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post #21 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Starting on the balance of the system for the charge cooler. Added a Bosch ~010 pump inboard of the right fuel tank.

3/4" ID Aluminum tubing up the tunnel, left side 3/4" heater hose passes from fuel pump area between bulkhead and frame to right side along the top of the frame rail.

Still looking for a bigger heat exchanger that will fit up front atop the OEM A/C condenser. Not much room there-
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1985 BRG Turbo Esprit
Chargecooled w/Megasquirt EFI
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post #22 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-09-2016, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Was having my doubts about my measurements when I looked at the chargecooler sitting atop the engine, but now I know that it fits under the engine cover. Not much to spare, maybe 3/4", but I'm not going to have to hack the cover.

A lot of wires and hoses for a 4 cylinder, it's starting to look like a '70's smog motor!
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post #23 of 52 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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On to the front of the car-

Not finding many options to fit in the 3/4" x 8" x 29" space in front of the A/C condenser, I made up a heat exchanger with a pair of Derale 15831 & 15302 oil coolers to test. I would of used two equal sized units, but the A/C hoses cramped the space available so this pair fits the space best.

Not the most efficient style of radiator, but the tube and plate units I found were for transmission, power steering or A/C condenser applications and had restrictive manifolds or small tubes that looked like they would restrict flow. The Derale units with 1/2" tubing could be run in parallel for more flow from my 3/4" coolant lines.

I spite of having plumbed my house with the stuff, I thought 1/2" copper fittings would join the 1/2" copper tubes from the coolers. I had to make some brass spacer tubes to solder the different OD and ID together.
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1985 BRG Turbo Esprit
Chargecooled w/Megasquirt EFI

Last edited by snowrx; 04-15-2016 at 08:33 AM.
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post #24 of 52 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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Plumbing-

Lower hose exits between the oil cooler lines with a 1/2" NPT to AN-12 elbow.

I needed to bump the oil cooler forward 1/8" to allow the exit fitting, so I epoxied up some plates to the tray that would relocate the mounting holes.

The upper hose exits the tray on the left side through a AN-12 bulkhead fitting that I turned down to a 3/4" hose barb, then into a 90 sweep to clear the horns.

Keeping my fingers crossed that I will see useful intake temperature drops across the charge cooler!
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post #25 of 52 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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More mid-engine complications- there were not many spots to mount a header tank for the charge cooler circuit that were higher than the CC itself so I ended up mounting a tank with an air bleed hose to the manifold flange.

If I did it again, I'd try to lay the tank on it's side directly on the CC assembly to get more of it's capacity above the fluid level in the unit.
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1985 BRG Turbo Esprit
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Last edited by snowrx; 04-17-2016 at 11:18 AM.
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post #26 of 52 (permalink) Old 04-17-2016, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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The chargecooler seems to work, it really shaves the peaks, (70C > 34C max) and a 12-18C drop most everywhere under light loads. Results are from one trip up and down the highway, while in steady cruise at various loads/rpms to map the VE tables. No full-on acceleration on any of this data. Red curve to left is long idle to operating temperature with no airflow over heat exchanger while checking warm-up enrichment. Still cooling even stationary with a warm radiator under the exchanger, which I did not expect.
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post #27 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 02:08 AM
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Interesting project.

I, my self, will install a Microsquirt in a 1984 Turbo Esprit.
Firstly due better ignition, but also want knocking control. Hence better go all the way.
However, I do plan on jenvey's throttle bodies with injector bungs.

How did you manage fuel pump connection. I consider making a new fuel tank to avoid air suction.

Have you so fare encounter any problem in having the =2 sensor that close to the turbo?

Thanks
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post #28 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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I just replaced the existing fuel pump with a high pressure one, like a Bosch 044 or Walbro 255 l/hr unit. With the tall stock gas tank and bottom feed to the pump, I did not bother with a surge tank. Just keep gas in the tank! I then replaced all the pressurized fuel lines with new stronger hose.

The Megasquirt has a fuel pump output that turns the fuel pump off after a short delay if the engine stops turning. I used this output to control a new relay fed from the existing fuel pump rollover (inertia) switch.

