CV Boot leaking - Page 2 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #21 of 52 (permalink) Old 11-24-2011, 03:18 PM
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Nicely done! (Maybe you should make up some to sell ...)

Thanks,

Joe
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post #22 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-01-2012, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by thebuzzard View Post
Thanks for the responses! I am going to get a heat shield made up and replace the grease and see how that holds up. For the record, here are a couple of pics: just how much grease came out and the rather stressed boot (gaiter).
I have this same cv boot vacuum issue after this weekend track event. I will try the sheild or wrap my headers.


Any one recommend a good large CV boot clamp source and size?

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post #23 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-01-2012, 04:28 PM
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Consider removing the OE, road-going, grease for some proper high-performance grease like that offered by redline... It deals with heat and friction much better than the stock stuff, FWIW... In addition, the last joints we repacked had never leaked but had very little grease from Lotus. So better grease and more of it should help with these spindly parts holding up

Red Line Synthetic Oil - Grease and Assembly Lube - CV-2 Grease


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post #24 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-01-2012, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by turbophil View Post
Consider removing the OE, road-going, grease for some proper high-performance grease like that offered by redline... It deals with heat and friction much better than the stock stuff, FWIW... In addition, the last joints we repacked had never leaked but had very little grease from Lotus. So better grease and more of it should help with these spindly parts holding up

Red Line Synthetic Oil - Grease and Assembly Lube - CV-2 Grease
Thanks Phil! I will give this a try. Oh by the way no one was faster then me at Grattan this weekend in the fastest group, to the point I was also lapping people. Again thanks Phil

Current 2007 Exige S TOURING PACK, TRACK PACK, LSD, Aspen White, BOE Torque300, Tank,2bular muffler, Larini header/Decat, RLS Intercooler, Intercooler Vent Ducts/tubes PENSKE SINGLE-ADJUSTABLE SHOCKS, CUPdiscs-Front ULTRAdisc rear, Lotus AP 4 Pot Calipers, Fidanza lightweight flywheel, ACT HDSS Clutch......way too much to list..

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post #25 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-02-2012, 06:20 AM
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Most excellent!


Phil: NASA 2012 and 2014 TT1 Central Champion, 2005 GG Elige, Rev400, 485+whp REV X

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post #26 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-11-2014, 04:11 PM
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Another CV boot leaker this weekend at Mid Ohio. Sprayed black greasy goo all over the place. Not the way I wanted to end the weekend!

Fun part of all this is that I get back in town May 28th and need to have the car ready for Mid-Ohio again on June 7-8 for NASA. I really do not want to pull the CV joint shaft out of the transaxle just to avoid damaging the seal and having another problem on my hands while I'm on track.

Has anyone ever tried using this style of metal band clamp? You need a special tool in order to tighten it correctly, but it sure would make the job go a lot faster and without risking knicking the shaft seal. With an Oetiker clamp I absolutely am required to remove the shaft. With these they are almost like metal zip ties.

NAPA AUTO PARTS

The idea I have is the following:
  • remove OEM clamp on inner CV boot
  • Scoot boot of sealing surface
  • repack grease
  • clean up sealing surfaces
  • use band clamp and special tool to secure boot

Am I missing anything here?
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post #27 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-11-2014, 06:13 PM
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Well scratch that idea, the boot had a tiny cut right at the corner of one of the folds. Really hard to see. Grease marks all in the engine bay lined up right with the hole. Looks like I need to take the axle out
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post #28 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 09:15 AM
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I tried that clamp (twice) at the track. It was better than nothing, but I would rrecommend it only for a way to drive home from an event.
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post #29 of 52 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 10:05 AM
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Hot tip for CV boots

"Hot tip"

So here's a trick I learned from a sage 'ol ALMS race veteran. I've done it, had customers that have done it--- It works!

Plastic Reynolds Wrap.

