Dallas Reedís >700whp turbocharged k20 Elise - Page 4 - LotusTalk - The Lotus Cars Community
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post #61 of 94 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Lotus F1 View Post
You need a wide body kit
Maybe
I'm more concerned with going fast than style points for now.
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2005 Lotus Elise turbo k20a2 757whp 536wtq 31psi [email protected]
2005 Lotus Elise 2zz supercharged 'streetable' race car
2007 Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder
2010 Ford F350
2004 Mazda RX8
2007 Mazda Mazdaspeed 3
2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid
I passed my license test in a 3cyl 70hp Geo Metro
I learned to drive a manual on a Lotus Elise
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post #62 of 94 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by dallasreed View Post
Maybe
I'm more concerned with going fast than style points for now.

Nothing some bolt on fender flares can't fix as a temp solution.
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post #63 of 94 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
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Maybe
I'm more concerned with going fast than style points for now.
Better Aero means less drag...you have some speed going on and drag starts to matter
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post #64 of 94 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Better Aero means less drag...you have some speed going on and drag starts to matter
True, however power will overcome drag and the car has more than enough of that, so much that I will likely need to dial it back for competitive racing with turns.

I plan on putting a more aggressive wing and splitter similar to my black car which will increase drag even more. To be fair I don't care that much about the straight line stuff as I am not planning on actually competitive drag racing. I will just do that for fun a couple times a year and take the wing off for that. The majority of the competitive racing I will do will be 30-70mph and at those speeds flares are more of a style thing than functional. Especially considering the cost/return.

Doesn't mean I won't do flares or something eventually. I may have to cut the fenders and adjust ride height some more yet so I'd just as soon wait for that situation to get in a state of finality before I invest in body work.

2005 Lotus Elise turbo k20a2 757whp 536wtq 31psi [email protected]
2005 Lotus Elise 2zz supercharged 'streetable' race car
2007 Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder
2010 Ford F350
2004 Mazda RX8
2007 Mazda Mazdaspeed 3
2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid
I passed my license test in a 3cyl 70hp Geo Metro
I learned to drive a manual on a Lotus Elise
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post #65 of 94 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 06:09 AM
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Hi Dallas, you might want to go double shear on those toe links if you decide to take it to the track with those wide/sticky tires!
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post #66 of 94 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Dallas, you might want to go double shear on those toe links if you decide to take it to the track with those wide/sticky tires!
Has anyone had any issues with the BOElink-NAS? I have them on my other car and they are pretty beefy. The upright end is double shear while the frame end is stronger and larger hardware and the hole has to be drilled out larger to fit the bolt.

2005 Lotus Elise turbo k20a2 757whp 536wtq 31psi [email protected]
2005 Lotus Elise 2zz supercharged 'streetable' race car
2007 Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder
2010 Ford F350
2004 Mazda RX8
2007 Mazda Mazdaspeed 3
2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid
I passed my license test in a 3cyl 70hp Geo Metro
I learned to drive a manual on a Lotus Elise
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post #67 of 94 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 07:50 AM
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re: Widebody

My rear clam will accommodate 335's. I am going to that size this year...

Is the Quaife holding up? I see you snapped a drive-shaft, already. I had that privilege, also.

Anton


Quote:
Originally Posted by dallasreed View Post
Maybe
I'm more concerned with going fast than style points for now.
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post #68 of 94 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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Think the quaife is still OK so far. At one point I thought it was not wanting to go into 4th but I think it was technique issues.

I don't know if there is an issue with reverse or if it is normal but it is tricky to get it to engage. From standstill it is cake to get into first, just clutch in and pull. For reverse, from neutral if you clutch in, pull up the collar, and push it rarely goes in. I've tried pumping the clutch also and with the clutch all the way in it rarely engages. Seems like you have to have the clutch partially slipping then push and lift the clutch just so and it will go but sometimes there is grindage with that method. It is entirely possible I don't know the trick to reverse or something isn't adjusted right.

I may open it up and have a look at some point in the next few weeks as I have not yet inspected it since acquiring. I will say it is not the most street friendly setup as you have to keep your head in the game and for the streetability I would prefer the e153 but it is workable. I haven't had to manage a traffic jam yet either. I wonder what will break if it is not the axles. I think the studs may be the next weak point or maybe something in the trans.

2005 Lotus Elise turbo k20a2 757whp 536wtq 31psi [email protected]
2005 Lotus Elise 2zz supercharged 'streetable' race car
2007 Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder
2010 Ford F350
2004 Mazda RX8
2007 Mazda Mazdaspeed 3
2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid
I passed my license test in a 3cyl 70hp Geo Metro
I learned to drive a manual on a Lotus Elise
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post #69 of 94 (permalink) Old 04-19-2016, 10:21 PM
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re: Quaife

I find the reverse tricky to engage, also. I have the blocker removed, so I do not have to pull-up on the collar... It seems to get better as my car gets warm. I attribute it to sticky C-C clutch when cold. Remember, it is the original Honda reverse gear with an idler and no synchros. So pushing the clutch, shifting into first and then reverse will synch it, similar to your slipping clutch technique.

I have a Geartronics kit. I do not have to clutch, once I get going. It seems to work well in race conditions and when I am getting off the track. I think, that it would make a great street set-up. You need to work the engine cut and blip set-up. Also, if you get stuck in too high a gear and need to downshift, you have to use the clutch i.e. the blipper think the revs are too low to blip.

Anton


Quote:
Originally Posted by dallasreed View Post
Think the quaife is still OK so far. At one point I thought it was not wanting to go into 4th but I think it was technique issues.

