BOE Torque 300 > more frequent stalling - Page 2 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #21 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-26-2017, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by NoFear99 View Post
OMG! You have the DMC header too ! $$$$$$$$$$$

Only the intercooler is missing and you have the complete BOE power receipe.

It look like you should be more toward or closer to 290WHP than 260WHP .

The dyno you used wasnt a mustang dyno either.

Your number seem a bit low considering an intercooler wont give you those 30 extra poney.
80k+ engine and 80 degree testing day on an accurate dyno. This is what I was told to expect, I know the product page says 290, not sure what thats about?

2007 Exige S with almost every track mod...
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post #22 of 35 (permalink) Old 04-26-2017, 07:31 PM
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Yes I have, I am traveling and don't have the dyno sheet with me, but I tested it on a Dynojet just last week for Nasa TT 260 WHP 256 SAE corrected. Torque is 156 lbs everywhere. FYI in this configuration at 2218 lbs I am in TT3 and the car is very competitive I think. At cota I am right at the front of the pack. At other tracks I don't have enough track time, but in the easy sections I am keeping up with the top runners.

Setup is exactly the BOE power recipe but stock intercooler still just with more ducting, for sure I need a better intercooler as I am at almost 200 degrees on the track intake temp.

Walbro 255 Fuel Pump in suge tank
BOE CAI
BOE 550 EV-14 Injectors
BOE HO 3" Pulley
DMC 4:1 Long Tube Header
BOE ST Muffler
BOE Torque 300 Tune to make it all work
Wow and you're running a 3.0 pulley. I'm guessing 10lbs vs 6.5lbs (stock). Definitely temps will be higher. You definitely need a new intercooler. I think you were asking about it in a separate thread which I responded. I thought you were on stock boost.

** save ~10 lbs gain 1 hp ** EQ: Y=(190*X) / (1984-X) where Y is (HP) and X is (lbs)

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WTC 2
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post #23 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 07:24 AM
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I know this is going to seem too easy but just ran into this issue a quick fix Might be to clean your throttlebody out around the butterfly you might find you have some gunk there it doesn't take much.
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post #24 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-10-2017, 07:28 AM
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Mine was so dirty it was also causing a lean hick-up on the shift at full throttle, cleaned it up and all is good it's amazing how frustrating the little things you don't think about can be took me 2 weeks of messing with a tune and an aftermarket data logger to track it down to something that simple
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post #25 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 12:35 PM
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I know this is an somewhat old thread but anyone come up with a solution? I have the BOE Torque 300 tune and it stalls a few times every time I drive it and it's getting to a point where I don't want to even drive the car anymore. I've changed o2 sensor, checked the pvc lines, new o2 sensors pre and post cat, cleaned and changed maf, going to try cleaning the throttle body to see if that helps.

Mods:
-Boe Torque 300 Tune
-3.0 pulley and new belts
-DMC Headers
-Cat Delete Pipe
-Larani Exhaust
-ITG short intake 3" Maf
-Pro Alloy Intercooler
-BOE 550cc injectors
-Walbro Fuel Pump

Last edited by sirnonz; 02-01-2018 at 03:38 PM.
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post #26 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 12:52 PM
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Change your air filter? Mine seems to get clogged up about every 7-10k miles and start intermittently stalling at stoplights. A new air filter fixes it.

This is a stock M45 supercharger with stock tune, DMC headers, racing cat, and a Larini 8".

2011 Lotus Elise SC Final Edition 15 of 15 - Ardent Red
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post #27 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 01:02 PM
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anyone having problems contacting Phil lately? He's always responded right away.

** save ~10 lbs gain 1 hp ** EQ: Y=(190*X) / (1984-X) where Y is (HP) and X is (lbs)

'07 Lotus Exige S310


WTC 2
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post #28 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by sirnonz View Post
I know this is an somewhat old thread but anyone come up with a solution?
There's no silver bullet. Look for patterns with the stalling. Does it occur only at idle? Only after the engine is warmed up? Only at stop signs? Ever stall in cold weather? Does it stall even if you shift into neutral while coasting?

Years ago, my Torque 300 would occasionally stall only when:
  • the engine was up to temp
  • ambient temps were 70s or warmer
  • at stop signs.

The grumbly idle never happened in cool weather, so heat soak sure seemed to be the culprit. On a whim, I bought an intercooler heat shield with gold tape and the problem has never returned (this was in 2015). There's another IAC sensor just downstream of the intercooler which can get dirty, or in my case just plain hot!
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post #29 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by LionZoo View Post
Change your air filter? Mine seems to get clogged up about every 7-10k miles and start intermittently stalling at stoplights. A new air filter fixes it.

This is a stock M45 supercharger with stock tune, DMC headers, racing cat, and a Larini 8".
It has the ITG Cold air box so It might get dirty quicker than normal, I'll check that!

Quote:
Originally Posted by shay2nak View Post
anyone having problems contacting Phil lately? He's always responded right away.
He usually is really responsive, I'm chalking it up as he's busy and don't want to bother him too much if I don't have to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by +TSRAGR View Post
There's no silver bullet. Look for patterns with the stalling. Does it occur only at idle? Only after the engine is warmed up? Only at stop signs? Ever stall in cold weather? Does it stall even if you shift into neutral while coasting?

Years ago, my Torque 300 would occasionally stall only when:
  • the engine was up to temp
  • ambient temps were 70s or warmer
  • at stop signs.

