1986-88 Bosch CIS K-Jetronic injected Esprit specific items - Page 2 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #21 of 258 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Hey, Atwell,
What thermostat do you have in your Bosch injected car. Would switching to 180F thermo foul-up the engine management (lambda) function?
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post #22 of 258 (permalink) Old 07-20-2011, 08:47 AM
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There are temperature controlled valves and switches so you should use the correct thermostat as specified for your year, make, and model. If the engine does not reach it's proper operating temperature the temperature sensitive switches and valves may not be in the correct operating mode. Also running too cold can reduce your fuel economy and increase blow-by and emissions. Too hot and you reduce the running clearances of the rings, and bearings. Cold is safer than hot but for best performance you should be where the manufacturer has engineered the motor to be.
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post #23 of 258 (permalink) Old 07-21-2011, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by MRDANGERUS View Post
Hey, Atwell,
What thermostat do you have in your Bosch injected car. Would switching to 180F thermo foul-up the engine management (lambda) function?
On a Bosch car there is not as much effect from cooler running as with the later GM MPFI Esprits. Still, I'd stay with stock. With the age of our injectors, a little extra warmth will help a marginal injector atomize the fuel.

I still run the OE spec, 82 degree C. thermostat. (When it's not malfunctioning! ) I'm gonna have to change it AGAIN before winter.

My mechanic has indicated that there is a 74 degree C thermostat available. I'd have to read the Service Notes again on what happens after the Bosch system senses certain coolant temperatures.

Atwell Haines
'88 Esprit
Succasunna, NJ USA


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post #24 of 258 (permalink) Old 07-22-2011, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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post #25 of 258 (permalink) Old 08-05-2011, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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D-WUR update.
Anyone considering fitting UTCIS unit is adviced to do away with Lucas 14AB ignition amplifier and convert to Pertronix Ignitor LU-142A.
Unfortunately, 14AB type ignition does not work with digital WUR.

The other way is to go with Greddy's Rebic IV unit connected between the fuel distributor Control Pressure side and the return line to the fuel tank. It would control frequency valve which varies the control pressure at the fuel distributor. This set up uses MAP and rpm signals together with frequency valve settings to create a smooth Air/Fuel ratio troughout the entire rpm range.


http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/Rebic_IV.pdf

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post #26 of 258 (permalink) Old 08-19-2011, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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1986, 1987, 1988 US Federal Turbo turbocharger unit specs.


88-92 Service Parts List shows Lotus PN# C910E6372F for US Federal cars. External waste gate.
Garrett T3, turbo TCO 301;
cold side A/R=0.42
Turbine side= ???

Table below, shows British version of
88 Esprit 2.2/16v has A910E6959FA2, which is same sa the later cars with TBO 373's.

CATERPILLAR TURBOCHARGER
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post #27 of 258 (permalink) Old 08-28-2011, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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The Turbocharger on the USA Turbos with Bosch K Injection (86,87 & 88) are Garrett T3
Lotus Part No. C910E6372F (Listed in Lotus Parts Book)
Specification as follows :-

0.63 A/R Turbine
0.42 Comp
55 Trim Comp Wheel
Boost set at 0.66 Bar

The European cars from 88 MY (X180 Intro) had a Garrett T3 with 'Integral Wastegate'.
Lotus Part No. A910E6889F (Listed in Parts Book)
Specification as follows :-

0.63 A/R Turbine
0.42 Comp
55 Trim Comp Wheel
Boost set at 0.66 Bar

Thanks to Brian Angus at Lotus Hethel for the above info.
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post #28 of 258 (permalink) Old 08-29-2011, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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K-Jetronic Esprit X180 turbocharger upgrades

LOTUS ESPRIT - TURBOCHARGER UPGRADES

From 1980-87, Lotus used the T3 turbocharger. It has .63 a/r turbine and .42 a/r compressor and EXTERNAL WASTEGATE.
It can be upgraded to compressor with super 60 a/r
like this one: http://www.mjmturbos...LotusTc0301.htm
When buying, you must specify if your turbo has an external wastegate.

