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post #41 of 65 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 07:22 AM
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Another update: I was sent a letter out of the blue by Stratton Motor Company in the UK, saying they had received a part order in my name from British Racing Group, and wondering if I still wanted it. They hadn't been paid. I paid them directly via PayPal (having gotten a refund via PayPal for BRG), and they shipped *something* out, hopefully my part. I believe this is their site: https://www.strattonmotorcompany.com/

They said others weren't so lucky in getting refunds from BRG, as apparently they just went out of business.
Under certain circumstances, receiving funds through the mail for a promised item which is not later (or ever) shipped or otherwise furnished constitutes mail fraud in the United States.
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post #42 of 65 (permalink) Old 05-28-2019, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Under certain circumstances, receiving funds through the mail for a promised item which is not later (or ever) shipped or otherwise furnished constitutes mail fraud in the United States.
My suspicion is it'd be impossible to get money out of a company that's going belly up, even if I could get a judge in small claims court to rule on it. Plus it sounds like mail fraud would require the state to prosecute, not just a civil suit.
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post #43 of 65 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 11:52 AM
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Mail fraud is a federal crime, and it would be prosecuted by a member of the United States Attorney's Office. If convicted, the defendant pays up and, potentially, goes to federal prison. There really is no option for the company if a conviction is handed down.
Good luck!
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post #44 of 65 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 11:55 AM
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Be VERY careful how the above information is used. Consult an attorney wherever you reside BEFORE mentioning it to the vendor.
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post #45 of 65 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 05:55 PM
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Well the contact cleaner didn't fix my problem (like I was warned). When I removed the latch (again) I inspected it closely and found a crack in the plastic case. I think that this crack is the failure point for my latch. There was just enough movement that the micro switch would not make contact until I squeezed the mechanism together (closing the gap on the crack). I was ready to rip into it when I received an email from Don at Lotuspartsonline saying they had latches in stock. I called him. $400 and 3 days later I got the new latch. Haven't had time to put it in yet but looks like the right part. I think the latches are finally becoming available.
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post #46 of 65 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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I just sent my payment to Robert at Stratton Motor Company today. $250 USD shipped from Long Stratton, UK.

Given the cost of these latches it might be worth trying to figure out if they can be repaired or retrofitted with a more reliable microswitch, perhaps with the aid of CAD and 3D printers, both of which I have available to me.

When I remove my latch I'll update the thread about what likely caused my failure.
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post #47 of 65 (permalink) Old 05-31-2019, 06:36 AM
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This is exactly the same crack in my latch. It isnít a micro switch quality issue and I donít expect a 3D printed part would hold up better than the molded part. The plastic could be replaced with a machined aluminum or Delrin part but the cost would be prohibitive. I think the best option is buying new, second best is cutting into the cover to bend the switch lever, and worst option is to completely disconnect the switch so the car thinks the door is always closed.

Gator reported this week that parts are supposed to be on the way to the US.
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post #48 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 12:50 PM
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This problem just happened to me last weekend, and I have a road-trip planned to Lime Rock this weekend. I guess it's time to order a latch. I have a 2012, any advice on how to tell if I have the new or old style latches? Does anyone know if it is possible to upgrade the early Evoras to the newer (3rd gen, without the door pins) style latches that came out in 2014 I think?
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post #49 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 02:12 PM
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Since you have a 2012, you should have the Inteva latches. They do not have the door pins.

See this for parts diagram:
https://www.lotuspartsonline.com/a/L...ORA_1017a.html

I do not recall another version that came out in 2014. But, of course I could be wrong. However, according to the product details (and as an example), the LH Inteva latch -No Button (Part Number: A132B4245K) fits:

Lotus Evora: 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
Lotus Evora S: 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020

If your latch failed in the closed position, you are lucky. You should be able to wait to make your repair as the car will think the door is closed and it will not drain your battery.
If it failed in the open position, it will think the door is ajar and keep your interior lights and dash lights on. That will drain your battery

Oh, and lucky for you, the Inteva latches are cheaper.... $150.11
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post #50 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 02:50 PM
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If your door has the pins, you get the early.. if it doesn't, you get the later inteva. (I can't remember if the intevas started beginning of MY2012 or if it was a running change?)

I think changing from the early style to the inteva would require changing the striker in the door jamb, wouldn't it? Trying to get that thing swapped without losing the striker retention nutplates inside the body would probably be a losing proposition.. I don't think even removing the back clam gets you access.

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post #51 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 03:53 PM
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If your door has the pins, you get the early.. if it doesn't, you get the later inteva. (I can't remember if the intevas started beginning of MY2012 or if it was a running change?)

