X180 IMPROVEMENTS - Page 6 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #101 of 495 (permalink) Old 01-18-2015, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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I found this product very effective in keeping all electrical contacts free of corrosion. It even restores connectivity in some old crimped terminals.
Simple fix, effective and cheap. $4.24 @ Amazon.
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post #102 of 495 (permalink) Old 01-21-2015, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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Radius (trailing) arm to chassis poly bushings

After 25 years of service, OE rubber bushes become spongy affecting rr suspension geometry and handling.
High quality Poly bushes PN# LOTAC05457 from https://www.thelotusforums.com/shop/...ery=lotac05457
at a quite attractive price (comparing to PUK), may be a very good idea.

Replacement is not difficult:

1. lift the rr of the car and support it SECURELY! Place 2 wedge stops per wheel (front and rear of the tyre) at the front wheels+ support @ rr jacking points + bottom of
the rr chassis hoop @ rr center.
I'm a bit paranoid about this since 73 Charger came off the supports (long time ago) and tried to make a thin burger patty of me.

2. disconnect lateral arms 50 by removing bolts 52 and nuts 53, and rest the ends on the ground (need 19mm hex spanners)

3. Remove nut 38 (17mm hex) whilst holding the head of the bolt 35 w/ 5/8" ring spanner and withdraw the arm 17 off the bolt.
Note: DO NOT use socket/ratchet handle on the nut 38! If you "slip" the hex - you're in deep ... du-du. Use high quality ring spanner w/ cheater pipe and soak the joint with CRC #401724 , K&W Technician Grade Knock'er Loose Lubricant/Penetrant (it beats the Blaster hands down!).
On the left side you have to remove heat shields to gain access to the bolt 35 head.

4. drop the pivot end of the arm 17 as far as you can to gain access to the bearing. Note: the upper link 40 will fight you if not slackened or disengaged. Catch all the
toe-in adjust washers 37 and don't forget to re-install them later.

5. remove bolts 28 (13mm hex) and washers 28 and withdraw the bushing, plate and snubber washers.
Replace washers 29 with thick washers of a larger OD upon re-assembly. Straighten the plate 26, if bent.

6. Reassembly - in the reverse order. Apply Super Lube #41150 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2) to all moving parts.
Re-tighten 52&53 at the nominal car ride height.
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post #103 of 495 (permalink) Old 01-21-2015, 09:18 AM
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with the poly bushings, notice much increase in ride roughness?

Why not replace the bushings in both ends of 40 and 50 as well?

Kenny; Dallas Tx
==============================
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1990 Nissan 300ZX - SOLD
1990 Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo - SOLD
1996 Porsche 911 Cab - SOLD
1989 Porsche 928 S4 - SOLD
1994 Lotus Esprit S4
Test pipe, Ramspott & Brandt center exit exhaust, 2002 center exhaust valance, Alunox performance exhaust manifold, Spax coilovers with Eibach front springs, Elise steering wheel
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post #104 of 495 (permalink) Old 01-21-2015, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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No, too much snow on the ground to drive.

Excellent idea!
#40 and #50 link bushes should be renewed with OE type (rubber) parts at the same time.

Hyper-Flex bushings developed by Lotus could work in this application, but hard Poly parts would not last for too long. There is a binding present due to a precarious geometry on pre-89 cars. With a single degree of freedom at the inner mounting points, twisting motion about the axis of the links requires compliant bushings. Spherical ends are the best for this application.
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post #105 of 495 (permalink) Old 01-27-2015, 06:51 AM Thread Starter
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Mufflers and CATS

Never buy a muffler or CAT on the basis of looks or how do they "sound", but always by their cfm flow.

In order not to create any significant pressure losses (=HP loss), your muffler has to flow at least as much as your down pipe.
An open pipe flows 115 cfm/in^2 @ 1.5" Hg.
Empirical data shows that the muffler should flow not less than 2.2 cfm/HP.

For 910 engine, ~ 220HP x 2.2= 485cfm is a minimum flow required. Once the available flow exceeds 2.2cfm/HP, any increase of the muffler capacity diminishes further gains to less than 1% delta.

Adding a straight through glass-pack muffler to a length-tuned system disrupts the optimized length. Therefore, power will be reduced.
Conversely, the open internal design of a Flowmaster-style muffler acts as a pressure wave termination box and allows the effect of the tuned-length exhaust to remain unchanged.
Installing a Flowmaster muffler with in/out (Din/Dout) ends larger than down-pipe (d) may be beneficial, if done right. Inserting the down-pipe ~2" into the muffler body creates an anti reversion feature (where d<<Din; outlet Dout can be =d or larger). Dout should never be smaller than d.

