I'm a bit short on time today, looked at the ECU it has every input/output fused. Check this with a diode test on a multimeter.
This one has extra conformal coating or is possibly damaged.
--Yeah it has extra conformal coating, I took a close up video of everything and really zoomed in, no signs of physical damage. I can post if you want to see.
Q:MFRU do the contacts look burnt at all to you?
A: No, this is just very sloppy flux. You can clean that with denatured alcohol and a q-tip.
What do you mean by cluster light?
The MFRU looks like it might be fine, the 70ohm should match up to the coils of the relays.
I think it's probably the part you originally touched. Damaged wire harness connector or damaged pin on ECU. Take a close look at this.
Cluster light as in the top of the 2 light buttons next to the start button. Once I press that the F7 fuse blows.
Yeah I cant find anything that physically looks bad on any PCB. So it makes me really confused on what is wrong unless it is a wire, but then how would it just go out? When I originally unplugged the harness from the piggyback ECU I didn't move the wire more than an inch and didn't even bed them just moved it a little. And just 15 minutes before that I was driving it with no symptoms at all.
-To me it seems to be a very high coincidence that a wire would have got dislodged or broken for the ECU.
-The clicking still happens even with the ECU detached, but it stops when it take the MFRU out.
-when I measured at the wire harness of the MFRU there's no varying signals that would indicate a reason for the MFRU to be engaging sporadically.
-all symptoms stop when the MFRU is unplugged except for the fuel level.
I really don't know what else to test other than taking more apart and randomly testing wires. If I had another MFRU I could test to see if the resistances matched. I'm still thinking that the MFRU is the culprit. I'm going to take the front MFRU out and see if there are any similarities in resistance, I just know that that one cant go in the rear.