Manual Override for cooling fans - Page 2 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 09:08 AM
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@Ron-323 .... Not trying to be a wise acre, but I have a much simpler solution to deal with your heat build-up due to lengthy wait-times when on grid....turn off the car. I have no fans on my 2-11 and run in very HOT temps during the summer (Southern Nevada) and that works for me when stuck on grid....just saying.

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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-19-2019, 08:29 PM
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Jack's recommendation works for track days (20+min cool down before sessions).

For autocross it doesn't work that great since time in grid is way shorter, it's just not fast enough at reducing temps before your next run. Your best option to mitigate heat is to convert to an Electric Water pump and run that with the fans in grid with engine off.

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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 05:39 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack View Post
@Ron-323 .... Not trying to be a wise acre, but I have a much simpler solution to deal with your heat build-up due to lengthy wait-times when on grid....turn off the car. I have no fans on my 2-11 and run in very HOT temps during the summer (Southern Nevada) and that works for me when stuck on grid....just saying.
No offense taken, all the discussion on this thread has been really helpful.

Turning the car off is what I attempt to do now and it does work 8 out of 10 times. When I go the grid I want my to focus on driving not car, and when released to track again I want to focus on the driving. Going on the track "cool" lets me accomplish this better.

I am thinking you are a more seasoned / experienced driver an can handle these situations in stride. I am trying to get there.

Thanks,
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mwehnes View Post
Your best option to mitigate heat is to convert to an Electric Water pump and run that with the fans in grid with engine off.
...Or, since the Elige's were equipped with an electric water pump, he could just hot-wire the heat soak pump and let that do the circulation when the engine is turned off. Admittedly it's not a huge pump and the factory settings let things get pretty hot before switching it on, but these engines are susceptible to what Lotus calls "...localised boiling within the cylinder head" if the engine is turned off under certain conditions.

It's nice that the system is there and the ECU is smart enough to use the pump and even the cooling fans for up to twenty minutes for heat soak management, but for those of us with aftermarket batteries, I don't think my little PC625 would run things for very long.

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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 06:03 AM
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The pump runs coolant through the heater core, AFAIK not the radiator, and is not intended for actually cooling the engine but moving coolant around
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-20-2019, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by exigegus View Post
The pump runs coolant through the heater core, AFAIK not the radiator, and is not intended for actually cooling the engine but moving coolant around
You're correct, it pumps the coolant through the heater matrix. They designed the heat soak management system with rise and fall switching temperatures for both the recirculation pump and radiator cooling fans so one can only assume they intended the system to provide a measure of engine cooling under certain conditions.

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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 08:53 AM
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After all the messaging about the topic, I decided to do the same to my car since it's torn apart right now, and I'm considering a move to Nevada in the near future.

I found a convenient spot in the cabin where circuits 363 (Blue/Slate) & 364 (Blue/Yellow) are accessible under the center console. I pre-wired the switch with about 10-12" of wire and tapped into the wires just forward of the shifter, I used a shifter mount bolt for a grounding point. I mounted the switch on the front of the console below the CDL switch.

For splices like this that are protected from the elements, I like to use 3M Scotchlok connectors because they provide good contact and are minimally invasive to the factory wiring:
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/3056...ap-Connector-/

There's a close-up of the switch, notice how I looped the ground from one terminal to the next. On the six terminals of a DPDT switch, you'll have the wires that you tapped into circuits 363 & 364 going one each to the center terminals of the switch and a ground connection on both sides of the 363 wire, and a ground connection on one side of the 364 wire. The sixth terminal is blank.

You can see where I found the wires to tap into just in front of the shifter. I made the switch and pig-tail on the bench and then just had to make the final connections in the car.

There's a closeup of where I made the connections. I used a grey wire to connect to circuit 363 (Blue/Slate), and a blue wire with a homemade yellow stripe to connect to circuit 364 (Blue/Yellow). You can see where I connected the ground wire using the shifter mount bolt.

Obviously, I haven't covered the wires back up, I have some large corrugated plastic tubing or maybe spiral wrap to protect everything. I haven't done the operational check on it yet because other things are disassembled at the moment, but I'm pretty sure it'll work...fingers crossed...
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-21-2019, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks so much - Perfect
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