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post #21 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-07-2008, 10:41 AM
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I broke two 10mm "allen key" sockets in two days while torqueing down head bolts on a Nissan... returned them to Sears and got free replacements.

After breaking the 2nd one, I went to Autozone and bought one of theirs... a better design... much stronger and it didn't break.

The gas I burned making two trips to sears cost about as much as the Autozone replacement tool

Steve -- '05 Laser Blue, Biscuit, Sport/Touring, Starshield
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post #22 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-07-2008, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ace10 View Post
agree.
torque wrench, no lifetime warranty
screw extractor, no lifetime warranty
1/2" ratchet, lifetime warranty
+1

In high school I worked in the Craftsman tool dept. I had to constantly remind people that "hand tools" had a lifetime warranty. People would come in with 30 year old drills and I had to try and explain it to them that they were not covered. Anyways, like Ace said, all hand tools have the warranty but power tools and power tool accessories do not. Torque wrench is one of those where it falls into the hand tool category but its still not covered.

Hope that clears it up...
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post #23 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-07-2008, 12:14 PM
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I have a four post lift from DirectLift. It was quite inexpensive. I have a 10 ft. ceiling in my garage, which would allow me to stack two cars if I didn't have to opent the garage door. Once I get the garage door tracks raised and one of those header mounted openers I'll be all set. Even without the ability to stack cars the lift is pretty nice to have around.

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post #24 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-07-2008, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcnohead View Post
+1

In high school I worked in the Craftsman tool dept. I had to constantly remind people that "hand tools" had a lifetime warranty. People would come in with 30 year old drills and I had to try and explain it to them that they were not covered. Anyways, like Ace said, all hand tools have the warranty but power tools and power tool accessories do not. Torque wrench is one of those where it falls into the hand tool category but its still not covered.

Hope that clears it up...
Funny you should mention that. We went through a few Sears torque wrenches over the course of a couple of months when we were working on a '74 MGB in High School. And back then torque wrenches seemed like a lot of money.

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post #25 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-07-2008, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcnohead View Post
+Torque wrench is one of those where it falls into the hand tool category but its still not covered.
It used to be that the torque wrenches were warrantied for life for mechanical problems, but only had a short warranty for accuracy.

I imagine that they got tired of explaining that to people who wanted their wrench replaced because it was out of calibration (didn't crank it down to the minimum settings), so they just eliminated the lifetime warranty on the whole thing.

Some Sears stores will still replace your torque wrench if it mechanically fails after the warranty expires...




Tim Mullen --- There is no such thing as Touring suspension or Touring wheels.

I love being married. It's so great to find that one person that you want to annoy for the rest of your life. - Rita Rudner


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05 Lotus Elise - Chrome Orange - No Touring - No LSS - No Hardtop - Lotus Driving Lights - Lotus "Chin Guards" - plain and simple.
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post #26 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-07-2008, 12:56 PM
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continuing the theme:

i've pimped these guys before, but i can't say enough about the value:
http://www.cditorque.com/main.html

half the price of the professional brands, with the same specs certification as the big $$ snap-ons.

i'm going to invest in a couple more of them when i get serious about getting my car back in shape here shortly.
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post #27 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-07-2008, 09:28 PM
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Yep, CDI makes some of Snap-On's wrenches; they just put on a Snap-On logo collar and put it in a logo case.

Precision Instruments is another good choice, also made in USA. I think they still make some Snap-On product; at one time they were the exclusive supplier of their torque wrenches. Top-notch minus the Snap-On tax.
www.torqwrench.com

BTW, Snap-On threading tools are made by Hanson (now part of Irwin-Hanson); same cutters, handles and cases (blue instead of red), much better prices. However, if you want their adjustable dies, I think they're only available through Snap-On.
www.irwin.com
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post #28 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-07-2008, 10:42 PM
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I just moved from Raleigh about 8 months ago.

I spent almost 6 months trying to find a rentable and large enough garage space.

You have two real choices. For ~400 bucks a month, there are a number of small (900-1200sq ft) industrial park places in Garner, Wake Forest, Holly Springs or Apex. All I ever found were about the same size: 20x40, or thereabouts of usable space. All I found also included electricity, and the few that had it, heat.

For ~1400 a month you can get NICE, HUGE warehouse spaces in Raleigh proper. I'm talking anywhere from 2500-6000 sq feet. Most are now prewired for 220, and are setup for industrial shop moveins. You will have to pay power and everything else in these spots. Much more expensive, unless you go in with a couple of buddies to make it a "community" garage.

The last option, and the one I'd consider if you will be in raleigh for another 5+ years, is to buy an empty plot anywhere in the area that's zoned for it, and build your own 5/6 car garage. All total it'll run you 35-45k, and will be a guaranteed positive return on your investment to rent it out or sell it down the road.
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post #29 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-07-2008, 11:36 PM
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At least some Sears electrical tools used to be guaranteed for life.

We used to have some places that rented out stalls for working on your car.
Anyone want to start a business?

