1986-88 Bosch CIS K-Jetronic injected Esprit specific items - Page 6 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #101 of 253 (permalink) Old 08-09-2014, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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post #103 of 253 (permalink) Old 10-01-2014, 08:02 AM
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Turbo extension housing question for clarity

Over on LotusChat you said:

84-88 Turbo cars have an extension/adapter between the turbo and a down pipe flange, (waste gate mixing chamber), which is not a part of the turbocharger.

On the 89 and later parts, Lotus deleted the extension and incorporated it into the turbocharger.

That adapter creates a choke point (only 1.8" dia!) and can not be machined larger.


Are you saying the adapter or extension on the 1984 - 1988 turbos cannot be machined larger or are you talking about the part that was incorporated into the 1989 and up turbos cannot be machined larger? Which one is only 1.8 inches in diameter and creates a choke point?

Steven DuChene
1974 Jensen-Healey w/Lotus 2.0L 907 with EFI & crankfired Ignition conversion
1985 Jaguar XJS 4.0L w/Getrag 5spd
1990 Lotus Esprit SE w/AWI monoblock wheels (wrecked)
1988 Lotus Esprit Turbo w/SE bodywork and burnt pistons
1988 Lotus Esprit Anniversary Edition w/Megasquirt EFI (NO CIS!)
1974 Lotus Elite (12th USA car off line)
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post #104 of 253 (permalink) Old 10-01-2014, 12:06 PM
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Better late than never.

Fuel pump wiring diagram for the 86-87 CIS cars
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File Type: pdf Fuel Pump Wiring.pdf (15.4 KB, 132 views)

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Ex-Owner- 1987 HCi #905
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post #105 of 253 (permalink) Old 10-02-2014, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenD57 View Post
Over on LotusChat you said:

84-88 Turbo cars have an extension/adapter between the turbo and a down pipe flange, (waste gate mixing chamber), which is not a part of the turbocharger.

On the 89 and later parts, Lotus deleted the extension and incorporated it into the turbocharger.

That adapter creates a choke point (only 1.8" dia!) and can not be machined larger.


Are you saying the adapter or extension on the 1984 - 1988 turbos cannot be machined larger or are you talking about the part that was incorporated into the 1989 and up turbos cannot be machined larger? Which one is only 1.8 inches in diameter and creates a choke point?
I meant the adapter/extension on the 1984 - 1988 turbos cannot be machined larger, the wall of the inner passage is too thin. It is actually 1.9" I.D. not 1.8", my mistake.
First picture shows the turbo side, the second - down pipe side. The inner pipe wall thickness is only 2.8mm.

If larger turbo is intended, the new extension has to be made and the waste-gate mixing port have to be relocated.(Pic. Source: Loren Stump)
.
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Last edited by MRDANGERUS; 10-05-2014 at 06:19 AM.
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post #106 of 253 (permalink) Old 10-04-2014, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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post #107 of 253 (permalink) Old 10-04-2014, 12:17 PM
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Are you considering a serpentine belt system for a four-cylinder Lotus????


Going along with that, an AOD pulley (on the aux pulley, perhaps) might be a cool thing for the timing belt, but I've only seen them fitted to accessory pulleys...

Litens OAD Decoupler Pulleys

Atwell Haines
'88 Esprit
Succasunna, NJ USA


"Not all angels have wings." - Turbo R
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post #108 of 253 (permalink) Old 10-04-2014, 01:37 PM
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Mr D.

That header/turbo system...

Is this something you custom made? Looks amazing! Please tell me more about this set up if it has already not been posted. The four into one look quite narrow.

Robert
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post #109 of 253 (permalink) Old 10-25-2014, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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post #110 of 253 (permalink) Old 10-27-2014, 01:47 PM
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Here's the whole system before wrapping.
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post #111 of 253 (permalink) Old 11-30-2014, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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X180 External waste-gate renovation.

External waste-gate was made by NormaiAir-Garrett Manufacturing, Melbourne, Australia. Originally, it was made for aviation industry (hard to believe, it weighs a ton!).
Faulty w/g may lead to poor performance or even the engine destruction. See https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f164...-issue-121943/

After 25 years of service this part needs to be refurbished and improved.

