BOE TOWING BARS- VERY limited Supply - Page 2 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #21 of 184 (permalink) Old 02-24-2009, 10:49 AM
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::sigh:: I will probably be set on FIRE for this... But someone needs to ask. Cuz hey, you never know...

In an emergency, could/would you tow a 650-pound jet ski with this with a 65-pound tongue weight? Curious on your thoughts.

NOT launch in any water, just transport from one place to another on the open highway at low speed. Wouldn't get my Elise anywhere near a ramp with this.

::dons Nomex::

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post #22 of 184 (permalink) Old 02-24-2009, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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I don't see why not, as long as you're not acting like an idiot while towing it Another one of those things where I say proceed at your own risk

This is funny.

So I built this with the idea of towing tires and tent to the track. So far I've heard everything from towing a thistle type sail boat, a trailer built for bicycles, and now a jet ski Just goes to show that I don't know the market very well, huh The other two got theirs--- the question is will you get yours

Only one left...


Best,

Phil


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2011 Pearl White Evora, BOE Skunk Works 6 SPD 435WHP || 2014 Black Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP|| 2011 White Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP || 2006 CO Elise, Rev400, Steet Car

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post #23 of 184 (permalink) Old 02-24-2009, 11:44 AM
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Hahahah Phil...

When you first introduced this idea a while back it was the first thing on my mind... But I didn't dare even ask. =p

Good to know the option is there should this amusing scenario ever become a reality.

Jose R. - Miami FL -Sell me your AW Elise!
1992 Lexus SC300 turbo 5MT Stark White ~440hp www.cleansc.net
2009 VW GTI 2.0T 6MT Candy White Stormtrooper - APR Stage 1 Tune
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post #24 of 184 (permalink) Old 02-24-2009, 04:18 PM
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Phil, I got those electric brakes wired in the Elise today and you do not even notice the Auto Europe trailer is even behind me. .

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post #25 of 184 (permalink) Old 02-24-2009, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codingparadox View Post
Any idea if this will work okay with the larger 8 foot harbor freight trailer? (Probably 400-500 pounds loaded)
You're a brave soul. After my HF nightmare and my trailer failure from its cheap steel, I won't ever touch any of their products ever again.

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post #26 of 184 (permalink) Old 02-27-2009, 04:29 PM
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Just got the hitch in the mail today. Wow, the thing is way beefier than I thought it was from the pics in the thread. Yeah, this thing should be just fine with the bigger trailer. The mounting mechanism is pretty trick too. Next week I'll have the time to hook it up and get an electrical hookup made (good idea to tow legally. ;-) ) Looking forward to giving it a go!

David de Regt - Bellevue, WA
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post #27 of 184 (permalink) Old 02-27-2009, 07:11 PM
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whats tongue weight? weight on the foward or rear? one of the two i'm guessing

steel grey 04' neon srt4 low boost 360hp 400ft lbs.... here for the love of the Elise, Exige and gaining the knowledge before I can get my own...


my car.. https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f152...ny-pics-62883/

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post #28 of 184 (permalink) Old 02-28-2009, 08:18 PM
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The hitch arrived yesterday. Looks great and the instructions seem clear. I hope to get in on this week.

Half the trailer also arrived yesterday also. A lot of parts but no frame. Hopefully it is in another box that comes next week.

Howard
2005 Elise AP LSS hardtop
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post #29 of 184 (permalink) Old 03-01-2009, 12:38 PM
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Minor issue with supplied bolts

I just started to do the install and got the diffuser off and then got to the part where I replace the factory bolts for the under pan with your bolts and it seems that I have a bit of a problem. It appears that one of two things is true. Either the post into which the bolt screws is rusted inside, or it is not threaded all the way up. The former seems at least as likely as the later given the orange rust on the tip of the factory bolt. (I believe it is the lift point post from what I can see peering behind the under pan).

The result in either case is that I can't drive the bolt home, and the threads at the tip of the bolt are getting mushed. (see pics below)

In order to complete the rest of the install I'm going to add a bunch of washers between the bolt head and the tow bar to make up the difference, but I suspect in the long run I need to come up with a bolt somewhat closer in size to the original. What I'm interested in is did you add length to the bolt only because of the added thickness of the tow bar? Or was it there any other need for added length?

