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Car Lift Recommendation?

14K views 71 replies 27 participants last post by  Champale 
#1 ·
Atlas seems to be the best lift for the money with many height and width options.

Is anyone using one for the evora? Any concerns with bottoming out, especially the middle of the car, when driving onto the platform?
 
#4 ·
I recently bought a Challenger 4-post 9,000 lb. CL4P9S, and I love it. US-assembled, Korean steel (over Chinese, FWIW). Works great, decent price. My Evora doesn't bottom out on the standard ramps, but they had longer ones available if necessary.
I second the Challenger. That's what I got last year for my Evora and it works great. If you get 2 rolling jacks you can do 4-wheel rotations very easily (obviously not on the Evora). I opted for a single rolling jack and a jack platform for the few times I need both ends of a vehicle off the runways. Unless your Evora is lowered, there shouldn't be a problem getting onto the runways with the standard aluminum ramps it comes with. I even leave hockey pucks on my rolling jack and it clears them just fine.
 
#5 ·
I got the one rolling jack and the jack tray for the back, which hopefully I can put a scissor jack on, though I haven't used it yet.

The rolling jack is great but when the car is fully lowered the jack handle hits the undertray at the very limit of its pumping action, so you have to pump it about 50 times to move the first inch. After that the car is high enough to let you move the handle normally. Not sure what can be done about that, but I found it a bit inconvenient.
 
#8 ·
I’m looking for a 4 post lift as well and those short extensions on the rolling jack is a deal breaker for me. I do plan on using rolling jacks so do you guys know which company makes rolling jacks with long enough arms to reach the jacking points on our cars?
 
#11 ·
I have an Advantage SS 9000 lb XLT Lift (extra length and height). I picked it up at one of their eastern warehouses and my brother and I assembled it in 5 hours.

I bought their rolling jack, as well as their rolling jack tray (for depending on what car I am lifting). I was concerned about the approach ramp clearance when driving the Evora on, so I use my longer Race Ramp trailer ramps instead. Although, they do sell longer 48" aluminum approach ramps (comes with 36" ramps as standard).

On my 2011, the rolling jack arms reach the front jack points and like agentdr8, I also use hockey pucks on them. I can lift it at all four corners by using short bottle jacks in the rear platform (in line with rear lifting points) and then placing blocks under the rotors (with slight clearance) as a safety measure. They also have air bag jacks that may work for the rear but I haven't tried them.


https://www.advantagelifts.com/products/advantage-ss-9000xlt
 

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#23 ·
The Advantage Specs are great for my fit... can one of you please measure the platform height off the ground when lowered? My AMG has a 4 inch clearance compared to the 6 inch of the Evora... glad I measured... didn’t expect that.
Track thickness is shown as 4.5" (SS-9000-XLT) on their website. However, it does sit up slightly when in the lowest (floor) position.

I would be more than happy to get a precise measurement, but I am currently 350 miles away. So, it would have to wait several days...
 
#16 ·
Thanks Agent... 5” may still be tight for the AMG but that is my daily and will be under the lift mostly. now to find an installer... the Atlas is a little less $ but both come with all many extras (drip trays, jack tray, casters, etc). which is great.
 
#18 ·
One way to know for sure is to compare slope percentages. If the vehicle's is greater than the ramps', you should be fine.

Based on the measurements I have, the stock 36" ramps (31.5" from tip to top angle before the flat) at a height of 5" is roughly a 15.87% slope ((h/d) x 100). My Evora is ~36" from tire contact to leading edge of car, at a height of about 6", which is a 16.67% slope.
 
#19 ·
I’m ok on the front... it’s the middle I was worried about.
Here’s my math... the AMG wheelbase is 109 inches... when the back wheels hit a 36” ramp. 36/109=33% Only 33% of the 5 inch platform will be lifting the back third of the bottom as it approaches the ramp. So 1.65 inches plus my 4 inch clearance (no driver weight) means that section of the car will be 5.65 inches above the ground when the back wheels strike the ramp.
With a 48 inch ramp, 48/109=44% so 2.2 inches on the 4 inch normal clearance provides 6.2 inches from Floor height to bottom of car. Unfortunately my driveway sits 1-2” below my garage floor and the ramps will extend out there. Looks like I should relayer the driveway now.

For entertainment value, “let’s get a lift” morphed into; let’s replace the three garage doors too, might as well get all three high lift with new side mount openers, might as well get an epoxy floor before the lift goes in, now let’s replace the driveway too... ?‍♂
 
#20 ·
For entertainment value, “let’s get a lift” morphed into; let’s replace the three garage doors too, might as well get all three high lift with new side mount openers, might as well get an epoxy floor before the lift goes in, now let’s replace the driveway too...
Lol I hear you. Had to add the door high lift and a jackshaft opener too in order to fully utilize the lift. But had epoxied the floor before move-in, so at least I was slightly ahead of the game there ;)

Be mindful of your garage door opening height too; most of the posts on these lifts will barely squeak by on a 7' opening. Not a big deal if you plan on having someone build it in situ, but more of a roadblock when it comes time to disassemble and move it elsewhere.
 
#22 ·
I have the challenger 4 post lift. The company is located near to me in Louisville KY. I've been very pleased with the reliability and quality. I've had it for more than 4 years.

