ALTERNATOR FAILURE on ESPRIT TURBO - Page 5 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #81 of 95 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 2Many Cars View Post
On the CIS G cars the airbox has to come off to get at most anything on that side of the engine so no pressure there and yes there is a support for the intakes, I presume just like on the carb cars. Most of my weight was on the cam covers (my left elbow has the bruises to prove it) but Mrdangerous I like the idea of boards. I'll need to make some of those.

Atwell - red striped vacuum hose - humm. I'll have to double check that this weekend. Thanks.
I agree with Atwell = vac leak is a primary suspect.
Check all electrical terminals/connectors, specially cold and warm thermal switches. They have shoddy push-on terminals which can come off/get loose or un-solder when wiggled.

It could be stuck fuel by-pass valve or cold start injector does not close or leaks.
Check the Frequency Valve connections and listen w/stethoscope if the part is "buzzing" (= alive). Any failure in the FV circuit will cause WUR mis-behaviour. Sooty plugs may indicate WUR Warm Control Pressure too low = rich mixture.
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post #82 of 95 (permalink) Old 12-06-2018, 04:58 PM
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My observation was that: if the alternator belt is loose, it rubs on the EDGE of the nylon bracket. (The darn thing can be a REAL pain to tension properly)


I've kept the nylon strap and whatever spacer you mention... my bracketry is all OEM.

On the image below, is the spacer you left off the 5.0 mm 'washer' number 16? Hopefully you retained the clamp plate #15, that spreads the load along the nylon strap's length.
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'88 Esprit
Succasunna, NJ USA


"Not all angels have wings." - Turbo R
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post #83 of 95 (permalink) Old 12-07-2018, 10:05 AM
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Yes, it was spacer #016 that I removed. I originally installed it but then when I was reinstalling the belt I could see it was only a couple of MM off the nylon strap. When I removed the spacer (which of course required removing the new alternator so I could get the bolt out far enough to drop the spacer) everything seemed to line up and had much more space between the belt and adjusting strap. You can't see how they align from above, you have to look at it from below to get a good look at the alignment. And yes, I did retain the clamp plate.
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post #84 of 95 (permalink) Old 12-09-2018, 06:32 PM
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I think I may have found my problem - thanks to all for your help and encouragement! I checked all the vacuum lines both visually and with my Mity-vac and all were sound and properly connected. I then started the engine - it started right up but as before wouldn't take any throttle without loading up and wanting to stall. I then begin removing and reattaching all the various electric sensor connections one by one. When I got to the Frequency Valve I noticed removing the connector made no difference - I thought the engine would stall. I then noticed it wasn't buzzing. Oddly when I physically pressed on the valve itself I could feel it start to buzz and hear the engine smooth out a bit so with my other hand I pulled on the throttle cable - and it revved up normally! Clearly I have a bad FV (which was on Mrdangerous's list of possible trouble items) and it's close to the alternator so it was probably already on it's way out and I bumped it a few times and did it in. I've found the exact replacement FV on Ebay but it comes without the hard black plastic injection hose on one end. Can I re-use the old hose? Perhaps heat it up to remove it from the barbed fitting on the FV? Otherwise I may call JAE and see if they have one with the hose and banjo filling already attached. These are under pretty high pressure so I don't want to risk the hose blowing off or leaking. Thanks again everyone for your input! Hopefully this will fix things.
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post #85 of 95 (permalink) Old 12-10-2018, 04:04 AM
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I had the Lucas black goo failure two years ago. I replaced it with the Bosch alternator and have not had an issue since.
It also seems to be more stable in operation with charging and voltage control
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post #86 of 95 (permalink) Old 12-21-2018, 09:38 AM
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Well it worked well for a little while then my troubles returned - starting OK but stumbling to the point of almost stalling on any attempt to accelerate. Although I hated to do it I got professional help from a CIS expert (works mostly on 80's era Porsches) who in less than an hour diagnosed a broken wire to the Frequency Valve. I obviously stressed the wire somehow when putting in the alternator. My advice to those who do that job in the future (on engines with CIS) is to disconnect the plug to the frequency valve when working on the alternator. It doesn't seem like it would get in the way but apparently you can snag it when trying to wrestle the alternator out and/or back in to position, even if you're trying to be careful like I was. Live and learn. The good news it my Esprit is now running better than ever!
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post #87 of 95 (permalink) Old 12-21-2018, 10:01 AM
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Was the wire broken and repaired, or the connectors within the plug out of place?