Then from 1988-95, Lotus used also T3, but with an INTEGRAL WASTEGATE.
The upgrade looks like this
http://www.mjmturbos...worth-Lotus.jpg

Then all V8 has twin turbo but using smaller turbo than the above.
They used a Garrett T25 which could be upgraded to T28 instead of T25.
It looks like this http://www.mjmturbos...8hYBRIDt04B.htm

For info and questions see:
http://www.mjmturbos...urbolicious.htm
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post #29 of 258 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 06:42 AM Thread Starter
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Tanks flush procedure

Gasoline with ethanol is very corrosive and our tanks are 23 years old. I have 88 Turbo myself. They are very nice and Bosch CIS K-Jetronic injection system is pretty reliable, BUT this system is v. sensitive to contamination and pressure interruptions.
1. Find out how to safely jack up and support the Esprit (LotusEspritWorld.com)
2. Lift the rear of the car, [always use solid 4-legged or round base (NEVER tri-pod type) stands under the rr knuckles].
3. Remove the plastic underbelly pan
4. At the passenger side, under the tank, you will see your primary (black) and secondary(bright aluminum, toward the front) pumps, accumulator (green) and fuel filter (behind the pumps). There is a round 3-3.5" round hole in the fiberglass body, just under the tank. You will see the head of the fuel tank plug (13mm socket).
5. Get a helper to turn the ignition key on.
Lay down under the pumps and listen useing mechanic's ststoscope. Slight humming/buzzing=good pump. Grinding noise or no noise at all=bad pump.
Usually the primary pump sucks the rust from the tank and craps out.
I had to rebuild the black (primary)pump.
Also, the filter was full of this fine rust "soup". It has to be replaced with Purolator F64857 (for SAAB 900 Turbo) or Bosch.
Look for any leaks from the back of the accumulator=bad diaphragm. If you see even a single drop, you'll need a new accumulator.
Before you disconnect any pumps you have to drain and flush the tanks and install a pre-filter BEFORE the primary pump. Lotus engineers screwed-up royally. They put the filter after the secondary pump, in front of the accumulator. Pumps are not protected against grit and rust from the tanks.
5. Get a helper, couple 5 gal clean buckets and 3-4 smaller (2-3gal) buckets and open the plug. Beware! Gas and sludge will come fast at you! Rotate buckets.
During this operation the battery must be disconnected and you must not have any live extension cords on the floor. Use long kitchen/cleaning gloves, use only flashlights and not hand held inspection lights=safety first!
6.De-sediment gas -let it stand for 15 minutes. Strain it.
Fill up 2.5-3 gal gas can which has a wide throat and sizable spigot.
7. Place a large container under the open plug at the right tank and rapidly dump the whole can of gas into the LEFT tank. Repeat until gas looks like it supposed to look-almost clear.
8. Repeat the same at least once pouring gas into the RH tank.
9. Close the plug and loosen the cross pipe between the tanks. dump couple cansinj each tank to drive the grit from the pipe.
10. Do not fill the tanks, leave them dry for the time you'll be working on the pumps, filters,ect.
Remember, this is a temporary measure. Once tanks start rusting, you have to repeat this procedure every year. Never store your car over the winter with tank full of gas containing ethanol. It will speed up the corrosion process!
Here is the list of ethanol free gas stations: Ethanol-free gas stations in MD
Find one close to you and always store car for winter withtank full of "good" non-ethanol gas.
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post #30 of 258 (permalink) Old 10-17-2011, 08:21 AM
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The Lotus engineers did not screw up. Typically you do not have a pump suck through a fine filter. The filters that are "pre pump" are just to keep the big junk out of the pump. Fine filtering is done after the pump where you can get a lot of pressure so when the filter loads up it can last longer with more dirt. Pumps are considered a wearable item so they are not intended to last forever. Even fuel tanks were not designed to last 30 years! And high alcohol content was not even considered in the fuel. If the tank is rusting eventually it will leak. The only fix is to remove the tank and have it cleaned and sealed. When I see that it is usually towards the top of the tank where all of the moisture precipitates out of the air. BTW when the filter on the suction side of the pump gets clogged the pump will run dry. That wears it out even faster so how is the filter "protecting" the pump?
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post #31 of 258 (permalink) Old 01-27-2012, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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CLEANING CIS INJECTORS

If you have any doubts about your ability to do this safely, don't do it.
You can clean CIS injectors very easily. You put a piece of fuel injection hose onto the threads of the injector. Make the piece of hose about a foot long maybe a bit more. Be sure to clamp it tightly to the injector. Now fill the hose with injector cleaner. Stick the end of the air blower nozzle and use about 60-85 psi to blow the fuel injector cleaner through the injector. Repeat about four or five times for each injector. Be sure the spray isn't at anything flammable or dangerous. Berryman Products Inc 0113C B-12 Parts Cleaner works very well.

If your injectors aren't worn out from all the years of use. This procedure will clean them up. But K-jet injectors do physically wear out and need to be replaced.

