Anyone use a U-haul car trailer for Elise? - Page 2 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #21 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-04-2012, 06:47 PM
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I hauled my Elise about 1000 miles back in august. 2 by 6 boards which are 4 feet long, placed before the ramp are needed. Find a steeply sloped area to assist in a "dead load". You want to get the ramps as close to in line with the hauling bed as possible. Also, critical, back the car in, do not put it in nose first. The back of the car will clear the lip nearest the hitch, the nose of the lotus will not will not. Sorry, but I have no pictures.

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post #22 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-05-2012, 03:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by addertooth View Post
I hauled my Elise about 1000 miles back in august. 2 by 6 boards which are 4 feet long, placed before the ramp are needed. Find a steeply sloped area to assist in a "dead load". You want to get the ramps as close to in line with the hauling bed as possible. Also, critical, back the car in, do not put it in nose first. The back of the car will clear the lip nearest the hitch, the nose of the lotus will not will not. Sorry, but I have no pictures.
THX for the info... I am surprised about having to back the car.

Do it once. Do it right.
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post #23 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-08-2012, 06:33 AM
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I went to U-haul today and looked at one and I am not sure if I would be able to open the door if I back the car. The driver side wheel cover on the trailer opens and that only gives me 9" of clearance to open the door.

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post #24 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-13-2012, 01:22 PM
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I would PM addertooth on this. He actually did this not so long ago (I can attest) and has firsthand experience. Ask him which company, what trailer, etc. He has firsthand knowledge that you need. He is your best bet on advise if you do not wish to drive it. I will add that I would say drive it also.

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post #25 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-13-2012, 04:13 PM
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Many THX

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post #26 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-13-2012, 05:25 PM
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The left (Trailers driver's side) fender folds out. Back the car on with the roof off if it is an Elise. Be prepared to crawl over to the passenger side if you back it on (and want to open the door fully). With the fender down it will clear the door. Or, you can slightly open the door (with the non-dropped fender side) and slither out. You must leave yourself some extra margin to the (car's) driver side. I am not a tiny male (as SturgeonGeneral can attest), and I was able to get in and out via the slither method. The two boards which are four feet long (2" by 6"), must be placed before the ramps or your front spoiler will drag when backing the car on the ramps. The rachet straps which go over your tires (and secure your car to the trailer) have a large lip at the front of the trailer which will not clear your front spoiler. This is why I had to back my Elise onto the trailer.

Storm titanium 2005 Elise with carbon fiber spoiler, BWR sway bar, BOE toe links, gPan2, LidBone, sector 111 wheel studs, Grey RAC Monolite wheels with toyo R1R, Team Dynamics 1.4 with Hoosier A6/R6s, Katana2 Supercharger, ECU with 265 flash. PPE headers w/decat, CEL angle eliminator, Silent touch catback, Rear Panel Eliminator, HKS intake, V2 fuel tank, Walbro255 fuel pump. HID lights.

Last edited by addertooth; 10-13-2012 at 05:31 PM.
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post #27 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-27-2012, 10:19 PM
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I just purchased a new/used elise and used a U-Haul autotransport trailer to bring her home. I used 2 2x10s as "stairs" to stack the ramps up, plenty of clearance. For the front of the trailer where the front wheels but up against to strap the front wheels, I used a 2x10 cut 18 inches long and placed it under the wheel. I had to remove the trailer stops then reinstall them once the car was in place. It was a process but I trailered the car from 6.5hrs home and it was fine the entire way. On U-Hauls website they have some instructions that will elaborate on what I described. I have some pictures of the car on the trailer if you want to see it. Sorry if this info is alittle late.
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post #28 of 45 (permalink) Old 10-30-2012, 07:26 PM
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Pics would actually be great!

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post #29 of 45 (permalink) Old 11-01-2012, 02:35 PM
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I Followed these tips off of uhauls website.U-Haul: Tips: Transporting vehicles with low ground clearance
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post #30 of 45 (permalink) Old 11-01-2012, 02:41 PM
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Sorry the pic quality isn't the greatest and for my corny girlfriend, I took them with my iPhone. If you look where the front wheels but up against the trailer, those pieces can be removed. Its kind of a pain but it seemed like the safest way was to remove them then to reinstall them back on to tie down the car. Same thing when taking the car off the trailer, i pulled the pieces off and backed the car off and reinstalled them.
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post #31 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2013, 09:43 AM
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I do the same as everyone else using 2X12s for ramp 'steps' and for the front tires. I use extra 2X12s in the front so I don't need to remove the tire stops when loading the car. The fold down fender on the drivers side of the trailer makes it easy to get in & out of the car when it's on the trailer.

Do NOT back the car on the trailer and haul it backwards. I've read too many stories about sun roofs and bonnets catching wind from the wrong direction and flying off, but that's your call.

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post #32 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 06:07 PM
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Long boards are 2x12's, and the two smaller ones are 2x12's cut in half.
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post #33 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 07:29 PM
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I towed mine two years ago for a cross country move from DC to SoCal. I had no problems loading it on the uhaul. The very front of the diffuser is the only thing that could potentially touch anything, and the ramps go under the tires. I believe my driveway had a slight incline, though. So that may have helped. Use a spotter and you'll be fine.

I would recommend towing the car facing forward. I don't know that the louvers on the rear engine cover or the rear window are designed to have that kind of force applied. They would probably be okay, but why risk it?

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post #34 of 45 (permalink) Old 06-12-2013, 05:02 AM
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Towed mine 1300 miles backwards and everything was just fine. Other people may have a different experience.
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post #35 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-28-2014, 10:08 AM
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I am by far an expert from this, but to me it would appear that backing onto the trailer would put an excessive amount of weight on the tongue vs over the two axles of the trailer?

i am looking to probably do this type of haul in the next two months, and i may go with something up front to raise the lip height a bit vs. backing on.

that much tongue weight just seems sketchy to my untrained eye.
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post #36 of 45 (permalink) Old 03-28-2014, 10:17 AM
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I used one, it worked great. needed wood blocks under the tires.
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post #37 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-01-2014, 10:18 AM
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I have an enclosed trailer now but used a Uhaul one when I bought the car a couple years ago. I used the back-on method with 2x6s. My car is lowered about 1.5", still worked fine. Towed about 1000 miles with no issues.

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post #38 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-03-2014, 06:25 AM
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can i asked what you used to tow the setup with? my avalanche only has a tongue weight of (i believe) 500#.. i have a hard time believing that tongue weight will not be substantially more with the engine the close to the tongue vs over the two axles.
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post #39 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-03-2014, 06:49 AM
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I have a diesel dodge 2500, so no issue with tongue weight for me.

Still keep in mind that the trailer weighs more than the car does. Also consider that most cars on the road are FWD, and these trailers are designed for those to be loaded front forward. You will be fine.

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post #40 of 45 (permalink) Old 04-07-2014, 06:56 AM
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Both very good points - thank you!
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