DIY Side Sills - Page 4 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #61 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-20-2015, 01:54 PM
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Big thanks to da40flyer for letting us have his .dxf file. I just received my sills from a local sign shop 1 day after giving them this order! $135 for 0.1" thick aluminum with such a short turnaround is the way to go - no online ordering or shipping to worry about. I won't be able to install mine for another week, but here's a quick view with the blue protective film for contrast. The .dxf file is a perfect fit for the Exige.
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post #62 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-28-2015, 09:47 PM
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Finally got around to doing this install and I must say this is one nice and affordable DIY job. I did this mod for aesthetics and to cut back on panel stone chips. My old starshield had stone pitting in several spots along the lower sill.

I opted for well nuts and not rivnuts. Well nuts are cheaper than rivnuts, easier to install and allow a thin rubber cushion between the metal and the fiberglass. These sills still have enough clearance with my floor jack, so no removal is necessary come oil change time unlike the wider sills.

Total cost with all materials: $160ish.

Materials: 0.1" thick aluminum purchased from a local sign shop, 20 well nuts (10-24 size), bolts, washers, Cowles black edge trim, leftover black plastidip.
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Last edited by +TSRAGR; 10-28-2015 at 09:58 PM.
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post #63 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-31-2015, 04:52 AM
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Those look great. You are right that these end the rock chip potential on the back edge of the doors, rockers and leading edge of the rear fender.

I have found the last 4 inches of the top/back edge of the side sills are catching rocks that are carried around the outer edge of the rear tire. This was with slicks on the track. I should have put paint protection fill on the top of the side sill.
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post #64 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 01:30 PM
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I'm really happy I stumbled across this thread when I did.

Super happy with the outcome of this.

I was having a hard time finding a place that would cut the material for me locally and I was getting quotes of a few months lead time or 10X the typical costs.

I ended up giving Discount Steel in Tx a call and they were super accommodating. i had the cut sills in about a week ( I live in NJ).

Price was super cheap 140 shipped.

After a few long nights the final product 100% exceeded my expectation.

Attached with Riv-nuts and I plasti dipped the sills

Pics below.
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post #65 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-10-2016, 06:44 PM
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Looks great guys, post up some full on side shots and from other angles when you get a chance.
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post #66 of 71 (permalink) Old 03-24-2016, 10:33 AM
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Big big THANK YOU and props to da40flyer for posting this thread and dxf file up for everyone!!!

I finished mines two days ago (5 hours time with help from brother - highly recommend a second helper to make this go quicker).

First side took longer because of the trial and error of drilling and lining up the holes. The sills doesn't come with holes so I had to drill my own (9 total for me) on each side with wellnut fastners as mentioned in previous post.

I asked around but went with Jason @ discountsteel in TX per the OP and he got them to me within 2 weeks time (very smooth transaction over email)! $50 each side with $20 shipping to California = $120 total. I just reference him to this link here to download the dxf file.

Well nuts/screws and cheap carbon fiber vinyl wrap/plastic dip, door trim, misc cost probably another $60 bucks. But if you budget or already have some of the parts, can be under $150 for total project that will transform your Elige!

Hints and tips/observations - some of it below won't make much sense until you see it in person:
-The wellnuts (amazon - Rubber Well Nuts #10-24 .767 Length 3/8" Hole ) were easy to install after drilling 3/16" hole first. Recommend using drill stopper about a little less than 3/8" down from drill tip. I put two drill stoppers on top of each other just so it'll prevent the drill stopper from possibly coming loose.
-The wellnuts (because of their bottom edge design) will cause a approximate 1/8" gap between the underside and sill (will have to fill in the gap with foam tape or door trim. I haven't decided yet)
-Screws (amazon - Phillips Truss head 10-24 x 3/4") were perfect for using without washer. But if you were going to use a washer with the screw, it would barely start grabbing the well nut threads or won't at all (slighly too short). I would recommend 7/8" length screws or longer if using in conjunction with washers.
-The front of the car, don't drill to far towards the inside edge of the under body or you will hit something beyond the fiberglass that's hard (looks some structural hard plastic) so drill closer to the middle and outside. I want to say 6-8" radius away from the inside top edge. My trial and error caused about 2 half-drilled holes because of hitting this structure. The middle and back end doesn't have any obstructions right underneath the fiberglass.
-I drilled a total of nine holes. The 4 middle holes were spaced about 10"-12" inches apart, while I had 2-3 holes closer to each other on either end - 6" apart for supporting the ends.
-I decided to wrap with cheap carbon fiber vinyl wrap to see how long it will last. If it get messed up, I can unwrap it and plastic dip. Just a note on the cheaper vinyl is that it doesn't pop or have the 3d-ish look like the 3M Scotchprint 1080 I used to wrap my battered carbon fiber lip. There is no shiny texture, but more of a flat matte look to it. But it cost less than 1/3 of the price of the 3M so that also explains why.
-The back of the sill doesn't go all the way to the back edge of the car. It stops about 1" from the edge where the wheel arch lines comes down. I'm sure this was by design but just an observation on my end and you can see in the posted pictures above what I mean.
-Each side sill probably weights ~5lbs each.

