05 Elise alternator replacement - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-30-2015, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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05 Elise alternator replacement

My alternator isn't outputting as much as it should and the car won't hold idle and just die. The battery doesn't charge much either so I got a new alternator (rebuilt most likely) and I need to replace the old one with the new one.

I've done that on my honda civic a long time ago but the Elise is another animal. Do I need to remove the clam shell or should I be able to remove that stuff just by removing the wheel and the arch liner?

I have the shop manual for the car but I'm not sure if they mention anything about the alternator but I'll look tonight.

Is it something I can do in a couple of hours?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-30-2015, 01:22 PM
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You can do it. Remove the right rear wheel and liner (with car on jack stands). It allows you to work from the top and side/bottom. I won't say that it is fun, but not terrible. It took me about two hours in the parking lot at the track. An extra pair of hands can be useful too.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-30-2015, 02:19 PM
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Although some say you can do it, the space is very tight. My Lotus dealer quoted me a reasonable rate to do it. I think they quoted something like 2 hours of labor. I don't need an alternator yet but if I did, I would let the dealer swap it.

Then again perhaps you don't have a dealer nearby.

Good Luck.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-30-2015, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks!

I'll get to it tomorrow I think.
I do have a dealer not too far but the car is no longer street legal and I don't really want to go through the hassle of hauling it there
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-30-2015, 06:39 PM
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Here's another vote for a couple hour job. It's tight, but fairly easy.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-02-2015, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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How did you guys deal with the belt tensioner? I can't fit a 3/4 ratchet on that thing since there is very little space between that fake nut and the sub-frame... It has to be rotated clockwise from what I understand.
I have a flat hex key on the nut now but I can't pull it to release the pressure on the belt. Therefore I can't remove the belt and can't remove the alternator.

Did you remove the alternator from the top? Don't think there's enough space to get it from under the car. From the top, it seems like the charcoal canister would be in the way. I had removed that thing but ended up re-installing it for some reason
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-03-2015, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Ah! Got it!

Ended up having to use some tricky system for the belt tensioner but in the end, I got the stupid thing off. Then I had to remove the EVAP stuff because for one, it's useless and second, since I also have a FST, one of those was in the way. Since the FST has some 12000 connections, I didn't want to touch it (was hard enough installing it in the first place).

Then I used the same contraption to keep the belt loose (since I'm by myself) and got it back on the new alternator. I would agree that it is a couple hour job if you know what you're doing and I'm clueless most of the times, hahaha.

I still have to get the idle adjusted because the car still dies a little and can't sustain the normal idle RPM which I think is around 650. It seems like about 1000RPM is OK (the car is cold as well).

Now I can clean it and sell it.
Unfortunately, since I want to upgrade I can't keep the Elise because I have no space
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GronkDaSlayer View Post
Ah! Got it!

Ended up having to use some tricky system for the belt tensioner
wow, mind sharing some info on that tricky system of yours? The last time I managed to budge that belt tensioner was after full rear-clam removal and using a 1 meter-long breaker bar attached to a low profile 3/8 drive socket! I'll need to take the alternator out again soon for my supercharger install so if you know how to do this without taking off rear clam that'll save me like 10 hours!
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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wow, mind sharing some info on that tricky system of yours? The last time I managed to budge that belt tensioner was after full rear-clam removal and using a 1 meter-long breaker bar attached to a low profile 3/8 drive socket! I'll need to take the alternator out again soon for my supercharger install so if you know how to do this without taking off rear clam that'll save me like 10 hours!
I used the longest socket wrench I had and extended the handle with the second part of my floor jack handle. Then, I pulled the belt tensioner and used a tie down to keep it compressed. The tie down was going around the wheel hub.

Wasn't pretty but it worked.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-13-2016, 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by GronkDaSlayer View Post
I used the longest socket wrench I had and extended the handle with the second part of my floor jack handle. Then, I pulled the belt tensioner and used a tie down to keep it compressed. The tie down was going around the wheel hub.

Wasn't pretty but it worked.
Sounds similar to what I ended up doing except with a meter-long steel tube instead. Thanks!
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 05:29 PM
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DENSO 210-0394 is this the alternator that is needed?

2005 Ardent Touring Elise,
should i keep it or sell it?!
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 07:42 PM
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Alternator part number

A bump on an old thread. I have a 2005 Elise and may need a new alternator. Do people think the Denso 210-0394 is the ticket? That's what MWR advertises as a replacement.

Mine has a Denso 210-0592. Has worked fine for most of the 10,000 miles of my ownership. But lately, the battery light flashes when accelerating, although battery is always charged. and belt is fine. Went to check the wires on the harness with the three little wires. They look fine but I noticed there was no bolt in the bracket on the top, and no place in the alternator to screw that missing bolt into. See photo below. So I guess some wing nut used whatever alternator was handy. Perhaps the lack of the third support bolt has contributed to what looks to be an issue with the regulator (internal regulator, yes?).
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2005 Elise (magnetic blue), starshield, chin guards, Penske nonajustable shocks (BWR), Mishimoto sandwich plate, AEM oil temp and pressure gauges, third brake light flasher, Larini Group B silencer, Sector 111 DSBrace
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-23-2019, 10:08 AM
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Do they make chrome alternators for the Elige?

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