SC Snout Removal - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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SC Snout Removal

Hi guys,

I have two questions:

1. Can I remove the SC snout to upgrade/replace the coupler, reseal the snout and change the oil
without removing the entire SC (which I do not want to do if possible)? Yes or no?

2. If yes can I remove center section with the impellers to reseal that section and grease the needle bearings?

Thanks guys.

Henry
'07 Exige S

Henry
'05 Elise
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 12:39 PM
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I would not do it that way. But let's see what others say. Clam off or not (hopefully)?

Everything comes of the top easily. There is one SOB nut out of the set to detach the throttle body (replace it with a jet nut which uses a smaller wrench). I replaced the clutch bolts with studs at the same time (makes refitting easier). Chances are pretty high that the support bracket is broken.

I remove the bypass valve to ease getting the SC out. Some people drop the SC and remove the intake manifold to ease getting it out.

I'll write a sequence if there is demand. I've done it three times.

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2007 Exige S
Stripped down and turned into a track animal
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 02:15 PM
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I took mine out of the car, the clam does not have to come off

I don't see why you could not get it off without removing it,but have not done so.

It could be that you cannot it back in cleanly and sealed properly in place.

I would not think you can get the impellers out in the car, they are too long
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, thanks guys. Anybody else attempt to do what I want to do?

I am going to try to remove the snout in the car with clam on.
I hope the thermostat hose and connection housing does not interfere. It should sit below the SC
and hopefully there is enough room to slide the snout off.

I will attempt to use the syringe to suck out as much of the SC oil through the fill hole
and then remove the snout with loads of rags below to catch any spill.

I ordered new fluid and a Delran coupler which they say is stronger than the stock coupler.

Henry
'05 Elise
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 09:13 PM
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I'm trying to keep my stupid mouth shut but I can't: I would not do what you are planning to do. Sorry.

I took my SC out the first time without removing the clam. It was a PITA. And the chances of damaging the clam and your back (spine) are too high in my view.

I learned to remove the clam and now I take it off to change the air filter (well, I only change the air filter when I take the clam off, which is 5-6 times a year). I cannot say enough about how soooo much easier everything is to do when the clam is off. This is a mandatory move if you track the car more than once a year or do any maintenance beyond oil change (in my opinion).

Now, I have to admit that Eric Gauthier at Suspension Performance tweaked my connectors so that I have a few less bolts to look for, and I have no heat shields, and I more recently moved my battery to the A/C heater compartment, etc, etc, so I can get the clam off in 15 minutes or so, but even stock, it is not more than an hour's work with practice.

Either way, if you are into rebuilding your SC, you should be able to take off your clam as fast as you remove your roof.

I rest my case.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 09:20 PM
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And *really* pick up on my reference to the jet nut and the throttle body. That nut is a serious SOB and if you replace it with a jet nut, you will be in easy street.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 03:26 AM
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I see no need to remove the clam.

https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f15...xige-s-466230/

A flange head nut with a 10mm head might help in the future, but they are not that easy to find, and as long as I don't lose the gooseneck wrench I will be fine
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 06:09 AM
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I did a lot of work on my SC years ago.

I would be careful putting the blue grease on the needle nose bearings. I had to go back in a few months later and found that stuff all over my lobes, and I thought I was being judicious...

Also it comes apart in 3 sections as you know. I'm sure you can get the snout off, not sure if lobes will have interference or not?

Use the red anaerobic gasket sealant to button it all up.

I went a couple steps further and polished the intake casting and also ported the output flange a little. Certainly could not do any of that with that thing in there.

L O T U S
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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Update - so last week I removed the snout off of the supercharger.
It required removal of the right side inner fender liner, motor mount/bracket, belt, alternator and IC pipe.

I then drained all of the fluid with a large plastic syringe. Only 85mils came out. I was worried more would spill once the snout was removed but amazingly there was virtually none left (not good).

I pulled the snout out, cleaned it off, removed the pulley (to clean surface) and add my new smaller pulley (3.1).
I also replaced the coupler and sanded the mating surface nice and clean.

The center section can be fully removed if you disconnect the t-stat housing and remove the two studs. Since I just did the t-stat and antifreeze I opted to not. I really wanted to grease the rear of the SC, oh well. However the center section does slide out about two inches which was enough to sand clean both mating surfaces and apply a thin layer of red high temp sealant.

I rebolted the snout on, added new fluid (old fluid was quite black) and put everything back together.

This project was in conjunction with my new Bosch injectors (550's) and Radium fuel rail. Next on the list will be the surge tank from BOE.

Happy wrenching all.

Henry
'07 Exige S
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Henry
'05 Elise

Last edited by henrymfisher; 07-06-2019 at 08:06 AM.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-06-2019, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
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I have no idea why the photos turned 90 degrees, sorry.

Henry
'05 Elise
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