The Lotus Cars Community banner
  • Hi there! Why not register as a user to enjoy all of the benefits of the site? You may register here. When you register, please pick a username that is non-commercial. If you use a name that appears on any search engine commercially, you must pick another name, whether it applies to you or not. Commercial usernames are for supporting vendor use only. If you want to become a supporting vendor and grow your business, please follow this link. Thanks!

BOE TOWING BARS- VERY limited Supply

69K views 183 replies 64 participants last post by  RoHo 
#1 · (Edited)
BOE TOWING BARS

OK, this is it... I have updated the webstore for our tow bars... They are super slick and strong tow bars for towing your your small trailer on long trips or just to the track.

We typically tow a 4'x4' trailer (Purchased from harbor freight) to track events. The trailer can be purchased for about 150 bucks and it ideal for carrying a 10x10 shelter, chairs, and cooler...

All the bars are powder coated for a long lasting finish. The black will go perfect with anything. This silver very closely resembles a JetHot coating.

Orders car be placed here BOEFabrication.com | Beyond Original Equipment. You can specify color, when ordering. These take a fair amount of time to make, so we only made a very limited supply. I'm not sure when we'll be making another batch so come get them while they're hot:D

Let me know if you have any questions or comments...

Have a great one,

Phil





 
See less See more
3
#4 ·
I hate to say anything for certain without trying it first myself, which I haven't in this case... That said, I would say that I don't see why not. It's attached with Grade 8 equivalent M10 bolts in the rear and similar M8s up front... I'd presume the hitch would be fine with that size trailer as long as you drive reasonably... If you do that, you can probably get away with quite a lot...

I'm sure you know the deal though, "enter at your own risk"...

Best,

Phil
 
#6 ·
Having ordered one, I intend to be exceedingly cautious with what I tow... Besides the question of the bolts breaking, there is the issue of wearing out or bending the attach points on the vehicle to worry about. Remember just cause it doesn't fall off the first time doesn't mean some part of it isn't going to wear out after 5, 10 or 20 times and, there's the question of wear and tear on clutch, transmission, etc. 400-500 lbs is 25% the weight of the vehicle... (before passengers). That would make me nervous, but I'm not an expert...
 
#8 ·
and, there's the question of wear and tear on clutch, transmission, etc. 400-500 lbs is 25% the weight of the vehicle... (before passengers).
I'd worry less about the drivetrain if driven cautiously. Keep in mind that the Celica curb weight was 2425; add two adults, two big kids and a full tank of fuel and you're above 3100. That's normal duty for the 2ZZ.
 
#7 ·
Well, I just ordered one. I have access to both the small and the large harbor freight trailer (my dad had them all made up before he finally bought a giant enclosed trailer to tow to events). I'll install it and see what I think, and maybe I'll just limit myself to towing the small trailer with just a set of drys to known dry events and tow on the car trailer to possible wet events or further away events. I need to get a better tow strap solution for the elise. These wheel straps that I have to re-rig up the ratchets to every time are crappy - takes me 20 minutes to take the car on or off the trailer.
 
#9 ·
Would it be possible to see the install instructions, so i can see what needs to be drilled.
 
#13 ·
I don't have them on the office computer here, but I'll try to explain...

There is one 1/2" hole to be drilled right next to either diffuser mounting bolt hole. If you look at the picture of the underside of the car posted above, you can see that the tow bar mounts are right next to those two m8 bolts that support the diffuser... I call that the rear cross member... We made a special "nutty bar" that locates in the cross member that the main M10 mounting bolts fix to. The "nutty bar" stays fixed in the cross member even when the tow bar is not on the car... The front two mounting bolts use factory bolt holes, so no drilling or modifcation is required there...

The kit installation is really very easy. There's nothing hard about it. It's one of those deals where you want to "measure twice, drill once";) That said, the tow bar actually acts as a guide for the drill bit, so you don't even have to be too paranoid about measuring:D

Strength: It is my opinion that the setup is more than strong enough for the application. The bar is literaly strong enough to be used as a jack point. I've jumped up and down on it and ran the suspension through it's paces too;) Tongue weight management is important just because of the car, not so much the hitch. I typically keep tongue weight around 50lbs or so, which is plenty for the trailer I haul and I typically tow at 75mph or so. No problems after a year's worth of use. Just like any trailer towing situation, you've got to use some commen sense. No railroad track or hill jumping while towing-eek-...and the heavier you load things down, the more stopping room and the slower you should go-- I figure that's a given though:eek:

Hope that helps...

Thanks for the orders so far. I'll be shipping on Monday...

Best,

Phil
 
#14 ·
yes... See my last...

Thanks,

Phil
 
#17 ·
You bet... Just depends on the trailer... Duct tape has a million uses, remember:D
 
#18 ·
Thanks Phil, I just ordered the silver version. Looking forward to installing it. This will make this season much more pleasant.

Also glad to know that you have traveled at good speed with the trailer. Has there been any hint of bearing issues on the trailer?
 