The grumbly idle never happened in cool weather, so heat soak sure seemed to be the culprit. On a whim, I bought an intercooler heat shield with gold tape and the problem has never returned (this was in 2015). There's another IAC sensor just downstream of the intercooler which can get dirty, or in my case just plain hot!
It stalls usually only when the car is warmed up, so it could be a heat soak issue. But it pretty much stalls whenever it wants to, in gear or not, idling, slowing down, reversing and so on. I might have to have him force idle to 1200rpm so I can enjoy the car again.
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post #30 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 10:04 PM
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stalling for me too

Thread is about a year old but I hadn't seen it before so adding my $0.02.
I've got a stock S260. I bought the BOE tune last summer. While its not hugely faster than stock, the engine map is better in general (more torque down low and general overall better smoothness). EXCEPT .. I've got the dreaded stalling issue.

I emailed BOE and some other guys there have responded but not Phil directly (several times, trying again). I understand these things are difficult but the fact that a lot of us are having this issue (seems to me more than 1/10) that they should re-tune.

I am in CA and we have pretty crappy gas here but looking at the thread it doesn't seem to be related to that. Now my car has a lot of track miles but I maintain it as well. I gather there is a way to turn a set screw on the throttle body but I'm a bit loathe to do that (and frankly, I'm not sure exactly where that is).

Where I notice it:

- engine warmed up - yes. Heat soak, I seriously doubt it
- warm temps outside, cool temps outside - doesn't seem to matter
- when it occurs:
very hard to pin down but it happened to me 4x today.
1. Coasting between gears (yes, on the street, I do coast)
2. coming up to a stop light (again, coasting)

Sometimes I can 'catch it' by watching the tach and if it starts to waiver when I'm off throttle, I can hit the throttle and it will stay above.

My car has been fine for many years with no idle problem with the stock ECU map. In the past, I cleaned the MAF sensor - I haven't tried that recently. Also haven't checked the air filter recently.

But isn't there something more fundamental here? I mean why would it be fine with normal drivability and only sometimes this happens (and of course when you least expect it) and it never happened before (I've owned my. car since new, its got about 38K miles on it).
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post #31 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-29-2019, 12:54 PM
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Replace your spark plugs. That helped my car run better. You're making more power and at 38k. I'm sure you're using the stock sparks still. But don't get the same ones. NGK I have is one step colder at 260 whp. Model # BKR7EIX-11

** save ~10 lbs gain 1 hp ** EQ: Y=(190*X) / (1984-X) where Y is (HP) and X is (lbs)

'07 Lotus Exige S310


WTC 2

Last edited by shay2nak; 01-29-2019 at 01:04 PM.
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post #32 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srwhitman View Post
Thread is about a year old but I hadn't seen it before so adding my $0.02.
I've got a stock S260. I bought the BOE tune last summer. While its not hugely faster than stock, the engine map is better in general (more torque down low and general overall better smoothness). EXCEPT .. I've got the dreaded stalling issue.
I have the same issue and it is very annoying. Makes driving on the street really unpleasant since you never know when you'll have frantically restart the car due to it stalling at random times.

I installed this tune with a new air filter and the same plugs as mentioned above. TB was cleaned at that time also. My battery was old (Deka ETX20L) and I thought that my be causing the issues. Unfortunately I replaced it with no change to the idle issue. I also thought that maybe it had something to do with the small battery or the fact that I was using a 3.0" pulley, but it sounds like you have both the stock battery and pulley size.

I may try to replace the COP's and clean the maf. I basically have the BOE power recipe minus the full ITG filter setup. If there was some hardware change that would eliminate the stalling I would jump on it instantly.
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post #33 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-03-2019, 04:31 PM
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Also one other thing I try and check is the DBW throttle body screw mentioned in this thread:

https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f10...-issue-106883/
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post #34 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-21-2019, 09:21 PM
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Spoke to Phil - he suggests that its not related to any of the above issues people have been mentioning as they don't change the idle in their tune. Seems that the Lotus ECU is rather finicky. He suggested to replace O2 sensor and clean MAF sensor. Also replaced the air filter. Jon at Trackspec did that and just got the car back. Its night and day difference. Admittedly, only 2 days of commuting but it was much better. No wandering idle. It did stall once today so its still possible that the MAF sensor needs replacing or an update to the tune (which Phil provided but frankly I don't want to go with that). I think since they didn't touch the idle, I shouldn't muck with the tune. I think 1 stall in two days is not terrible.
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post #35 of 35 (permalink) Old 03-31-2019, 12:16 PM
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Seems like throwing parts at the problem helps but does not totally solve the issue.

This seems like a problem with the ecu (both oem and aftermarket tunes) and the design of the Lotus supercharger system. The volume behind the throttle body is pretty big considering it consists of a supercharger, intercooler, several manifolds and lots of tubing. The length from throttle body to the intake valve is also quite long. I imagine there is a enough of delay in engine response due to the length/volume that when closing the TB to get to an idle speed that the ecu can sometimes overshoot and cause a stall. A decent solution would be to close the throttle slower to prevent a stall even it it means the idle stays higher for a bit longer.

I think this is why the idle screw adjustment mentioned in the other thread somewhat works. The 1st stop is where the blade goes in off throttle then it closes further to reach the target idle speed.

Would be nice if @turbophil could chime in. If he has a solution for the BOE tunes then that is certainly something I would like to purchase.
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