Just purchased Evora S, CEL next day... - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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Just purchased Evora S, CEL next day...

So just traded in my 15’ Z51 Stingray for a Chrome Orange 14’ Evora S 2+2 IPS with 5500 miles and a build date of March 2014. I did all of my research on this forum (been on a ton of car forums, know the drill), found out about the wiring harness issues, etc. common stuff, found out the history of the car by calling all dealers it’s been to for service, got full history, Carfax, etc. According to a thread here, Lotus dropped the bad supplier and used a new harness as of late 2013 builds and on... So I was semi confident buying a 3/2014 build. Only thing I didn’t do was get an inspection done but something came up that limited my time and with 5500 miles and my research I took the chance. The car was about 900 miles away so I drove my Stingray up, looked it over with a fine toothed comb, and test drove. All was well.

Drove the Evora home straight barely stopping the entire 13+ hours. No issues whatsoever until I pulled into my driveway and the CEL popped on. I turned it off for a minute then tried to turn it back on and nothing, not even a click but had full battery. I was pissed... Came back 30 min later and she cranked no problem. That night I researched code readers on here and whether AutoZones little Actrons would work. Well, the proprietary AZ reader wouldn’t push the codes out to their computers, but I read them. Then I tried a cheap little Actron pocket they had and boom, got this:

P0456 cnf
P0456 pnd
P0456 prm

Maybe not in that order. Researched again and found “very small Evap leak”. My first thought: gas cap. Took off and tightened and erased codes and drove home. Here I sit and I’ll see if they come back.

Am I the right path? Anything related to these codes that I should know or any others with experience with them? Praying it’s a gas cap. She’s also out of warranty as of 9/17. I knew this prior and know I have to pay to play if i have issues.

TIA for the helps guys.
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 10:02 AM
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Clear the code with a code reader and see if they return. The gas cap should be tightened 3 clicks (its somewhere on this site).

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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 10:03 AM
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I think you got a great buy on that Car! Enjoy...
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by \Boost Monkey/ View Post
<snip>I turned it off for a minute then tried to turn it back on and nothing, not even a click but had full battery. </snip>
You won't get a click if the immobilizer re-enables, which it does after ~40 seconds once the car is off. I just make it a habit of always hitting the unlock button on the fob before starting the car, regardless of when I unlocked the car.
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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You won't get a click if the immobilizer re-enables, which it does after ~40 seconds once the car is off. I just make it a habit of always hitting the unlock button on the fob before starting the car, regardless of when I unlocked the car.
Aahhh, ok well that makes me feel better.

FYI, the first owner only drove the car 1500 miles in just shy of 3 years of ownership.

During that time:

-ECM was replaced
-MANY batteries were replaced
-“Electrical system” (something pertaining to the battery charging system I believe) was replaced.
-All spark plugs were replaced from being not used I suppose, said “soot on plug tips”
-o2 sensors codes cleared from just driving the car and clearing the exhaust system and resetting codes
-And they said something about being set to low voltage so they changed that and cleared codes.

It seems he never drove it all thus I believe his constant problems.

2nd owner put from 1500 to 5500 miles on it and the only things he had done from August 17 to sell in Feb 18 was:

Battery replaced again
Rear tires replaced
Brake fluid flush
Normal service/oil change
Fixed a cosmetic issue with interior panel
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 11:45 AM
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Congrats on your purchase!

Low battery voltage causes all sorts of weird issues on these cars. The most common is an air bag light. But, there are several other (some have attributed cold start issues to low battery voltage).

Best bet is to buy a good tender and always plug it in when not using the car.

Good luck!
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
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Congrats on your purchase!

Low battery voltage causes all sorts of weird issues on these cars. The most common is an air bag light. But, there are several other (some have attributed cold start issues to low battery voltage).

Best bet is to buy a good tender and always plug it in when not using the car.

Good luck!
Thanks, and from what I have read parasitic draw issues are prevalent in the Evora (of course vary car to car).

I would assume most or many members here all use tenders if it’s not their DD?
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 01:45 PM
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Just letting you know that my '14 S did need a harness replaced a couple of months ago (at 10,000 miles). I had read that the issue was fixed, so I was not expecting it. The car had issues going into limp mode 1-2 times/wk and ran rough once or twice. It was traced back to the need for a wiring harness. My dealer said that when discussing with Lotus, they have done it one another one also since the change was made in harnesses.
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 02:18 PM
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Always look for the red circle on the right gauge.. If it's on you need to disable the immobilizer. Nothing to worry about on your end.
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Just letting you know that my '14 S did need a harness replaced a couple of months ago (at 10,000 miles). I had read that the issue was fixed, so I was not expecting it. The car had issues going into limp mode 1-2 times/wk and ran rough once or twice. It was traced back to the need for a wiring harness. My dealer said that when discussing with Lotus, they have done it one another one also since the change was made in harnesses.
Great... ^_^ I was hoping the new harnesses were the fix.