The easiest way to remove it (at least for me), is a partial disassembly on the vehicle.
-Slacken 4 M6 bolts (10 mm heads) along the rim to get a 3-4mm gap, paying particular attention not to tear the diaphragm. Use a plastic spatula (piece of rounded off Visa charge card), to separate diaphragm lip from the lower half.
-Next, support the lower half with a piece of wood (contoured to the outside of the lower bowl) and a floor jack.
-Remove 4 bolts and slowly lower the lower bowl.
-Wiggle out the spring from the aluminum dish/locator and put it aside.
-Carefully remove the shiny aluminum spacer ring***.
Use WD-40 to separate the silicone diaphragm from the rim, CAREFULLY.
Diaphragm is held in place with a large alloy disc at the top; "dish" retainer and two "Fuji-Lock" nuts at the bottom.
Use two open end wrenches to slacken two Fuji nuts. Never put any strain on the diaphragm.

Clean and examine the diaphragm for any tears/damage. Mine started melting down due to exhaust gases blow-by.
Remove remnants of the old paper (!!!) gasket(s), which, by now, turned into flakes of charcoal.
Make 2 new ring gaskets using 0.3 mm Graphoil substrate (from the eBay). Diaphragm insulation will be discussed later.

To evaluate the radial gap of the poppet valve move the stem side to side by hand. Any significant movement necessitates re-sleeving.

To remove the housing, remove the boost signal line (17/32" or 13.5 mm wrench), turbo oil return line (2x10mm head bolts) and break two large nuts (PITA!). To make it easier, soak everything overnight with CRC Screwloose penetrating oil.
Next, make a special tool by grinding a 17 mm ring wrench. It has to be thin enough to clear the end of the large mounting studs.

Once two large nuts are loose, remove your special tool and continue with an open end stubby and crowfoot extension wrench. When nuts bottom out on the housing flange, keep going, alternating the sides to keep the housing leveled.
Nuts will pull the housing out of the header extension bore. Do not use any crow bars or chisels.

Last photo:
Please notice the signs of diaphragm "melting" due to the excessive thermal stress caused by gas blow-by and lack of adequate insulation gasket, (paper won't work well at 700F!).

*** These rings were added to re-calibrate the boost level at which the w/g opens. Proper length of the spring should be 105-110mm.
Normally, it happens at 7-7.5 psig with the ring, and at 9-9.5 psig without it.
Majority of 84-87 (and some 88') Turbos had their boost restricted to 7.5psig by the means of installing an aluminum spacer ring between two halves of the waste gate.
There was an issue in the early turbo cars, which had to do with the (early, cast) pistons crowning and causing excessive clearances causing hot blow-by contributing to the ring land failure resulting in broken rings/ pistons. HCI and later cars received forged Mahle pistons, which solved the problem.
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Last edited by MRDANGERUS; 12-11-2014 at 10:22 AM.
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post #112 of 253 (permalink) Old 11-30-2014, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
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Once you remove the housing successfully, take it (and valve) to a reputable machine shop to press in a 3/8" ID steel guide with an internal spiral groove, which prevents a blow by.
Guide spec: Valve guide, hard, spiral, ERS 02282
If you want yours re-sleeved, call (231) 946-0595 and talk to Mark. They have sleeves and machines to do the job right!
My new stem to guide clearance is 0.007".

I was advised against using bronze, which may not survive a long term harsh environment (no cooling jacket !).

Stem is hard chromed and it should not have any significant wear, but check the valve stem diameter in couple spots.
DO NOT attempt to grind the stem!

Total cost under $100.
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post #113 of 253 (permalink) Old 12-10-2014, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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Re-assembly.
Make a couple of gaskets to insulate the diaphragm from the hot housing flange and the stem.
I used "Graphoil" gasket material from the eBay.
There are two of them, one on the "hot" side (0.030" thick), and a second one (0.010") at the bottom.
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Last edited by MRDANGERUS; 12-27-2014 at 09:02 AM.
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post #114 of 253 (permalink) Old 12-27-2014, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the banjo fitting connecting waste gate to the AEM TRU-BOOST 30-4350 Gauge-Type Electronic Turbo Boost Controller solenoid.

.
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Last edited by MRDANGERUS; 01-18-2015 at 08:07 PM.
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post #115 of 253 (permalink) Old 01-01-2015, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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COLORTUNE - an Ubiquitous Diagnostic/Tuning Tool for CIS engines

COLORTUNE is a test spark plug with a glass top, which enables observation of the inside of the combustion chamber.

As different fuel/air ratios burn, they display different colors. Adjust the fuel/air mixture until a deep blue flame is observed in each cylinder and your engine is optimally tuned.