If you have a 25 yrs old CAT- consider replacing it with modern low restriction CAT, like these SLP 3"in/3"out units http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...ic-Converters/

Faulty CAT symptoms are: poor performance, poor mileage, runs rich, irregular idle (shakes), engine cuts off at higher rpm, idles fine but dies at attempt to drive, foul smell
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post #106 of 495 (permalink) Old 02-05-2015, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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When servicing HCI and X180 CV joints, consider swapping shafts around on re-assembly, (the outboard CV joint goes inboard, HR shaft goes on the drives side and vice-verso).
Usually, the outboard CV joint wears out faster because the up-down wheel oscillations add to the joint angular displacement. I some areas where roads are bad, the right outboard joint gets pounded constantly and wears out more than left outboard joint.

Porsche 934s and 935s used these same CV joints and diameter shafts putting 600 to 700 hp through them. I'm sure they wore out CV joints more quickly but I don't recall hearing about catastrophic failures.
For stock or near stock car, the joints should last 100k miles or more. I've never heard of a half shaft failure. For this size shaft, 400 ft-lbs of torque is conservative with 40% safety margin. If running an off road V8 buggy or sand car, breaking half shafts may be an issue as it could be on a drag racer running big slicks.

But neither of those conditions is relevant to my application.
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post #107 of 495 (permalink) Old 02-05-2015, 06:10 PM
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Great thread!

2012 Lotus Evora S GP Edition #14/14
1995 Lotus Esprit S4
1991 Toyota MR2
1987 Renault GTA

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post #108 of 495 (permalink) Old 02-05-2015, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91MR2 View Post
Great thread!
Definitely - amazing what details (e.g. wiring diagram scrutiny) will come out.

Eddie B
87 Esprit 'SLEEK GT'
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post #109 of 495 (permalink) Old 02-06-2015, 07:07 AM
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MRDANGERUS -> Pardon me if I overlooked it. I noticed many of your posts didn't include part numbers/sources. Are you keeping a parts list rundown and, if so, might you please share that information?

1993.5 Turbo
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post #110 of 495 (permalink) Old 02-06-2015, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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post #111 of 495 (permalink) Old 02-09-2015, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loadedmind View Post
MRDANGERUS -> Pardon me if I overlooked it. I noticed many of your posts didn't include part numbers/sources. Are you keeping a parts list rundown and, if so, might you please share that information?
What's on your mind?
Please let me know what specific PN# you are looking for, I'm sure I can help with any information I may have.
Many of my posts describe past projects. Some of them involve fabrication and whilst the initial donor PN may be available, the final part has none. My most frequent sources are eBay, Amazon and JAE (805-967 5767).

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post #112 of 495 (permalink) Old 02-10-2015, 01:04 PM
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Ok, thanks. I know for folks that come back to this thread fairly regularly (or at least I do), it'd be nice to be able to reference the part number instead of comparing pictures.

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post #113 of 495 (permalink) Old 02-10-2015, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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post #114 of 495 (permalink) Old 02-11-2015, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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WINDOW LIFT MOTORS - REBUILD GUIDE

Lotus window motors are pretty unique. They were manufactured by Delco in UK. They have 10 teeth and 18 mm diameter gear wheel, which is much smaller than any Jaguar, (22 mm) gear wheel. The gear wheel diameter is always small, 18mm, (or 23/32"). It is extremely difficult to adapt any Jag motors, because gear wheel/ratio mismatch, so it is more practical to rebuild your old motors.

Typical Motor Failure Mode:
In most cases, the armature does not burn out. Something else fails: brushes, magnets, circuit breaker, contacts, etc.

1. Usually, the glue holding permanent magnets to the housing fails. High humidity and high temperatures cause parts separation. Loose magnets grab the armature slowing down or immobilizing the motor. Current overload trips the safety breaker inside the motor every time the window switch is activated. Flexible contact inside the breaker capsule cycles excessively, overheats and bends out of the factory preset position. Motor "acts" dead, but it may just need a simple repair or adjustment.

To disassemble the motor, unscrew two torx head screws and gently separate can from the gear box. Do not force the parts. Pull the armature and check windings for continuity using a good eye and moving coil ohm-meter (non-digital), or simply a test light. If any one winding is burned out, buy used Delco motor and swap the armature. Hang-on to the original gear box, since it has a pretty unique bolt pattern, back spacing and gear wheel.
Clean the can inside with (good chlorinated, flammable) Brake or Carburetor Cleaner fluid. Mark the desired magnet position (depth, distance from the flange, etc.), with a marker. Use plenty of "miracle" Gorilla Glue (thick Cyanoacrylate), to re-attach magnets, one at the time. This glue cures very fast and there is no time for magnet re-positioning, so a steady hand is a must. Let it cure for a couple of hours, preferably - overnight.
Before you proceed to the next step, get yourself some good magnifying goggles.

