S4s,S4,SE UPDATES & IMPROVEMENTS - Page 7 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #121 of 166 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 07:37 AM
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AWI's would not require a spacer...


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post #122 of 166 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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I'm considering replacing my puny charge cooler coolant pump with the electric CWA50 or CWA100. They are not cheap, but very light and powerful.
For years, German car manufacturers have used these in their cars.
Worth an investigation...
?
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post #123 of 166 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 08:52 AM
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Is this an electric pump?
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post #124 of 166 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 08:54 AM
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Davies-Craig pumps have been popular with Lotus owners for years, especially Turbo Esprit owners. However, Pierburg pumps are new to me. Do you have any more info about the pumps and applications? Is this an old topic and I'm just late to the party?

Regards,
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post #125 of 166 (permalink) Old 09-03-2018, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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It is a new topic, Tim.

For a while, I have been looking into making our c/cooling systems more efficient.
Drop of 1 deg F at the charge cooler exit = 0.5-0.7 HP gain, depending on the volumetric efficiency of the intake/engine.

Not too many people want to spend mega-bucks on the Alunox monster-charge-cooler, so why not find some efficiency improvements somewhere else in the system?

From Fluid Mechanics we know that we should be striving for:
1) less system resistance/back pressure
2) higher volumetric flow and pressure
3) more cooling surface
4) more effective coolant type

examples:
-add pusher fans in front of the c/c' HE matrix
-add water foggers/atomizers in front of HE
-replace front-to-rear piping w/ 1" OD tubes + use larger diameter hoses
-install high volume/pressure pump
-insulate c/cooler and hoses
-fill with 100% water with Water Wetter (and NoRosion protective potion)
-replace charge cooler core with hi-efficiency tube design

In my 88"ET, I have installed a custom c/c of my design, which is 3x larger (surface-wise) than stock, but, unfortunately it weighs 18 lbs!
Instead of using a chinese run-of-the-mill core, I should have purchased a super high efficiency core from A.R.E Cooling, Australia.
However, I was quoted $650 for a 10"x10"x3.5" part.
Ouch!

Last edited by MRDANGERUS; 09-04-2018 at 08:01 PM.
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post #126 of 166 (permalink) Old 09-16-2018, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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How to aim headlights properly

Check your headlights alignment, especially when you change to E2 reflectors

Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

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post #127 of 166 (permalink) Old 09-18-2018, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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OE incandescent (5W!) bulbs are too dim to read anything and generate heat. T10 SMD x8 bulbs provide much desired brightness of your map lights.
Two 44mm 12xSMD Rigid Loop White Festoon Dome Map Bulbs reside in the middle. 15 SMD narrow bulbs = even better. Source: eBay
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post #128 of 166 (permalink) Old 09-22-2018, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
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Fixin' leaky UN1 transmission

Sometimes, we find a drop (or dwo) of oil on the floor and wondering WTH is it coming from.
This transmission has several 8mm bolts around its perimeter, which may seep oil if sealing bead has not been set in place properly.

Easy fix: install DOWTY washers onto the bolts on both sides of the lower flange of the casing. Check all other bolts for tightness.
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post #129 of 166 (permalink) Old 09-23-2018, 04:46 AM
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The only way I know when to add oil to the Tranny , is when it stops dripping on the floor.
Erik L likes this.
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post #130 of 166 (permalink) Old 09-24-2018, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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Just came back from a long "test ride". 1200 miles without any problems. I wish I have had a cruise control and a better wiper blade.

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post #131 of 166 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRDANGERUS View Post
Seizures on earlier cars, and other piston failures, are almost always associated with cylinders 3 & 4 (especially 4).
Apparently, there is a design issue with the cyl head cooling method.

Let's look at the whole system.
Coolant comes in from the pump at the front of the block, and goes out to the thermostat and radiator from the front of the head. Coolant circulation around the back of the engine, cylinders 3 & 4, is minimal.

Heater takeoff comes from the rear of the head, which is the same for all 910 engines. If the heater switch is "ON", there is a coolant flow through the block and rear of the head to the heater matrix, which improves the flow/cooling around cyl 3 & 4.
However, with the heater switch in "OFF", there is no flow trough the matrix and coolant flow is stagnant around the rear of the block/head. Temperatures can rise leading to possible piston/liner seizure.
You are especially at risk if your heater valve is not working properly.
On 1989+ cars equipped with a water cooled turbo, some flow is maintained trough the 1/2" hose, which connects turbo CHRA to the overflow header tank. However, such flow may not be large enough to make a difference.