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post #30 of 184 (permalink) Old 03-01-2009, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Well that's odd. I've install 3 of them and not ran into this... What year is your car?

Perhaps Lotus switched gears at some point and limited the depth of those two holes that support the undertray for no good reason??? I can't imagine Lotus doing something like that.LOL

Just to be certain, you're speaking of the two bolts on either side of the car near the NACA ducts correct?

Shoot me a PM/email and I'll zip out some new and shorter bolts if you like.

Best,

Phil


Phil: NASA 2012 and 2014 TT1 Central Champion, 2005 GG Elige, Rev400, 485+whp REV X

2011 Pearl White Evora, BOE Skunk Works 6 SPD 435WHP || 2014 Black Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP|| 2011 White Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP || 2006 CO Elise, Rev400, Steet Car

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post #31 of 184 (permalink) Old 03-01-2009, 01:12 PM
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Is that rusty bolt broken off?? It looks like it could have broken a while ago...which would also explain why the new bolt won't go all the way in.

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post #32 of 184 (permalink) Old 03-01-2009, 03:54 PM
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Is that rusty bolt broken off?? It looks like it could have broken a while ago...which would also explain why the new bolt won't go all the way in.
No it's not. Both bolts are like that and the right side shows slightly less rust (the one above is from the left). Besides, if it were broken off it would be a hard stop and wouldn't involve pressing down the threads.
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post #33 of 184 (permalink) Old 03-01-2009, 04:28 PM
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The "nutty" bar.

So, having decided to punt the first problem with washers for the moment, I've made it far enough to find that I have another problem. I got the holes drilled fine. I actually didn't use the bar as a guide, but the bolts fit just fine through the bar into the holes I drilled with no problem.

Then came the nutty bar. Really quite a good name for it because it's driving me nutty

I got it in, fiddled it around and after about 10min got the first bolt to catch it. Fiddly, but doable. Then came the second bolt.... fiddle fiddle... 10 min... fiddle fiddle 20 min... Clearly I wasn't getting anywhere so I decided that I needed some control over the nutty bar. I drilled a 5/16 hole in the cross member, and a tiny hole in the nutty bar (very difficult because getting down force on the nutty bar with my 'long thin object' so I could drill up into the nutty bar was nigh unto impossible, but only nigh unto impossible rather than actually impossible). After that I passed a bent paperclip up into it and resumed fiddling, now with the ability to move the nutty bar around inside the cross member.



fiddle fiddle 10 min... fiddle fiddle 20 min.... fiddle fiddle 30 min...

Still nothing.

So I then took the nutty bar out again and tried putting it on the tow bar without having it hidden from sight... and it turned out to be difficult! Possible, with friction if everything was just right... and perhaps just a little imperceptible flexing of the nutty bar...

So it seems that the nutty bar is at the utmost outer limits of it's tolerance relative to the tow bar. So while success without modification may still be a theoretical possibility, it seems to be highly improbable.

I'm not upset by the way... this is the first issue of a new product, and just like software (which is what I build for a living) the first release of anything is always gonna have bugs.

So now next weekend I'm gonna build myself an adjustable length nutty bar ...

I'll post the solution to this problem for others in case they get stuck, and for consideration as an additional feature... I think given the blind nature of affixing the nutty bar, ensuring the loosest most perfectly centered fit is key. Two ways to do that... extremely tight tolerances in manufacturing, or make it adjustable.
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post #34 of 184 (permalink) Old 03-01-2009, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbophil View Post
Well that's odd. I've install 3 of them and not ran into this... What year is your car?

Perhaps Lotus switched gears at some point and limited the depth of those two holes that support the undertray for no good reason??? I can't imagine Lotus doing something like that.LOL

Just to be certain, you're speaking of the two bolts on either side of the car near the NACA ducts correct?

Shoot me a PM/email and I'll zip out some new and shorter bolts if you like.

Best,

Phil

It's a 2005 elise.... Given what you say I think the most likely culprit is rust. We do get some of that up here in New England

The bolts I am referring to are the bolts that attach the forward most portion of the tow bar. I wouldn't know a NACA Duck if i it quacked at me .

Though I don't drive it in the winter, I can't be 100% sure that the previous owner never did.

