Evora subwoofer (amp) fuse location? - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #1 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Evora subwoofer (amp) fuse location?

I've searched and searched, and I can't find any mention of where this fuse is located.

Didn't drive the evora for quite a while, and of course forgot to plug in the battery tender. So I do the ol' trick to open up the boot. I was in a somewhat of a hurry, and was planning on taking that car, so I put a 50A charge on it. Turned the key over, and heard a loud pop from the sub. Waited a minute, the car started, and now I don't have any output from my sub. Not sure if I exploded the speaker, or if the fuse blew. The battery was probably 100% dead for at least two weeks, maybe three.

All I've discovered is the fuse appears to be impossible to reach, but nobody has stated where it is located at.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 09:34 AM
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Behind the drivers seat near the sub but on the back wall there is amp . Maybe that fuse? Mine was blown when I got the car. Dealer fixed it. Seat parts are just velcro-ed in. Just yank it up. But....some of the sticky Velcro tape will come unstuck when you do it. I had to buy a bit more to reseat it.

It is #11 in this diagram.
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post #3 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chauncythecat View Post
All I've discovered is the fuse appears to be impossible to reach, but nobody has stated where it is located at.
The Rear Fusebox's R17 fuse in labeled for an amplifier--maybe that's the sub-woofer amp? There's
probably a fuse in the amplifier itself but I'd expect the R17 fuse to blow first. Hope this helps, and good luck.


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post #4 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-20-2015, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you very much for those diagrams. Checked the fuse panel, fuse is fine. Trying to get at that amplifier, but I'm hitting a wall here. Bottom part of the seat slid right out (saw the velcro) but the back part must be bolted in? I'm about 15" too tall to be working in the rear seat this car! lol


edit: found this extremely helpful thread about how to get to the amp. https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f417...55/index2.html Unfortunately I don't have that much time tonight, oh well, I guess I'll add this to my to-do list when I take the car out of storage. Been in the 20's here in Michigan the last week, and the car doesn't really like those temps..
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post #5 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-22-2015, 02:56 AM
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Side panel is VERY tricky to remove as witnesses watching my tech. Amp is behind it of course.

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post #6 of 44 (permalink) Old 10-22-2015, 06:21 AM
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My dealer just took all this apart to get to my sub and amp. They said there are some single-use clips back there too.

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post #7 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-01-2016, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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A year later, and 400 subwooferless miles traveled, I decided to rip apart the back part of the evora to take a look.
http://i.imgur.com/Lfw9P2Y.jpg

I found that my subwoofer is going into a constant red flashing light mode. It will go green for a second, and then 5 sequences of rapid flashing lights and then shut down. It restarts only to do the same thing in an endless loop. I removed the sub and wiring, and it still does the same thing, so I'm guessing the amp is just toast.

I was happy with the stock subwoofer (when it worked) but I would like to get this going again. It looks like the mounting holes are 4" x 6" for the stock amp, has anyone came across a plug and play amp for this application?

Or something even better, who has swapped out this crappy amp for some super amazing audiophile stuff and is willing to part with their crap stock amp?

Last edited by chauncythecat; 09-01-2016 at 12:51 PM.
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post #8 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 05:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quick update on this. When I put the car back together with a new amp (from DerekOfBass's MY14 (same amp as in my MY12) on this forum, thanks dude!!) I had a awful rattle which ended up being the fuse from my old amp fell down in a small opening on the floor, and would vibrate like crazy every time the bass hit, so I had to rip it back apart.

Now that I know how the car is put together, ripping out the back seats and side panel is about a 10 minute job, and putting it back together is 15 minutes. I found a set of instructions on another thread that included removing the side sill in order to remove the rear interior panel. This was not necessary.

1. Remove bottom seat (velcro)
2. Remove head rests. (take hand and hit them up, they pop right off)
3. Remove back vertical seat, 4 bolts.
4. remove window covering leather thingy around the back window. 2 bolts, then it just pops out
5. remove seat belt upper mount, 1 bolt.
6. remove side panel with 2 bolts. Slides right out from under the side sill.

The new amp works perfectly, and I can't believe I lived for a year driving the evora without it working when it was only an hour fix. The stereo sucks to begin with in these cars, but that little sub definitely adds a lot of depth.

If you are having amp issues, and the fuse is good, you can take apart the rear of the car to check the status lights on the amp. Mine was going from flashing green to red, then flashing 3 times before going solid, which alpine told me it was going into protection, and to replace it, or have it repaired.
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post #9 of 44 (permalink) Old 09-12-2016, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chauncythecat View Post
Quick update on this. When I put the car back together with a new amp (from DerekOfBass's MY14 (same amp as in my MY12) on this forum, thanks dude!!) I had a awful rattle which ended up being the fuse from my old amp fell down in a small opening on the floor, and would vibrate like crazy every time the bass hit, so I had to rip it back apart.
No problem, bud. Happy to help, and glad it worked out for you.