2. If motor stops working after one second or half way trough the lift cycle (you can hear "cycling" clicks), you'll need to rebuild/recalibrate the overload capsule (internal circuit breaker). The most tedious part of the job is opening the bi-metallic breaker capsule. It looks like a 3/8" x ¾" copper box located at the side of the brush holder. It has two crimped edges with a double sided sticky foam tape between the flanges, which acts as an isolator. You should hold the capsule with the pliers and use a thin stubby knife or jeweler’s screwdriver to pry the crimped edges half- way open. Take your time. Using flat nose mini pliers, bend one of the flanges bit further, almost to 90 deg position. I had to grind one side of the pliers jaw to thin out its profile. Be gentle, do not shred the adhesive tape, (it acts as an isolator between two halves of the capsule).
Next, insert a very thin pin or blade (Exacto knife w/ sharp point) between capsule lower half and the tape, gently pry it open and separate the upper shell from the base. Be careful not to hurt the tape! Capsule will open like an oyster shell.
Once you get it open, clean the contacts and bend upward the bi-metallic strip of metal with the contact button attached. Use the jeweler's thin blade screwdriver to do that. You have to use your "best judgment" how much to bend it. Do not mess with the silver-ish strip since that is a bi-metallic element. Close the capsule. You don't have to bend capsule flanges back. The tape will hold it together. Also, it will be easier to work with the capsule in the future, should you need further adjustments.

(*) Now, you can insert the armature. First, using a thin pin or dental pick, pull both arms of the brush springs away from the axis of the commutator and rest them on the edge of the plastic housing, just above the slot. Next, push brushes outboard into the housing to clear the commutator. Apply hi-temp, hi-Molybdenum or graphite grease over the rear end & the worm gear, and insert the armature by screwing it into the gear box until it bottoms out. Push the brush spring ends down until they snap into the slots pushing brushes toward the stator. Rotate the armature clockwise by hand to verify that brush blocks contact the stator. Next, holding the gear tight, slide the motor can w/ magnets over the armature. If you don’t hold on to the gear tightly, magnets will pull the armature out of the gear box and beyond the brush blocks. Ooops, and you will have to start all over again, (go back to *).
Additionally, I have replaced the regular (burn-out) window fuses at the fuse perch (fuse # 30 & #34 ), with automatic 20A contact breakers (cost $5 in NAPA store). This gives you an additional protection in case you have over-bent the strip inside of the motor capsule/breaker.
When done with this repair, before you install the door moisture barrier, it is a good practice to install an additional plastic "bib" or apron over the top of the gear case and the motor to deflect any water entering door cavity.
Addition of a relay circuit modification and extra grounding wires from the motor mounting screw to the beam will increase longevity of your switches.
>>> Warning: do not keep the ignition in "ON" position for any prolonged period of time!!! Your ignition coil will burn out in 3-5 minutes

P.S. To remove the motor/actuator arm assembly, there is a need to drill an access hole in the door inner shell, see picture in post #129 . You'll need it for inserting a socket+extension to remove the motor lower mounting bolt.
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post #115 of 495 (permalink) Old 02-11-2015, 10:04 PM
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I followed MRDANGERUS' earlier article on the window motors.

My passenger side was not working. I opened it, cleaned it out with WD40 (the armature refused to come out) and it worked for about 1 month and 'died'.

I left it untouched (usually drive solo, so a non-working window was not urgent - yeah, I know...).

About 1 year later, a coworker rode with me and he pushed the switch. Lo and behold, it's been working just fine every since (about 6 months now).

Have no idea why it started to work again.

FYI here's the comparison to the Jaguar motors. Note that my OEM 88 Esprit window motors have 10 teeth (picture has erroneous 8 teeth at bottom of picture - picture clearly shows 10 teeth).



Eddie B
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post #116 of 495 (permalink) Old 02-11-2015, 10:16 PM
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It's also a good thing to do the relay mod. Speeds those slow windows up.
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post #117 of 495 (permalink) Old 02-12-2015, 03:58 AM
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It's also a good thing to do the relay mod. Speeds those slow windows up.


Tell us more on this.. applicable to 1994?

Kenny; Dallas Tx
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1995 Lexus SC300 - SOLD
1990 Nissan 300ZX - SOLD
1990 Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo - SOLD
1996 Porsche 911 Cab - SOLD
1989 Porsche 928 S4 - SOLD
1994 Lotus Esprit S4
Test pipe, Ramspott & Brandt center exit exhaust, 2002 center exhaust valance, Alunox performance exhaust manifold, Spax coilovers with Eibach front springs, Elise steering wheel
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post #118 of 495 (permalink) Old 02-12-2015, 05:16 AM
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It's also a good thing to do the relay mod. Speeds those slow windows up.
Forgot to mention I did the relay mod at the same time. I believe the later cars had the mod from factory but not sure which year it started. The relay mod removes the switch from switching the motor current and uses two relays to carry the load. One relay for up and another for down.

Eddie B
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post #119 of 495 (permalink) Old 02-12-2015, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
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post #120 of 495 (permalink) Old 02-12-2015, 07:47 AM
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Made a world of difference on mine. Now they work like a modern car's should. They used to be intermittent or very S L O W!!
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