X180 IMPROVEMENTS - Page 4 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #61 of 493 (permalink) Old 09-25-2014, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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X180 Fuel Tank Strainer

Unlike the 89 + SE Esprits, 1984-1988 cars pick up fuel from the bottom of the sump (bottom of the RH tank). This fuel system is missing a strainer between tank and pumps. Fuel filter is located after the pump(s).
Pump is not protected against ingestion of rust particles and other crud.

When I pull out the RH tank, I will add a Porsche strainer, (have M37x1.5mm bung welded into the bottom of the sump).
Strainer PN#92820108104 from Porsche 911, 924, 944, 944S, 944S2, 944 Turbo
Fuel Pump Suction Strainer - Removing, Cleaning, and Replacing

Old OE feed line (petrified, after 25 yrs of service) has to be replaced by 1/2" ID Viton (FKM) lined hose. EPDM rubber should not be used with gasoline.
http://www.merl-ltd.co.uk/2003_materials/rubber12.shtml

Ethanol-containing fuels pose the challenge of permeation, particularly to nitrile rubbers.
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post #62 of 493 (permalink) Old 10-09-2014, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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post #63 of 493 (permalink) Old 10-09-2014, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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CIS K-Jetro MAFM anti-blow back bar Mod.
Bar has been knife-edged and bosses smoothed out to eliminate air flow disruptions.
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post #64 of 493 (permalink) Old 10-22-2014, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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On Bosch injected cars (only), the left inboard CV joint boot deteriorates due to a heat from (close proximity) the waste-gate bypass pipe. Protective shield is required to save the boot.

Final design will be executed in DGL-150 pattern
http://www.fpmmetals.com/architectural/pattern-gallery/
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post #65 of 493 (permalink) Old 10-30-2014, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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I noticed that plenum "bell mouth" openings were rough and some had a sharp step.
220 flap wheel and mini die grinder are helpful in mitigating this condition.

The transition between the plenum and runner is the most critical aspect of an intake manifold. It needs to be smooth and harmonious. High-quality manifolds go so far as to have air horns incorporated inside the plenum chamber.
The stock "bumps" simulate No. 3 straight stack. Hmmm..., I think I found another project!
I need to find a trumpet which has 45mm small end ID + 62-74m large end OD.
Basing on several dyno tests, Northampton Motorsport UK has confirmed benefits of adding bellmouth velocity stacks to the plenum of the turbocharged engine.


"Snow plow" deflector helps maintaining a better flow to cyl #1 & #4, (easy mod).

1" spacer expands the plenum volume from 140 to 200 cu.in. improving cylinder filling and "stretching" the torque curve peak.
.
Place to get a full "fat lip" velocity stacks of a suitable size is here:
http://stackinjectio...-bellmouth.html
They are: 45mm ID/48mmOD @ rear and 74mm OD @ front (the listing shows 89mm, but it is a typo error).
74mm stacks may package easier in the confines of the plenum cover, providing you add the plenum spacer.
1.5" or 2" thick spacer could be fitted on the SE and later cars, but on pre-SE max= 1" is feasible due to a proximity of the air cleaner box.
.
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post #66 of 493 (permalink) Old 11-03-2014, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Just found some 70mm ram tubes on UK eBay, item No. 380953112746, but they are out of stock.

Instead, I bought 4 stacks from Australia, 74mm OD. http://stackinjection.com.au/

Very good quality and "proper" 270 degree roll back "fat lip".
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post #67 of 493 (permalink) Old 11-05-2014, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Another "Polar Vortex" is coming our way and most of the Lotis took a refuge in warm garages and storage sheds. To avoid problems caused by ethanol, fill her up with ethanol-free petrol or use one ounce/20gal of StarTron Enzyme treatment.
Microbes can flourish in tanks containing gasoline-ethanol blends and cause corrosion of internal tank surfaces. Microbial induced corrosion (MIC) can occur under aerobic and anaerobic conditions. Micro-organisms survive by feeding on the hydrocarbons at the interface between the water layer and the gasoline layer. Wastes and fermentation products secreted by the microbes produce water, sludge and acidic byproducts that can cause material degradation. The acidic residues of sulfate reducing bacteria can cause metal corrosion and may, if left unmanaged, cause a tank failure. There is also recent evidence of MIC in un-phase separated product. The primary cause of microbial growth is the presence of water. Minimizing and managing water intrusion into the tank system from all sources are effective measures to discourage the growth of microbial colonies. Adding StarTron enzymatic fuel treatment (by Star Brite) eliminates this problem. For more info see: http://www.huntingpa.com/forums/ubbt...2755625&page=3