#20 ·
Hey All- So there's only two left- Both are silver... You guys are missing out on the silver. It's the best color, IMO:cool:

For those who have ordered, you should be receiving an email later today with shipping info. Here's a picture of what you're looking for from the Fedex Guy...:nanner:

Best,

Phil
 

Attachments

#21 ·
::sigh:: I will probably be set on FIRE for this... But someone needs to ask. Cuz hey, you never know... :D

In an emergency, could/would you tow a 650-pound jet ski with this with a 65-pound tongue weight? Curious on your thoughts.

NOT launch in any water, just transport from one place to another on the open highway at low speed. Wouldn't get my Elise anywhere near a ramp with this.

::dons Nomex:: -poke-
 
#22 ·
I don't see why not, as long as you're not acting like an idiot while towing it:D Another one of those things where I say proceed at your own risk;)

This is funny.

So I built this with the idea of towing tires and tent to the track:shift:. So far I've heard everything from towing a thistle type sail boat, a trailer built for bicycles, and now a jet skirotfl Just goes to show that I don't know the market very well, huh:eek: The other two got theirs--- the question is will you get yours:D

Only one left... :clap:


Best,

Phil
 
#23 ·
Hahahah Phil...

When you first introduced this idea a while back it was the first thing on my mind... But I didn't dare even ask. =p

Good to know the option is there should this amusing scenario ever become a reality. ;) :up:
 
#24 ·
Phil, I got those electric brakes wired in the Elise today and you do not even notice the Auto Europe trailer is even behind me. ;).
 
#26 ·
Just got the hitch in the mail today. Wow, the thing is way beefier than I thought it was from the pics in the thread. Yeah, this thing should be just fine with the bigger trailer. The mounting mechanism is pretty trick too. Next week I'll have the time to hook it up and get an electrical hookup made (good idea to tow legally. ;-) ) Looking forward to giving it a go!
 
#35 ·
The hitch arrived yesterday. Looks great and the instructions seem clear. I hope to get in on this week.

Half the trailer also arrived yesterday also. A lot of parts but no frame. Hopefully it is in another box that comes next week.
Thanks Guys,

I'm glad you like them. Be sure to follow the instructions closely. If you have any problems, please don't hesitate to email me at

phil at boefabrication dot com ....

Best,

Phil
 
#28 ·
The hitch arrived yesterday. Looks great and the instructions seem clear. I hope to get in on this week.

Half the trailer also arrived yesterday also. A lot of parts but no frame. Hopefully it is in another box that comes next week.
 
#29 ·
Minor issue with supplied bolts

I just started to do the install and got the diffuser off and then got to the part where I replace the factory bolts for the under pan with your bolts and it seems that I have a bit of a problem. It appears that one of two things is true. Either the post into which the bolt screws is rusted inside, or it is not threaded all the way up. The former seems at least as likely as the later given the orange rust on the tip of the factory bolt. (I believe it is the lift point post from what I can see peering behind the under pan).

The result in either case is that I can't drive the bolt home, and the threads at the tip of the bolt are getting mushed. (see pics below)

In order to complete the rest of the install I'm going to add a bunch of washers between the bolt head and the tow bar to make up the difference, but I suspect in the long run I need to come up with a bolt somewhat closer in size to the original. What I'm interested in is did you add length to the bolt only because of the added thickness of the tow bar? Or was it there any other need for added length?

 
#30 ·
Well that's odd. I've install 3 of them and not ran into this... What year is your car?

Perhaps Lotus switched gears at some point and limited the depth of those two holes that support the undertray for no good reason??? I can't imagine Lotus doing something like that.LOL

Just to be certain, you're speaking of the two bolts on either side of the car near the NACA ducts correct?

Shoot me a PM/email and I'll zip out some new and shorter bolts if you like.

Best,

Phil
 
#34 ·
It's a 2005 elise.... Given what you say I think the most likely culprit is rust. We do get some of that up here in New England :)

The bolts I am referring to are the bolts that attach the forward most portion of the tow bar. I wouldn't know a NACA Duck if i it quacked at me :).

Though I don't drive it in the winter, I can't be 100% sure that the previous owner never did.

Thanks for the offer of shorter bolts, I'll let you know if I can't something myself it's still early march so no rush yet.... I can see they are 10.9 grade are they standard thread pitch?
 
#31 ·
Is that rusty bolt broken off?? It looks like it could have broken a while ago...which would also explain why the new bolt won't go all the way in.
 
#32 ·
No it's not. Both bolts are like that and the right side shows slightly less rust (the one above is from the left). Besides, if it were broken off it would be a hard stop and wouldn't involve pressing down the threads.
 
#33 ·
The "nutty" bar.

So, having decided to punt the first problem with washers for the moment, I've made it far enough to find that I have another problem. I got the holes drilled fine. I actually didn't use the bar as a guide, but the bolts fit just fine through the bar into the holes I drilled with no problem.