Please let me know if anyone knows the substitute for Bosch 0437502031 CIS OE injectors.
Thanx

LOTUS 2.2L, 4 cyl, TURBO ENGINE
AIR&FUEL FLOW at [email protected],500rpm, 50C MIT, 31Hg, NC=90%, 7psi boost
Air flow=385 CFM (10,914LPM)
Air mass=12357g/min (1640lb/h)
Fuel Flow at AFR=12.5, BSFC=0.6
@DR=1.47 (7 psi boost)
131 lb/h (1378cc/m)
HP=218
REQ’D INJECTOR FLOW
@ System Press= 72-75 psi (5 Bar), CIS IDC=100%
33 lb/hr (345cc/min)
*****
AIR&FUEL FLOW at [email protected],500rpm, 50C MIT, 31Hg, NC=90%, 10psi boost
Air flow= 440 CFM (12,474LPM)
Air mass=14123g/min (1875lb/h)
Fuel Flow at AFR=12.5, BSFC=0.6
@ DR=1.68 (10psi boost)
150lb/hr (1575cc/min)
HP=255
REQ’D INJECTOR FLOW
@ System Press= 72-75 psi (5 Bar), CIS IDC=100%
38.5lb/hr (400cc/min)

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post #32 of 258 (permalink) Old 01-28-2012, 08:07 AM
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Your "procedure" to clean the injectors won't work any better than just putting some Techron into a tank of fuel and running the motor. The only way I know of to properly clean the injectors is with the injector/tester. I have been able to clean many injectors and to date have not had to replace any that were not cleanable. BTW, when you do clean injectors with the cleaner/tester, you use paint thinner. Less volatile than fuel but the same viscosity so the test results are reflective of using gasoline. Most Volvo dealers have a cleaner/tester and probably would not charge much to do a set. Just bring the specs so they can properly test it. My experience has been with the Bosch K Jet in the Delorean which although similar, has some differences. I have not seen a "worn out" injector yet but there are tiny screens inside them and there is no way to remove and clean it so, Yes, it is possible to "wear out" and injector by filling it with dirt. If you want to send me your injectors I can clean them for you.
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post #33 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 06:40 PM Thread Starter
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SAFETY ITEM-REPLACE 25 YR OLD HOSES

In the last decade, things started going downhill. Fuel chemistry has changed radically since the original hose was developed to resist high-octane aviation gas and jet fuels. Street gas was reformulated with weird additives and oxygenates. Reformulated gas can have up to 15 percent ethanol, and E85 (85 percent ethanol) is common in the Midwest. It's gotten to the point where there's at least 23 different regional street gas blends. The brew can also vary seasonally, and not every state imposes strict quality controls in the first place. Some blends have caused minimal problems, but others-particularly those with ethanol and other abrasive additives-cause drastic rubber compound degradation.
Although not as bad as street gas, many leaded, competition-only gas blends now have aggressive additives, that-while still allowing the blend to pass a sanctioning body's fuel check-are almost as caustic as alcohol fuels.
Whether with street or race gas, deterioration is accelerated when the car sits for a length of time. Some experts recommend purging the system, while others caution that the hose may dry rot if it doesn't remain wet. Knowing what to do is a real crapshoot. Definitely don't expect that bulk rubber-core racing hose bought years ago to still be viable even if it has just been sitting in storage. All rubber-based hose has a finite shelf life.
EFI Raises the Bar
Electronic fuel injection systems introduced yet more issues. Compared with carbureted systems, high-volume recirculation fuel injection setups have a serious effect on rubber-core hose due to the much greater amount of surface footage and volumes of fuel passing through them. Fuel returning to the tank on a recirculation-type system gets aerated, souring the gas and accelerating hose degradation because of increased oxidation and leaching of the tube elastomer. Additionally, more heat is transferred into the gas tank by fuel returning from the engine compartment, heating the fuel overall and further accelerating hose degradation. Today's engine compartments are also much hotter-at times approaching 400 degrees F-which impacts under hood hose big time. And fuel injection nozzles are easily clogged by rubber particles breaking loose from hose deteriorating on the inside.
Fuel vapors also permeate through rubber hose. If your car sits in an enclosed garage, that fuel-like smell is partially vapor evaporating through the hose.
If you just want reasonable longevity at a modest cost without regard to appearance, the budget, parts store solution is hose meeting SAE standard J30R9 or (just becoming available) the further improved J30R12. Although these hoses can operate at up to 180 psi, what really makes them better than generic parts store hoses are the improved materials they're made from, designed for contact with alcohols, diesel, oxygenate additives, and oxidized gas. Although the outer walls are usually still hydrogenated nitrile butadiene rubber (HNBR) or CPE, internally there's a thin fluoroelastomer, FKM, or Viton core. Collectively, the design also resists cracking caused by sour gas and reduces emissions because fuel can't evaporate through the hose. XRP is said to be working on a braided racing hose conforming to SAE J30R9 that may eventually replace traditional CPE-cored formulations. This would offer significantly improved durability but still keep down the price of race hose. We'll keep you updated on XRP's progress. While J30R9 is better than old-school fuel hose, like any rubber-based hose, it, too, eventually deteriorates. In fact, domestic OE new-car manufacturers have pretty much switched to Teflon-based hoses