When storing your car, boat, lawn mowers, etc., always fill the tank with ethanol free petrol. I do know that all local marinas sell ethanol free petrol, mainly for corrosion reasons. It is hard to keep water out of tanks, because it comes in with fuel and air. During seasonal storage, keeping tank full may be all we can do along with filling with ethanol free gas, if you can find it in your area. Check your area for ethanol-free gas Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada

For more info see www.startron.com

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post #68 of 493 (permalink) Old 11-08-2014, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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I have removed the aluminum spacer ring from the waste-gate stack-up to restore OE advertised 9.5 psi boost. With the ring, only 7-7.5 psi is achievable.
If you do that, change M6 bolts, too. Use shorter (25mm) fully threaded fasteners. OE bolts have a long shoulder preventing w/gate cover from being fully seated.

NOTE:
Majority of 86-88 Turbos had boost restricted to 7.5psig by fitting an aluminum spacer ring between two halves of the wastegate.
There was an issue in the early turbo cars, which had to do with (early, cast) pistons crowning and causing excessive clearances causing hot blow-by, which caused the ring land failure resulting in broken rings and/or pistons. HCI and later Mahle pistons solved the problem.

The correct way to test the waste-gate is with a leak-down tester.
This pressurizes the diaphragm in the top chamber and will also allow you to check for valve stem to guide wear (excessive wear will allow air to escape between the valve stem and guide).
Pressurizing the diaphragm from the top input port allows a pointer to be introduced through the lower threaded vent hole.
The pointer can then be used to determine at what pressure the diaphragm and valve assembly starts to move - this is important.

P.S. When the two halfs are apart, you should fit a graphite flexible foil Graphoil gasket 0.030" thick between upper body and the diaphragm for thermal insulation (OE gasket was... paper, which is long gone!)
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post #69 of 493 (permalink) Old 11-16-2014, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
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"Food grade" PVC tank vent hoses = fire hazard.

After 20+ years they got hard, brittle and let out the gasoline smell.
Similar OD fuel line serves the same purpose, but much better.
eBay item 361062470585
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post #70 of 493 (permalink) Old 11-21-2014, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Old Fuel Hoses; fire hazard and cause for concern.

20 something old lines should be replaced with modern ethanol resistant rubber hoses.
They were installed many years ago when ethanol was used only for racing. Replace all hoses in the engine compartment and connections to and around charcoal canister.

Obviously, anything carrying an acidic explosive material has to be strong and durable. Three types of hose are normally found on marine engines: flexible hose (A1, A2, B1, and B2), steel lines (on the engine), and copper tubing. What concerns us is the flexible tubing, since this is the part of the system most likely to fail. The metal hoses can be checked when servicing your engine, but the flexible hoses need constant monitoring. Due to vibration, it is a legal requirement that metal fuel lines be connected to the engine with flexible hose. You should check all joints for leaks at least twice a season. Use your fingers, and look out for stains on or around the fitting. For hoses without permanent end fittings, use stainless steel clamps.

Wipe your hoses with a dry rag and see if you smell gasoline. This is a sign that your hose has disintegrated and needs replacement. Hoses deteriorate more quickly if your engine uses gasoline blended with alcohol. Fuel blended with methanol makes fuel lines brittle, while an ethanol mixture makes them soft. This means that the best way to avoid alcohol damage is to use alcohol-free fuel.

All flexible fuel lines must be USCG approved SAEJ1527 hose, which is resistant to alcohol.

So, which hose should you go for? Well, fuel lines use a standardized lettering system. Of the two types available, A and B, A is more fire resistant, and has to be used at the fuel pump and carburetor where more than five ounces of fuel could spill if the hose is cut. Type 1 has less permeation loss than Type 2. This makes Type 1 the better hose for all applications. Therefore a hose marked A1 is a stronger, more leak-proof, fire-resistant line.

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post #71 of 493 (permalink) Old 11-22-2014, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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X180 Intake air flow enhancements.

Food for Thought:

Knife edge & blend:
1) turbo pipe inlet
2) compressor inlet and add the cone
3) open up the diffuser "mail slot" and smooth out the walls.

This flow improvement is worth 11+ CFM.

Improved air flow = volumetric efficiency increase

Engine Efficiency consists of: Volumetric Efficiency, Combustion Efficiency, Thermal Efficiency
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post #72 of 493 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 08:18 AM Thread Starter
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Door swing open improvement.

