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post #121 of 150 (permalink) Old 05-20-2015, 08:20 PM
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Anton,
What exhaust manifold did you use in your car? Is it a custom build design? (Any pictures?)

How did you plumb the oil feed and return lines from the engine (where on the engine did you feed and return from?).

Thanks very much!
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post #122 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-01-2015, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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re: Exhaust and Oil lines

I did not see Your post till today. The car is all buttoned up now. Also the exhaust is wrapped. I will take more pics next time the rear clam is off.

The exhaust manifold is of a custom design. It is an equal-length header with BurnsStainless turbo collector. I mounted the turbo in the back and ran exhaust to it in the straightest possible path. There are some pictures on page 4 and 3.

The collector is 321 stainless i.e. much better than 309 or 409 that is commonly used. The manifold is Inconel. Look at the difference after some use. 321 is all black and scaly. Inconel just turned greenish-grey (color of Chromium oxide). Inconel is still shiny!

I use an ARE dry sump system. I use an adaptor plate for remote oil filter where the oil filter used to be. There was a small oil feed line in that plate. This is where I take turbo oil feed. It is clean oil right after the external oil filter.
The return was provided by ARE in the dry sump oil pan. It is AN10.

I made sure that the turbo was higher than the oil sump. Water lines are more tricky, if required.

Most people take the oil feed from the VTeC oil pressure sensor port by t-ing off it. As long as the turbo return line is sloping down and empties above the oil level in the pan, a fitting can be welded to any oil pan. Dry sump makes oiling much simpler.

Anton




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Originally Posted by nuk1ear View Post
Anton,
What exhaust manifold did you use in your car? Is it a custom build design? (Any pictures?)

How did you plumb the oil feed and return lines from the engine (where on the engine did you feed and return from?).

Thanks very much!
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post #123 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-02-2015, 05:02 AM
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Modified my sway bar with a cabin-adjustable mechanism. Otherwise, known as blade sway bar. Commonly used in Formula, Indy and other race cars. Outlawed in Trans-Am and some other race classes.

Adjust the stiffness of a sway bar from the comfort of Your cabin! Or choose a different setting for every corner!

Enjoy the pics.!

Anton
Hey Anton, looking at that sway bar set up makes me think the blades would rotate as the sway bar moves through it's normal range of motion since the adjuster cable housing is clipped to the body. Might provide some funky front action. Additionally, the bar is HUGE.
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post #124 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-02-2015, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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re: sway bar...

You are correct.... Never thought of this. Not good at geometry....

The bar is huge. Another case of over-enthusiasm... It is 1.25", but only .09 wall. The links are not in the stock location, either...

I run a rear sway bar, as well, since I run a Quaife Torsen LSD. The overall balance of the car was not bad. Need a smaller front and maybe downsize the rear bar (it is only .625).

Anton

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Hey Anton, looking at that sway bar set up makes me think the blades would rotate as the sway bar moves through it's normal range of motion since the adjuster cable housing is clipped to the body. Might provide some funky front action. Additionally, the bar is HUGE.
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post #125 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-02-2015, 02:47 PM
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Anton,
in your pictures of the manifold, I can see its a very straight design directly into the turbo, Im not sure how much stronger inconel is but that is a very long moment arm. I would be surprised if it doesnt start cracking heavily at the manifold flange. What have you done to support the turbos weight?

Also, do you have any trouble with intercooler air flow? How do you get enough flow through it apart from the addition of the fan? Is the body work enough to suck air through it?
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post #126 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-02-2015, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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re: Manifold

The manifold should not be supporting the turbo. In my case, the turbo hangs off my rear sub-frame. Slip-joints and v-band is used to absorb any play. Engineis mounted solid, also. There is no load on manifold flange or the head.

I had problems with intercooler airflow, before I installed the fans. There definitely was not enough. Installed fans and air-dammed the area around them and the intake air filter. My scoops are wider, because the body is wider, also. No problems, since, even on the dyno with limited airflow. I do not think that the problem is with the scoops, but with the (too) high-pressure area in the engine compartment. There is not enough to pull the air through a large intercooler.

