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Esprit turbo 4 pot engine and trans (inboard brakes) $3K
Well, I would certainly show up with a socket and ratchet and see if it will spin at all. Looks awfully corroded. As Dave said either the bottom of a lake or sitting out exposed to the weather for a long time. If it turned I still wouldn't pay 3 grand for it...
Carb'd turbos were sold '83 - '85 model years in the USA.
I see more corrosion than heat bubbling, but those engines were fitted initially with plastic fuel lines tees, which were subject to breakage and, umm, incandescence.
Now that you know it can rotate the next thing to check for is if the input shaft has welded itself to the crank. See if it shifts and goes into neutral. Also pull the dipstick and see what is in there. If you are really ambitious it would be nice to check compression by hooking a battery up to the starter. If it checks out then pull the pan and inspect the bearings. Maybe you don't want to part this one out. It may just look bad on the outside but is still OK inside. Just selling the transaxle and you can get more than you paid for it and if the motor is good you got a good motor for free.
David Teitelbaum
I bought it for the transaxle but then having the motor isn't bad either. I am going to freshen up the trans for the day that I need a clutch or syncros get fuggly. But it might be fun to turbocharge my Jensen Healey. Lots of room under that hood. Now it will go on a stand in the garage at the Pennsy house until needed.
I may end up selling the engine whole or minus hang on parts.
I am picking it up today and will see what I actually have, then decide what to do with it.
The trans is getting built for future use in Penelope if I ever switch out the clutch.
I may end up selling the engine whole or minus hang on parts.
I am picking it up today and will see what I actually have, then decide what to do with it.
The trans is getting built for future use in Penelope if I ever switch out the clutch.
The engine is worth more as a whole rather than selling off a few of it's parts. If you part it out you will be "stuck" with most of it. I would test it's compression, clean it up, and sell it whole. As for a "spare" transaxle, the one in the car may be in better shape. Doing syncros is pretty easy and not that expensive if it is even necessary. If it shifts well all you really need is to just reseal it and change the circlip.
David Teitelbaum
I got the engine and transmission home to my Pennsy house.
It actually looks better then the ad posted picture.
I need to give thought to its future. I am keeping the transmission for certain. I also got a lead on two A35 transmission cores that are post snap ring failures.
If you are going to do a "proper" test I suggest you have it filled with oil and install a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it. Take 2 sets of compression tests. The first one dry and the 2nd one with a squirt of oil in the cylinders. Do it with all of the plugs removed and the throttle blocked wide open. Record the pressures and the oil pressure. Before taking the compression you should crank the motor for a minute or so to circulate the oil inside. Use a fully charged battery so it spins over fast. If you want to get fancy a differential leak-down test is nice too. While you can't offer it as a running motor, doing this will get you the best price possible. Anyone buying the motor should, at the very least, pull the pan and inspect the bottom, replace or rebuild the accessories, adjust valves, and replace seals and belts. Depending on it's condition maybe a "top job".
David Teitelbaum
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