"Everything is more wonderful when you do it with a car, don't you think?"
-girl by the fire, while watching a huge tree rearranged in the bonfire by car bumper and cable


Stop that! You're in direct violation of the laws of physics!
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post #30 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-08-2008, 10:18 AM
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I have been considering a lift for a while, but I can't decide which one I need. I'm finding there are "storage" (drive on) lifts and "working" lifts (that use arms). If you use a working lift to store a car, top one can drip on the lower, and it's slightly more effort to lift and lower each time. If you use a "storage" lift to work on a car, you may take out the drip trays, but you can't really work on the wheels/suspension.

Is there any compromise? Any advice?

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatiexigeowner View Post
Check this out.....

3 w's.....maxxx.to/videos_d_2606_0.html
Very nice indeed.

2005 Chrome Orange Lotus Elise (going)
2004 Charcoal Honda Accord EX-V6 (going)
2005 Klavierlack Black VW Phaeton V8 (gone)
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post #31 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-08-2008, 07:24 PM
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I am in an HOA community with most of the normal restrictions. I have found that after I convinced all three members of the board of directors to buy Ducatis exactly like mine and I'm the only guy who knows how to work on them and has the only 950 SF garage with 220 power, compressor, etc., it seems to work OK.

2006 Elise, Graphite Grey/Red leather, Sport Elise Suspension, Cup airbox, ECU ref lash, MonoBalls, etc. etc.
1992 900SS Ducati Race Spec Built by Ferracci
2006 KTM 950 SuperMoto, a work in progress

Old stuff gone: Ferrari 275GTB/4, '69 1275 Cooper S. '72 500 Fiat, old Jags, etc. Never bought a boring car.
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post #32 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-08-2008, 07:57 PM
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didn't read all the post. if you can, move some place else. i wouldn't trust my lotus being anywhere else but a few feet from my house.. the place i hopefully get before the summer has a 2 car garage. lets just say, underneath it, theres enough room for an elevator and space to fit 20 cars.. yea, if i can i'll try it lol.. that sucks though if your not allowed to build your own garage bigger and such..

steel grey 04' neon srt4 low boost 360hp 400ft lbs.... here for the love of the Elise, Exige and gaining the knowledge before I can get my own...


my car.. https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f152...ny-pics-62883/

https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f152...on-some-70889/
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post #33 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-09-2008, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30mpg View Post
I have been considering a lift for a while, but I can't decide which one I need. I'm finding there are "storage" (drive on) lifts and "working" lifts (that use arms). If you use a working lift to store a car, top one can drip on the lower, and it's slightly more effort to lift and lower each time. If you use a "storage" lift to work on a car, you may take out the drip trays, but you can't really work on the wheels/suspension.

Is there any compromise? Any advice?

Thanks!
I just went through the same thing and bought the four-post storage lift. You can buy jack trays or (even better) sliding jacks to get the wheels off. E-mail me if you have specific questions. Paul @ Parkanzky . Com

Paul Parkanzky
Magnetic Blue with Biscuit Touring, LSS, Starshield
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post #34 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-09-2008, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30mpg View Post
I have been considering a lift for a while, but I can't decide which one I need. I'm finding there are "storage" (drive on) lifts and "working" lifts (that use arms). If you use a working lift to store a car, top one can drip on the lower, and it's slightly more effort to lift and lower each time. If you use a "storage" lift to work on a car, you may take out the drip trays, but you can't really work on the wheels/suspension.
Two post lifts are great for working on cars, but bad for storing them. They would leave the suspension drooped for long periods of time which distorts/twists the rubber in the suspension bushings and causes them to prematurely degrade. Besides, lifting an Elise/Exige on a two poster is not optimal for balancing the car on the lift (think Qball's car).

Four poster "drive on" lifts are better for storing cars as the suspension remains loaded. Most such lifts can be ordered with jack trays that allow jacks to be positioned under the car (on the ramps) to lift the car off the ramps. This option works very well and easily, and allows work on the suspension/brakes of the car quite easily.

A four poster is what I'm getting when I move and get a high enough garage...




Tim Mullen --- There is no such thing as Touring suspension or Touring wheels.

I love being married. It's so great to find that one person that you want to annoy for the rest of your life. - Rita Rudner


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05 Lotus Elise - Chrome Orange - No Touring - No LSS - No Hardtop - Lotus Driving Lights - Lotus "Chin Guards" - plain and simple.
94 Miata R Package - Black
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post #35 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-09-2008, 08:27 AM
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I just got this lift last night.

http://www.elisetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50966

I'll put it together this weekend if I can somehow get all 2400 lbs of it off my trailer.


It has drip trays and it came with two hydralic lifts to raise and lower the car to change tires etc.

Also, remember, with a four post lift, there's no requirement for it to be bolted dowm.

My car both sucks and blows.




Now with added all natural smoky goodness!

Last edited by slaughtr; 04-09-2008 at 08:40 AM.
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post #36 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-10-2008, 06:30 AM
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I also have the ProPark 7LL. I like it a lot.