I think changing from the early style to the inteva would require changing the striker in the door jamb, wouldn't it? Trying to get that thing swapped without losing the striker retention nutplates inside the body would probably be a losing proposition.. I don't think even removing the back clam gets you access.
I think it was a running change, as I've seen some posts here with early MY12s having door pins. Either way, that's definitely how you identify which one OP should get.

But I also saw a post that someone had a dealer swap out the original latches for an Inteva under warranty, so I think it is possible, but would require acquiring a few different parts to make the swap successful. And maybe some mounting changes inside the door shell itself?

The striker plates should be accessible through the rear fuse panel cover on the LHS, and by removing the subwoofer and b-pillar/rear seat paneling on the RHS.
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post #52 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 05:05 PM
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Per the diagrams, the mounting on the door shell isn't the same, so I'm not sure if the diagram is wrong (or just updated), or if a dealer doing a swap would've swapped the entire door. There are different holes indicated for access to the lock mechanism.

I'd love to see the mechanisms side by side. I haven't found anyone with an Inteva spare with photos to try and compare.
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post #53 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 06:20 PM
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Hum, I definitely have a 2012, and I definitely have the door pins, so I guess it was a model year change. I had heard (from a dealer when I got the car) there was a change between the 2009 and 2011 model years as well - the earlier ones had problems with the latches jamming and the power door release not working.

Too bad its not a straight swap. What is the part I need to order for the older model? What's the best source? Maybe I'll get a new latch too and see if they interchange. I asked at the dealer once and they said "it's not that simple", but it wasn't made clear how not simple it was.

Mine failed with the door open, so the window is cracked and the light stays on. I'm more worried about the window being cracked, I think I can manage the battery for two days on the road and it's on a charger all the time in the garage anyway.

It can't drain the battery that fast can it? If it can, I guess I better pop the door apart tomorrow.
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post #54 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 07:47 PM
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old-style door latches:

LH: B132B4169J
RH: B132B4170J

You may have to take the old one apart and transfer the CDL door latch lever over to the new one.

They're notorious for being out of stock with Lotus, but I'd send Dino at Gator/ lotusparts.com an email to start.

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post #55 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 11:14 PM
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Maybe I'll get a new latch too and see if they interchange. I asked at the dealer once and they said "it's not that simple", but it wasn't made clear how not simple it was.
I believe you would need at least the majority of parts on this page in order to do the swap:

https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp...SMO=0&ST=&SC=0

Versus the parts you should already have:

https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp...SMO=0&ST=&SC=0

That includes new strikers, plates, rods, interior and exterior door release handles, cables, security shrouds, etc.

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post #56 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 03:03 AM
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Mine failed with the door open, so the window is cracked and the light stays on. I'm more worried about the window being cracked, I think I can manage the battery for two days on the road and it's on a charger all the time in the garage anyway.

It can't drain the battery that fast can it? If it can, I guess I better pop the door apart tomorrow.
I'm not sure how fast the battery may drain. Depends on several things, including the condition of your battery. However, until you get a new latch, you could temporarily disable the micro switch by unplugging it.

See this thread. It has good info from MGB, agentdr8 and flypie: https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f17...58/index2.html

Note to be be gentle closing the door on the seals since the window will no longer drop when you close the door. Also, "If your DRL are deactivated (like mine) then you will not get a warning that you have left your lights on (Done that a billion times). You will have to lock your car manually by holding up the handle when you shut the door."
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post #57 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 06:47 AM
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Worth a shot might be blasting proper dielectric lubricant spray into the latch mechanism generously if you haven't already.
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post #58 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 08:42 AM
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Wait a sec...aren't we currently in that thread? Lol

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post #59 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 09:11 AM
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I believe you would need at least the majority of parts on this page in order to do the swap:

https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp...SMO=0&ST=&SC=0

Versus the parts you should already have:

https://www.deroure.com/diagrams.asp...SMO=0&ST=&SC=0

That includes new strikers, plates, rods, interior and exterior door release handles, cables, security shrouds, etc.
Looking through the drawings it doesn't look like they are all that far off. I'm not sure what that security shroud is, but it seems to me in addition to the newer latch you might just needs parts 4, 5, 7, and maybe part 33 "Edge Protector"? I'm not sure what that's for.

It's unclear to me what the security shroud is or where it goes. Does the latch sit in it inside the door? If its just extra security and not structural or necessary for mounting it could be omitted.

Are there photos of the inside of a late 2012 door anywhere?

Is Bell & Colvill an ok place to order parts from? I'll try Gator and other recommendations as well.
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post #60 of 65 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 09:13 AM
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Oh, probably not important, but I haven't seen anyone describe this failure mode yet: My switch seems to still partially work. When I close the door the dash flickers showing the door closed, then it shows it open again.
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