Elise - No voltage on R1 fuse - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Elise - No voltage on R1 fuse

My Elise will not start. Starter tries to turn it over. I do not hear the fuel pump prime. I checked the fuse box and while the fuse seems fine, position R1 reads 0 volts. R2 reads 12+ V.

Does this voltage come straight off the ECU? I'm not sure where to go next.



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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 05:27 PM
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Is there no voltage to ground on either side of the fuse holder? (+12 from rear lug terminal to R-1 (20a fuse) to fuel pump relay).
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 3carmonte View Post
Is there no voltage to ground on either side of the fuse holder? (+12 from rear lug terminal to R-1 (20a fuse) to fuel pump relay).
I'm not 100% sure what you're asking, but I think you mean: Did I check both sides of the fuse sockets? Yes, I did, and I checked R2 just to make sure I was doing it right. R2 shows 12+ V. R1 shows 0 V on each side of the fuse socket.

I have seen that wiring diagram before, but I'm new to this and think I just realized what it is saying... the positive post that I read is near the MFRU apparently gets wired straight to this fuse box? And if I'm reading it right, the ECU would not get power if that positive post was not getting power.

So... I have a bad wire or bad wire connection from that positive post into the fuse holder?

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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I wiggled the cables around the positive post and also around the fuse box, and got 12 V for a bit. Put fuse back in, still no pump, pull fuse to recheck voltage, back to 0V.

I am the sad.

I think there must be a loose connection but it is inconsistent so I'm struggling with where it is loose.


Last edited by Parko; 02-14-2019 at 06:40 PM.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 04:00 AM
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I'm feeling your pain and frustration. The three phases of "Lot's Of Trouble Usually Serious": 1). The realization and disbelief that this is happening. 2). The frustration and angst that it is happening and you're not sure how to address it. 3). The realization that (if it is solid, not intermittent), it's not going anywhere and will be located and fixed (maybe with some help) just like every other problem that comes along in life.

I don't know where that lug post is located. We don't have have any "as built" / component location diagrams for our cars. If it is right at the battery terminal area, it may just be corroded. Remember, source and destination. Either the open is right at the wire junction to the fuse "socket" or it's farther back at the +12vdc source (if we can assume there are no splices/junctions in between). You got action when you wiggled at the connection points. If you pierce the wire insulation arriving at R1 with a pin and measure for 12vdc that will tell the tale, no? Your doing good. Don't give up!

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 05:42 AM
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Be careful going around jiggling wires - a shop did that with mine (the post is below the ECU, on the firewall) and somehow they blew the immobilizer when they did that.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by cyow5 View Post
Be careful going around jiggling wires - a shop did that with mine (the post is below the ECU, on the firewall) and somehow they blew the immobilizer when they did that.
Word! ...as the hipsters say.

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