi/low beams); 05 Corolla XRS

Driving Tips-https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f100...art-1-a-49665/
Moss Emergency Line-https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f100...cy-line-36631/
Safely Piercing Wires-https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f129...esting-106438/
Bleeding Brakes- https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f101...-brakes-241138
glb is offline  
post #98 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-12-2011, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
EuropaFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 138
Quote:
Originally Posted by glb View Post
No links for distributor, sorry.

Cam Cover Gasket:

From Miles Wilkins wonderful book on the T-C, which many of you should get.

Plus, simple mod from me. Book is somewhere here, so this is from memory.


The gasket is cork, which compresses. The trick is to tighten it very little at a time, with a 1/4" drive socket, i.e. don't compress it all at once else it will squish out...and leak.

You must wait 30 minutes or so between tightening. I think he says to do this 3-4 times. Remember, very little at a time.

What I did was use hi-temp rtv on both sides of gasket, but very little, just enough to cover the surfaces.

Then, I put oil on the cyl head, so the rtv wouldn't adhere to it. This made it removable/reusable. (You want the gasket to adhere to the cam cover; easier to clean off when the time arises.)


Of course, if the cam cover is uneven, it should be trued. I think I put mine on a flat, heavy piece of glass with emery paper on the glass.

If I come across the book, doubtful, I could revise this if I'm wrong.
Very interesting! I'll give it a go; I've got nothing to lose but a cork gasket and some time. Worth giving it a try.

I'll see if I can track down one of those books too.

Thanks!
EuropaFan is offline  
post #99 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
EuropaFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 138
Those books are stupidly expensive! It's no longer in print and used they go for anywhere from about $210 to $400! Too bad there isn't a downloadable pdf version.
EuropaFan is offline  
post #100 of 212 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
EuropaFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 138
Got the brakes working properly and bled. There was basically no fluid in the rear lines. I went through over half a can of fluid by the time I got everything the way it's supposed to be. I have a vacuum bleeder and when I opened the valve on the fronts the fluid started flowing immediately. You're supposed to pump about 10-15 times to get the fluid pulled through. On the rear brakes, I pumped 10-15 times and nothing came out. I had to pump over 50 times to get fluid to start bubbling out of the valve.

When I was driving it down from Seattle I noticed how high the brake pedal effort was; to really stop it I had to literally lift my butt out of the seat with my shoulders pressed up against the seat back I was pushing so hard. The P.O. had told me the boosters has been bypassed because the brakes felt better without it but I was thinking as I was driving it home, I was going to get those boosters back online! Now however, with the system filled with fresh fluid and properly bled, the brakes are pretty good. Pedal effort isn't too bad, and that's with whatever pads are on there. I'll look into upgrading those too.

The car started fine after sitting idle all this time. Did a couple runs up and down the street to make sure everything was good. Took it down to the local custom exhaust shop and they fabricated a great connecting pipe setup and the exhaust system is now all tight and sounds great. Took it over to AAA and I now have my permanent registration and new plates!

I was amazed at the driving difference. I've only done the rear of the car; the front is still the way it was when I bought it (harsh, jolting; shocks are not good, etc.). However just by replacing that damaged radius arm, replacing the rear bushings with poly bushings and putting in the new SPAX shocks and springs... wow what a difference. Even without any kind of alignment the car now goes in a straight line; and that's without me holding the steering wheel! When I drove it down from Seattle it constantly hunted left to right to left to right and I fought that for over 1200 miles to keep it in a straight line. Now, even with the front still harsh, the car is actually somewhat pleasant to drive. Engine needs a tune of course, but it actually ran pretty good. Has a surprising amount of power.

I can't wait to get the front done. When I get this done, aligned and sorted out, this car's going to be a blast to drive.

Last edited by EuropaFan; 08-13-2011 at 06:12 PM.
EuropaFan is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community > Lotus Discussions > Other Lotus Models

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome