Clutch Master - Wilwood or Tilton? - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 07:32 AM Thread Starter
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Clutch Master - Wilwood or Tilton?

Hey guys - my clutch pedal sits on the floor at start up most mornings and takes a few pumps to get firmness back. Once warm, its totally fine. I'm planning on bleeding the system (with the Motiv system) but figured if I was going to do all that work (seems like a pain from the other threads I've read), I might as well swap out the master cylinder also so that I won't just be doing it again in a month.

I have a 2014 Evora NA, which should be the plastic unit from Lotus.

I couldn't find any reason to choose the GRP Wilwood or the BOE Tilton. In some of the older threads I noticed some issues with adapter plates, which I assume are all corrected at this point.

Is one better than the other?

Jon

2014 Ardent Red Evora
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 07:56 AM
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Hey guys - my clutch pedal sits on the floor at start up most mornings and takes a few pumps to get firmness back. Once warm, its totally fine. I'm planning on bleeding the system (with the Motiv system) but figured if I was going to do all that work (seems like a pain from the other threads I've read), I might as well swap out the master cylinder also so that I won't just be doing it again in a month.

I have a 2014 Evora NA, which should be the plastic unit from Lotus.

I couldn't find any reason to choose the GRP Wilwood or the BOE Tilton. In some of the older threads I noticed some issues with adapter plates, which I assume are all corrected at this point.

Is one better than the other?
I don't think you'll go wrong with either. I have the Tiltron and the only issue during the install was the spacer that goes on the rod fork was too large and didn't allow the fork to connect with the pedal. It's easily removable. You may not have this issue with the 2014 model.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah that's what I was reading. I assume yours is an early metal MC, right?

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 10:27 AM
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I went tilton on my 2011. Has a very different feel but has worked fine.

Incase I'm asking for help with something: 2011 Evora N/A C/R 6sp with BOE TVS 1900 S/C kit
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 12:25 PM
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I think both are good options. I went with Wilwood from GRP. The install was straight forward - I think my decision was because I was buying other stuff from them at the same time.

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 01:47 PM
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I have installed the Wilwood on a 2011.

Nice quality piece and the installation as others have noted, went straight forward. Just be prepared to contort your body and arms.

Also, have some nice quality Needle nose handy. Will help with the cotter pins.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 02:01 PM
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Yeah that's what I was reading. I assume yours is an early metal MC, right?
Correct. Mine was the metal cylinder.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-18-2019, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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I have installed the Wilwood on a 2011.

Nice quality piece and the installation as others have noted, went straight forward. Just be prepared to contort your body and arms.

Also, have some nice quality Needle nose handy. Will help with the cotter pins.

Thanks for the tip. my needle nose are crappy and bent...been meaning to pick up new ones anyway.

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 12:25 PM
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jdolluc: Lotus has special order needle nose pliers specifically for the Evora. They cost $875.00 and are on backorder!
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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jdolluc: Lotus has special order needle nose pliers specifically for the Evora. They cost $875.00 and are on backorder!


no thanks, i'll swing by Home Depot or Lowes and buy some crap thats better than my bent ones lol

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2019, 04:40 PM
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no thanks, i'll swing by Home Depot or Lowes and buy some crap thats better than my bent ones lol
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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Ordering the Tilton from BOE - simply because the wilwood says its "special order".
Also ordered two .5 liter bottles of Motul RBF 600, an 8mm and an 11mm swiveling ratchet/open-end wrench, the motive 0100 pressure bleeder, and needle nose pliers.

$500 later...

what am I forgetting?

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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Oh also - it looks like the PDF link on BOE's site isn't working. Does anyone have the pdf laying around somewhere still? Want to save it off in case the link on their site doesn't come back up when I go to actually install..

Jon

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 10:32 AM
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You can use the instructions from the Wilwood/GRP/Chaos install since the process is the same. Of course it implies that you're removing the front clam, so if you were planning on doing it via the wheel well, you might be in uncharted waters, and will need to document that procedure to share with everyone else

If you run into any issues, post up and I'm sure one of us that's done the m/c swap before will chime in.
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File Type: pdf ChaosMCinstruct.pdf (1.44 MB, 11 views)
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 11:15 AM
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Ordering the Tilton from BOE - simply because the wilwood says its "special order".
Also ordered two .5 liter bottles of Motul RBF 600, an 8mm and an 11mm swiveling ratchet/open-end wrench, the motive 0100 pressure bleeder, and needle nose pliers.

$500 later...

what am I forgetting?

Doh!
Looks like we forgot to update our inventory.
We have two kits on the shelf currently. Sorry about that.
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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You can use the instructions from the Wilwood/GRP/Chaos install since the process is the same. Of course it implies that you're removing the front clam, so if you were planning on doing it via the wheel well, you might be in uncharted waters, and will need to document that procedure to share with everyone else

If you run into any issues, post up and I'm sure one of us that's done the m/c swap before will chime in.
Thanks. Derek also sent me the BOE steps, so I have both



And yep, planning on clam off. Waiting until it gets closer to the end of the good driving season to actually do the work, before I (mostly) tuck her away for the long Cleveland winter.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-20-2019, 01:13 PM
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what am I forgetting?
If you don't have metric flare nut wrenches, I'd recommend getting some. Open-end wrenches can sometimes round off the flare nuts at the unions.

And you'll probably want (or already have) a metric allen wrench set. Removing the clutch potentiometer is a good idea, and gives a bit more room in that cramped space. And removing the driver's seat also makes it less painful. Just be mindful of the seat belt sensor and seat heater connections (if so equipped).
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-13-2019, 03:37 PM
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I run the Wilwood on my ‘14. Previous owner shows at least one warranty replacement which failed soon after I got it. It is a clam-off install and no issues in last three years. While you are at it, use a high-temp fluid and put the extra wrap on the line near the slave cylinder.
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