Atwell Haines
'88 Esprit
Succasunna, NJ USA


"Not all angels have wings." - Turbo R
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post #88 of 95 (permalink) Old 12-21-2018, 11:11 AM
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They told me the wire was "broken" and the connector internal connections somewhat corroded. The wire to the Frequency Valve has a heat resistant sleeve on it so you can't really see the condition of the wire underneath. They replaced the connector as they commented, and we all know, they're a weak link in the wiring.
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post #89 of 95 (permalink) Old 12-21-2018, 08:09 PM
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The good news is the repair didn't require any expensive parts, the bad news is it usually takes a lot of time (read $$$$$) to find and fix. The basis of many problems is the electrical system. Between the wiring (undersized) the connectors (cheap and prone to oxidation), the terminals (backing out of relay and fuseblocks) there are a lot of places things can go wrong. I just finished up an "A" service on my car and this time I went "By the Book" and followed the checklist for EVERY item. Got to the check lights so I checked all the lights. I just assumed they would all work since they all seemed to work. Well, when I got to the high beams the outer 2 went high but the inner 2 would not light up. The inner 2 only come on in high so the only time you would know they aren't working is if you put the high beams on and get in front of the car to actually check them since the outer 2 did go into high beam. First thought was both inner headlights were burnt out so I pulled one and checked the filament for continuity. It was good. So, what next? Knowing how notorious the terminals are in the relay blocks and prone to backing out I pulled the relay and there it was, a terminal had backed out. I clicked it back into place and tried the high beams again and THEY WORKED! 2 morals here. Don't skip checking things and don't trust the terminals in the relay blocks.
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post #90 of 95 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 07:49 PM
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Hello,

I know this is an old post. Any chance you still might have this alternator?

Thanks!

Sam
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post #91 of 95 (permalink) Old 09-15-2019, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EspritX3 View Post
Hello,

I know this is an old post. Any chance you still might have this alternator?

Thanks!

Sam
Are you asking about 2Many Car's original Motorola alternator? Not clear given there are several posts in this context. Note he replaced his with the Bosch ALX49 (and other Esprit owner like myself have done the same.

But my original alternator was a Valeo with the dreaded black goo-covered voltage regulator.

Eddie B
87 Esprit 'SLEEK GT'
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post #92 of 95 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 05:48 AM
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You can still buy factory-rebuilt Bosch alternators from Rock Auto for the 4 cyl cars.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...Q0GiT0ltMbGtNQ

You can also buy complete new alternators from JAE (a lot more $$$ though)
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'88 Esprit
Succasunna, NJ USA


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Last edited by carbuff; 09-16-2019 at 10:56 AM.
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post #93 of 95 (permalink) Old 09-16-2019, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by EspritX3 View Post
Hello,

I know this is an old post. Any chance you still might have this alternator?

Thanks!

Sam
Sam,

Use modern 97-2001 Cadillac Catera alternator instead, 140 Amps.
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post #94 of 95 (permalink) Old 10-09-2019, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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Getting a digital voltage display is the easiest method to monitor your alternator performance while driving. In addition, it will tell if your battery holds the charge.
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post #95 of 95 (permalink) Old 10-10-2019, 06:39 AM
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My radar detector can be switched to monitor voltage on its display.

“But officer, that thing is on my windshield because I’m monitoring my alternator output”

😆 LOL

Atwell Haines
'88 Esprit
Succasunna, NJ USA


"Not all angels have wings." - Turbo R
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