Anton

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Anton,
in your pictures of the manifold, I can see its a very straight design directly into the turbo, Im not sure how much stronger inconel is but that is a very long moment arm. I would be surprised if it doesnt start cracking heavily at the manifold flange. What have you done to support the turbos weight?

Also, do you have any trouble with intercooler air flow? How do you get enough flow through it apart from the addition of the fan? Is the body work enough to suck air through it?
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post #127 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-02-2015, 08:01 PM
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awesome. Yeh sorry I couldnt see the support method for the turbo charger and didnt know that you solid mounted the engine, the sunspeed stuff is usually similar to the stock mounts haha. Really curious to see some more pictures specifically of the turbo and pipe routing through the intercooler and inlet manifold.
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post #128 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-02-2015, 08:26 PM
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Amazing build, enjoy the rocket!
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post #129 of 150 (permalink) Old 08-14-2015, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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Steering Wheel play

I noticed some play in my steering wheel. It is not from the rack or the arms or the u-joints....

Whatever bushing is in the stock lotus steering column that holds the shaft is loose.

I have not been able to find any notes on dis-assembly. I have not found any notes about this problem...

The problem does not appear to be critical, but annoying....

Help! Please!

Anton
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post #130 of 150 (permalink) Old 08-14-2015, 09:45 PM
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There is a bushing the pushes the rack against the pinion. That might be worn/loose and can cause some slop.

There is also a spring that pushes the bushing against the rack, that should provide constant pressure, but springs give out from time to time.

https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f259...3/#post1488513


If it is not in the rack, but higher in the column, then it could be the mounting point, or a bushing, or it could be the collapsible column is broken...


Take a look here
http://www.lotusforum.be/TO-DOWNLOAD...ering%20HF.pdf
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post #131 of 150 (permalink) Old 08-21-2015, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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re: Steering wheel play

It is not the rack and pinion gear. It is definitely in the column. The column is bolted down very well. I will check, if it managed to collapse....
Are there any serviceable bushings inside the column? This is what it really feels like. Neither the .pdf or the diagram shows any internal parts in the column.

Anton

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Originally Posted by Vulcan Grey View Post
There is a bushing the pushes the rack against the pinion. That might be worn/loose and can cause some slop.

There is also a spring that pushes the bushing against the rack, that should provide constant pressure, but springs give out from time to time.

https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f259...3/#post1488513


If it is not in the rack, but higher in the column, then it could be the mounting point, or a bushing, or it could be the collapsible column is broken...


Take a look here
http://www.lotusforum.be/TO-DOWNLOAD...ering%20HF.pdf
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post #132 of 150 (permalink) Old 08-22-2015, 02:21 AM
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There is a very light weight bearing just behind the steering wheel...







That bearing has a OD = 35mm

ID = 19mm

Width = 7mm

I want to make a light weight end without the steering lock. I've already designed it...I've got a STP file, but I have not machined it yet.



If and when you find a source for those bearings, share it with me...

Last edited by boxershorts; 08-22-2015 at 02:31 AM.
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post #133 of 150 (permalink) Old 08-22-2015, 01:54 PM
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Garage
I also had play in my wheel . On disassembly found it was the small bearing as shown by "Boxershorts"
Travelling at present and I can't recall the bearing Part Number... but it was easy to source from a local bearing shop.
I ended up rebuilding the" upper column assembly" of the steering arm ... I pretty much destroyed the OEM unit in disassembly ... its well built !!
I dont have an actual pic of what I fabricated.. but looks very similar to this ..
Still the same length as the OEM upper column and uses the OEM steering shaft so that it connects to the" Intermediate" column in the same way as OEM.


[IMG][/IMG]
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post #134 of 150 (permalink) Old 08-23-2015, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
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re: Steering wheel play

CPH and Boxershorts;

Thank You Very Much.

A picture of a disassembled column is what I was looking for...

I am happy to hear that I am not alone with this problem. Surprised that that roller bearing is so fragile.... Load capacity should be around 900lbs or less... So not too hard to imagine a (I am joking about myself here) 250lbs guy holding on for his dear life at 2G's + whatever force is exerted by the fat guy, approaching this limit.