It's easy to get off the trailer. You unbolt the end-caps they ship it with and take it out piece-by-piece. The heaviest part is the runway with the hydraulic ram in it. I think he told me that piece weighs ~350#.

The cool thing about a 4-post lift for the Elise is that you can drive on, take off the undertrays, then jack the car up from the proper jacking points.

Paul Parkanzky
Magnetic Blue with Biscuit Touring, LSS, Starshield
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post #37 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-10-2008, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMRJock View Post
I also have the ProPark 7LL. I like it a lot.

It's easy to get off the trailer. You unbolt the end-caps they ship it with and take it out piece-by-piece. The heaviest part is the runway with the hydraulic ram in it. I think he told me that piece weighs ~350#.

The cool thing about a 4-post lift for the Elise is that you can drive on, take off the undertrays, then jack the car up from the proper jacking points.
Precisely the reasons I bought it. I can't wait till this weekend.

My car both sucks and blows.




Now with added all natural smoky goodness!
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post #38 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-10-2008, 06:45 AM
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I should clarify my post.

The runway with the ram is the heaviest part of the lift. The hydraulic jacks that ride in-between that you bought as an accessory are probably heavier though. It wouldn't surprise me to find out they weight 500#. The problem is that they hang down from the middle when they're installed, so if you're using it as a parking lift and have limited clearance you won't want it there. Also, when you lower the lift all the way they sit on the floor of the garage, which sort of blows.

I only have one of the jacks (They're pricey, so I thought I'd try one out before I bought two). What I did was buy one of those flat mover's dollies. I store the jack on that. Then if I want to use it I roll it between the rails (sideways), lower the lift to the ground, turn the jack 90-degrees, then lift the lift to pickup the jack. I had originally thought I'd have the jack on the lift all the time, but I much prefer having it rolled out of the way when I am not using it (99.99% of the time).

Paul Parkanzky
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post #39 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-10-2008, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMRJock View Post
I should clarify my post.

The runway with the ram is the heaviest part of the lift. The hydraulic jacks that ride in-between that you bought as an accessory are probably heavier though. It wouldn't surprise me to find out they weight 500#. The problem is that they hang down from the middle when they're installed, so if you're using it as a parking lift and have limited clearance you won't want it there. Also, when you lower the lift all the way they sit on the floor of the garage, which sort of blows.

I only have one of the jacks (They're pricey, so I thought I'd try one out before I bought two). What I did was buy one of those flat mover's dollies. I store the jack on that. Then if I want to use it I roll it between the rails (sideways), lower the lift to the ground, turn the jack 90-degrees, then lift the lift to pickup the jack. I had originally thought I'd have the jack on the lift all the time, but I much prefer having it rolled out of the way when I am not using it (99.99% of the time).
Interesting. I did note that those jacks were heavy. Luckily, I have a dolly, wheel barrow and tractor with a front bucket if need be to move them. My plan was to put them in the middle and park the lotus underneath most of the time. I didn't think about how those jacks might sit on the floor when the whole thing is lowered. I'm assuming there is no problem getting the car on and off over them though?

How was putting the unit together?

My car both sucks and blows.




Now with added all natural smoky goodness!
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post #40 of 43 (permalink) Old 04-10-2008, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slaughtr View Post
Interesting. I did note that those jacks were heavy. Luckily, I have a dolly, wheel barrow and tractor with a front bucket if need be to move them. My plan was to put them in the middle and park the lotus underneath most of the time. I didn't think about how those jacks might sit on the floor when the whole thing is lowered. I'm assuming there is no problem getting the car on and off over them though?

How was putting the unit together?
No problem getting any of the cars I've put on the lift over the jack (Jetta, Miata, e30, Mk1 Rabbit, A4). I've not had the Lotus on the lift yet, just under it. I'm a bit worried about clearance at the ramps. I think it should be fine (I have LSS), but I'm going to have a spotter the first time I try to put the car on there.

I can't believe how easily the lift went together. Three of us did it in a few hours.

Two things:

a) You put the cross-bars on the uprights (This is why it helps to have a few people, because it's handy if somebody can keep those from getting knocked over while you're doing this). What they don't tell you is that you have to put the lock ladder in at some point. We put it in first, then used a piece of rope to pull the safety pulley in each crossbar so that it could be lowered. It would be easier to put the crossbars in, then put in the lock ladder but you either have to tip the assembly over or have really tall ceilings. But don't put the cross bar in all the way at the bottom. You have to get under there to bolt things up and to route the cables. They're very unclear about this in the instructions. We assembled it with the bars at the bottom, then used a hoist and floor jack to raise the lift up enough to get under and hook stuff up. I wasn't super impressed with the instructions, but luckily there's not much to the thing...

b) They powdercoated the studs that you hook the heim joints onto that hold on the unlock rods (You'll see when you're putting it together). You'll need to clean those up or you'll never get the nuts on there.

Paul Parkanzky
Magnetic Blue with Biscuit Touring, LSS, Starshield
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