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post #101 of 122 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 03:16 AM
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an alternative?



Car Ramps
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post #102 of 122 (permalink) Old 06-29-2017, 10:34 AM
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By my calculation it's half the price, or less. Four Jack Point jack stands = $600 plus the jack. Four HF jacks ($59/each) plus four jack stoppers ($50/4) = $286.
2 Jackpoint stands, 2 regular tripod jacks and 1 HF jack ... Jackpoints are only needed at lift points, the aft points raise the whole side of the car. While jackpoints are expensive, I have been loving mine for over 3 years now. Jack, position 2 stands, move to other side, jack position final 2 stands. Its almost as quick as lifing an F1 car.

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post #103 of 122 (permalink) Old 08-15-2017, 07:19 AM
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ESCO Jack Stands

Hi All,

Just got my Evora and I am figuring out how best to get the car on jack stands. I have a question: if I were to get ESCO jack stands would I get the standard 10498 or the low profile 10499 ones.

Thanks
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post #104 of 122 (permalink) Old 08-15-2017, 07:33 AM
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I have a set of 4 of the standard ones for my Elise, and they are amazing. Your car is as stable sitting on those as it is on the ground. I've gotten the car about 18" off the ground, and I still had room to go higher. It would require some creative lifting to do so, though.

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post #105 of 122 (permalink) Old 08-15-2017, 09:14 AM
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Just got my Evora and I am figuring out how best to get the car on jack stands. I have a question: if I were to get ESCO jack stands would I get the standard 10498 or the low profile 10499 ones.
You'll need at least 1 jack, probably low-profile "racing" style. You lift from either of the rear lift points, and it'll lift that whole side of the car, enough to place a jack stand under the front lift point on the same side. Then you move the jack and lift the other side, and place the other front jack stand. Then you can either place the rear tire on a ramp/blocks, or if you need all 4 wheels in the air, I use hydraulic jack stands on the rear two lift points after placing them temporarily on my race ramps.

Kind of a pain, but better than punching holes through the underside by lifting from places you shouldn't.

2011 Evora NA - Phantom Black | Paprika | MT | 2+.5
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post #106 of 122 (permalink) Old 08-15-2017, 10:11 AM
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Check with Shinoo (can't ever remember the name of his new company) I bought a nifty lifty that you use on the underside and lift the car from the back then you can set it on jack stands with the lifting bar or put the jacks stands at the jacking points. Made my life much easier. Here is the same one on the sector 111 site

niftyLIFTY
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post #107 of 122 (permalink) Old 08-15-2017, 03:16 PM
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Thanks for the responses.

I like the niftyLIFTY as it enables the back of the car to be lifted with one jack while enabling jack stands to be used at the appropriate jacking points. From the Sector111 web site and the response from @lobuzz311 the standard ESCO jack stands will work fine (and potentially get the car up higher).

I was thinking the jacking sequence getting the complete car off all 4 wheels would be:

1. Using one of the rear jacking points and a low profile jack raise the car. Place a jack stand under the front jacking point and a Race/Rhino ramp under the rear wheel. Remove the jack
2. Do the same on the other side
3. Use the niftyLIFTY to jack the car up at the rear and place the two other jack stands on the niftyLIFTY at the jacking points.

Sound plausible?
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post #108 of 122 (permalink) Old 08-15-2017, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert Esser View Post
Thanks for the responses.

I like the niftyLIFTY as it enables the back of the car to be lifted with one jack while enabling jack stands to be used at the appropriate jacking points. From the Sector111 web site and the response from @lobuzz311 the standard ESCO jack stands will work fine (and potentially get the car up higher).

I was thinking the jacking sequence getting the complete car off all 4 wheels would be:

1. Using one of the rear jacking points and a low profile jack raise the car. Place a jack stand under the front jacking point and a Race/Rhino ramp under the rear wheel. Remove the jack
2. Do the same on the other side
3. Use the niftyLIFTY to jack the car up at the rear and place the two other jack stands on the niftyLIFTY at the jacking points.

Sound plausible?
Here is the link to niftyLIFTY at InoKinetic
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post #109 of 122 (permalink) Old 08-15-2017, 04:07 PM
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Here is the link to niftyLIFTY at InoKinetic
Thanks! I think they need to change their name to something easier to remember!


Just wish they would carry more for the Evoras.
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post #110 of 122 (permalink) Old 08-15-2017, 07:19 PM
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Here is a similar devise from Harbor Freight. I have not tried it but I believe Sherman from Hethelsport recommended it?s use on the Evora. I am going to try it out soon.

https://m.harborfreight.com/steel-fl...k.com%2Fforums

Daily Driven Lotus - formerly 2011 Evora S, then 2017 Evora 400. Now with 2014 Smart E-Drive
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post #111 of 122 (permalink) Old 08-15-2017, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert Esser View Post
Thanks for the responses.

I like the niftyLIFTY as it enables the back of the car to be lifted with one jack while enabling jack stands to be used at the appropriate jacking points. From the Sector111 web site and the response from @lobuzz311 the standard ESCO jack stands will work fine (and potentially get the car up higher).

I was thinking the jacking sequence getting the complete car off all 4 wheels would be:

1. Using one of the rear jacking points and a low profile jack raise the car. Place a jack stand under the front jacking point and a Race/Rhino ramp under the rear wheel. Remove the jack
2. Do the same on the other side
3. Use the niftyLIFTY to jack the car up at the rear and place the two other jack stands on the niftyLIFTY at the jacking points.