Keep heavy duty plastic wrap (the kind for food and tuperware) in your toolbox. In the event your CV boot or clamp fails, wrap it with plastic wrap. Zip tie the ends and finish the race/day/etc. It doesn't a perfect job. I've seen some guys use it as preventative maintenance. I'm too vain about my engine bay to do that, but if I were doing endurance races, I'd certainly consider it...

Another tip about grease.

Krytox GPL215. It's the grease of all greases. Used by many (maybe most?) professional teams in their CVs. You'd think it's laced with platinum based on the price, but it will reduce temperature and improve CV performance over anything else... When repacking the CVs, do NOT apply grease to the boot. Keep the grease where the grease is needed--> in the joint.

Link: http://www.krytox-distribution.us/pr...fxioogodttaa6a


-Phil


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post #30 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-26-2014, 02:23 PM
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Replaced the boot and after two track weekends the inner passenger side CV boot is still seeping a little bit. That small amount is enough to spray all over the place and still make a mess. I am also running a PPE catless header. It has ceramic coating too. At this point I think the heat is making the grease expand past the clamp.

I am going to make a heat shield like TheBuzzard did. This has got to be the only way.
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post #31 of 52 (permalink) Old 07-27-2014, 10:59 AM
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Make extras?

I'd be interested in buying one -- maybe others would be too.

Thanks,

Joe
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post #32 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-04-2014, 05:09 PM
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My Solution

Here's my Home Depot solution. This was a surprisingly painless and cheap project. There is a stud in place on the engine block and a M10 bolt hole for the exhaust support bracket ready to use as a mounting surface. Painless!

You can get a square 24" x 36" sheet of aluminum or steel from Home Depot or Lowes real cheap. Beyond that, I had some spare adhesive backed heat shielding material left over in my workshop to apply to the metal. The only specialty tools I used were a 2" cutoff wheel on my pneumatic die grinder to cut the metal and a vise. Not big whoop.

Mid-Ohio is in two weeks so we'll see if this is the final fix. I'm very confident the heat from my PPE header was heating the axle grease and pushing it past the clamp. You can see the speckles on my exhaust where the grease burned off. I am so tired of cleaning up this mess!

BTW, after 7 track days this year the ceramic coating that came on my PPE headers is already flaking off with the slightest touch exposing bare metal. Not impressed at all with that. My father has a 700hp Dodge Dart with ceramic coated headers that have never had an issue. Kind of BS that the coating can't hold up on the naturally aspirated 2ZZ-GE

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post #33 of 52 (permalink) Old 10-10-2014, 04:11 PM
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Just repacked my RH cv boots again, but this time with Redline CV-2 grease. First impression after getting this stuff on my hands is HOLY COW IT IS THICK! Much more viscous than the standard auto parts store axle grease. I have a feeling this is going to seep much less already in heavy track use.

Now to get that bee-otch LH axle out
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post #34 of 52 (permalink) Old 10-10-2014, 06:52 PM
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Take that and multiply by 10 for both cost and effectiveness and you'll have krytox. In fact, if you get krytox on your skin, you just received a grease tattoo!

That said, the redline product does a very good job...

Phil


Phil: NASA 2012 and 2014 TT1 Central Champion, 2005 GG Elige, Rev400, 485+whp REV X

2011 Pearl White Evora, BOE Skunk Works 6 SPD 435WHP || 2014 Black Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP|| 2011 White Evora Skunk Works IPS 390WHP || 2006 CO Elise, Rev400, Steet Car

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post #35 of 52 (permalink) Old 10-11-2014, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbophil View Post
"Hot tip"

Another tip about grease.

Krytox GPL215. It's the grease of all greases. Used by many (maybe most?) professional teams in their CVs. You'd think it's laced with platinum based on the price,
Link: Krytox GPL 215 Grease, .8 kg. cartridge


-Phil
Ouch!! That Krytox better lube and serenade the driver at that price. That said, it's cheaper than a catastrophic failure, I suppose.

