Results so far...
Just so you know I have access to a fully equiped optical lab, so when I say brighter.. I measured it.
And the discovery - many of the CAN compliant bulbs add a load resistor. This runs hot and is in the base of the lamp. If you don't need it.. avoid it.
Waisted power - never a good thing.
Turn signals -
OSRAM LED PY21W BAU15s Amber Exterior Light 2x Bulbs 7557YE-02B
I measured the light output on these bulbs and it was fairly even and between 30% and 40% brighter.
Work really nicely in the reflector.
Because I have rear LED lights as well the stock flasher relay had to be changed out for one that copes with no load.
People sell a resistor to add to load up the system. I firmly believe if you add a resistor Colin will turn in his grave. My local car parts store carried them on the peg. It is labled "Bosh CF-13" I asked for a flasher relay for a Prius 2010 ( which has LEDS and was parked outside the store )
In the past I have used other ones, and some are oversized for the multi relay connectors. I believe the specification is 28mm base (1.1")
Reverse Lights -
Oh previous owner.. how I love thee.
The reverse bulbs are glued into the melted housings. I have some nice bulbs. But I cant try them till the new light units get here.
Running lights -
I have tried 2 in holder.
SYLVANIA ZEVO 168 T10 W5W
The ZEVO is about 45% brighter than the standard and a very even light, nice colour.
The bulb from Superbright is about 110% brighter. The colour is a little off true mask being low in the green and the light distribution is a little more lumpy. But it never dips below the Lotus part. They run moderately warm, but no way as hot as the normal bulb.
I went with the ZEVO part as the Superbrights were a bit dazzling.
Number plate bulbs
SYLVANIA ZEVO 6461 36mm Festoon White LED Bulb. Good even light.
This involved replacing the cracked lenses and seals on the light holder. And those metal screw receivers are really difficult to reinstall without double sided tape.
I got 2 sets of LEDs and 1 35W HID. I got them from Headlight Revolution. I talked to them first and asked if they would allow me to test and return the least good.
They grumble and said yes as long as they get beam pattern photos.
I installed the fresh halogen bulbs in the right and side and the test bulbs in the left hand side.
I found that taking out the headlight assembly ( reflectors and all ) was by far the easiest and quickest way to ensure the bulbs were in properly.
Headlights were aligned each time. Some one put odd pavement chalk marks on the white painted block wall (Who would do that?). I did this so I could align as close to the same every time.
I picked a down angle of 0.9%. The enclosures say 1.5%, The DOT specification is 0.7% This is a result of messing up the calculations first time. And not wanting to go back and retest.
The 3 kits were
GTR Lighting Gen 3 35W 6000k HID in H1 and H7
GTR Lighting Gen 3 30W 6000k LED in H1 and H7
Supernova V3 30W 6000k LED in H1 and H7
I also got a fresh set of Sylvania Silverstar bulbs to compare against.
First off.. Everything produced more light than the Silverstar bulbs.
The LED bulbs put out more RAW lumens than the HID. The LED bulbs were almost spot on their claimed 3000Lumens, the HID was at 2500, the Silverstar at 1600. I set the IS to only measure visible light, it was also at it's maximum measurement range and not very (5%) accurate.
When I looked at UV the Halogen had some (0.25W), the LED had no measurable and the HID was emitting more than 2W ( UV measurement full scale is 2W). Putting it as a 1m SAFTEY hazzard if there isn't a UV absorber between you and it. In car this UV gets absorbed by the headlight cover shotening it's life.
They all had at least one dip and one lump in their emissions pattern. The LEDs had 2 major dips.
The 6000k HID had a large blue spike and though it technically measured as 5950K it LOOKED very blue. The light was stark.
The Silverstar was at 3800K
Both LED bulbs ( they use the same LEDS ) were at 5920K, and the colour balance was quite good. The light looked less stark than the HID
The measured (free air) electrical power were 38W for the HID, 25W for the GTR LED, 26W for the Supernova, and 58W for the Silverstar
From a fit standpoint.
The GTR LEDs did not fit in the enclosure. The heatsinks were bigger than on the specification sheet. Thus these were eliminated.
The Supernova did fit, but it was tight, I put the drivers under the low beam reflector and fanned out the flexible heatsink
The GTR HID went in nicely. the driver is quite big, so I put it outside the reflector enclosure.
The standard bulb was as expected.
Now the crux and the ONLY thing that probably matters.
LOW Beam pattern down the road.
The standard bulbs are barely visible at twilight in the city. We all know this. At 0.9% down angle they do illuminate a dark road. But we all feel it is barely sufficient. Sure driving isn't really a problem. But there are corners and things on dark roads that just call to the right foot.
The low beam edges are sharp. the light spread is broad and fairly even.
I did a profile, but it took a really long time so I didn't repeat it for the other 2 viable bulbs.
I set the spot meter relative reference off these bulbs and set it to human response curve - so center field of this bulb is referenced as a brightness of 1 at the calibration target.
The HID bulb threw an even light pattern, but it was just brighter. I would happily drive with these.
They were clearly on at twilight and cast strong shadows off potholes
The low beam pattern was sharp but exhibited strong chromatic aberration with a very noticable and sharp blue and purple fringe. The purple is probably an artifact of the wall paint and the UV light, I could not see the fringe on concrete and it mostly went away with the covers on.
Relative center field brightness was 2.1 so these throw twice as much light down the road. This is an impressive amount of light.
The Supernova bulbs also threw a good light pattern. There was some unevenness right in front of the car. But I can't see it from the drivers seat.
The center far field pattern was good and even, however the extreme edge of the field there is some visible unevenness . This is a lower light region any way so it would have a minimal impact on driving.
The spot meter put these as a relative 2.3 brightest at the alignment target.
They were clearly on at twilight and cast strong shadows off potholes, but it was noticably less stark than the HID bulbs.
The chromatic aberration showed a blue line with wider bands of green and red. The blue line was wider than the HID and thus a little less noticable.
Driving wise I couldn't detect much difference between the 35W HID and the LED, and in the end I went for the LED bulb, as I think it was a nicer colour, but slightly less even light patten. Better instant on and thus flashability .
May be the HID colour could be resolved by going down to the 5K bulb.
But the LED instant on flash is really nice.
The LEDs lack of UV output is also really good.
I did 4 dark commutes and 1 mountain trip with both of them before deciding.
For now I have changed enough headlight bulbs.