Sound plausible?
Exactly the way that I do it and I have had no issues so far.
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post #112 of 122 (permalink) Old 08-16-2017, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by hypaspazz View Post
Exactly the way that I do it and I have had no issues so far.

So how do you drop the diffuser and under tray to perform work. The Niffybar seems to be traversing it.

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Last edited by Julian73; 08-19-2017 at 02:06 PM.
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post #113 of 122 (permalink) Old 08-18-2017, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iDuc View Post
Here is a similar devise from Harbor Freight. I have not tried it but I believe Sherman from Hethelsport recommended it?s use on the Evora. I am going to try it out soon.

https://m.harborfreight.com/steel-fl...k.com%2Fforums
Yep, that was me! I use this under the suspension pickup points* with a low profile jack and then use traditional jacks under the official jack points.

*which are not a prescriptive jack point but the suspension is tied there so it should be okay

If you're using the Esco Jack's, this is a nice addition: Pivot-Topô Posts. It's certainly not a necessity but then again, nearly nothing in our garage is.

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post #114 of 122 (permalink) Old 08-19-2017, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by HethelSport View Post
Yep, that was me! I use this under the suspension pickup points* with a low profile jack and then use traditional jacks under the official jack points.

*which are not a prescriptive jack point but the suspension is tied there so it should be okay

If you're using the Esco Jack's, this is a nice addition: Pivot-Top™ Posts. It's certainly not a necessity but then again, nearly nothing in our garage is.
Pivot-top posts, Nice .. just ordered a set
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'17 Evora Sport 410 GP (No. 1 of 9) LMS alloy pan, BOE headers, SSC harness bar
'12 Evora S GP (No. 1 of 14) BOE Prototype S 430 **SOLD**

Last edited by Julian73; 08-19-2017 at 02:24 PM.
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post #115 of 122 (permalink) Old 08-19-2017, 03:45 PM
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Apologies for not replying sooner. I jack each side of the car and put a jack stand under the front lift point and place a race ramp under the back tire. I use the niftylifty to lift both back wheels up and then place two jack stands under the rear lift points; then lowering the hydraulic jack and niftylifty. When done I have four jack stands supporting the car on the four lift points.
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post #116 of 122 (permalink) Old 12-04-2018, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by HethelSport View Post
Yep, that was me! I use this under the suspension pickup points* with a low profile jack and then use traditional jacks under the official jack points.

*which are not a prescriptive jack point but the suspension is tied there so it should be okay

If you're using the Esco Jack's, this is a nice addition: Pivot-Topô Posts. It's certainly not a necessity but then again, nearly nothing in our garage is.
Can somebody please share exactly where these suspension pick up points are? Is this where the A arm attaches to the chassis at the rear side of the A arm?

Also, can somebody take a pic of exactly where the Nifty Lifty picks up the rear?

TIA~!
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post #117 of 122 (permalink) Old 12-05-2018, 09:30 AM
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Can somebody please share exactly where these suspension pick up points are? Is this where the A arm attaches to the chassis at the rear side of the A arm?

Also, can somebody take a pic of exactly where the Nifty Lifty picks up the rear?

TIA~!
I don't have a picture of the Nifty Lifty in action (but I do own one as well as a 2 post lift), but the nifty lifty spans across both of point B in the below picture (borrowed from SELOC). So, when you get the nifty lifty, you put the bolts in where the nifty lifty is the widest (the inner bolts are Elise, I believe). Put a jack under the car, put the nifty lifty on top of the jack spanning both "B" and lift up the rear. Does that make sense?
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'11 Evora
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post #118 of 122 (permalink) Old 12-07-2018, 07:16 AM
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I don't have a picture of the Nifty Lifty in action (but I do own one as well as a 2 post lift), but the nifty lifty spans across both of point B in the below picture (borrowed from SELOC). So, when you get the nifty lifty, you put the bolts in where the nifty lifty is the widest (the inner bolts are Elise, I believe). Put a jack under the car, put the nifty lifty on top of the jack spanning both "B" and lift up the rear. Does that make sense?
That is not where they show in their video... They show the pick up points being at the seam of the diffusor to the seam of the first aluminum underbody panel. There is a chassis bar at that point.

For all of those who read this thread at a later date with the same issues as the people here, here is how i solved this issue:

1. Bought the $47 Harbor Freight bar with (2) lift points that was mentioned a few posts up. I set the points exactly where Sector111 video for the NiftyLifty shows the jack stands at... Where the rear A arms attach to the chassis at the rear most connection point. There is like a triangle gap where no underbody panels cover the chassis at these (2) points. Set both rubber lift pads on this exposed triangle piece of the chassis.

2. Used my lift to lift the car using the above (2) points. Worked perfectly.

3. With car lifted up now with a single Harbor Freight 4 ton jack and the Harbor Freight spreader lift bar, I then placed (2) jack stands under the rear designated lift points.

4. To get it back, reverse process.
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post #119 of 122 (permalink) Old 12-07-2018, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by HethelSport View Post
Yep, that was me! I use this under the suspension pickup points* with a low profile jack and then use traditional jacks under the official jack points.

*which are not a prescriptive jack point but the suspension is tied there so it should be okay

If you're using the Esco Jack's, this is a nice addition: Pivot-Topô Posts. It's certainly not a necessity but then again, nearly nothing in our garage is.

This is exactly what I did. Worked like a charm.
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post #120 of 122 (permalink) Old 06-07-2019, 04:57 PM
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Pivot-top posts, Nice .. just ordered a set
Julian, How has your workflow for jacking the car changed now that you have the pivot-top post to jack up the rear in additon to Jackpoint stands?
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