[Instrument Cluster Modification] A brief guide to upgrading your needles and LCD - Page 7 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #121 of 181 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 06:16 AM
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Anyone have any thoughts as to what might be causing this?
Just a dumb suggestion but have you tried the dimmer switch already? Tried holding it down and/or resetting it to see if it's already on "max" brightness?
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post #122 of 181 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 06:20 AM
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Just a dumb suggestion but have you tried the dimmer switch already? Tried holding it down and/or resetting it to see if it's already on "max" brightness?
I did try this, but it was ineffective. The dimmer properly dimmed the rings, but had no effect on the EL panel.
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post #123 of 181 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 08:04 AM
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Hey OddManout,

it could just be the dimmer function on the backlit display. If you hold down the button next to the ignition point it will brighten/dim the display cluster...I would try this first before getting to frustrated. Personally speaking, it is probably all that it is.

Good luck...I have to do this next week as I will FINALLY have time to work on the car.

Edit: HAHAHA< sorry someone beat me to it. Opps!!!

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post #124 of 181 (permalink) Old 03-30-2015, 06:03 PM
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Finally got the new stepper motor soldered in and all buttoned up. Works like it should now. Just want to say thank you again to all that helped with my questions throughout the way.
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post #125 of 181 (permalink) Old 04-03-2015, 07:48 AM
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Finally getting around to installing this! One question, I saw the difference with the yellow/orange EL panel and the white one. I like the white better, where does one go to purchase a white EL panel?

Thanks

2005 LRG Lotus Elise
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post #126 of 181 (permalink) Old 04-03-2015, 08:16 AM
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They're on eBay now, or just go directly to that riceburner98 guy...

2005 Chrome Orange Elise
Mod list: Stainless shift knob.
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post #127 of 181 (permalink) Old 04-06-2015, 06:49 AM
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Thought I would post final pictures for another completed display. Many thanks to Riceburner98 for identifying and fixing a bad diode which kept my EL panel from lighting up. This setup includes a faceplate and carbon fiber surround by t955152, black and white LCD, white EL panel, Riceburner98 LED rings, and the harley needles painted red. Super happy with how it all turned out in the end.
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post #128 of 181 (permalink) Old 04-06-2015, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thought I would post final pictures for another completed display. Many thanks to Riceburner98 for identifying and fixing a bad diode which kept my EL panel from lighting up. This setup includes a faceplate and carbon fiber surround by t955152, black and white LCD, white EL panel, Riceburner98 LED rings, and the harley needles painted red. Super happy with how it all turned out in the end.
WOW! beautiful!
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post #129 of 181 (permalink) Old 04-06-2015, 08:39 PM
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Yea, looks awesome.

** save ~10 lbs gain 1 hp ** EQ: Y=(190*X) / (1984-X) where Y is (HP) and X is (lbs)

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post #130 of 181 (permalink) Old 04-18-2015, 05:37 PM
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Tried finally putting my plexi over the Harley needles and the plexi hits the hat. Anyone else have this problem? And before you comment, yes I cut the shaft down to the same size as the stock ones and they fit flush with the overlay.

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post #131 of 181 (permalink) Old 04-18-2015, 07:32 PM
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Corvus, the easy fix is to get a hot glue gun and run a bead around the edge where the glass sits to raise it a bit. Also, if you bought the additional trim piece from Terry, you can put it under the glass as a spacer then glue it all together. I had the same issue.
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post #132 of 181 (permalink) Old 04-20-2015, 08:29 AM
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I did what Nessal said, just with silicone. I put a bead all the way around it and let it dry. Then I did another bead all the way around it and put the plexi on it.
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post #133 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-23-2015, 11:03 AM
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Welp I'm worried the new el panel took a dive. Stopped working the other day. Needles, lcd panel all light up just fine except for the el panel. Will need to pull it again and see what's wrong with it. Worst case I will just need to put the stock one back in and/or hope that someone has an extra I can buy.
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post #134 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-23-2015, 11:35 AM
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Oh no! Unfortunately the Post Office is closed now or I'd have one in the mail today.. I'll get one sent out when they open on Tuesday. If it just died then I'll replace it for free, no worries! Did it just stop suddenly, or get dimmer over time and fade to nothing?

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post #135 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-23-2015, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Riceburner98 View Post
Oh no! Unfortunately the Post Office is closed now or I'd have one in the mail today.. I'll get one sent out when they open on Tuesday. If it just died then I'll replace it for free, no worries! Did it just stop suddenly, or get dimmer over time and fade to nothing?
Nope just dead. Worked the day before, shut the car off and went to start it the next morning and it did not turn on.
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post #136 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-23-2015, 11:48 AM
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Damn.. Sounds like a contact or wire broke. I would say before removing the clear plastic or anything (assuming it's glued on), try removing the back of the cluster and plugging the OEM one into the connector. If it works, then it's probably a broken connection in the EL panel, if so it's most likely at the crimp where they attach the connector. If for some reason the OEM one doesn't work when plugged in, a diode on the circuit board might have gone bad. The EL in my car didn't work (well, it was on but very dim), and it turned out after replacing all the big parts in the circuit a tiny $0.02 diode was the problem. I'll put one of those in with the EL, just in case as well. Unfortunately that's on the front side of the circuit board, so you'd have to pull the front cover / needles to get the board out..

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post #137 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-29-2015, 05:51 AM
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You are awesome! I want to mod my cluster now.
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post #138 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-30-2015, 05:19 AM
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@Riceburner98 welp it looks to be the diode or at least I hope. As I pulled the cluster and plugged the stock el panel in and got nothing. Starting the process now of ripping it apart again, hopefully I dont break anything (needle motor, clear retainer clips, etc etc) when I get it apart I will post pics of the diode that needs replaced.
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post #139 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-30-2015, 05:29 AM
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Funny how quickly things come apart when you've done it a couple of times. :/ @Riceburner98 I'm missing where the diode u sent me needs to go on the front of the board. I dont seem to see a similar component on the board. Any chance you could point me in the right direction??
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post #140 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-30-2015, 06:32 AM
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That's not good.. Hopefully the diode takes care of it! If you look at the top middle of the board in the picture, you'll see a square blue plastic capacitor sticking up, then to the right is the EL driver chip (16 pins), then just to the upper right of that is the diode. (it has 3 pins). To the left of the round black painted inductor. In the picture, it's just above (touching) the red wire. Basically on the opposite side of the 2-pin connector that the EL plugs into. The easiest way (I think) to remove them with only one soldering iron is to make a blob of solder across the 2 pins on one side, then quickly touch the single pin side, and go back and forth between them. Both sides will get hot enough that the part comes off.

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