88 Esprit Coolant Pipes - Diagram - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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88 Esprit Coolant Pipes - Diagram

Trying to figure out what I am working with here and I want to know what the original layout is so i don't go too far off the grid. The car was messed with prior to me getting it, but i think most of this is stock from what i can tell. What do i have wrong? TIA!
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 06:58 PM
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1. Cold coolant from the radiator, large hose attaches to the bottom of the water pump

2. Hot coolant return to the radiator from the top of the thermostat ("S" extension to "shepherds hook" pipe). The end of the hook pipe goes into the rubber hose on the picture
3. Heater core return
4. Heater core supply, it goes along the rh wall, behind the engine to the rear nipple of the cylinder head water jacket.
7 and 6 seem to be the same hose ? Yes, it goes to the bottom of the coolant overflow tank
8. Main vacuum line, attaches to the vacuum pump by the engine. Other end is attached to the brake booster nipple.

Last edited by MRDANGERUS; 12-02-2016 at 08:03 PM.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 04:38 AM Thread Starter
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Awesome! Thank you-
there is an AC line nipple barely in the pic that 6 is pointing to. Thought I would throw that in there in case someone in the future refers to the diagram.

Thanks MRDangeraus!
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 07:52 AM
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With the engine out of the way,
1. replace all questionable hoses and check tension on all clamps.

2. Replace or re-line (Re-Nu process) both fuel tanks. They will go bad, sooner or later. Ethanol in US gasoline eats trough the old anti-corrosion plating inside the tanks. Crucible of NO CHOICE!

3. Replace the mild steel x-car balance pipe between tanks. That's where all debris is collecting. Use 1"stainless or aluminum tube. If you go for aluminum, use only 5052 or 5086 Alloy.

4. To prevent overheating in the cyl 3 & 4 region, you should plumb in a heater matrix bypass for the cyl head rear coolant evacuation nipple.
You'll need two 1/2" PEX T-ee fittings and a section of 5/8" rubber hose with 90 deg bend.
Splice one Tee into the hose #20 and run the 5/8 hose along the RH wall and bulkhead toward the water pump. Splice the other Tee into the end of hose #12 and attach to the water pump heater matrix suction nipple. This fix makes head coolant circulation immune to the heater valve control position.
Your head will have 24/7 circulation and will never overheat!

5. Wrap chassis LH members with Dei reflective tape to prevent heat damage (close proximity to the header).
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Last edited by MRDANGERUS; 12-03-2016 at 06:32 PM.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRDANGERUS View Post

To mitigate cyl 3 & 4 overheating, you should plumb in a heater matrix bypass for the cyl head rear coolant evacuation nipple.
OR, simply keep the temp control knob 'cracked open' a little bit. Then coolant will always flow through the heater lines (but not enough to warm you during the summer) and that area of the engine will remain acceptably cool.

Atwell Haines
'88 Esprit
Succasunna, NJ USA


"Not all angels have wings." - Turbo R
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 05:04 PM
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Sorry to drag up an old thread but I'm not sure what I'm doing here. Can I just add a TEE and heater hose at the spot indicated on the edited picture below? (dark black line) If I am correct, thoughts on a 3/8 ID hose just to get some circulation but not to degrade heater operation in the winter?

Thanks in advance.
Rich
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-28-2019, 03:50 AM
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Hi Rich,

MRDangerUS provided clear directions about installing this bypass in Post 4 (item 4)


IMO you probably don't need that for street use. If and when you track the car, just leave the heater control on HOT to control/reduce cylinder 4 temps.

That is the easy way out.



<<<Waiting for rebuttal>>>

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'88 Esprit
Succasunna, NJ USA


"Not all angels have wings." - Turbo R
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-06-2019, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingo View Post
Sorry to drag up an old thread but I'm not sure what I'm doing here. Can I just add a TEE and heater hose at the spot indicated on the edited picture below? (dark black line) If I am correct, thoughts on a 3/8 ID hose just to get some circulation but not to degrade heater operation in the winter?

Thanks in advance.
Rich
Yes, you're right.
If you are concerned about freezing in winter, you may install a graduated valve in between two hoses.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-07-2019, 06:53 AM
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Thanks

If anyone wants to do as I am...

Here are the Tee's that I ordered. (you can get them cheaper elsewhere)

Thanks
Rich



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