Thanks for the offer of shorter bolts, I'll let you know if I can't something myself it's still early march so no rush yet.... I can see they are 10.9 grade are they standard thread pitch?
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post #35 of 184 (permalink) Old 03-02-2009, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codingparadox View Post
Just got the hitch in the mail today. Wow, the thing is way beefier than I thought it was from the pics in the thread. Yeah, this thing should be just fine with the bigger trailer. The mounting mechanism is pretty trick too. Next week I'll have the time to hook it up and get an electrical hookup made (good idea to tow legally. ;-) ) Looking forward to giving it a go!

Quote:
Originally Posted by hroundy View Post
The hitch arrived yesterday. Looks great and the instructions seem clear. I hope to get in on this week.

Half the trailer also arrived yesterday also. A lot of parts but no frame. Hopefully it is in another box that comes next week.
Thanks Guys,

I'm glad you like them. Be sure to follow the instructions closely. If you have any problems, please don't hesitate to email me at

phil at boefabrication dot com ....

Best,

Phil


Phil: NASA 2012 and 2014 TT1 Central Champion, 2005 GG Elige, Rev400, 485+whp REV X

2011 Pearl White Evora, BOE Skunk Works 6 SPD 435WHP || 2014 Black Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP|| 2011 White Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP || 2006 CO Elise, Rev400, Steet Car

____________________________________________

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BOE ClamHinge | BOE TVS SuperCharging, The Most Powerful Track-Worthy Forced Induction | EFI Engine Management | BOE The Essential Fuel Starve Solution| BOE Lotus Tow Package| BOE New-Tech Lotus Race Engines | The Right Oil Filter for Your Lotus | Custom Lotus ECU Tuning


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post #36 of 184 (permalink) Old 03-04-2009, 10:42 PM
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Got mine installed last night. Everything went in without a problem on my car. 2006 with sport/touring pack and LSD. Great kit! Now to buy a tow ball.

I had someone fab up a hitch harness, but it's hard to get it anywhere useful out of the trunk... How'd you run yours? Out the trunk opening or did you manage to fish it out the bottom somehow decent?

David de Regt - Bellevue, WA
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post #37 of 184 (permalink) Old 03-05-2009, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by codingparadox View Post
Got mine installed last night. Everything went in without a problem on my car. 2006 with sport/touring pack and LSD. Great kit! Now to buy a tow ball.

I had someone fab up a hitch harness, but it's hard to get it anywhere useful out of the trunk... How'd you run yours? Out the trunk opening or did you manage to fish it out the bottom somehow decent?
Take that hitch harness and put a hole in the bottom of the clam, finish it with a rubber gromit then it will be clean neat and tidy. There is a neat spot right between the lamps for the license plate, then when you are done you can keep it in the boot (trunk) out of sight.

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post #38 of 184 (permalink) Old 03-07-2009, 09:15 PM
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Thumbs up If your nutty bar is to tight, and you can't get it bolted...

Quote:
Originally Posted by fsparv View Post

So now next weekend I'm gonna build myself an adjustable length nutty bar ...

I'll post the solution to this problem for others in case they get stuck, and for consideration as an additional feature... I think given the blind nature of affixing the nutty bar, ensuring the loosest most perfectly centered fit is key. Two ways to do that... extremely tight tolerances in manufacturing, or make it adjustable.
After a bit of thought and planning and the obligatory run to Home Depot (and then the run back to return the item that someone had opened and returned with only half the parts... of course)... I set to work cracking the nutty bar .

The only materials I needed were about 8" of 3/16" by 3/4" metal stock (Home Depot labels it weld metal), and a single baggie of #10 machine screws and nuts (the kind with the conical head and slot for flat head screw driver that are meant to be countersunk and sit flush)