I had trouble finding the bearing on the internet in the 10 minutes I spent looking. McMaster does not have it.... There is all kinds of information stamped on it. Nachi is the manufacturer (good Japanese firm), it was made in Spain... I cannot read the part number on the pic. Would You post it, please? This is a common industrial part, so should be easy to find... A bushing would be better in this application, however.

I am faced with the same decision:

1. I can dump the column. Re-use the shaft and mount it in racing fashion.
2. re-build the column.
3. Buy a used column and hope I did not buy my problem back.

I use this in a race car, so no lock and no signal stalks.... Forget how much that column weighs... Is it a worthwhile weight saving to dump it?

Thank You,

Anton
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post #135 of 150 (permalink) Old 08-23-2015, 08:34 AM
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Very hard to read... but it looks like 19DC03S3

since it is a 19 ID and a 35 OD, it could be 19DC035B

but standard width of a 19mm ID with a 35mm OD is 11mm wide... I could just change my design to accept the standard width...
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post #136 of 150 (permalink) Old 08-23-2015, 08:42 AM
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CPH and Boxershorts;

Thank You Very Much.

A picture of a disassembled column is what I was looking for...

I am happy to hear that I am not alone with this problem. Surprised that that roller bearing is so fragile.... Load capacity should be around 900lbs or less... So not too hard to imagine a (I am joking about myself here) 250lbs guy holding on for his dear life at 2G's + whatever force is exerted by the fat guy, approaching this limit.

I had trouble finding the bearing on the internet in the 10 minutes I spent looking. McMaster does not have it.... There is all kinds of information stamped on it. Nachi is the manufacturer (good Japanese firm), it was made in Spain... I cannot read the part number on the pic. Would You post it, please? This is a common industrial part, so should be easy to find... A bushing would be better in this application, however.

I am faced with the same decision:

1. I can dump the column. Re-use the shaft and mount it in racing fashion.
2. re-build the column.
3. Buy a used column and hope I did not buy my problem back.

I use this in a race car, so no lock and no signal stalks.... Forget how much that column weighs... Is it a worthwhile weight saving to dump it?

Thank You,

Anton
I just about destroyed that cast aluminum housing on the end...drilling off the heads of the sheared off heads is a royal PITA!!!! You don't have straight access to drill them off. Once drilled off, I pulled off the housing and removed the remainder of the screws with visegrips.
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post #137 of 150 (permalink) Old 08-23-2015, 08:58 AM
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post #138 of 150 (permalink) Old 08-29-2015, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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re: Loose steering column

Thank You.

Ping me when you start machining that part. I will make up my mind about what to to then... Maybe ask You to make one for me to lower our cost, please.

I have more pressing issues to attend to before winter comes here! (see below)

Anton

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post #139 of 150 (permalink) Old 08-29-2015, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Broken CV

I went to Cayuga, TMP, yesterday.

Met Barry and his car, together! Great car!

Warmed up the car. Waited for initial rush of traffic to clear and started putting together some good laps...

I got caught by someone doing what seemed like 10mph on the track. Got frustrated, since had to wait till passing zone and the other driver was totally freaked out... Had to downshift to first (which I never do on the track) so I would not stall.

Got around him and gunned it down the main straight. I forgot that I was still in 1st. When the engine got on cam and boost, in a split second... I had a quick bounce off the rev limiter and no power to the wheels (I run a Quife). I thought, I busted my Quiufe sequiential...

Broke outer CV on the laden side coming into the front straight. It was a DriveShaftShop 600hp custom piece... I never intended to use 1st in anger... and here is the expected result.... Will probably keep the same CV. After all, it probably acted as a fuse that prevented me from blowing up the sequential tranny!

Anton
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post #140 of 150 (permalink) Old 08-29-2015, 03:17 PM
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What a drag. Saw you stranded out there. Let's hope the next time I see you the car can be used in anger. The few times I saw you down the straight were really impressive.
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