[Instrument Cluster Modification] A brief guide to upgrading your needles and LCD - Page 8 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #141 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-30-2015, 03:30 PM
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Awesome thanks @Riceburner98 . I tried simply just heating up each one individually and using a set of tweezers to pull it off but had no luck, its going to take me a little bit :/ With the solder trick you mentioned on the one side I assume you added extra solder to make it one solid blob? And when you put the new one in I assume the one solid blob cant stay there??
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post #142 of 181 (permalink) Old 05-31-2015, 06:48 AM
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Yep! I add enough solder across the 2 pins to make a solid blob, and can add more to the 1 pin on the other side as well. Basically creating a larger mass to hold the heat and keep it molten while switching sides.. Then remove as much as you can from the pads when re-installing. Technically since this is a diode (which only uses 2 pins, the 3-pin package is just for convenience I think? So it can't be installed backwards), so the 2nd pin on that side is unused and leaving them blobbed together wouldn't electrically change anything. Those always confuse me because that package is typically for a transistor with 3 pins..

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post #143 of 181 (permalink) Old 06-01-2015, 05:04 AM
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So replaced the diode last night and everything seems to be working again. After putting the new diode in I tested it just like before with the original white el panel which seems to be dead. But plugging in the stock on worked. I replaced the original white with the new one and we are back up and working again. 3rd times a charm. Hopefully I dont have to do anymore soldering on the board :/ That was a pain but Riceburner98's method of adding solder and heating both sides up worked like a charm but I did need to asked my wife to man a set of tweezers. Thanks for the help @Riceburner98 .
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post #144 of 181 (permalink) Old 06-18-2015, 04:46 AM
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Anyone have an issue with the tach needing to be reset to factory position after this? My install was kind of a mess because I had to replace both motors at the same time. Got the recommended replacements, ground off the standoffs and soldered in. Speedo works great, but I'd say about every 5th or 6th start up, the tach will stick about 1k RPM higher. Doing the gauge reset (open driver side door, pull 7.5A fuse and key on while holding odo reset) works, but a few weeks later, it comes right back. Never had this happen in the 2 years prior.

It might just be me.

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post #145 of 181 (permalink) Old 06-18-2015, 05:55 AM
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No need to pull a fuse to reset.

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post #146 of 181 (permalink) Old 06-18-2015, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLKado View Post
Anyone have an issue with the tach needing to be reset to factory position after this? My install was kind of a mess because I had to replace both motors at the same time. Got the recommended replacements, ground off the standoffs and soldered in. Speedo works great, but I'd say about every 5th or 6th start up, the tach will stick about 1k RPM higher. Doing the gauge reset (open driver side door, pull 7.5A fuse and key on while holding odo reset) works, but a few weeks later, it comes right back. Never had this happen in the 2 years prior.

It might just be me.
I had an issue with both of mine sticking. Look how fast I'm going!!



This was because the plexi was barely contacting the top of the needle hat and would cause it to stick on rare occasion. I had to pull the cluster out and raise the plexi up a little bit so it wasn't rubbing on the hats. Has been perfect now. So check to make sure it's not barely contacting.
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post #147 of 181 (permalink) Old 08-18-2015, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
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new link for the needle, in case anyone is looking for it.

New Harley Davidson Speedometer Gauge Cluster Pointer Needle Only 16241661 | eBay
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post #148 of 181 (permalink) Old 09-12-2015, 05:52 PM
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Thanks guys for all this, I used this info and a few other threads to install my own guage cluster face today. I have it now 100% black with white light.
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post #149 of 181 (permalink) Old 09-19-2015, 03:51 PM
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Great guide, thanks! It looks easy enough
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post #150 of 181 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 02:55 PM
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what company and part # is the source for the LED rings?
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post #151 of 181 (permalink) Old 09-28-2015, 03:29 PM
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what company and part # is the source for the LED rings?

Contact Bob
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post #152 of 181 (permalink) Old 09-30-2015, 03:02 PM
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I contacted Bob over a week ago. Still no reply. So now I'm stuck with a black Exige dash from Terry. If anyone wants it please PM me.
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post #153 of 181 (permalink) Old 09-30-2015, 03:30 PM
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Keep at it, he only answered me after I PM'd him here. He just moved and is busy I guess. I did eventually get everything needed from him
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post #154 of 181 (permalink) Old 09-30-2015, 04:23 PM
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I contacted Bob over a week ago. Still no reply. So now I'm stuck with a black Exige dash from Terry. If anyone wants it please PM me.

PM him. He's a great guy, just busy from moving. I know some others have leftover rings on here. Use the WTB section.


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post #155 of 181 (permalink) Old 10-01-2015, 04:54 PM
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post #156 of 181 (permalink) Old 10-02-2015, 04:44 AM
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Thanks for the reminder! It has been a busy couple weeks trying to get the house ready for our party.. Finally finished with the 'house' part (the day of the party, I was working until the first people showed up!), now taking a vacation (Texas) for a week then it's on to building the new workshop. Garage will probably stay a mess until next spring, there's enough room for the car anyway! I caught up with rb26dett by PM the other day, should be all set now. Going to get a few people some parts before vacation.

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Mod list: Stainless shift knob.
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post #157 of 181 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 08:16 AM
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So.. Looks like I pretty much screwed my speedo and tach gears. Long story short, I had it all assembled and tested then noticed that the plexiglass was coming in contact with my needles so I had to pull the needles to shorten them a bit and in doing so, I completely pulled the metal pin out of the gear. I tried to fix it numerous ways (Including this: https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f129...le-fix-233593/) and I don't think its gonna happen.

Anyone know where I can purchase replacement gear housing? Figure it would be easier for me to just solder in new ones to the board.




EDIT: Looks like I'm getting closer to answering my own question but I figure I should update here incase for anyone's future reference... According to this forum post X15.166=XC5.166=X25.166: No Dom, rear contacts, no mounting pegs, internal stop, standard indicator shaft. Also, X27.168 can be used with some minor modification by cutting the mounting pegs.

EDIT2: Looks like one of these may work:


or



Last edited by allectrebek; 10-05-2015 at 08:37 AM.
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post #158 of 181 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 08:35 AM
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Ouch! Unfortunately that can happen...

I wasn't able to easily find the X25-166 motors, so I use x27-168 and just cut the rear mounting posts off.. Functionally they appear to be the same and they're easily available on eBay for cheap. Just be very careful when de-soldering the motor from the board - there are traces on the front side (under the motor) and if solder sticks while pulling the motor, it's real easy to pull a trace off the board. Make sure they wiggle freely after removing the solder, and you should be OK.

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post #159 of 181 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 08:56 AM
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Awesome! Thanks for the tip! I ended up ordering these as they had good reviews and I could get it here tomorrow with Prime shipping. Looks like they are direct X15.168 replacements so I'll just do the same and cut off the rear mounting posts.



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post #160 of 181 (permalink) Old 11-10-2015, 09:27 AM
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Does anyone have a copy of the pdf for the LED ring install? The link in the first post is no longer working and would love to put this back in the car today.


Thanks!!
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