I don't know if there is an issue with reverse or if it is normal but it is tricky to get it to engage. From standstill it is cake to get into first, just clutch in and pull. For reverse, from neutral if you clutch in, pull up the collar, and push it rarely goes in. I've tried pumping the clutch also and with the clutch all the way in it rarely engages. Seems like you have to have the clutch partially slipping then push and lift the clutch just so and it will go but sometimes there is grindage with that method. It is entirely possible I don't know the trick to reverse or something isn't adjusted right.

I may open it up and have a look at some point in the next few weeks as I have not yet inspected it since acquiring. I will say it is not the most street friendly setup as you have to keep your head in the game and for the streetability I would prefer the e153 but it is workable. I haven't had to manage a traffic jam yet either. I wonder what will break if it is not the axles. I think the studs may be the next weak point or maybe something in the trans.
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post #70 of 94 (permalink) Old 04-20-2016, 08:11 AM
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The reverse is the same in the case of the quaife or the stock box. The reverse idler arm is fairly high leverage making it a bit difficult. Additionally, the reverse is straight cut with the tops of the teeth on the idler rounded to help guide it in. It could work better. Typically de-clutching or slightly letting the clutch out to help move it and keep it from blocking on the 1-2 slider it engages will help.

The Quaife sequential is worse since it seems to take a bit more throw than the cable has to get reverse. Typically, I hold the lever forward when I engage reverse and once it is engaged the lever can be released.


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post #71 of 94 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 09:13 PM
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Amazing car build and very cool you are pushing it with the wide wheels. Any new updates?
I did a similar setup with about 1000hp in my NSX with a PPG synchro gear box but in the middle of switching it to the quaife I have now.
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post #72 of 94 (permalink) Old 08-03-2016, 10:01 PM
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These are awesome photographs and videos!

I hope your future Lotus mods turn out great!

Lar
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post #73 of 94 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 03:59 AM Thread Starter
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Currently it is having a dial put in so the boost can be dialed from 10psi ~400whp and 31psi ~750whp. I have a geartronics gear controller I will be installing. I also have a big wing and splitter for events with turns which will be made removable for straight line events.

2005 Lotus Elise turbo k20a2 757whp 536wtq 31psi [email protected]
2005 Lotus Elise 2zz supercharged 'streetable' race car
2007 Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder
2010 Ford F350
2004 Mazda RX8
2007 Mazda Mazdaspeed 3
2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid
I passed my license test in a 3cyl 70hp Geo Metro
I learned to drive a manual on a Lotus Elise
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post #74 of 94 (permalink) Old 12-01-2016, 06:09 AM Thread Starter
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2005 Lotus Elise turbo k20a2 757whp 536wtq 31psi [email protected]
2005 Lotus Elise 2zz supercharged 'streetable' race car
2007 Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder
2010 Ford F350
2004 Mazda RX8
2007 Mazda Mazdaspeed 3
2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid
I passed my license test in a 3cyl 70hp Geo Metro
I learned to drive a manual on a Lotus Elise
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post #75 of 94 (permalink) Old 12-01-2016, 06:32 AM
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Those tires... How does it turn at low speed?
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post #76 of 94 (permalink) Old 12-01-2016, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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Quickly

Its actually not that bad.

Sent from my LG-VS985 using Tapatalk

2005 Lotus Elise turbo k20a2 757whp 536wtq 31psi [email protected]
2005 Lotus Elise 2zz supercharged 'streetable' race car
2007 Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder
2010 Ford F350
2004 Mazda RX8
2007 Mazda Mazdaspeed 3
2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid
I passed my license test in a 3cyl 70hp Geo Metro
I learned to drive a manual on a Lotus Elise
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post #77 of 94 (permalink) Old 12-01-2016, 07:07 AM
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Quickly

Its actually not that bad.

Sent from my LG-VS985 using Tapatalk

I would think the wide tires would make it terrible. I love them though. Looking crazy in a good way.
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post #78 of 94 (permalink) Old 12-01-2016, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I would think the wide tires would make it terrible. I love them though. Looking crazy in a good way.
I think it looks like someone made a caricature of an elise, then made a car of it.

2005 Lotus Elise turbo k20a2 757whp 536wtq 31psi [email protected]
2005 Lotus Elise 2zz supercharged 'streetable' race car
2007 Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder
2010 Ford F350
2004 Mazda RX8
2007 Mazda Mazdaspeed 3
2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid
I passed my license test in a 3cyl 70hp Geo Metro
I learned to drive a manual on a Lotus Elise
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post #79 of 94 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Some new developments.
Geartronics GCU, autoblip downshifts and no lift upshifts
racey splitter
custom oil cooler
catch can
lots of gauges
tuned for four boost settings, flex fuel with a low setting of ~485whp on gate pressure 13psi, and a high setting of ~733whp on 31psi dynojet

TX2K next week
shake down with autocross and road course not far down the pipe





shay2nak and darkSol like this.

2005 Lotus Elise turbo k20a2 757whp 536wtq 31psi [email protected]
2005 Lotus Elise 2zz supercharged 'streetable' race car
2007 Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder
2010 Ford F350
2004 Mazda RX8
2007 Mazda Mazdaspeed 3
2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid
I passed my license test in a 3cyl 70hp Geo Metro
I learned to drive a manual on a Lotus Elise
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post #80 of 94 (permalink) Old 03-11-2017, 07:37 PM
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Pretty cool. What was you best time with the manual Honda gearbox? 9:54? I'm thinking of doing a build soon on a unique car and I never ever thought a manual lotus could break 10s


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