I do not have the rolling jack. But a bonus is that when the car is on the lift and the lift is on the ground then my low profile jack and cross beam fit underneath it and I can get the cross beam pads on the front jacking points and lift the front of the car up.

As others have noted a high lift garage door conversion is needed.
 
#25 ·
#28 ·
I owned an off brand Chinese two poster many years ago, seemed great at first but parts were clearly a challenge. I went on to Bendpak and was happy with them, prompt email/phone support in the US. My HD9ST four poster wasn't much more than the generic brands, I added their pneumatic trolley jack (RJ45?) and it was awesome, worked great with my Elise. I've since moved to a smaller garage and an Evora, and have their 4' mid rise lift (MD6XP), a far cry from a four poster but way better than jack stands and lying on the floor. Pros are 120v, easy setup, "portable" and I park over it everyday with a set of low raceramps.

tl,dr: a lift is a looong term purchase, buy from a company you expect to be there in 10+ years.
 
#29 ·
I'm considering one of the mid rise lifts for the Evora, but what is preventing me from pulling the trigger is do the lift pads reach the lift points? It seems that it would either be too, wide, narrow, long or short, since the font lift points are in a different orientation than the rears.
 
#30 ·
I have a no name Complete Hydraulics lift that I've had for 12 years. It's a SL 10,000 OH asymmetrical lift and I've had a ton of various cars and truck on it, including the Evora. I haven't had any problems with it (knock on wood) except I had to replace the key switch with a toggle (someone took the key out and it was lost) and it's served me well. I had a Jeep Wagoneer project that sat on it for 9 months with no problems. I also had a diesel Dodge truck, no issues with lifting it either.
I also owned a 4 post lift with 2 air bridge jacks. I thought it would be great for general maintenance and parking. I was wrong. It was more of a pain to use than the 2 post so I sold it. It might have been that I had the 4 post next to the 2 post, but the 2 post, in my opinion, is just easier to work around. To me, it depends on what you want to use the lift for. If you think majority parking and very occasional work, 4 post. Actual work, 2 post. FYI, a couple of friends of mine and I installed mine in a day.
 
#32 ·
After a ton of research last year, I purchased a Titan SPDL-8000 4 post lift and actually installed it by myself (not recommended) My garage only has an 8'9" ceiling so its only good for cars 45-51" tall. I think we ended up paying around $2400 for it, It came with the Jacking tray (tool tray is what I use it for)and wheels to get it in place. I've been pleased with it:smile2:

As a side note, if you get a four post lift, install LED ribbon light under the runways. I installed two 16' rolls of 5000K LED Lights and a cheap remote switch that's attached to one of the posts. I've got the wiring attached so that the lift can be operated without affecting the lighting

The pic of the Lotus is with all the garage lights off and just the LED's on, it's looks great!

https://titanlifts.com/4-post/titan-sdpl-8000-4-post-lift
 

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#33 ·
As a side note, if you get a four post lift, install LED ribbon light under the runways. I installed two 16' rolls of 5000K LED Lights and a cheap remote switch that's attached to one of the posts. I've got the wiring attached so that the lift can be operated without affecting the lighting
Yep! I thought I was being original putting LED strips under my runways, but I guess not. Went with motion activated ones that also have a light sensor, so they only come on at night.
 
#34 ·
With 2 pages on this thread already and I’m surprised no one has mentioned anything about Rotary lifts. Also what about Bendpak? Is it because Rotary is too expensive? So far I’ve narrowed down to three brands that I’m interested in: Rotary, BendPak, and Atlas. Does anyone else have experience with these lifts?
 
#35 ·
Rotary, Mohawk, and Dannmar was too much $$$ for me when I was shopping. I also considered Bendpak, since they're somewhat local (in the same state) and affordable but didn't want a lift with pneumatic locks or accessories.

Atlas was on the short list too, but ultimately the Challenger won out over price, included accessories, shipping times, ALI certification, etc. I think a lot of the 4-posts in this general price range are all more or less the same. Some use Chinese steel, some use Korean steel, some have ALI certs, some don't, some are assembled elsewhere, some are assembled in the US. Warranties vary per mfg, and some depend on maintenance being performed only by a certified tech, etc.

All I know is having a lift has made wrenching at home more enjoyable and accessible, so you probably can't go wrong with any of the options, as long as it's well-built and from a reputable company.
 
#36 ·
I have a 2 post and a 4 post lift. The 2 post is a Direct Lift that I have had for over 10 years. I have picked up a 1/2 crew cab truck with no problems. The only problem I have had with the DirectLift is the motor failed and in order to replace it, I had to replace the complete hydraulic unit. The 4 post is Bendpak. I purchased it because it is extra tall and extra wide but is standard length. At the time, Bendpak was the only company that made one with these dimensions. I needed it extra wide for the race car, not the one on the lift now.

I have to agree with one of the previous posters, if you plan to use the lift for any extensive work on the car, get a 2 post.

Later,
Eldon
 

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#48 ·
I have a Bendpak HD-7W, I store the Lotus on it or below, depending on what I'm doing. The hydraulic locks are a bit annoying but not terrible, I just run my hose over and connect it when needed and that's it. I also have the bottle jack on it so a compressor isn't needed, you just lift the car up a bit and the bottle fills, then it has enough pressure to release the locks.

I have the regular ramps and the car has no trouble getting up it. I don't know if the Evora 400 is lower, but I typically back the car onto the lift.
 
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