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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Hi Lotus enthusiasts, Canadian member here hoping to educate myself more about the Elise and take my driving to the next level. Owning an Elise has been a very long time dream of mine. Last summer I became the happy owner of a 60th anniversary edition in yellow. Absolutely loving this car!
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 01:06 AM
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Welcome! Can’t give any new advice just share what I was advised and followed, you are probably already aware. Double check that the recall from 2007 regarding the oil line was addressed, consider changing the original radiator that tends to break down, keep a distance from other cars, and stay out of other drivers’ blind spots. Cheers.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 06:23 AM
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^^ all good advice, along with never, ever parallel park.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice!
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 09:51 AM
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That looks terrific.

Note to new Elise & Exige Owners:

1. These cars have large (i.e. dangerous) blind spots. Multivex mirrors are NLA, but RLS (Really Light Stuff) offers very good tape-on replacements.

2. The horns are way too weak (quiet). There’s an inverse relationship: smaller the car, louder the horn needs to be.

Get something such as a Stebel Nautilus.

Stock: “Excuse me”

Stebel: “HONK! LOOK OUT!”

Remove the stock horn; replace with louder.

(I drive with my finger on the horn button in any traffic. Iffy situations, my headlights are on.

Stay to the left of traffic, i.e. avoid passing on the right if you can.

Stop way behind trucks, SUVs, etc. Some have blindspots >50’. )

3. The early cars came with misaimed and dim headlights. If you drive at night, convert to HIDs. While better than stock halogen bulbs are available, HIDs throw more light. Stay around 5000k.

4. Ensure your car has had the work required by the recall for oil line fittings done. You could lose an engine and/or spin in your own oil.

5. The best transmission lube I’ve found is Redline MT-90 plus a little Power Punch Extreme Gear Oil Additive. (Note that it takes two changes to get rid of the previous lube.)

a) Early cars have wobbly shift towers. Look up Stan’s Mod (bolt and spacer; and

And, use:
Re-Enforcer long thru bolts that terminate under car and tie down the tower:

These (lube, mods) make a huge change in shifting.

6. As per some engine builders on these sites, wait AT LEAST 20 minutes after coolant has reached full operating temp before engaging cam switchover.

For street cars, consider removing one or both oil coolers. Some cover them.

7. Rear toe-links can loosen and break with disastrous results. You can check tq periodically, or use Nordlock washers. Best is conversion to better engineered brace, such as BOE’s InoKinetic’s for two examples.

8. While under the car with panel off, look around for hoses and wires chafing their way to failure. That’s how this was found:

9. The stock radiators are prone to leaking where the end caps meet the metal part. Keep an eye on this. Most of us use single-pass all-aluminum radiators.

10. When your wheel well liner comes loose, skip the lame plastic rivet and use Well-Nuts instead.

11. Life will be better if you disable the auto-arming alarm function on the earlier cars. You won’t have to press a button to start the car. Instructions:

12. These cars cannot be left off a Battery Tender for weeks at a time. Unless dead batteries are a particular joy of yours. Buy one right away. There are numerous threads here about which ppl use and like.

13, Some on this site are a bit obsessed with hockey pucks for lifting the car. Don’t use these. Too hard and slippery, generally, and too small a surface area. Use a piece of wood, as your hero does.

14. Visit the Uber Thread

15. Most parts on the car are made by Toyota and others, so buying things like a/c compressors, engine parts, etc. is wildly expensive when purchased thru Lotus.
Toyota dealers, auto parts stores are way less expensive.

16. The soft high-grip tires on most of our cars lose much of that grip when temperatures drop below 50 F. I know of too many ppl who spun their cars when not remembering this. I use hi-performance all-seasons.

Note that many summer tires cannot even be stored in temps below 20 F.


Plus, “How to bleed brakes”:

How to Search:

For future reference: Don't use the search on this site. Simply use Google and end the search text with "". E.g.
Transmission Fluid change what bolt no space betw

05 elise (BOE Rev300 supercharged, SSRs, shift tower mods, Multivex; HID hi/low beams); 05 Corolla XRS. Past '72 Elan Sprint (I restored), Lotus 7 w/X-flow, TT Supra, Bugeye Sprite, BMW 2002 & 2002tii, '65 GTO.

Driving Tips-
Moss Emergency Line-
Bleeding Brakes-
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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Wow, absolutely amazed by your post. Thanks so much for taking the time to go into so much detail. This has gotta be the holy grail of best advice.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 02:39 PM
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Location: Calipornia
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** save ~10 lbs gain 1 hp ** EQ: Y=(190*X) / (1984-X) where Y is (HP) and X is (lbs)

'07 Lotus Exige S310

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