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post #36 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-03-2014, 10:08 PM
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I'm having the same issues with both my cv boot and the PPE header.
Time to build a heat sheild!
I'm thinking about just wrapping the header tubes in exhaust wrap, I've been meaning to get around to that eventually. It should be sufficient to eliminate the CV problems.

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post #37 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 07:33 AM
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I'm thinking about just wrapping the header tubes in exhaust wrap, I've been meaning to get around to that eventually. It should be sufficient to eliminate the CV problems.
Rather than wrapping the tubes, I used sleeves. That has worked so far -- knock on wood. Believe it was a DEI kit purchased from Summit Racing.

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post #38 of 52 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 08:38 AM
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re: CV grease and problems

I have a non-standard axles. They are from Driveshaftshop. Also I run a Honda motor and Corvette outer axles. The CV joints are bigger/stronger. The angle on the axles is worse. CV's would heat-up more....

I used to cut the boot on some metalwork. Finally got it sorted out. No problems so far.

Driveshaftshop has 'Road Racing' boots with vents. The recommend and ship Neo2 grease. (Must be in my CV's, since I used whatever they sent me to re-pack and replace torn boots).

Grease has more magic than engine oils. Its applications are more specialized...

The Krytox stuff must be made from Gold or Platinum... and I though SRF was $$$!

Just adding some info. i.e. what Driveshaftshop told me.

Anton
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post #39 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-30-2017, 04:28 AM
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Originally Posted by countryboyshane View Post
Here's my Home Depot solution. This was a surprisingly painless and cheap project. There is a stud in place on the engine block and a M10 bolt hole for the exhaust support bracket ready to use as a mounting surface. Painless!

You can get a square 24" x 36" sheet of aluminum or steel from Home Depot or Lowes real cheap. Beyond that, I had some spare adhesive backed heat shielding material left over in my workshop to apply to the metal. The only specialty tools I used were a 2" cutoff wheel on my pneumatic die grinder to cut the metal and a vise. Not big whoop.




Digging up an old thread because this just happened to me on track a couple weekends ago. Interestingly, it looks like I'm the only one with OEM exhaust that this has happened to. Made a god awful mess - it looks like every bit of grease came out and is spattered in the engine bay. Best I can tell my boot is intact, but it also didn't look 'sucked in' like some had mentioned.

I'd like to try to refill it with CV2 grease without pulling the whole axel and replacing the boot. Any advice on this? I'm going to get a grease gun with a needle fitting and cut one of the bands off, slip it in (hehe), inject and re-clamp if I can even do that with it on the car. Is that feasible?

Would love to see some more pictures of heat shields people made. Since my stock exhaust is on, those studs others described using are occupied by the exhaust bracket.
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post #40 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-30-2017, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by RideMooch View Post
Digging up an old thread because this just happened to me on track a couple weekends ago. Interestingly, it looks like I'm the only one with OEM exhaust that this has happened to. Made a god awful mess - it looks like every bit of grease came out and is spattered in the engine bay. Best I can tell my boot is intact, but it also didn't look 'sucked in' like some had mentioned.

I'd like to try to refill it with CV2 grease without pulling the whole axel and replacing the boot. Any advice on this? I'm going to get a grease gun with a needle fitting and cut one of the bands off, slip it in (hehe), inject and re-clamp if I can even do that with it on the car. Is that feasible?

Would love to see some more pictures of heat shields people made. Since my stock exhaust is on, those studs others described using are occupied by the exhaust bracket.
If I were you, I'd replace the entire boot with one of BOE's "tuff boots" and fill it with Redline CV2 grease. The OEM boot is eventually going to crack. They are so thin compared to the tuff boots! I've been running these tuff boots with CV2 grease for three years now, with my heat shield, and no more seepage. Like you, my Elise is a track toy and is at track 6-8 weekends every year. Very comforting not having to worry about huge messes anymore.

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