Help - at track, limp mode after second session. - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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Help - Limp Mode

Turning on and off did nothing... letting car sit for 30 min now... no codes were thrown... any suggestions?

Last edited by dogtag114; 08-30-2019 at 04:27 AM.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 07:40 AM
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We’re there any lights thrown on the dash? Of course, the first thing to check is to make sure your brake pedal position sensor isn’t stuck or sticky. Usually that will trigger one of the ABS lights to pop on though.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
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Yes ESP OFF... that’s is only display and no fault code... did get back on road but went back into limp after first straight away any turn.

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 07:59 AM
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I'm not going to be much help but the more details you can provide the better. 100% stock or what changes have been made to the car? Age of fluids? Pad life? Do you have a code reader or just going by the CEL on the dash?
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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Two different code readers... nothing. Car has 2000 miles on it... basically all newish
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 08:15 AM
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If the brake switch is bad, it will trigger limp mode after braking. In my case, it happened right after taking my foot off the brake pedal. That could be happening as you slow down for a turn. There are several threads on here about adjusting the plunger depth by pulling it out a notch or two. You can try that as a free, quick check.

Otherwise, it could be another sensor that’s gotten dirty or broken. I’m thinking wheel speed sensor as a possibility.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ShadowWulf369 View Post
If the brake switch is bad, it will trigger limp mode after braking. In my case, it happened right after taking my foot off the brake pedal. That could be happening as you slow down for a turn. There are several threads on here about adjusting the plunger depth by pulling it out a notch or two. You can try that as a free, quick check.

Otherwise, it could be another sensor that’s gotten dirty or broken. I’m thinking wheel speed sensor as a possibility.
Is this it? The white plunger? I’ll search now
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 08:28 AM
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 08:39 AM
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Is this it? The white plunger? I’ll search now
Yes, that's the brake position sensor. You should be able to remove it with a quarter turn then be able to adjust the length of the plunger. There's a ribbed shaft in the sensor that the plunger connects to via friction. You should be able to extend the plunger by pulling out on it slowly. It will take a bunch of force, especially for the first time, but you can extend it a few notches before the plunger falls off, which isn't a problem, you just click it back on.

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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Is this it? The white plunger? I’ll search now
Yes, that's the brake position sensor. You should be able to remove it with a quarter turn then be able to adjust the length of the plunger. There's a ribbed shaft in the sensor that the plunger connects to via friction. You should be able to extend the plunger by pulling out on it slowly. It will take a bunch of force, especially for the first time, but you can extend it a few notches before the plunger falls off, which isn't a problem, you just click it back on.
I just pulled in it two clicks and it was good a few miles... does a quarter turn lock it? Could it have never been turned?

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 09:16 AM
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I just pulled in it two clicks and got a full lap... does a quarter turn lock it? Could it have never been turned?
The quarter turn is just to get the sensor out of the aluminum bracket that supports the sensor. The plunger has antirotation ribs on the sides so it can’t spin around the ribbed shaft. The entire sensor will be secured back in the aluminum bracket by a quarter turn.

If this solved the issue, the sensor is likely on the way out, and you should likely replace it sooner rather than later. Luckily, it’s cheap and GRP sells a replacement.

https://www.gregsraceparts.com/colle...e-pedal-switch

Edit: and yes, it’s possible the sensor could have been loose in the bracket, but highly unlikely. Usually these sensors get dirty and just stop reading well. The extra depth of the plunger will help it read in a slightly different spot, but it will fail eventually if it began failing where it was. I’m not sure of an Evora owner that hasn’t needed to replace this sensor at least once.

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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If I pull it out, the brake return just “clicks it back it”. Is there a way to lock it?
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 09:46 AM
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If I pull it out, the brake return just “clicks it back it”. Is there a way to lock it?
From my experience, no. If it's clicking back in, then the plunger is just too far out for the sensor's travel. All the sensor should need is for the plunger to touch the brake pedal when the pedal is not depressed as it doesn't need to travel far to know when the brake moves.

When I adjusted my sensor, I accidentally pulled it all the way out right away. When putting it back in, I put it in 3 clicks. That was where mine worked for a short while, before failing again a few weeks later.

What you could do is try adjusting the plunger inward so the pedal just depresses the plunger. I believe the trick is to find a different spot in the sensor that still works because the sensor is dirty internally. So either in or out. Seems like out might not be the way, or maybe the two clicks you tried was too much and only one click is needed.

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 09:54 AM
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Another option is to find the generic switch at a local part store. It goes by the number SLS334, 22712549, 4617551, or 5106141. The only trick to the generic one is you have to sand off two retention tabs to make it fit. I did this route and the switch worked without any plunger adjustment right out of the box after removing the tabs with a pocket knife. I've linked the Rock Auto generic switch below if you want to try to find it locally.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...513636&jsn=258
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 10:50 AM
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For more brake switch info, also see Julian73's post from back in '17. It has a link to a brake switch TSB regarding lubricating switches to prevent further issue.
Its post # 46 here: https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f17...ml#post5470714

Then click on: SB-10058909-6650[1].pdf
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowWulf369 View Post
Another option is to find the generic switch at a local part store. It goes by the number SLS334, 22712549, 4617551, or 5106141. The only trick to the generic one is you have to sand off two retention tabs to make it fit. I did this route and the switch worked without any plunger adjustment right out of the box after removing the tabs with a pocket knife. I've linked the Rock Auto generic switch below if you want to try to find it locally.
I have to say that I'm always impressed with the level of help everyone on the forum is willing to do.

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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks All... I made it home from a long drive. I think this is likely it as I went I to limp mode twice on the way home also... both time I pulled over, tugged on the plunger a little, removed the key and restarted the car... both times fixed it. I have some warranty left so I’ll let the dealer work on that and my untucked seat.
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-25-2019, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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I’ve had no issues since Friday... only thing I did since then was to lock it... I saw in another post on Facebook that locking may be a better reset then just turning on and off and removing key... can this be true?
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