The obvious solution would be to create flow independently of the heater valve position or condition.
One could fit a 5/8" barbed "tee" at the horizontal spigot below the thermostat (heater matrix return hose) and route an additional 5/8"or 1/2"ID hose to the right, along the rear bulkhead and right eng. compartment partition wall to another 5/8" tee fitted into the hose from rear of the head leading to the heater matrix inlet.
Ideally, it would be more efficient to tap into the large aluminum pipe (the shepherd's hook) going to the radiator.
On my S4s the header tank was cooking up pretty badly. It was so hot that the plastic nipple on the tank cracked and started leaking. It has fallen apart when I removed the turbo hose.
In late Spring, I have added a coolant bypass circuit (as described in my previous posts) and an Aluminum header tank. This Summer, I went for a 1200 miles trip in hot and humid weather (85-90F). I run A/C constantly, so the heater valve was closed all the time. I have had NO problems and my turbo survived Summer heat conditions.
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post #132 of 166 (permalink) Old 10-18-2018, 04:01 AM
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Nice work!

I remind everyone that it is prudent to keep the heater control 'cracked open' at all times. (pointer at the 5 o'clock position) This allows minimal flow through the heater matrix (without heating the cabin) and discourages clogs.


++++++++++

PS: I'm disappointed that you still have the 'dryer hose' turbo intake tube instead of the smooth piping that you installed on your '88. You're slipping! LOL

Atwell Haines
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post #133 of 166 (permalink) Old 10-18-2018, 04:26 AM
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I wonder if it is possible to use an Elise/Exige style 4 port heater valve, which is used precisely for this purpose, it retains coolant flow when the heater is off.
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post #134 of 166 (permalink) Old 10-18-2018, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exigegus View Post
I wonder if it is possible to use an Elise/Exige style 4 port heater valve, which is used precisely for this purpose, it retains coolant flow when the heater is off.
I'd need to look, but I think that the Esprit air-blend door system would produce noticeable heat if the coolant was flowing through the matrix 'full blast'.

I know the system was different on V8s. Perhaps it would work on those?

PS: Do you know where the heater valve is on an Esprit? I'd show you, but I'm out of complimentary visits to my physical therapist.

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post #135 of 166 (permalink) Old 10-18-2018, 09:25 AM
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With a 4 port valve there is zero heat from the heater core, it bypasses.

I should have been more clear, it is the common mod in the Elise/Exige, not the factory part

One could put the valve anywhere and operate it via electric/vacuum etc

I mean, burnt pistons and all.....
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post #136 of 166 (permalink) Old 10-18-2018, 10:08 AM
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The Esprit V8 has a vacuum actuated heater core bypass valve...

I had thought about adding one to my 89SE... after I suffered a head gasket failure at #4, was wondering about the flow out of the back of the head when the heater is turned off.
The 90's GM vehicles had a similar valve, I got one for $16


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post #137 of 166 (permalink) Old 10-18-2018, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exigegus View Post
With a 4 port valve there is zero heat from the heater core, it bypasses.
The goal is NOT to bypass the Esprit's heater core. It is good to keep a little coolant flowing through it at all times. This is not to enhance cooling but to prevent blockages.

Providing flow from the rear of the engine (cylinder 4) is a side benefit.


+++++++++++

Several owners have needed to clean out their clogged heater cores over the years. I personally have had to deal with an S4s with a bad OEM impeller pump that caused the chargecooler system to clog and the aluminum piping to leak, because the coolant wasn't flowing through THAT system.

Keeping the temp control cracked open a little is all you need to do to prevent a heater core blockage. The 'fix' for the chargecooler system is to install an electric pump (a common upgrade).


Atwell Haines
'88 Esprit
Succasunna, NJ USA


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post #138 of 166 (permalink) Old 11-05-2018, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbuff View Post
Nice work!

I remind everyone that it is prudent to keep the heater control 'cracked open' at all times. (pointer at the 5 o'clock position) This allows minimal flow through the heater matrix (without heating the cabin) and discourages clogs.


++++++++++

PS: I'm disappointed that you still have the 'dryer hose' turbo intake tube instead of the smooth piping that you installed on your '88. You're slipping! LOL
Atwell,
Dryer hose will go bye, bye, probably as soon as this winter. Tubes and joiners are waiting patiently on the shelf.
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post #139 of 166 (permalink) Old 11-05-2018, 07:59 PM
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Just to clarify, when you say just crack the heater control to keep flow going thru the heater matrix. The 5 o'clock position on an S4s is wide open heat. So I assume you mean just off the cooling range into heating zone?
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post #140 of 166 (permalink) Old 11-05-2018, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbuff View Post
[snip]
PS: I'm disappointed that you still have the 'dryer hose' turbo intake tube instead of the smooth piping that you installed on your '88. You're slipping! LOL
FYI my 87 had a factory new turbo intake hose tube as part of the box of parts.

The mechanics replaced it and said the old hose was still in great shape - they put it in the old parts box upon repair completion.

The inside of the hose is dual-layered, the inside is substantially smoother than a dryer hose.
I actually have a picture somewhere showing it's not as bad as you would think. And a rubber hose I imagine transmits less heat than an aluminum pipe.

Eddie

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