BOE TOWING BARS- VERY limited Supply - Page 6 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #101 of 184 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 04:36 PM
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Thank god I bought the last "used" one that was for sale on here a few months ago.


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post #102 of 184 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 05:11 PM
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I too would like one.

Phil - making any?

Anyone selling one? Hit me up. Color doesn't matter.
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post #103 of 184 (permalink) Old 12-27-2011, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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Honestly, we're just out of space for big fabbed parts like this. I takes a of room to swing tube around on the bender. We're building a new shop right now. The roof is officially on today I'd imagine, once the new space is up and running, we'll start back to making parts like this. It's a fun part and I realize there's a demand.

Thanks for the interest and support as always!!!

Phil


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2011 Pearl White Evora, BOE Skunk Works 6 SPD 435WHP || 2014 Black Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP|| 2011 White Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP || 2006 CO Elise, Rev400, Steet Car

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post #104 of 184 (permalink) Old 01-09-2012, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by fsparv View Post
For hooking up the lights on the trailer I built my own wiring system, which should at least reduce the current drawn to the trailer through the car's lighting system and (maybe) avoid messing with the alarm electronics. The only thing I draw off the car power is the running lights and a little current for switching the brake/tail light. The brake/tail lights probably draw the most current, but one could easily also add one more relay to my system to not draw power for the running lights directly from the car either, but to date I've had no alarm weirdness with the stock '05 alarm.

First I went to Autozone where I bought a little thing for converting separate brake/turn sig lights (on the elise) to unified brake/tail lights (on the trailer). I spent 2+ hours installing it, and trouble shooting it and eventually tried hooking leads directly to the battery... in an attempt to get something to light... As far as I can tell they sold me a little plastic brick with wires stuffed in the end. I've got zero evidence that any of the wires actually connect inside the molded plastic brick. Total Junk... Perhaps I'm just unlucky, but being rather annoyed with the whole thing, I decided to do it myself (eliminating the question of whether or not shrodinger's cat caught the mice before they ate all the wires inside the little black plastic box or not)

What I implemented was something that one of my mechanics suggested. He's a short wave radio and electronics geek on the side, and had the key idea about grounding through the opposite light bulb... It was his idea, so if anything goes wrong I blame him Try this at your own risk of course

Basically it works like this:
  1. I took a couple of relays from radio shack (I used the 30A automotive ones... total overkill but they had a depleted selection of relays),
  2. Spliced the one end of each the relay coils to the brake light wire on the elise
  3. Spliced the other end of each coil to one of the turn signals wires on the elise
  4. I wired the normally open side of the switch portion of the relay from the batery (with an inline fuse!) to the turn signal on the trailer
  5. All of the above was done putting the relays in a project box, and soldering the wires to the relays so that everything was protected from the soft top flopping around in my trunk.
  6. The running lights I just wired normally tapping off of the elise's running lights.

This works because when neither tail light nor brake are lit no current flows through the coil and the relay remains open because there is no voltage. When both tail light and turn signal are lit the relay also remains open because both ends of the coil are +12 volts and no current flows. If the brake is on one side of the coil is +12 volts and the other side is attached to the light bulb of the turn signal, which is attached to ground, so a small current flows through the coil, through the bulb and out to ground (the coil has significant resistance and won't let enough current through to light the turn signal). The same thing happens if the turn signal comes on when the brake is off only in reverse.

If you are braking and preparing to turn, then when your turn signal blinks on and off and your brake lights remain on. This means that the trailer lights are on when your turn signal is not blinking on and off when it is... So the trailer blinks in opposite phase with the brake light if you are braking and turning which looks even cooler anyway

Once I built it (about 2 hrs including trip to radio shack) I installed it in about 20 min (if you don't count time fiddling with one of the splice connectors which is unrelated).

Oh and I posted a pic of my car towing the trailer here... and yes before you ask, I did have a strap over the tires... I just forgot to take the picture before I took it off
I am trying to figure out how to do the wiring for my exige with the LED tail lights. Anyone have any luck and can offer some help??
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post #105 of 184 (permalink) Old 01-09-2012, 03:26 PM
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You quoted the more difficult method. Got to a local travel trailer business and get a box like the Modulite. I hitched mine directly to the battery and tapped the lights in the boot. The device has the relays which are driven by the light taps and provides power from the battery to the trailer.

Howard
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post #106 of 184 (permalink) Old 01-09-2012, 03:45 PM
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You just made my day!!!


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post #107 of 184 (permalink) Old 01-10-2012, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hroundy View Post
You quoted the more difficult method. Got to a local travel trailer business and get a box like the Modulite. I hitched mine directly to the battery and tapped the lights in the boot. The device has the relays which are driven by the light taps and provides power from the battery to the trailer.
If it works that's great. My solution was posted as a fall back. What you link is not the same little black box, so maybe the cat ate the mice and the wires are still in tact in this one .

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post #108 of 184 (permalink) Old 01-10-2012, 01:37 PM
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Oh and as a follow up,although I didn't mention it I found (later) that it's best to actually wire the ground wire on the trailer to the negative terminal, since the hitch provides a relatively unreliable electrical connection (based on observation, and total disappearance of much weirdness as soon as I ran the ground back to the battery).