This is especially important in CIS injected engines with Lambda sensor, (like federal specs Turbo Esprits). Each cylinder must receive the same exact amount of air/fuel mix. If there is a cylinder to cylinder imbalance, the O2 sensor cannot detect it and ECU can not compensate flow to the individual injectors (drawback of the CIS injection system).
See explanation in the posting #68 of this thread.


Gunson Kit part number: G4074
Colortune spark plug kit comes with hard copy of Gunsons comprehensive user manual.

How Colortune works
Combustion at its most efficient produces a clear blue flame, various other colors result from inefficient mixtures.

With COLORTUNE plug fitted in place of a spark plug, the flame is visible through the glass insulator.
This allows the tuner to observe the color of the flame and obtain greatest engine efficiency by adjusting the mixture screw at the AFM or individual cylinder screws at the fuel meter head.

A gas analyzer gives cumulative average reading of all cylinders, BUT no diagnosis of AFR of an individual cylinder.

Combustion flame appearance
The general appearance of the combustion flame when viewed through COLORTUNE is as follows:

Yellow Indicates a fuel / air mixture which have excessive petrol content (rich).
Bunsen Blue Indicates a mixture which has correct AFR
Whitish Blue Indicates a lean mixture

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post #116 of 253 (permalink) Old 01-06-2015, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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post #117 of 253 (permalink) Old 01-18-2015, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRDANGERUS View Post
I meant the adapter/extension on the 1984 - 1988 turbos cannot be machined larger, the wall of the inner passage is too thin. It is actually 1.9" I.D. not 1.8", my mistake.
First picture shows the turbo side, the second - down pipe side. The inner pipe wall thickness is only 2.8mm.

.
Correction:
If other than OE turbo is intended, the OE adapter can be chamfered at 45 and 30 degrees to accommodate 2.4" dia turbine exducer port. Inner pipe has to stay intact.
Although not an optimal solution, it is an alternative to building a new adapter from the scratch.
.
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post #118 of 253 (permalink) Old 02-04-2015, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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The Turbocharger on the USA Turbos with Bosch K Injection (86, 87 & 88) are Garrett T3, TC0301, Lotus Part No. C910E6372F (Listed in Lotus Parts Book)
Specification as follows :-
0.63 A/R Turbine, 1.80 turbine inducer,
0.42 Comp, 1.72 compressor inducer
55 Trim Comp Wheel
Boost set at 7psi (remote waste gate with "spacer" ring) and 9.5psi without the ring.


When looking for a replacement, you may find useful these interactive turbo calculators:

The inputs shown are the BW default inputs, so you have to enter your own numbers and estimates.
Performance Turbos | BorgWarner Turbo Systems
-click on the blue button to enter mach-bot

Personally, I like this one
Not2Fast: Turbo Calculator

Turbochargers | Turbobygarrett

CALCULATOR , TURBO MAPS http://www.squirrelpf.com/turbocalc/index.php

http://www.turbofast.com.au/javacalc.html

CATALOG http://www.turbotechnics.com/docs/catalogue.pdf

GARRET: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...productcatalog

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post #119 of 253 (permalink) Old 02-10-2015, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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Citroën Transmission parts and US local contacts

Manual Transmission is similar to 5-Speed DS transaxle. It is a fully synchromesh design with a spiral bevel (not hypoid) ring and pinion. Consequently, the transmission does not need GL5 oil and, in fact, because of the brass synchros, GL5 oil should be avoided in favor of GL4 oil. There have been reported incidences in which the 5th gear became loose on the output shaft, resulting in a failed transmission. To check this, remove the DIRAVI governor and the front cover. The spedometer drive gear (which holds the 5th gear in place) should be tightened to 200 ft-lbs and staked in place.

Concerning the guy in PA with all the Citroen tranny parts, that would be Brad Nauss. Brad is a source for anything about the DS and perhaps the SM. His web site is:
Home | Brad Nauss Automotive

The other source you might want to look into is Western Hemispheres:
http://westernhemispheres.com/
SM & Maserati, Engine & Gearbox

The one guy I can think of who really focuses on the SM would be Dennis Foley:
http://www.citroentechtips.com/

And finally, if you want to hear about pushing an SM to the extent of it's abilities, take a look at this:
Citroen SM World
Also Dave Burnham Citroën - Contact Us

Technical intel:
Transmission Oil - Citroen-SM-wiki
*
*

Last edited by MRDANGERUS; 02-15-2015 at 08:13 AM.
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post #120 of 253 (permalink) Old 02-10-2015, 09:19 PM
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FYI the Dennis Foley URL is broken. A Google search seems to go to inactivate links.

Eddie B
87 Esprit 'SLEEK GT'
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