Overall for a DIY project a difficulty of 4/10 after da40flyer already did the heavy lifting measuring and fitting. Hardest part is drilling the sill and matching it up with the under body and drilling the under body hoping the screws will fit once the wellnuts were in place - especially for someone who nevered drilled into the Lotus fiberglass.

Will post pics shortly.
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Last edited by jhentr; 03-25-2016 at 08:04 AM. Reason: Added pics
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post #67 of 71 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 09:19 AM
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post #68 of 71 (permalink) Old 04-02-2016, 10:56 AM
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I look at my sills everyday when I pass the car in the garage and still think it was the best mod I've done yet to the car.
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post #69 of 71 (permalink) Old 04-02-2016, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotusxs View Post
Those look great. You are right that these end the rock chip potential on the back edge of the doors, rockers and leading edge of the rear fender.

I have found the last 4 inches of the top/back edge of the side sills are catching rocks that are carried around the outer edge of the rear tire. This was with slicks on the track. I should have put paint protection fill on the top of the side sill.
I have always had the Reverie side sills, which are VERY similar to these, and in my experience, the front of the rear fenders above the rear-most part of the side sills behind the doors still get trashed if you track your car. I went through 2 sets of Star Shield for the side sills before deciding to use the Trakk Tape product sold here on the forums. My track buddies laughed that I would essentially use clear bra to protect the clear bra, but spending $700-$1000 for new Star Shield/clear bra on the side sills after every event or every other event was not something I could stomach. I would peel off the Trakk Tape after every event and not only was it heavily covered with black scuffs and smears from being pelted with the rubber marbles, it would have holes, pits, and tears from gravel or other sharp debris as well. Every other Elise and Exige I'd see at the track was like this too, and at the end of the day when I peeled my dusty, blackened and shredded extra clear bra off to reveal a clean, pristine side sill underneath, I got a lot of raised eyebrows, amazed looks, and inquiries about where to get it.

Basically, I would caution people to NOT rely on any side sills to protect those rear fender areas at track events.
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post #70 of 71 (permalink) Old 04-02-2016, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by mavila View Post
I have always had the Reverie side sills, which are VERY similar to these, and in my experience, the front of the rear fenders above the rear-most part of the side sills behind the doors still get trashed if you track your car. I went through 2 sets of Star Shield for the side sills before deciding to use the Trakk Tape product sold here on the forums. My track buddies laughed that I would essentially use clear bra to protect the clear bra, but spending $700-$1000 for new Star Shield/clear bra on the side sills after every event or every other event was not something I could stomach. I would peel off the Trakk Tape after every event and not only was it heavily covered with black scuffs and smears from being pelted with the rubber marbles, it would have holes, pits, and tears from gravel or other sharp debris as well. Every other Elise and Exige I'd see at the track was like this too, and at the end of the day when I peeled my dusty, blackened and shredded extra clear bra off to reveal a clean, pristine side sill underneath, I got a lot of raised eyebrows, amazed looks, and inquiries about where to get it.

Basically, I would caution people to NOT rely on any side sills to protect those rear fender areas at track events.
I have the Reverie side sills as well and the rock protection is non-existent. You'd think they'd help but honestly I didn't notice any difference. Your mileage may vary.

San

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post #71 of 71 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 03:27 AM
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Originally Posted by da40flyer View Post
I don't really care for most of the side sills that are available. Most are too large for my taste; looking more like running boards.

I attached the .dxf file if anyone else likes them and would like to make their own. They fit my 2010 Exige S240 like a glove. No guarantee they will fit your car, but would certainly give you a good starting point.
Good day.The size of the image in the file .dxf in inch?
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