I can't report any problems with the O2 sensor placement. My Subaru has tens of thousands of miles with a wide band sensor at the turbo outlet so I just put the bung where it was easy to get to. I think the turbine takes out some of the heat energy, which helps protect the sensor. But I've seen warnings about it being to close, so I'd put it down the pipe a bit if I ever rework the exhaust.

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post #29 of 52 (permalink) Old 06-29-2016, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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While the engine was out I added some VDO temperature senders for oil and water. Someday I'm thinking I will redo the dashboard....
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post #30 of 52 (permalink) Old 06-29-2016, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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SailorBob has me thinking about better fuel injector geometry.
Newer 4 valve engines use a twin-spray design to aim the fuel streams more at the backs of the intake valves rather than down the middle of the port, which should help with vaporization and acceleration enrichment control by keeping the fuel off the port walls. My present injectors spray a 30 degree cone which hits the port wall almost before it enters the head.

These are sprays though, and described by largest percentages of fuel hitting a particular area, so aim is relative.

For my install I need 500-600cc injectors with a 15 degree spread and no bend from the injector axis. It's hard to find injectors with sufficient flow and proper geometry, but the closest I've found are some Bosch 0280 156 290 571cc EV6's, which have a 20 degree spread of the two 7 degree wide streams. These were used in some Polaris snowmobiles where the injector bung was right in the cylinder head intake port.

These are shorter than my present injectors, and a different impedence, so there will be some re-work before I can test these.
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post #31 of 52 (permalink) Old 06-29-2016, 01:55 PM
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nice project!
you can't find space for the CC header tank on the intake/air filter side of the engine? i imagine it would perform better if not absorbing heat from the exhaust
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post #32 of 52 (permalink) Old 06-30-2016, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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The best spot for the CC tank would probably be outside the engine compartment, maybe above/behind the gas tanks, but I did not want to drill more holes in the fiberglass to route the hoses, or limit access to the filler. I considered a larger tank lower in the system, but I'd still need air bleed hose(s) back to a high filler cap somewhere. I have a motorcycle remote filler/pressure cap that I wanted to use for that, but I went to get-it-done rather than get-it-right so I could move on and see if it even worked.

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post #33 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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So far, So good-

Even taking the weight vs. speed change though gearing calculated values with a shaker of salt, it looks like the wheel horsepower/tq is better than the stock crank figures, and coming in at lower rpms. Still tuning, no hard runs to redline yet.
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post #34 of 52 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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I'm replacing the Ford Variable Reluctance (VR) crank sensor with a Hall effect sensor from DIYAutotune. With my small timing wheel the VR was very sensitive to the air gap and I have persistent sync loss issues. The new sensor has a smaller tip and is supposedly able to read teeth as small as 2x2mm and puts out a square wave signal that should be easier for the ECU to track.

New sensor is wider and shorter, so a new mount was in order. 34" of snow outside right now so might be awhile before I test the new setup.
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post #35 of 52 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 06:30 PM
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i used the same DIY sensors. I recommend using 12v instead of 5v to get a stronger signal. my crank and cam signal has no loss at 12v @ 7200 rpm
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post #36 of 52 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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Braved the ice, slush and mud to the highway yesterday, and found that the Hall sensor on 12 volts took care of my synch loss issues. I think I would have been fine with the VR sensor on a larger toothed wheel, but my crank wheel almost disappears behind the crank pulley, with tiny, ~1/8" x 1/4" irregular teeth. I made no changes to the Megasquirt, just used the VR input and it read the signal just fine.

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post #37 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-06-2019, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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If it's not one sensor it's another! My air gap on the cam sensor was not wide enough to account for cam end float or mount vibration and the pin hit and shattered the sensor tip magnet. It still was working with the remaining shards of magnet, but would miss at high rpm.

It occurs to me I did not previously show the details of the sensor mod to work in my mount. I chucked a Ford VR sensor in the lathe and cut off the mount I did not need, lengthened the pilot diameter and cut a groove for a little "C" plate to sit in and bolt it in place.
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post #38 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 07:04 PM
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Thanks for explaining the cam sensor mounting. Love this thread, great fabrication skills and knowledge!
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post #39 of 52 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 09:20 AM
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post #40 of 52 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Porn? You flatter me sir

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