Read more: Performance Fuel Hoses - Hot Rod Magazine
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post #34 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 06:36 AM
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In many respects the gasoline sold today is better than what was sold years ago. Much better quality control, less moisture, and less dirt. Better additives and oxygenates. In other respects it is worse, especially for older cars where the fuel system materials were never intended for such a high alcohol content or other additives. It also does not work well in carbureated cars and does not store well for long periods of time. Like it or not we have to configure our cars to run on it as best as we can, you have to figure it is only going to get worse. One of the first steps is to have the fuel tanks cleaned and sealed so they won't deteriorate and rust causing leaks and dirt to plug up the fuel system. Never store the car with fuel in it.
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post #35 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 12:54 PM
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So what do you guys recommend for TODAY?

I'll be replacing all the herring-bone fuel (vapor) hose while my engine is out. Seems as if NONE of the hose-ends were tight (my car still had the OE plastic clamps on the ends instead of proper hose clamps as in MRDANGERUS' pictures)

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'88 Esprit
Succasunna, NJ USA


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post #36 of 258 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Get rid of the plastic clamps. Oil and high temperatures deteriorate plastic very fast. As a replacement for the old "food grade" vent hoses over the right hand tank I would use 3/8" ID fuel hose SAE spec J30R7, NAPA-stock (no pressure in da hoses, just vapour). If you use SAE J30R9 spec or higher they will last forever.
For tightness of the joints at the locations which I will never need disconnecting I'd use crimp (cinch, PEX) clamps. Just invest in good crimper pliers. Clamps cost pennies.
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post #37 of 258 (permalink) Old 03-14-2012, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Remote waste-gate specs question.

I'd like to poll the owners of the Bosch CIS injected US "Federal" Turbos about their wastegates
Could you please check your remote Air Research wastegate (metal) plaque and tell me what does it say?
Apparently, there is some mix-up/discrepancy on US Federal Turbos.
Lotus Notes lists Maximum Boost of 9.5psi (0.65 Bar), but in real life, most of the w-gates on our cars are rated only 7 psi (0.47 Bar).
Has anyone tested their w-gate activation pressure?
Friend of mine asked me this question and upon a close inspection
I found that a non-standard waste-gate had been fitted on my car; 7psi
instead of 9.5psi.
IMO, it is possible to correct the low 7 psi wastegate to assure full 9.5-10 psi of boost.
My w-gate has a metal plaque which says it is a 7 psi (0.47 Bar) gate, which is below the advertised 0.65 Bar spec (as per Lotus Notes specifications)

Is it possible that US "Federal" Bosch injected Turbos wastegate specs were lowered or de-tuned? Why? Low octane gas in US? Fear of detonation?
OR..., may be Lotus just used whatever surplus parts they could get that week?


Good book on CIS INjection: Bosch Fuel Injection and Engine Management: How to Understand, Service and Modify [Paperback]
Charles O. Probst, ISBN-10: 0837603005
This book is geared not to the performance enthusiast, but to the veteran trouble-shooter and D.I.Y. home mechanic. Wonderfully clear briefs and specific testing procedures. In-depth theory and operation. Does not pretend nor try to cover specific data of all cars. This is the big picture, and then disected component by component. I found using the book with the factory manual worked best.

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post #38 of 258 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Intake Plenum Volumetric Expander, finally installed this weekend.
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post #39 of 258 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRDANGERUS View Post
I'd like to poll the owners of the Bosch CIS injected US "Federal" Turbos about their wastegates
Could you please check your remote Air Research wastegate (metal) plaque and tell me what does it say?
Apparently, there is some mix-up/discrepancy on US Federal Turbos.
Lotus Notes lists Maximum Boost of 9.5psi (0.65 Bar), but in real life, most of the w-gates on our cars are rated only 7 psi (0.47 Bar).
[snip]
Read this posting awhile back,but could never find the location. Here's my 88 Esprit's wastegate plaque:



While not quite 9.5 PSI, it's about 9 PSI (0.60 bar) in this photo:


Eddie B
87 Esprit 'SLEEK GT'
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post #40 of 258 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 05:16 PM
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Tell me again what you expect that spacer block (AKA Volumetric Expander) to do for ya.



Atwell Haines
'88 Esprit
Succasunna, NJ USA


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