What was your build date?

Also, are you out of warranty and if so, what was the total damage?

Last edited by \Boost Monkey/; 03-17-2018 at 02:48 PM.
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 02:13 AM
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My ‘14 had an April 2014 build date. It was still under warranty, so not sure about the cost.
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 07:34 AM
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And when you are using the tender, make sure you flip the latch on the trunk to turn the trunk lights off. They even left a simple tab on the side to flip it back to normal when you are ready to put it back to normal
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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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My ‘14 had an April 2014 build date. It was still under warranty, so not sure about the cost.
Well... That sucks to know....

You said in your earlier post that Lotus (not your dealer) said that they have seen this happen on one other car with the newer harness?

I’m hoping it’s a more rare situation than the first harness.
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 09:26 AM
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I use my 2010 about twice a week, and hear and there left it unused for 2-3 weeks, never had an issue, got 2.5 years old standard (heavy) battery.

The Evora is no different than any other car, except the poor quality British assembly.

The hard part is to find mechanic who's familiar with this issue, and to get it done right.
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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 12:32 PM
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Thanks, and from what I have read parasitic draw issues are prevalent in the Evora (of course vary car to car).

I would assume most or many members here all use tenders if it’s not their DD?
The parasitic draw is even higher if you arm the alarm, due to the microwave sensor in the center console. If you leave your car unlocked, it'll be less.

I drive mine 2-3 times a week, and put it on the tender any time I won't be driving it for 3+ days.
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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-20-2018, 10:05 AM
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And when you are using the tender, make sure you flip the latch on the trunk to turn the trunk lights off. They even left a simple tab on the side to flip it back to normal when you are ready to put it back to normal
There's enough of a gap that the trunk lid can be closed without pinching off the tender cord. A lot of us also replaced the trunk lights with LED's so if the trunk is inadvertently left open, the draw on the battery won't be as much. We've had a couple of people on the board who've drained their battery while on a tender because they left the trunk open enough to leave the OEM lights on.
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-21-2018, 04:29 AM
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I drove my Evora daily and never had a single electrical or CEL issue FWIW. The car was stored outside as well.

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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-21-2018, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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There's enough of a gap that the trunk lid can be closed without pinching off the tender cord. A lot of us also replaced the trunk lights with LED's so if the trunk is inadvertently left open, the draw on the battery won't be as much. We've had a couple of people on the board who've drained their battery while on a tender because they left the trunk open enough to leave the OEM lights on.
The tender (Battery Tender Plus) came in yesterday and I hooked it up to my car last night. I activated the hatch lock closed with my fingers to kill the trunk lights, and then gently sat the hatch down to where the closed latch sits on the latch hook with a folder microfiber towel in between the closed latch and latch hook in the trunk.

Put the tender on at around 7:00pm, and at around 9am this morning, the light on the tender was solid green.
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-21-2018, 10:09 AM
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The tender (Battery Tender Plus) came in yesterday and I hooked it up to my car last night. I activated the hatch lock closed with my fingers to kill the trunk lights, and then gently sat the hatch down to where the closed latch sits on the latch hook with a folder microfiber towel in between the closed latch and latch hook in the trunk.

Put the tender on at around 7:00pm, and at around 9am this morning, the light on the tender was solid green.
No need to go to that trouble - just close the trunk on the cord. I've done this for years with zero issues. When I first got the car I did what you did but would frequently forget that I had manually closed the latch to the trunk and have it CLUNK against the striker when I tried to close it.

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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-21-2018, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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No need to go to that trouble - just close the trunk on the cord. I've done this for years with zero issues. When I first got the car I did what you did but would frequently forget that I had manually closed the latch to the trunk and have it CLUNK against the striker when I tried to close it.
Yeah I read that I could close it... But the worrying part of me thinks it's safer to leave the hatch not closed while it sits. This way, if the tender fails or the battery fails or whatever I have instant access to my trunk in the event that the battery dies without having to worry about if the e-handle under the seat will work to open the trunk.

Again, it's the worrying part of me, but i've read one too many posts on here about getting locked out of the trunk and the e-handle not working. It's not worth it when my car is safety in the garage and there's no need to close the hatch fully.
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