Also, there may be a flaw in my design ... When the trailer is plugged in, it seems to create a (slow) drain on the battery, which is not a problem unless you plug the trailer in the night before.

This was determined by observation also, but given the slow leak, I'd suspect that it's something along the lines of current finding it's way through the relay coil and one or more of the lights in series. Alternately, it could be a partial short somewhere in the trailer.

(relays don't seem to trigger when I plug in, and lights don't light until invoked by the vehicle, but my tiny 7lb battery does drain if left overnight).

Lost the original diagram I made, been meaning to re-draw the diagram, continuity test and otherwise investigate, but haven't found the time since it's easily solved by not plugging in until I leave in the morning.

2005 Lotus Elise, Starlight Black # 111 SSM NER SCCA Solo - 1835lbs up to 1.65 Lat [email protected]~55mph (asphalt) 193whp 142wtq Normally Aspirated.

http://www.the111shift.com/p/the-build.html

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post #109 of 184 (permalink) Old 01-10-2012, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fsparv View Post
Oh and as a follow up,although I didn't mention it I found (later) that it's best to actually wire the ground wire on the trailer to the negative terminal, since the hitch provides a relatively unreliable electrical connection (based on observation, and total disappearance of much weirdness as soon as I ran the ground back to the battery).

Also, there may be a flaw in my design ... When the trailer is plugged in, it seems to create a (slow) drain on the battery, which is not a problem unless you plug the trailer in the night before.

This was determined by observation also, but given the slow leak, I'd suspect that it's something along the lines of current finding it's way through the relay coil and one or more of the lights in series. Alternately, it could be a partial short somewhere in the trailer.

(relays don't seem to trigger when I plug in, and lights don't light until invoked by the vehicle, but my tiny 7lb battery does drain if left overnight).

Lost the original diagram I made, been meaning to re-draw the diagram, continuity test and otherwise investigate, but haven't found the time since it's easily solved by not plugging in until I leave in the morning.
A diaphragm would be amazing!


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post #110 of 184 (permalink) Old 01-11-2012, 03:46 AM
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Diagram.. Autocorrect


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post #111 of 184 (permalink) Old 01-15-2012, 02:25 AM
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Add one more person to the list when you guys start making these again. I finally got back on the track yesterday after The Great Engine Debacle of 2011 and NASA AZ is running events outside of the Phoenix area so I need something to save my track tires.

2005 Lotus Elise - BOE TVS and a few other mods - RIP
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post #112 of 184 (permalink) Old 04-02-2012, 07:24 AM
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I have ne for sale if anyone is interested.

Sold my car and no longer need it.

2003 911 Turbo X50
2006 Lotus Elise VF2 and Reverie wings, 300hp and 300lbs of DF! Sold!
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post #113 of 184 (permalink) Old 04-02-2012, 07:39 AM
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I have ne for sale if anyone is interested.

Sold my car and no longer need it.
ITS MINE!!!!
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post #114 of 184 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 06:47 PM
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Anyone else have one for sale? I wonder how many orders BOE needs to make a batch?

Steve
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post #115 of 184 (permalink) Old 05-03-2012, 05:10 AM
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Still for sale.
Problem is shipping costs. Ideally would be to ship to Canada.

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post #116 of 184 (permalink) Old 05-03-2012, 05:23 AM
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Still for sale.
Problem is shipping costs. Ideally would be to ship to Canada.
PM sent.

Steve
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post #117 of 184 (permalink) Old 05-16-2012, 05:19 AM
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Anyone figure out the trailer light wiring??

DIY 2007 Exige S K20A2 C38 Rotrex

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post #118 of 184 (permalink) Old 09-16-2012, 08:33 PM
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Is there any chance a similar design could fit the Evora? Could a version with a 1.25 square bracket be made, for carrying bikes?
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post #119 of 184 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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Haven't played with the Evora yet. We're working ont he next batch for the 111 paltform. It will have a small receiver this time around for bike racks and the sort...


Phil: NASA 2012 and 2014 TT1 Central Champion, 2005 GG Elige, Rev400, 485+whp REV X

2011 Pearl White Evora, BOE Skunk Works 6 SPD 435WHP || 2014 Black Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP|| 2011 White Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP || 2006 CO Elise, Rev400, Steet Car

____________________________________________

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BOE ClamHinge | BOE TVS SuperCharging, The Most Powerful Track-Worthy Forced Induction | EFI Engine Management | BOE The Essential Fuel Starve Solution| BOE Lotus Tow Package| BOE New-Tech Lotus Race Engines | The Right Oil Filter for Your Lotus | Custom Lotus ECU Tuning


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post #120 of 184 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 09:32 AM
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Haven't played with the Evora yet. We're working ont he next batch for the 111 paltform. It will have a small receiver this time around for bike racks and the sort...
PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE!!!!!!!!

I NEED TO GET MY BIKE ON MY CAR!

With the Elise being my only car for the time being, I would KILL for a receiver to put my 1upUSA rack into. Even after I get a tow vehicle, for a jaunt to the local trails, I'd prefer to take the Elise over a truck.

Do you have any idea what the deliverable date might be on this?
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