Not that I've gotten rid of the tweeters and amp, I should probably try to part out the rest of this stuff in the classifieds.. lol!

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post #10 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-05-2018, 11:29 PM
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I finally received my new 2017 Evora 400, but the subwoofer doesn’t work. I configured the radio via TuneIt, but still nothing. Then, thanks to this forum, I took off the drivers side rear fuse box cover, but there is a silver box with one bolt attached to the wall that is blocking access to the fuses. Can someone please tell me how to gain access to the #17 fuse once I have the access panel off? Do you just remove the bolt and slide the silver box out of the way?
(Dealer is 90 miles away) Thanks!!
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post #11 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-06-2018, 08:10 AM
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That "silver box" you described is the ECU. The fuses can be a PITA getting out. I don't own a 400 but the setup is pretty the same as the S1's. They are tucked back there. I use angled pliers and a small telescoping mirror (to make sure I am pulling the right one) on mine. I can only see about half of the fuses as the rest are hidden behind the panel. I know, it really shouldn't be this hard to remove/replace a fuse.

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post #12 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-06-2018, 12:25 PM
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Thank you for the info!!
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post #13 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 08:31 PM
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I was able to verify the fuse in the fuse box was not blown. It was like a game of Operation trying to get the fuse in/out without dropping it while using curved needle nose pliers.

Now I need to check the amp in the subwoofer area.
Does anybody have the procedure to get at the amp in a 2017 Evora 400? I tried to look at the method above, but they don’t match with my car.

Any tips to get the head unit out would be appreciated as I may need to check the amp/sub connection too. Thanks all!!
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post #14 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 08:53 AM
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The HU removal is pretty easy, I've removed/replaced mine a few times. I would suggest ordering a set of auto trim removal tools off of Amazon, you can pick a set up for under $15. I have removed tons of the interior and those tools have proven to be very valuable. You will first need to remove the aluminum surround....be careful and use the tools or you risk bending it and it's not cheap to replace. With the tools carefully work your way around the trim near the clips to pry them loose. There are 4 clips holding it in place. One near the hazard light, one on top and two on the side. Once the trim is removed unplug the two connectors, one for the hazards and the 2nd for the button array. Then remove the 4 screws securing the HU.

Clip locations so you know where to pry:
one about a 1/2 inch below the hazard button
one on the left hand top corner (just above the head unit's top left corner)
two on the far left hand side of the trim next to the steering column (I forget which one but these can be a PITA).

Hope this helps.
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post #15 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 10:11 AM
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You guys are good ... very good. I haven't had this problem (yet), but this is a great example of the "pitch in and help the other guy" spirit that permeates this website.
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post #16 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 02:47 PM
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Thanks for the HU tips!! Anybody have advice for accessing the amp?
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post #17 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 04:26 PM
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To access the amp:
Lift up and remove the lower seat cushion as it is just Velcro holding it on. You'll now have access to the backrest bottom bolts

To remove the seat backs, first remove the head rests, they are held on by some metal clips that secure to the metal rod supports. Hit the bottom of the head rest with the palm of your hand firmly and they will pop off. You'll now have access to the top bolts holding the backrest.

Continue on to remove the rear window surround. I used a twisting up and to the left while lifting towards me motion to remove it. It is held on by clips as well.
You can now reach the amp.

You then move on to the passenger side sill cover. Using one of the appropriate upholstery tools...gently pry out the two fir trees holding it in place (no need to remove the passenger seat to do this). Pry up on the sill, it is now only held on by Velcro. Remove and set it aside.

Removing the rear window surround and side sill is needed as they blocks you from removing the side panel.

With the side sill, bottom seat/back cushion and rear window surround out...you'll now be able to remove the side panel. After removing a few bolts that secure the panel that are in plain site (there are also a few more clips) pull the panel...the clips will release. This will give you easy access to the amp, the backup cam module and the sub.

Can you tell I've done this a few times. . All in all you do it once and next time you have to, you can literally remove all the pieces in about 15mins once you have the process down.

EDIT: oh shoot, forgot you have a 400. The steps are about the same but for a reference here are the service notes for interior removal of a 400.

http://vsic.lotuscars.com/system/fil..._Evora_400.pdf
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Last edited by Mobius97; 11-29-2018 at 04:50 PM.
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post #18 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-29-2018, 08:42 PM
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You are awesome Mobius97. Thank you!!
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post #19 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-30-2018, 08:08 AM
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Holy Cow! All that is to fix one speaker? Looks like a space shuttle repair to me.
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post #20 of 44 (permalink) Old 11-30-2018, 08:54 AM
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You are awesome Mobius97. Thank you!!
You're welcome! Anytime!

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