Basically I did the following
  1. Drill 2 holes in the metal stock, just large enough for the machine screws, as close together as possible
  2. Dremmel the metal between the holes until the machine screws slid back and forth in the resulting slot
  3. Repeat to make another slot 2 inches further into the metal stock
  4. Clamp the stock to the nutty bar with vice grips
  5. Drill 2 holes through the stock and nutty bar.
  6. Counter sink the hole on the downward face of the nutty bar
  7. Insert the machine screws and nut the metal stock to the nutty bar
  8. Drill a hole in the nutty bar at the middle of each slot
  9. Unbolt the stock and countersink those holes, also on the downward side of the nutty bar
  10. Make sure everything bolts together nicely
  11. Take all the bolts out, remove a 1/2 inch section of the nutty bar (with hack saw)
  12. Bolt the nutty bar back together, the slots loose, the solid holes tight
  13. Loosely bolt the nutty bar to the tow bar (not on the vehicle yet)
  14. Once I had a fit that allowed the M10 bolts to rattle slightly I tightened all machine screws good and tight
  15. Dremmel the ends of the machine screws off flush with the nuts
  16. Make a vertical cut partway into the nut and the machine screw to inhibit unscrewing and generally mess with the thread
  17. Resume the BOE installation instructions with the adjusted nutty bar!

Notes:

Step 6 - This is important because you don't want the bolt heads holding the nutty bar up away from the inside of the crossbar. That would cause the bar to bend when you torqe it down, and probably interfere with installing the rivets that hold the nutty bar in place permanently.

Step 7 - Nut it together fairly tight, so that nothing moves and the holes bot line up in the slots when you are done with step 8

Step 9 - Important for same reason as Step 6

Step 11 - Half inch is plenty generous. No need to take more for sure, could get away with less, exact amount removed is not critical.

Step 13 - This is the whole point of this process. Here is where we take a nutty bar that was tight fitting and make it loose fitting by allowing the machine screws to slide freely in the slots we drilled.

Step 14 - Once we have a fit we don't want to loose it, crank em down (but don't break em!)

Step 15. This is important! I used 5/8" long machine screws and without this the nutty bar wouldn't make it past the A-arm mount! 1/2" screws might make it, but I know that cutting them off does work

Step 16 - Lotuses create a lot of vibration. I didn't want the nuts to work loose and have nuts, and the metal stock bouncing around in there. Not 100% sure what I did was fool proof, but something should be done to prevent the nuts coming off. If I still had my welder, a tiny quick zap would have been ideal.

Here are the pics:


And here's the best one of all... once the nutty bar was adjusted, I got the bolts threaded in less than 2 min


As a side note, I was not suprised to discover that the tow bar is incompatble with the rear tow loop from Sector 111... Note how the hole for mounting the tow bar is covered, so these two items have to be swapped at the track if you want to use both.

Last edited by fsparv; 03-07-2009 at 10:42 PM. Reason: forgot the results!
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post #39 of 184 (permalink) Old 03-08-2009, 08:01 AM
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trailer choices

Harbor Freight offers a small trailer for $150 with 8" wheels that seems to be what Turbophil mentioned. They also offer a similar "heavy duty" version with 12" wheels. Would the larger wheels significantly reduce stress on the hitch mounting points going over bumps etc?
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post #40 of 184 (permalink) Old 03-08-2009, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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Greetings!

The larger wheels won't significantly impact the dynamics of the load on the car/hitch. They just allow for a tougher tire that's more suited for hwy speeds, etc...

I use the 8" tire/wheels as mentioned and irresponsibly pull at 80mph all the time despite the tire only being rated for 60 (if I remember right)... The load is so light (4 tires/wheels, 10x10 tent, couple chairs), that I'm not too worried about exceeding the speed rating, but that's just me... The 12" wheel/tire is a nicer unit with more speed and weight capacity, that's for sure...

I've received several reports from other users that install went just fine and was pretty painless. I'm glad fsparv devised a solution for the hurdle he ran into, as his install seems to be the exception more than the rule... It should be just an hour long project or so... may be two???

Cheers!

Phil


Phil: NASA 2012 and 2014 TT1 Central Champion, 2005 GG Elige, Rev400, 485+whp REV X

2011 Pearl White Evora, BOE Skunk Works 6 SPD 435WHP || 2014 Black Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP|| 2011 White Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP || 2006 CO Elise, Rev400, Steet Car

____________________________________________

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BOE ClamHinge | BOE TVS SuperCharging, The Most Powerful Track-Worthy Forced Induction | EFI Engine Management | BOE The Essential Fuel Starve Solution| BOE Lotus Tow Package| BOE New-Tech Lotus Race Engines | The Right Oil Filter for Your Lotus | Custom Lotus ECU Tuning


Pain makes man Think. Thinking makes man Wise. Wisdom makes tracking a Lotus Endurable
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