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Need to remove undertray to access clutch slave cylinder to bleed the system
A few times now my clutch has required pumping up while driving for a while, and the pedal seems a bit softer than normal on occasion. I'm hoping this is due to air in the system, and my car does have 25k miles on it, and presumably hasn't had a brake or clutch bleed for five years or so. If I'm not mistaken, 25k miles is the recommended service interval for the brake and clutch fluid.
When I bought it they did warranty work to install a heatshield for the clutch hydraulic line in the engine bay, and I believe replaced the clutch master cylinder, though I'd have to look for the paperwork.
What's the best way to remove the undertray and get sufficient access to the engine bay to access the slave cylinder for bleeding? Will a set of rhino ramps do it? With the ramps in place is it still possible to put a floor/scissor jack under the jackpoints, in case one of the ramps fails?
Should I try to put more heat wrap on the line when I'm down there?
Should I bleed the brakes after the clutch? (Shared reservoir.)
What's a recommended pressure bleeding system for single-person bleeding?
I have a 4 post lift, so I haven't done the the fluid change on jacks or stands. But, it should be doable although not as easy. There are several threads of getting the car up on stands so ramps are not in the way... https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f170/jack-stands-94366/
Follow the threads on clutch/brake bleeding and you should be fine. Pretty much everything has been covered. There are several of them with good information including in the how-to section: https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f417/
I only use Castrol React SRF as its rated as one of the best. To me its worth the extra money to not have an issue with loss of pedal. The recommended change interval is 2 years but most of us change it yearly as a precaution. Once again, its worth it to me as piece of mind.
Although mine had the preventative wrap placed on the line, I was not happy with how much was still exposed. So, I added a second (and more thorough) layer.
I use the Motive pressure bleeder when doing my car. It's definitely easier with a lift, but can be done with just jacks/ramps/stands. And when doing a flush, I believe the service notes mention to do the slave cylinder first, then the brake calipers. From furthest away from the reservoir to the closest (e.g. right rear, left rear, right front, left front).
Wow! Every year? I must be the most negligent Evora owner out there. I should've done it at least twice by now, according to the book.
Thanks for the information and the video. Every so often I look up videos on how to lift the Evora for various tasks, and it seems the information out there has gotten clearer. I like the idea of jacking it up and setting the wheels on stands, rather than driving up ramps.
At least the good news is that this should improve my pedal problem and feel.
I'll check the threads and my service notes to find the proper procedure. Not sure how I'll do the brakes at the same time as having it on ramps, though, unless the nipple is accessible with the wheel on. (But I've been meaning to get the wheels off anyway, to do a rotation and check the brake wear.)
I have to take the front clamshell off to swap in a new condenser and a tighter mesh grill behind the existing one (damn rocks), so maybe when I'll do that I'll examine my MC and replace with a better unit if necessary.
For those who know: what's a good height for wheel stands/ramps? I see these that have a 10" lift: [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Race-Ramps-RR-WC-10-Wheel-Crib/dp/B003ZAGPWO[/ame]
But I saw in this thread (https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f170/ramps-327961/) they were recommending these, [ame]https://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11912ABMI-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Ramp/dp/B0117EESNC[/ame]), which are only 6.5" lift.
Bleeding, flushing brakes is easy. But accessing the clutch bleed is an interesting experience. One of those “touch it or see it, but not both” deals.
The Motive pressure device is great. We used ATF and alternate blue and amber. Yes you can still get the blue (banned in US as a danger to us all) online.
Thanks for the instructions, I'll print them out and use them when I tackle this. Also thanks for the link, XHILR8N. I've seen that thread before, but, as the poster says (and you all say), you can't see it very clearly, you have to feel it. But it gives me a rough idea.
I was planning on getting the Motive, but I wasn't sure if it was suitable for this top-down procedure until now.
The blue stuff sounds good, in that you know when you've hit new fluid.
I've had bad luck with those small, magnet-attached bleeder bottles slipping and spilling. The magnet unglued from one of them too. Of course I need to take serious measures to keep it off my paint.
When I did mine, I did it on a lift from underneath all by feel. At 240lbs I can't stand in the trunk without needing to replace the trunk afterward, haha!
ATF Blue is a bit hard to find. Where do you all find it? Do you resort to international sellers?
Lotus seems to recommend React Performance DOT 4, but that also needs to be imported. I was hoping I could find a high-boiling point DOT 4 domestically.
As a 3% moisture content is a Wet fluid and without flushing after every race weekend you will easily be at 3% or higher, 1 year flush cycles should focus on that figure.
Castrol SRF is obviously the superior product and the cost is reflected. I have always stuck with ATE Type 200 because I have never had issues with it, it is much more cost effective and half the cost. I bleed before every track day so the cooked product is removed. Over course of a season I am sure things get cycled through at least 3X. I have had a fail with an old container of AP Super 600. Container was sealed but was dark upon opening and not knowing differently (thought this was the color of the product) found it to boil real easy. complete flush required...anbd was appaently given bad advice as its not compatible ...... well that was years ago now.
I'm having no end of trouble getting the tube on the slave cylinder nipple. I got it on once and started the bleed, but pressure made it push off. The heat shield requires the tube to make a sharp turn, and the one I have is thick and doesn't want to get on there. Of course auto parts stores around here don't have a good selection of tubing.
Either mine didn't come with a nipple cap, or the tech that originally serviced the car back in the day never put it back on after he bled it.
And, to be honest, I didn't even realize it wasn't there when I bled it myself. But, now that you mentioned it, I'll get a cap to put back on mine. :grin2:
After much difficulty and searching for tubes, I found a rubber fuel line at Auto Zone that could actually fit on the nipple at that crazy angle, and I managed to bleed the whole system
I still bleed it from underneath (with a catch bottle) since I have it on a lift with the wheels off to do the clutch and brakes. But, it certainly is doable from up above too. Either way, you have to put your hose on blindly.
I've been trying to collect the necessary pieces in order to make the slave bleeder a remotely-accessible part. I know I've seen kits like this for Porsches, but finding the right fitting sizes has so far been difficult for our cars.
I may end up having to order a slave cylinder just to have something to play with out of the car.
I didn't physically remove the clutch slave bleed valve and measure it. I saw that several people used the SB7100 Speed Bleeder as a replacement fitting. According to Speed Bleeder's website, the SB7100 is M7 X 1.0 .
Do you have to remove the diffuser and the pan or just the pan to access clutch bleed? May sound like a dumb/lazy question but my aftermarket exhaust seems to make it incredibly difficult to remove the diffuser. Removed several month ago when replacing anti sway bar bushings and it was a huge pain.
If you do it from the top I suggest removing the "chimney" vent pipe from the top of the exhaust manifold- its very easy to crush this when accessing the slave cylinder bleeder. Even then, if you end up leaking fluid onto the undertray you are going to have to take it off to clean everything up.
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