For those with long legs, to facilitate ingress/egress, this modification allows doors to open ~1 ft wider.
Pull out the "check straps" and extend the very end of the part. In addition, I chamfered
the pivot hole reinforcement plate "step" and added a grommet to reduce the wind noise.
Titanium bolt is used as a pivot. Steel bolts snap too easily/often.
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post #73 of 493 (permalink) Old 11-26-2014, 10:59 AM
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Hi John, did you buy a Comp turbo, or is that a pic of mine? Keep up the good work.
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post #74 of 493 (permalink) Old 11-27-2014, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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It is a CT3-5356, which cross-reff to Garrett GT3071R.
I'm still debating w/myself which one to use. I'm leaning toward my hybrid Skyline unit (primarily due to cost).
I have modified the adapter inlet to accept either one.
Decisions, decisions, decisions... What a stressful hobby!

What's yours?
For more info see:
Comp Turbo - Cross Reference
>
When ordering a new turbo from CT, go straight to the parent company, (not any “performance shop”, which will screw up your order/specs and charge you double $$$).
Best, is to send them your old turbo and ask CT to build you a bespoke one matching your flange/fastener/ports configuration

Talk to this guy, first:

Justin Ekholm
[email protected]
Comp Turbo Technology Inc.
Director of sales
253 W Allen Ave
San Dimas, Ca, 91773
P 909 599 5757
F 909 599 5454

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post #75 of 493 (permalink) Old 11-27-2014, 10:08 AM
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It's a CT3 5756. Just wondered if you got yours yet.
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post #76 of 493 (permalink) Old 12-01-2014, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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When you take off your binnacle next time, you may implement this simple mod.
Add 3-way switch and two additional temperature senders, one to monitor the engine oil temperature and the other for the transmission oil.
They are hooked up to the existing gauge, which still functions as a coolant temperature indicator.
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post #77 of 493 (permalink) Old 12-09-2014, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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PolyQuad head design = how to squeeze out extra 100HP

Four-valve heads are certainly "cool", but comparing to modified 2-valve config, they exhibit a certain flaw - low speed torque is never impressive.

The key to making low speed torque is two-fold:
a) how much charge is trapped at valve closure and
b) how effectively the charge is burned."
Replacing 4V head charge "tumble" with the "swirl" motion presents itself as a key element of the successful (re)design.

To get details of this revolutionary PolyQuad head design, read this article:
Polyquad Article - MotorTech Magazine

If anyone wants a PQ head modified (be it for any multi-valve head), then Ultra Pro Machining in the USA http://www.ultrapromachining.net/About.html (704-392-9955), who does so many cup car heads, or Austec Racing in the UK http://www.austec.co.uk/Cylinder-head-Modifications.asp (01293 531080), are up to speed on this. DD required, DIY always encouraged, LOL.

***********************
WIPO Patent Application WO/2001/016469

The present invention seeks to provide, inter alia, further methods to generate swirl and reduce cross flow in spark ignition internal combustion engines having two inlet and two exhaust valves per cylinder head, without the use of additional moving parts. According to one aspect of the present invention there is provided an internal combustion engine comprising a cylinder head having formed therein first and second intake valves and one or more exhaust valves, the intake valves being disposed on one side of the cylinder head and the exhaust valve or valves being disposed on an opposite side of the cylinder head, characterized in that the engine is adapted so as to admit a greater flow of combustion charge through the first intake valve as compared to the second intake valve, the differential flow between the two intake valves imparting a swirl to the combustion charge as it enters the combustion chamber, the swirl direction generally corresponding to circumferential charge flow in the combustion chamber from the first intake valve, past the exhaust valve or valves and thence to the second intake valve.

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post #78 of 493 (permalink) Old 12-09-2014, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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At the first glance, PolyQuad-ing Lotus head looks feasible due to availability of several different valve sizes.

Food for thought:
Starting with 87/88 stock head (35.5 mm intake and 30.8 mm exhaust), one can select from two larger intake valve sizes. The first is 36.8mm, which is the largest valve that fits on the standard valve seat insert. Alternatively, it is possible to have 38.5 mm valve, which is used in the ultra big valve heads of the "works" Lotus Sunbeams. However, the 38.5 mm valve requires the cylinder head to be fitted with oversize seat inserts; it offers the ultimate in airflow. Some valves feature an undercut stem (“waisted” stem) in the area that protrudes into the port, which enhances air flow at low lift and lightens the valve.
Lotus used a 36.8mm valve in the S300 and S4s engines; these valves are a fraction larger than the S300 valves and the valve head shape flows better too.
There are two oversize exhaust valve sizes. The first is 32mm dia. Alternatively, it is possible to have 34.25mm valves, which is the size used in the big valve heads of the "works" Lotus Sunbeams.

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post #79 of 493 (permalink) Old 12-10-2014, 07:15 AM
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Not to nit pick, but I seem to remember seeing oversized valves with large stems as well.
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post #80 of 493 (permalink) Old 12-10-2014, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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