Then came the nutty bar. Really quite a good name for it because it's driving me nutty :crazyeyes

I got it in, fiddled it around and after about 10min got the first bolt to catch it. Fiddly, but doable. Then came the second bolt.... fiddle fiddle... 10 min... fiddle fiddle 20 min... Clearly I wasn't getting anywhere so I decided that I needed some control over the nutty bar. I drilled a 5/16 hole in the cross member, and a tiny hole in the nutty bar (very difficult because getting down force on the nutty bar with my 'long thin object' so I could drill up into the nutty bar was nigh unto impossible, but only nigh unto impossible rather than actually impossible). After that I passed a bent paperclip up into it and resumed fiddling, now with the ability to move the nutty bar around inside the cross member.



fiddle fiddle 10 min... fiddle fiddle 20 min.... fiddle fiddle 30 min...

Still nothing. :wallbang:

So I then took the nutty bar out again and tried putting it on the tow bar without having it hidden from sight... and it turned out to be difficult! Possible, with friction if everything was just right... and perhaps just a little imperceptible flexing of the nutty bar...

So it seems that the nutty bar is at the utmost outer limits of it's tolerance relative to the tow bar. So while success without modification may still be a theoretical possibility, it seems to be highly improbable.

I'm not upset by the way... this is the first issue of a new product, and just like software (which is what I build for a living) the first release of anything is always gonna have bugs.

So now next weekend I'm gonna build myself an adjustable length nutty bar :)...

I'll post the solution to this problem for others in case they get stuck, and for consideration as an additional feature... I think given the blind nature of affixing the nutty bar, ensuring the loosest most perfectly centered fit is key. Two ways to do that... extremely tight tolerances in manufacturing, or make it adjustable.
 
#38 · (Edited)
If your nutty bar is to tight, and you can't get it bolted...

So now next weekend I'm gonna build myself an adjustable length nutty bar :)...

I'll post the solution to this problem for others in case they get stuck, and for consideration as an additional feature... I think given the blind nature of affixing the nutty bar, ensuring the loosest most perfectly centered fit is key. Two ways to do that... extremely tight tolerances in manufacturing, or make it adjustable.
After a bit of thought and planning and the obligatory run to Home Depot (and then the run back to return the item that someone had opened and returned with only half the parts... of course)... I set to work cracking the nutty bar :).

The only materials I needed were about 8" of 3/16" by 3/4" metal stock (Home Depot labels it weld metal), and a single baggie of #10 machine screws and nuts (the kind with the conical head and slot for flat head screw driver that are meant to be countersunk and sit flush)

Basically I did the following
  1. Drill 2 holes in the metal stock, just large enough for the machine screws, as close together as possible
  2. Dremmel the metal between the holes until the machine screws slid back and forth in the resulting slot
  3. Repeat to make another slot 2 inches further into the metal stock
  4. Clamp the stock to the nutty bar with vice grips
  5. Drill 2 holes through the stock and nutty bar.
  6. Counter sink the hole on the downward face of the nutty bar
  7. Insert the machine screws and nut the metal stock to the nutty bar
  8. Drill a hole in the nutty bar at the middle of each slot
  9. Unbolt the stock and countersink those holes, also on the downward side of the nutty bar
  10. Make sure everything bolts together nicely
  11. Take all the bolts out, remove a 1/2 inch section of the nutty bar (with hack saw)
  12. Bolt the nutty bar back together, the slots loose, the solid holes tight
  13. Loosely bolt the nutty bar to the tow bar (not on the vehicle yet)
  14. Once I had a fit that allowed the M10 bolts to rattle slightly I tightened all machine screws good and tight
  15. Dremmel the ends of the machine screws off flush with the nuts
  16. Make a vertical cut partway into the nut and the machine screw to inhibit unscrewing and generally mess with the thread
  17. Resume the BOE installation instructions with the adjusted nutty bar!

Notes:

Step 6 - This is important because you don't want the bolt heads holding the nutty bar up away from the inside of the crossbar. That would cause the bar to bend when you torqe it down, and probably interfere with installing the rivets that hold the nutty bar in place permanently.

Step 7 - Nut it together fairly tight, so that nothing moves and the holes bot line up in the slots when you are done with step 8

Step 9 - Important for same reason as Step 6

Step 11 - Half inch is plenty generous. No need to take more for sure, could get away with less, exact amount removed is not critical.

Step 13 - This is the whole point of this process. Here is where we take a nutty bar that was tight fitting and make it loose fitting by allowing the machine screws to slide freely in the slots we drilled.

Step 14 - Once we have a fit we don't want to loose it, crank em down (but don't break em!)

Step 15. This is important! I used 5/8" long machine screws and without this the nutty bar wouldn't make it past the A-arm mount! 1/2" screws might make it, but I know that cutting them off does work :)

Step 16 - Lotuses create a lot of vibration. I didn't want the nuts to work loose and have nuts, and the metal stock bouncing around in there. Not 100% sure what I did was fool proof, but something should be done to prevent the nuts coming off. If I still had my welder, a tiny quick zap would have been ideal.

Here are the pics:


And here's the best one of all... once the nutty bar was adjusted, I got the bolts threaded in less than 2 min :clap:


As a side note, I was not suprised to discover that the tow bar is incompatble with the rear tow loop from Sector 111... Note how the hole for mounting the tow bar is covered, so these two items have to be swapped at the track if you want to use both.
 
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Top