. . . took the wheels off for some reason, went out, vibration at speed. Took them off again, rotated them one hole and more carefully tightened the bolts, gone
- Are the hub centering rings present and a good fit on your wheels? They are an important part of centering the wheel on a hub. You probably know all this, but here’s how I maximize the centering of a wheel:
- lift the vehicle so the tire is off the ground.
- ensure the mating surfaces of the hub and the wheel are clean, flat and true, then place the wheel on the hub.
- install the first wheel bolt hand-tight, then back it off 1/4 turn.
- install all other wheel bolts the same way.
- hand-tighten each bolt in an even pattern so that the back face of the wheel just
touches the hub. So far, all bolt tightening has been accomplished by turning an extension on the socket by hand . . . no other tools.
- tighten the wheel bolts to about 2/3 of final torque in an even pattern (for 4 bolt, it would be 1,3,2,4).
- bring each wheel bolt to final torque in one sweep of the wrench. Use an even pattern of course. Leave the car in gear to lock the driven wheels and block undriven wheels with a wedge to lock them. If you can’t block the wheels, lower the car until the tire just touches the ground enough to prevent rotation during the final torque application.
A large contingent think that Hunter Road Force balancing is the gold standard. Here’s a Tire Review article about Road Force
. What catches my eye is that Road Force could be adjusted to apply a far greater load on the front tires than the car ever does. This could induce a dynamic imbalance - corrected by tire position or weight - that never happens on your car. So I’d ask what preload they’re using on the tire: it should only be about 400 pounds or so.
I’ve had several vehicles with tire imbalance that was not corrected with multiple attempts with dynamic balancers, including a Road Force balancer. What solved the problem for me was using my home-made bubble balancer. I’ve balanced all kinds of assemblies, including helicopter blades and props that spin up to 35,000 RPM. Experience does help - this might be a last resort if you can find someone still doing this old-school method.
You didn’t mention wheel bearings in your investigation . . . are they in good shape?